ant227p

so after searching the forum ive figured my maxima is showing the usual signs of needing one or both of the cam pos sensors and or the crankshaft sensor..

symptoms= hard starting(5-up cranks) and dead tachometer. tach gauge is stuck at 2000rpm

i have replaced all three sensors and still no improvement???? why??
can anyone help me remedy this??


side note-a week ago after filling the tank it came back to life but only below 2000rpm and that was short lived.. accel was jumpy....decel was smooth

Sheekdude

Hello, new to the site but I have a small issue with my 03. When I pull the lever for the washer fluid to spray no fluid sprays but the wipers do activate. I've tested the washer motor with my probe and it is functional but however not receiving a signal. Any knows where the fuse or relay is located? Thanks in advance for any help.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The windshield washer pump does not have a relay and runs off of the same fuse that the wiper motor uses.

How are you checking the washer pump, with a voltmeter? You say the motor is functional, you tested it with a probe??? Probes test for voltage. You need to unplug the wire connector and apply 12 volts and ground to the motor terminals to test it.

The way it works is that the red wire has 12 volts on it from the fuse and the pink wire goes to the switch on the steering column which connects the pink wire to ground to make the motor run.

Sheekdude

Power probes have the ability to send positive or negative current to any source. So I connected both wires to my power probe and applied the positive current and the washer pump works, so I'm guessing there is a break in one of the wires somewhere. Thanks this definitely helps, I'll keep you posted.

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Obviously new here so hello,

I have a couple of quick questions. First off, I just purchased (month ago) an 02' Maxima with just under 60k on the clock. My first Maxima and import for that matter. I'm typically a muscle car guy, but I wanted a practical, quick family car! I love it so far.

My only issue is that when I start out and get to lower gears to help mileage, I hear a weird rattling or "coffee can" noise when accelerating at lower speeds and RPMS. To be honest, it sounds like when I would put cheap fuel in my Cobra and it would "ping." However, this car has been maintained with the best of them. The guy I bought it from cherished this car as you could eat off any part of the car. I only run premium and baby it usually. Anyone else having this issue or heard of it?

Secondly, I'm looking to get into the mod game. As I stated earlier, not a lot of experience with imports. I'd just like to get some advice for some good, cheaper bolt ons. Maybe a recommendation for a good short throw shifter? I also don't want that loud exhaust.

Thanks for any help and any responses fellas...

AudiSport12

Hey all! Newb to the Nissan world, been a long time player in the German world though. Before I start, I have researched a ton but just want to clear things up! Anyhow, here is my issue..


I was recently handed a '00 Maxima GLE with a couple issues. The car cranks fine, idle's a litte high at ~1100rpm. Revs fine until the usual 2200rpm stopping point, then cuts in and out of throttle, eventually stalling. The other day I unplugged the MAF, ran a little better. Cleaned the MAF, helped a little bit. Cleaned the throttle body (w/o removing it). Still runs rough and stalls. I wasn't able to get a hold of a scanner until yesterday and pulled a P0100 and P1320 which through reasearch confirmed my MAF theory. So my question; The '00 MAF is $400+ at the dealership vs the '01 MAF at $115, are these interchangeable? I realize the '00 MAF have the temp sensor in it which is why it is more expensive. I read somewhere that I would have to solder in the temp sensor to make the '01 work in my '00? Is this correct or am I mis-reading? Or can I just plug and play?

I also developed a misfire after cleaning the throttle body (don't think this is MAF related, but could be by coincidence). I only started the car one time after I cleaned the throttle body and it ran the same as before I cleaned it. The next day, I fire it up and I feel it's not running on all cylinders/misfiring. Also, a somewhat deep black smoke was coming out of the exhaust. Think it is just burning off the cleaner and maybe fouled a plug? I did not spray excessive amount of TB cleaner in there at all, just enough to get it wet and I used a rag to wipe her clean.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


Unfortunately no pictures of the Maxima. Looks like a stock black/black thats been sitting under a tree in a sandy back yard for 4 months. Sad sight, really.


Edit: I feel as if this thread is only good for posting problems, not actually getting any traffic or feedback from knowledgeable members. If I were an elderly member, would this have been grouped in this thread? Sucks for someone trying to get quick help.

AudiSport12

I'm new here as well but from past experience sounds like you have a bad catalyst. They tend to break apart and make this rattleing noise you speak of.

AudiSport12

A lot cheaper but lacks the temp sensor. Will it plug and play?

edit: Jesus.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The original MAF for the 2000 and 2001 were the same. The 2002 and 2003 used a different MAF. Nissan then changed the part number and upped the price. I'm not sure what the difference is.

The 2000/01 MAF did not have an air temperature thermistor built into them, they used a separate sensor plugged into the air filter housing. The 2002/03 MAF has the thermistor built into it. $300 more for a $1 component - nice marketing ripoff.

Read this thread about using a 2000/01 MAF on a 2002/03 car (the reverse of you). Besides having lots of pics, it has a bunch of info.

As far as having to post here, this is a left over remnant of earlier org operations. New members could not start a new thread until they had 15 posts, so this was how they could ask questions. But that changed a couple of years ago. You can start a thread in the main section now.

AudiSport12

Thank you for you help.

So in short, I can go to the dealer and purchase a MAF for an '01 and it will work fine on my '00? Why the price differences in the '00 and '01 if they are the same? They asked for my VIN and told me the one I needed was the $400 one. When I asked to look up the price on a '01 he told me $120 or whatever it was.

I will look into this further. I just would like to have the MAF bought today!

AudiSport12

^^Disregaurd.

Found my answer. Thanks

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

A bad cat? You think so? Wouldn't it make the noise at most RPMS if it was that? It seems to do it just when I accelerate at low rps, low gear and low MPH. But thanks man, I'll take a look this weekend.

AudiSport12

Get under there and shake it/bang on it with something, see if you can hear anything from either the pre-cats or cat itself. It's a starting point, at least.

Traveler5

I just bought a 2001 Maxima GXE from my brother with 160,000 miles on it. He's taken very good care of it. I bought it knowing that the Check Engine Light, or whatever it's called, was on. My brother told me the light has been going on and off periodically throughout the year. He said that it did the same thing last year and he had to replace an O2 sensor. I had the code read and the P0430 code that comes up says: "Catalyst efficiency low Bank 2." Apparently the problem could be a bad catalytic converter or sensor(s). I've had the car a week and I know it won't pass inspection/emissions here in Utah so I can't get it registered until it passes. The friend who read the code also cleared the light. There are no performance issues with the car that I've noticed.

My question is, now that the light is off will an emissions tech hook a reader to it anyway to see if there are any codes that pop-up, or because there's no light on there's no reason to hook-up a reader? I suspect the P0430 code would still show-up if it was read again even though the light is off. I don't know how the emissions process works.

I know the P0430 code is a fairly common problem with 5th Gen Maximas and could get pretty expensive to fix yet many owners let it go without any damage to the car. I can live with it if the light comes on again (although it's been off now for 80 miles), I can take care of that later, but I really don't want to fork out $$ to get it fixed right now. I just need it to pass so I can get it registered.

By the way, I am no do-it-yourself mechanic and I don't have any friends who are mechanics. It would have to go to a shop to get fixed.

Thanks.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

If the DTC has been going off and on then there is a pending code stored which will be shown if you get an emission check.

Traveler5

Thanks. So it sounds like the tech will be checking for codes when the emissions is being performed? Most likely it won't go away and I'll have to get something fixed to get the code cleared. I'm just not sure what that "something" is and how much it will cost to fix it.

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I'll check that this weekend. Thanks man and I'll make sure and update when I do!

luckydustin

I had the check engine light come on and was able to use the codes to determine my #4 ignition coil was the problem. I ordered a new one but today when I replaced it, I found out the screw that secures it was broken. It no longer has a head at all and the ignition coil was not being securely held in place. So I bought a typical screw extraction tool set from Home Depot but the drill bits didn't make a scratch on the screw. Is it going to be possible to remove the screw? Is there another way to can secure the ignition coil so it's not lose? Basically, what options do I have? Also, could my problem be that the coil itself was not secure and doesn't require being replaced?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Could be a bad coil, loose coil, or a bad coil thats also loose. Hard to tell unless you get it out. Perhaps you can spot a local mechanic a couple bucks to extract the screw if you cant?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

When you are going to try and drill in metal, you first need to "center punch" the spot where you are going to grill so that the drill bit will stay in place and nor "wander" all over.If you need a big hole drilled, sometimes it is best to drill a small hole first and then drill the larger hole.

A center punch is a hardened metal rod with a point on the end that you hit with a hammer.

http://www.sears.com/search=center+p...e=CAT_REC_PRED

jptmaxima

The brake hose washers have one side flat and one side slightly rounded.
Is there a particular orientation that these have to be in? like rounded side up against the brake hose, top and bottom?

NEWMAXIMA2K

Hello to all the "Maxima.org" forums family,

Recently i got the door open signal with all doors closed. Then notoriously didn't have any power locks, interior lights, trunk lights, took it to my electrical guy checked with a tester all fuses ok (interior and under hood) turned to be ESCU...... Courtesy Nissan in Texas...took my vin and gave me part...............28595N-2y920............great guys there.

My question is part...............28595N-2y920............ plug and play since i used my Vin# will my car start then all i have to do is program the key fob procedure ?

Does the key need to be programmed (nissan original factory key) for the car to start ?

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

What year? 2000 I take it? I don't think we (5th or 5.5 gen) have chipped keys. At least mine doesn't. And what dealership (location wise) did you go to?

NEWMAXIMA2K

"

2000 Maxima GLE ...... my Key has a chip in it otherwise the car will not start. Courtesy NIssan in Texas......its imbedded in the key.. hope i am being as clear as possible.......I called them got info over the phone quoted $281......... im not sure if i get a used one same model# 2000 maxima gle that it would just plug and play also ?

Do these things come pre programmed ?
AES SAID $500 something unit programmed and the car will just start. Is that true. I live in NYC people rip you off in a sec.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You shouldn't need to get the key(s) reprogrammed. That info is not stored in the SECU (Smart Entrance Control Unit). I am not sure about the key fob, but I think that you will. Not a big deal though.

The dealer asked him for the car's VIN and gave him the part number. Since that part number only works in a 2000 year model, that is evidently what he has. The VIN tells the dealer year and month of manufacture, trim level (SE, GLE, GXE) auto or manual trans, emissions standard and a few other things.

Nissan Started using chipped keys with the 1999 model, so all cars sold in the US and Canadian markets have them. Your car should, too.

The op says he went to Courtesy Nissan in Richardson, Texas.

NEWMAXIMA2K

Thank you for the information it is of great value to me..........DennisMik, Textex
In your experience.....should I just buy a new part from (Courtesy Nissan Richardson Texas from Butch ext. 1337 he is very helpful guy.) put it in for $20 escu way up in steering area and just reprogram my key fob.....In NYC sandy ruined many cars they have been flooded thus bad electronics in many of them... also lots of old rusted cars being sold on the streets. Don't trust junk yard because how can they determine that part fits my car exacly i have fully loaded package TCS.....Sunroof...........

NEWMAXIMA2K

So once i install the exact part acquired by the VIN#........my doors locks will work my rear defrost will work and the interior lights...............then it is the key fob that is needed to complete the install......a DIY job that I can do super easy.......... thanks because Nissan said it takes 2 hrs for the car to be ready after they install the crap and i feel they are trying to steal my $$$$$$$$$$ USA.... 281 labor charge wow

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

I didn't look up the part or part number. I get what the VIN does!

Really? These little keys have chips in them? I actually did not know that. I am use to the bulkier Ford and GM chipped keys I guess. Good to know.

Eh, that's up to you. Can you do it yourself?

NEWMAXIMA2K

The key fob is easy few steps in the car you put the key in like 10x and hazards flash etc its on you tube..

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I've done that with my Cobra and my SS when I lost the keys. It's simple. Sorry, I didn't see where you said you could do it. They wanted 281 in labor? That's absurd...

NEWMAXIMA2K

yes according to what was posted i can plug it in and then do the key fob, so they are stealing $$$$$$$

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Well, you have to remember it's a business. They're there to make money. But 281 for that is REALLY, REALLY high. Are you sure the service writer understood what he was quoting you on? LMAO...

NEWMAXIMA2K

yes i told him that i needed the secu he said they need to put in then consul II then they had to put codes so that the car would respond to it........ and that was the labor charge for about 2 1/2 hrs.... maybe he misunderstood anything is possible.....

TexasTex

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like dealership jargon to me. I've worked at Sears Auto and a dealership, they tend to stretch what actually needs to be done from time to time. It's all about the bottom dollar.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Even though fobs can be programmed DIY without it, the dealer does use the Consult to program keys and fobs.

But they shouldn't charge more than 1 hour of labor, regardless of the number of keys or fobs.

NEWMAXIMA2K

I guess that they are bending the truth. My main question was that buying the part from the dealer SECU using my vin# (2000 MAXIMA GLE) would be able to just plug it in...thus enabling my power door windows, rear defog etc...... also to be able to start the car without it being taken to the dealer for programming ...... the factory key has a chip to start the car has nothing to do with programming the SECU from what i have learned thanks to some good people on here........ the car is running with the bad SECU no problems only don't have use of the things i mentioned above. Now that i know swapping out my SECU will not effect my ability to start the car only will have to reprogram the remote is a relief please if i am wrong let me know don't wanna swap out my piece and pay labor only to not be able to start my car and drive.

NEWMAXIMA2K

I am replacing rear suspension want to do it all brought 2 monroe strut mate mounting kits, 2 strut boot and bellows (kyb) set of rockwell springs and also i got to (kyb) excel2 struts... Is that all i need for a strut assembly ? my shop is cool will do it for me if i buy all the parts probably under 2 hrs of labor not the dealer. This guy literally goes all out to please his customers. Also replacing my lower control arm ball joint blown out....... does doing the inner and outer tie rod contain a lot more labor involved or is it part of the control arm job anyway ie. same labor for all parts or different labor charge. Since one is suspension other is steering ?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

OTR's are easy, ITR's, not as much. If he's a real crowd pleaser, he'll only add 1h for those.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Where are you located? I do installs for local org members in the NY/NJ/CT/PA/DE area...and yes it's worth the drive

Poor choice on a lot of those parts.
Check out my thread which has a lot of useful info:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

NEWMAXIMA2K

EIBACH SET IS WAY EXPENSIVE FOR MY BUDGET I HAVE LIFETIME ON THE STRUTS FROM 4 YRS AGO I INSTALLED THEM VIA SHOP WITH ALL THE OEM EQUIPMENT NOW I JUST WANTED TO GET NEW PARTS TO GO WITH MY STRUTS SO I GOT THE MOUNT KIT BELLOWS AND SPRINGS..... I would love to save $ via cash but this is on a CC no pun intended. Also not my CC jk

what is the poor choice of parts ?? I can always return it lol
springs were like 40$ lol rockwell EIBACH SET $291 tire rack lol
almost cost of all labor minus ITR AND OTR.......

"It's good to know there is a second option to fix my ride"............

ITR BECKARNLEY with Boot and plastic tie and i got a moog inner tie rod and got raysbestos lcm 91$ (Rock Auto). or is it the other way around OTR <-> ITR any suggestions i can just get new part...