choopster

NEED HELP...My 01 maxima is throwing P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve. also something fried last nite. I hope it didn't fry the ecu. can anybody tell me the location of the ecu.

thx

sirjinx21jay

Hey Guys,

I have a 2000 SE Max 94,450 miles on it and the other day the car threw a P0420 code but this is not the first time it has done this....... Should i be worried cause the first time it threw up a P0420 code i bought this stuff CRC Guaranteed To Pass complete fuel system cleaner and after like 300 miles the light went off on its own..... and then one day it came back on so i took it to Auto Zone and it was the same code and then when i was started the car to leave Auto Zone the light was off again....... Now on Sunday the check engine light is back on but i did not get the code read cause i think that its the same code....... What should i do?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

P0420 is usually associated with a bad 02 sensor

Otherwise, it could be:
1)a bad main cat<~~doubt it.
2)exhaust tube<~~leaky y-pipe/flange
3)intake air leak<~~stillen intake
4)injectors
5)injector leak
6)spark plug<~~depends on mileage
7)improper ignition timing<~~doubt it.

BTW, it's always a bad idea to dump anything into your fuel system when you don't know what the problem is...

BhB

Yeah I'm not really looking to blind anyone...So reflectors are what come in 02-03 Maximas? Thats really all I'm looking for I think...Is there a noticeable amount of light difference between Xenon projectors and the OEM reflectors?

Also, how hard is it to paint the housing on an OEM HID.

sirjinx21jay

Thanks.......... But i was goin to try and do the Seafoam thing before all this started happening again, i think that it may be the spark plugs (i hope) cause i have yet to do the 90 000 mile schedule maintenance.......... so when i can get the car to someone trustworthy i will get it done but no one in the DC area i think is trustworthy or they are but they want a arm and a leg and i cant do that cause i a college student.........But thanks for the help though.....Any suggestions.......

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

Seafoam... I cannot abide by anything that makes your car look like a five-alarm-fire.

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you have seen the difference. Reflectors are the chrome plated "bowls" that the bulbs reflect the light off of and onto the road. Projectors are those small, glass "camera-lens" style units that focus light directly from the bulb onto the road.

I suppose it depends on what cars/headlights you are talking about. I much prefer the reflectors in my Maxima over the projectors in my CTS-V. The CTS just has this sharp cut-off that makes you feel like you are driving into a void. The Maxima has nice gradual falloff, so even things beyond the beam path get an ever-so-slight amount of light. The CTS has a brighter, wider beam path, but that just seems worthless to me. By the time something makes it into the ultra-bright area right in front of your car, it is too late to react to it. And other than a stray deer, I am not interested in looking at side of the road scenery at night. Of course if you are just looking for range, you are better off staying with halogen lights.

To paint the oem housings, you would have to remove everything (wiring harnesses, bulbs, hid compartment cover, hid ballast, hid starter) then stick the whole thing in the oven to soften the sealant so you can separate the clear front from the black back. Or you could use a heat gun around the seam, but that would take alot of labor on your arms.

It's been a while since I did it (to clear the turn signals and install angle eyes, then again to remove the angel eyes after one came apart, I did not paint mine) so I dont remember the right temp. Search, but probably about 200 or so for 10 min or so. Just enough so the sealant is soft. Then you have to pry the two halves apart. I would use heat resistant engine paint. I am sure the lights make it hot in there, and in case you ever have to take the housing apart again so the paint will stand up to the oven.

gbwillner

bump? anyone?

FRZ251

Hello everyone, I am excited to join the forms. My 03 SE is pushing two codes reading : "Small leak in EVAP system" and other code reads : "Check EVAP small leak detected". We replaced the gas cap and erased the codes and it stayed off for a while but then a week later engine light came back on. Any Ideas to what is leaking? I heard something about blowing charcoal out of the EVAP cannister but am not sure what that means. Thanks everyone.

GigEmAgs07

so lately my max is havin some trouble when in park. It struggles to say alive, and will sometimes drop down to 200 rpms or so and survive, other times it will die. Either way, it's just not convincing. When stopped at red lights, it doesn't seem to be as smooth as it once was, and maybe it's in my head, but the engine seems to vibrate more than it used to. MAF? any ideas welcome, tia.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

what is the specific code it is throwing (i.e. p0120 or whatever)?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Sounds like an IACV problem. Does the car run fine when you're on the gas?

if it is rough when accelerating as well as when at idle, it could be:
- transmission/clutch problem
- MAF problem
- bad coil causing a misfire.

If it is just rough when idling, it's probably the IACV.

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

I think the reason no one has answered is your question is it does not make alot of sense. Why would you have to repaint your car if you are just going to replace the door trim? And why replace it? Just buff it or repaint it.

And while chrome over metal is pretty durable, I dont know if the same is true of chrome plating on plastic. What makes chrome so durable is the fact that it is a very hard metal. If bends even slightly, it will crack. Chrome alloys are much more malleable, but I dont know what exactly chrome plating consists of.

vansskaterfreek

iTrader: (14)

hey guys, i'm new to the 5th gens.. used to have a few 3rd gens before, well i have a question...... my 01 SE 5 speed just threw an air bag light on today, and i'm wondering if there is a common problem with these cars on certain parts???? thanks guys! Doug

gbwillner

Thanks for the response- You actually answered my question. Does anyone know where I can get the stock paint to fix the door trim?

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

You can get touch up paint at auto parts stores. They usually dont have a very good selection for imports though. Your other option is the dealer. Or go to courtesyparts.com to get some. They are a little cheaper, and saves you a trip to a dealership.

macnolias

iTrader: (1)

Well I was reading the post on the oil catch can http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469585 and was wondering if any of you guys went ahead and bought an official oil catch can which would be bigger and less frequent trips under the hood to pour the thing out? I bought the setup at home depot and the catch is very small and I'm not looking to drain the ting out every two gas fill ups.

PandaXpress

iTrader: (80)

OK...i just need to make sure (100%). Will a 5th gen exhaust fit a 5.5 gen?

aamir

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

I have an 02 Maxima 6 speed with 54k miles. Recently a noise has arisen whenever I start the car and drive it. I believe it is coming from the driver side in the engine bay and seems to be going in a circular motion. I know this sounds vague but I think it might be the clutch. If anyone can help me with this, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

ManUtd18

iTrader: (2)

I don't think it is the clutch or else you would feel it. Describe in detail what the noise sounds like.

I might be a heat shield somewhere but I'm not sure though. Need more detail.

aamir

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for the reply. It is a rattling noise that occurs when I let off the gas in any gear or when I push the clutch in. It also happens when I accelerate, but not as loud. Maybe I should check the oil level to see if the car needs oil. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

CV joints maybe? They were making noises on my 97.

DonS

Howdy,

My car's a 2K with a 5spd transmission. Just had the tranny rebuilt (diff bearings shot at 81k and here's me giving the finger to Nissan!) and the car came home yesterday. Now, the tach won't go past 3100 rpm. Engine spins fine, but the tach just stops dead at 3100. Could be my imagination, but the car doesn't feel quite as strong as before. No CEL and the engine sounds smooth...again, the power-loss thing may not be real.

Sure, it could be that the tach just needs to be changed...and that won't be a problem if need be as the one if there now isn't the original; it's an SE tach I put in a few years ago...but I'm wondering if the problem isn't the tach itself, but related to the work done on the tranny. Something to do with a sensor, perhaps.

Or, could just be that needle is sticking; it's currently quite warm and muggy here in upstate NY.

Anyone with any ideas, please chime in.

Thanks!

D.

machinehead131

iTrader: (1)

Try replacing your MAF

DonS

The MAF in there is only 2 years old. All 6 coils have been changed, too.

Is their a correlation between the MAF and a finicky tach?

Thanks,

D.

machinehead131

iTrader: (1)

Eh. Go to autozone/advance auto and get codes pulled, post em up and we can know for sure what it is.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I would further investigate. i.e.e take the dash assembly apart and see/verify if it IS sticking. If it is, then I would get a new assembly.

The tachometer gets its reading from the ECU(crank sensor). I wouldn't think the tranny work would affect it. If anything, IMO, the tranny work would affect the speedometer before the tach.

replicant

how much do you think you all have spent, total, for your current mods (excluding car audio, alarm, tint, sound deadening). i'm sure those of you with superchargers or nos have spent a lil bit more. i'm just curious what i should be budgeting for the most common mods. i know "common" is a subjective term, but i just want some sort of ballpark. i'm mostly looking to do the basic suspension stuff: FSTB, RSB, eventually do a modest drop (something like 1.5/2 finger wheel gap), CAI, eventually full exhaust, and of course all of the lighting mods (interior and exterior), powerslotted front and blank rear rotors and new brake pads, lastly i'm already dropping about 3 large on some body work and paint job. i'm sure the cost also depends on GD's you've been involved with, ebay deals, etc etc.

thanks for the roundabout dollar amount info.

CoolMax

iTrader: (7)

that's a newbie poll question, but i've spent about $2k

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

2k... cripes. I'm about 2.5x that with all my damn wheels and such.

replicant

hrm, ok 2k i can live with. 2.5x that? yeah thats gonna suck. wheels will prolly be my last purchase. i'm more concerned with handling and a few exterior mods right now. i've got the standard k&n drop in air filter for now (big whoop right?), then i'll move onto a CAI setup (with comes the huge amount of research to figure out which one is the best, why does it have to be so hard to decide on these things????!?!?!11). anyway, yeah i figure i'll keep this car until she dies (or until i win the lottery and get that bmw m3 i've always wanted), so i might as well put some extra cash into her to bring her back to life (she's been stock since the day i got her back in 02).

thanks again.

DonS

Makes sense. Thanks!

D.

macnolias

iTrader: (1)

I figured my post might be read here for fast feedback so my appology for not posting in the right place.

So I installed the oil catch can on my 2k2 max and something is messed up.

My car is taking 10-15 cranks for a cold start instead of the usual 2-3. I turn the car off and let it sit for a minute and it's taking a consistent 7-9 cranks to start. Any idea on what could be causing this?

I just put the setup back the way it was before and it's still the same. I did notice that I didn't move to O-ring from the old PCV to the new one which I did also just now.

Will it take the CPU or whatever time to adjust back to the way it was before?

Any help is greatlyyyyy appreciated.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Double check all connections to and from your catch can. Seems as if something occurred during the install/reinstall.

The ECU doesn't need time to readjust, something went wrong.

macnolias

iTrader: (1)

I put everything back the way it was but with the new PCV valve. It's kind of embarassing how long it's taking to start.

One thing I'd like to add is that I heard something very small and metal fall during the install right near the PCV valve. It wasn't any of the clamps and everything looks normal in the area of the instalation.

Helppppp

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Is your MIL on? How does it idle?

macnolias

iTrader: (1)

No MIL light and it purs like a baby. Is it possible for a vacuum leak? Also I is there a way to do a member find to see if anyone is close by with an 02-03 max? I just want to listen in the general area and see if something on mine doesn't sound the way it's supposed to.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

I live in FTL...but I have headers + b pipe.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=22

macnolias

iTrader: (1)

The find members has been disabled by the administrator