5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
08-13-2012, 07:07 PM
It is one of 2 things - the gauge in the dash or the sender unit in the gas tank. Run the instrument cluster self diagnostic. If the dash gauge works OK in the test, then the gas tank sender unit is bad.
08-14-2012, 02:31 AM
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so im pulling up to a friends house and i smell cooliant. i popped the hood and had cooliant ovr the front of the motor. so i let it cool. filled it up with water and was on my way bk hme to park it. just as im getting on the freeway the temp gauge starts climbing. well soon enough im pulling off to the side with no power steering or brakes. i tryd to restart it but its only turning the pulley's and not starting. ne idea's???? when i pulld it ovr and popd the hood it seemed like black smoke came rite above the side of the motor with the pulleys and serp. belt. i thought my motor was fried. but thn whn u go to start it the starter is moving the flywheel but its not kicking ovr. im puzzled please help!!
08-15-2012, 10:31 AM
08-15-2012, 10:50 AM
so im pulling up to a friends house and i smell cooliant. i popped the hood and had cooliant ovr the front of the motor. so i let it cool. filled it up with water and was on my way bk hme to park it. just as im getting on the freeway the temp gauge starts climbing. well soon enough im pulling off to the side with no power steering or brakes. i tryd to restart it but its only turning the pulley's and not starting. ne idea's???? when i pulld it ovr and popd the hood it seemed like black smoke came rite above the side of the motor with the pulleys and serp. belt. i thought my motor was fried. but thn whn u go to start it the starter is moving the flywheel but its not kicking ovr. im puzzled please help!!
Temperature climbing means bad business. First off your radiator oozed on your engine cover, continuing to drive it, it continued to ooz out. No coolant=overheat=kaboom 
Your belts 'might' have gone bad from the ooz.
08-15-2012, 03:00 PM
Here is a thread with some photos:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ding-unit.html
08-15-2012, 09:32 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 21
I have an '02 Max and I need to go get an emissions check but I've got to get rid of this SES light first. The code I'm getting is p0455. I've taken the vapor canister out and looked for cracks/pressure tested it and there aren't any leaks in it. I took the valve off of it and connected it to a 12v power supply and it too is fine. p0455 is a "gross leak" and the only thing I can narrow it down is the top of my filler neck. It's pretty well rusted. Instead of replacing the whole neck. I want to spray some rust reformer on it, build the lip back up with JB weld or an equivalent, and replace the gas cap. I'm for someone to provide me with a small bit of information so I can do this. I need to know how tall the lip is that the gasket in your gas cap seals against is (roughly).
Also, I assume this isn't the original gas cap as it doesn't have a little plastic lanyard that it hangs from. Could it not being the original gas cap also give me problems? If so, which would be the best cap to get?
Also, I assume this isn't the original gas cap as it doesn't have a little plastic lanyard that it hangs from. Could it not being the original gas cap also give me problems? If so, which would be the best cap to get?
08-16-2012, 04:50 AM
I'm somewhat certain gas caps are universal.
And if not, I got one from a dealer for about $12.
Seems like a lot of work to rebuild the neck. Considering it's touching gasoline which is corrosive, I personally would replace with new. Who knows how it will interact with rust reformer and JP Weld.
And if not, I got one from a dealer for about $12.
Seems like a lot of work to rebuild the neck. Considering it's touching gasoline which is corrosive, I personally would replace with new. Who knows how it will interact with rust reformer and JP Weld.
08-16-2012, 10:32 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 21
I went ahead and bought a Stant Cap last night just in case. It may sound like a lot of work, but it's really not as bad as it might have been made out to be. There's probably 3/4" run where the lip is maybe an 1/8" lower than the rest of it. Other than that it's not so horrible, just some pitting. JB Weld shouldn't have any issues with gasoline. I'm having it smoke tested Tuesday just to be sure that it's not just the Filler Neck that's giving me problems.
08-17-2012, 08:39 AM
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Posts: 4
Hi! I was about to gut my front precat but the mechanic guy say its was ok no need to gut dem what you guy think I upload two vid of the front one and firewall side thank!
Front precat:http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...3/abdc56c8.mp4
Firewall precat:http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...3/825b1506.mp4
Front precat:http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...3/abdc56c8.mp4
Firewall precat:http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...3/825b1506.mp4
08-17-2012, 08:54 AM
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Posts: 4
Strong rotten egg smell the mechanic guy say its was my precat we check the main one and the inlet honeycomb mesh was half Ripped but he say we can see the light spot inside so it's good 
the car run pretty good just a p1147 that come and go I didn't take a pic of the main cat but if the honeycomb don't stand where is suppose to be that mean its not good anymore? And it make some rattle
the car run pretty good just a p1147 that come and go I didn't take a pic of the main cat but if the honeycomb don't stand where is suppose to be that mean its not good anymore? And it make some rattle
08-17-2012, 09:02 AM
That code is for a sensor, not the precat.
If the precat is shot, replace it. It's a $200 aftermarket part. I'm assuming you have an 00-01 Cali spec?
Also, please start proofreading and using proper punctuation. It's very difficult to read what you're saying. Help us help you.
If the precat is shot, replace it. It's a $200 aftermarket part. I'm assuming you have an 00-01 Cali spec?
Also, please start proofreading and using proper punctuation. It's very difficult to read what you're saying. Help us help you.
08-17-2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
That code is for a sensor, not the precat.
If the precat is shot, replace it. It's a $200 aftermarket part. I'm assuming you have an 00-01 Cali spec?
Also, please start proofreading and using proper punctuation. It's very difficult to read what you're saying. Help us help you.
If the precat is shot, replace it. It's a $200 aftermarket part. I'm assuming you have an 00-01 Cali spec?
Also, please start proofreading and using proper punctuation. It's very difficult to read what you're saying. Help us help you.
08-20-2012, 09:33 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
super issue need help
Ok so i just got finished changing the rad supprt on my 00 maxima and the car started actting up. It started out sounding like the cat was clogged but after running a pressure test there was no pressure in the cat so its obviously not clogged. The next idea were working is a problem with the fuel pump/system. It throws a p0174 code every now and then but it also "goes away" without resetting and clearing the code. Any ideas wwould be great?
08-20-2012, 02:35 PM
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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My 02 Max with 110k miles is doing the timing chain rattle occasionally at start up for one or two seconds. Also the oil light flashes for a second then goes off. No other occurrence or either problem after start up. Oil level is good, just changed two weeks ago. What would you do for this? Safe to Ignore?
08-21-2012, 11:39 AM
My 02 Max with 110k miles is doing the timing chain rattle occasionally at start up for one or two seconds. Also the oil light flashes for a second then goes off. No other occurrence or either problem after start up. Oil level is good, just changed two weeks ago. What would you do for this? Safe to Ignore?
Timing chain rattle is probably worn guides & tensioners.
08-21-2012, 12:53 PM
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AT Check light
I just bought an 03 maxima SE (59k miles) a few days ago, but now I'm getting AT Check light blinking for about 8 seconds. The manuel says if the blinks for 8 seconds I need to take it to the dealer and have them check and repair it. Anyone have any experience with this? The car runs and shifts with no trouble and the fluid is fine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
08-21-2012, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lagos, Nigeria
Posts: 864
I just bought an 03 maxima SE (59k miles) a few days ago, but now I'm getting AT Check light blinking for about 8 seconds. The manuel says if the blinks for 8 seconds I need to take it to the dealer and have them check and repair it. Anyone have any experience with this? The car runs and shifts with no trouble and the fluid is fine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
08-22-2012, 11:33 PM
I just bought an 03 maxima SE (59k miles) a few days ago, but now I'm getting AT Check light blinking for about 8 seconds. The manuel says if the blinks for 8 seconds I need to take it to the dealer and have them check and repair it. Anyone have any experience with this? The car runs and shifts with no trouble and the fluid is fine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
08-25-2012, 10:11 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 159
Hey guys, 2 questions.
First, I've just recently bought a 2000 SE 5speed manual with 152k on it, love the car. Problem is that for the first couple minutes that I drive it, it's jerky as all hell, mostly in 2nd gear. If I'm slowing down(not necessarily braking), the car will jerk back and forth pretty noticeably at low speeds. This effect clears itself up after driving the car for about 3 or 4 minutes and then it feels great. I'm wondering, is this just some parts of the car warming up or something? Because it only happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours at least. I also recently installed an Injen CAI (not the greatest type, I know, but I only learned this after purchase) and I had to replace the MAF during this process. Could this be related to the issue?
Secondly, my mechanic is offering to sell me a very nice used magnaflow muffler and tips for 100$ and it seems to be in pretty good condition. Only issue is that my stock muffler has an offset on the inlet pipe, and this magnaflow's inlet is centered, so some minor pipe bending will need to be done to install it. Should I avoid this, will it cause any issues, or should I go ahead with the deal because I think it'd look and sound great with the CAI.
Thanks!
First, I've just recently bought a 2000 SE 5speed manual with 152k on it, love the car. Problem is that for the first couple minutes that I drive it, it's jerky as all hell, mostly in 2nd gear. If I'm slowing down(not necessarily braking), the car will jerk back and forth pretty noticeably at low speeds. This effect clears itself up after driving the car for about 3 or 4 minutes and then it feels great. I'm wondering, is this just some parts of the car warming up or something? Because it only happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours at least. I also recently installed an Injen CAI (not the greatest type, I know, but I only learned this after purchase) and I had to replace the MAF during this process. Could this be related to the issue?
Secondly, my mechanic is offering to sell me a very nice used magnaflow muffler and tips for 100$ and it seems to be in pretty good condition. Only issue is that my stock muffler has an offset on the inlet pipe, and this magnaflow's inlet is centered, so some minor pipe bending will need to be done to install it. Should I avoid this, will it cause any issues, or should I go ahead with the deal because I think it'd look and sound great with the CAI.
Thanks!
08-26-2012, 08:24 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Florida
Posts: 39
New to forum
What up. Just bought a SE Maxima 02 6spd 3.5 49k miles. This is my second I had 91 SE 5spd years ago. I've built alot of old school Domestic stuff, getting back into imports with this 5th gen. As of now I need to find some fog lights(mine are missing), and then going to start with basic performance mods. I'm seeing that there are alot of things I'm not familiar with, but hopefully I can learn here. Car just threw a check engine light last night as well, so Autozone trip tomorrow.
08-29-2012, 05:03 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 159
Hey guys, 2 questions.
First, I've just recently bought a 2000 SE 5speed manual with 152k on it, love the car. Problem is that for the first couple minutes that I drive it, it's jerky as all hell, mostly in 2nd gear. If I'm slowing down(not necessarily braking), the car will jerk back and forth pretty noticeably at low speeds. This effect clears itself up after driving the car for about 3 or 4 minutes and then it feels great. I'm wondering, is this just some parts of the car warming up or something? Because it only happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours at least. I also recently installed an Injen CAI (not the greatest type, I know, but I only learned this after purchase) and I had to replace the MAF during this process. Could this be related to the issue?
Secondly, my mechanic is offering to sell me a very nice used magnaflow muffler and tips for 100$ and it seems to be in pretty good condition. Only issue is that my stock muffler has an offset on the inlet pipe, and this magnaflow's inlet is centered, so some minor pipe bending will need to be done to install it. Should I avoid this, will it cause any issues, or should I go ahead with the deal because I think it'd look and sound great with the CAI.
Thanks!
First, I've just recently bought a 2000 SE 5speed manual with 152k on it, love the car. Problem is that for the first couple minutes that I drive it, it's jerky as all hell, mostly in 2nd gear. If I'm slowing down(not necessarily braking), the car will jerk back and forth pretty noticeably at low speeds. This effect clears itself up after driving the car for about 3 or 4 minutes and then it feels great. I'm wondering, is this just some parts of the car warming up or something? Because it only happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours at least. I also recently installed an Injen CAI (not the greatest type, I know, but I only learned this after purchase) and I had to replace the MAF during this process. Could this be related to the issue?
Secondly, my mechanic is offering to sell me a very nice used magnaflow muffler and tips for 100$ and it seems to be in pretty good condition. Only issue is that my stock muffler has an offset on the inlet pipe, and this magnaflow's inlet is centered, so some minor pipe bending will need to be done to install it. Should I avoid this, will it cause any issues, or should I go ahead with the deal because I think it'd look and sound great with the CAI.
Thanks!
09-02-2012, 08:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Saudi Arabia
Posts: 10
when car is hot, i am not able to stat in one attempt, it start and die suddenly, in the second attempt it start normally. I am hearing hissing noise on back side of intake manifold. To check the vacuum leak, i sprayed carborater cleaner on the front side of intake manifold and vacuum pipe connection, but not able to find. i dont no from where the hissing sound is coming , kindly help
Last edited by arbabbio1; 09-02-2012 at 08:59 AM.
09-02-2012, 07:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
I just got a 5.5 gen 2002 Maxima with 3.5 VQ engine, 52k (go CarMax search tool!). Here's the thing: the engine (I am pretty sure) "sings" a really, really high-pitched power-saw tone on light acceleration right around 62-68 mph, then it goes even higher and mostly disappears from hearing range over about 70. It's identical every time, and happens every time. I'm thinking timing chain tensioner/guides is causing something to scrape? At lower speeds, it's a very, very light metal-scraping sound under normal acceleration, and louder woossshhh when you floor it. Still in CarMax 30 day warranty period, and have an appointment Tuesday.Car drives great, just irritating, and sure don't want t-chain troubles.... Thoughts?
09-04-2012, 03:24 PM
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Location: Kentucky
Posts: 7
I just recently got a 2002 nissan maxima SE 6-speed with 332k miles, same motor from another maxima with 100k on it, Before hand I was told it needed a knock sensor and a rack and pinion. I Bought a new knock sensor and before reading anything about this stuff I got the sensor out and realized the wire had been chewed through by mice (it was full of nests under there) but I noticed on the Sub-Harness there was 2 wires coming in and 1 going out to the sensor, I opened the harness up thinking it wasn't suppose to be like that but turns out I messed the harness up and can't find anywhere to buy one from. I checked local auto parts store and online but couldn't find anything.
Would anyone know where to find a new sub-harness?
I am assumeing this is what's wrong with the car because it will not go over 3k rpms without jerking down and it was the only error code that I was getting.
Would anyone know where to find a new sub-harness?
I am assumeing this is what's wrong with the car because it will not go over 3k rpms without jerking down and it was the only error code that I was getting.
09-04-2012, 07:01 PM
I just recently got a 2002 nissan maxima SE 6-speed with 332k miles, same motor from another maxima with 100k on it, Before hand I was told it needed a knock sensor and a rack and pinion. I Bought a new knock sensor and before reading anything about this stuff I got the sensor out and realized the wire had been chewed through by mice (it was full of nests under there) but I noticed on the Sub-Harness there was 2 wires coming in and 1 going out to the sensor, I opened the harness up thinking it wasn't suppose to be like that but turns out I messed the harness up and can't find anywhere to buy one from. I checked local auto parts store and online but couldn't find anything.
Would anyone know where to find a new sub-harness?
I am assumeing this is what's wrong with the car because it will not go over 3k rpms without jerking down and it was the only error code that I was getting.
Would anyone know where to find a new sub-harness?
I am assumeing this is what's wrong with the car because it will not go over 3k rpms without jerking down and it was the only error code that I was getting.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-2000-2003-42/
09-04-2012, 07:06 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 7
The only place that would sell a new wire harness is Nissan. You can go to a junk yard or look in the Maxima.org classified ads for a used one.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-2000-2003-42/
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-2000-2003-42/
09-04-2012, 07:17 PM
09-05-2012, 05:12 AM
I just recently got a 2002 nissan maxima SE 6-speed with 332k miles, same motor from another maxima with 100k on it, Before hand I was told it needed a knock sensor and a rack and pinion. I Bought a new knock sensor and before reading anything about this stuff I got the sensor out and realized the wire had been chewed through by mice (it was full of nests under there) but I noticed on the Sub-Harness there was 2 wires coming in and 1 going out to the sensor, I opened the harness up thinking it wasn't suppose to be like that but turns out I messed the harness up and can't find anywhere to buy one from. I checked local auto parts store and online but couldn't find anything.
Would anyone know where to find a new sub-harness?
I am assumeing this is what's wrong with the car because it will not go over 3k rpms without jerking down and it was the only error code that I was getting.
Would anyone know where to find a new sub-harness?
I am assumeing this is what's wrong with the car because it will not go over 3k rpms without jerking down and it was the only error code that I was getting.
Or, junkyard.