5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
10-05-2006, 02:51 PM
#241
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1
I have a 2000 maxima that is dieing @ idle when weather is cooler and has check engine light on. It has a 1126 obd code stored, can anyone tell me what this code means and possible causes. I suspect I have air fuel mixture problems. car also has rotten egg emission smell when this happens.
Thanks for any help, Ken
Thanks for any help, Ken
10-05-2006, 02:59 PM
#242
Originally Posted by ken3624003
I have a 2000 maxima that is dieing @ idle when weather is cooler and has check engine light on. It has a 1126 obd code stored, can anyone tell me what this code means and possible causes. I suspect I have air fuel mixture problems. car also has rotten egg emission smell when this happens.
Thanks for any help, Ken
Thanks for any help, Ken
for future reference: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481
P1126 - (2000-2001) Thermostat Function
Engine coolant temperature has not risen enough to open the thermostat
even though the engine has run long enough.
This is due to a leak in the seal or the thermostat stuck open.
Malfunction is detected when the engine coolant temperature does
not reach to specified temperature even though the engine has run
long enough.
10-08-2006, 06:31 PM
#245
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
Spoiler INstall
I just bought an '03 gle and tried unsuccessfully to install a spoiler. Once I used the template to drill the holes into the trunk I realized that the screw holes didnt match up with the holes inside the trunk that allow you to insert the screw. So now the spoiler is attached only by the center 2 screws. Did anyone else have this problem? Also, I removed the third brake light from the rear deck so i didnt have that one and the spoiler LED. When I wired the spoiler LED light to the feed from inside the trunk, I noticed that everytime I press on the brakes, the dash indicator saying that the brake light is out comes on. Does anyone know how to get around that?
I am sure this has come up before. I did a search but did not find anything, so If you guys could provide any info or point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.
I am sure this has come up before. I did a search but did not find anything, so If you guys could provide any info or point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.
10-08-2006, 06:59 PM
#246
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Originally Posted by tim_2006
I just bought an '03 gle and tried unsuccessfully to install a spoiler. Once I used the template to drill the holes into the trunk I realized that the screw holes didnt match up with the holes inside the trunk that allow you to insert the screw. So now the spoiler is attached only by the center 2 screws. Did anyone else have this problem? Also, I removed the third brake light from the rear deck so i didnt have that one and the spoiler LED. When I wired the spoiler LED light to the feed from inside the trunk, I noticed that everytime I press on the brakes, the dash indicator saying that the brake light is out comes on. Does anyone know how to get around that?
I am sure this has come up before. I did a search but did not find anything, so If you guys could provide any info or point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.
I am sure this has come up before. I did a search but did not find anything, so If you guys could provide any info or point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.
Regarding your brake light:
I spliced mine into the 3rd brake light wires with the supplied splicers. Then I just kept the plug disconnected from the 3rd light. I had no issues doing this.
10-08-2006, 08:27 PM
#247
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Posts: 3
Originally Posted by VaporHead
Can you drill through the inside of the trunk deck to get those holes you drilled? I had to drill through part of the inside of the trunk to get the bolt through.
Regarding your brake light:
I spliced mine into the 3rd brake light wires with the supplied splicers. Then I just kept the plug disconnected from the 3rd light. I had no issues doing this.
Regarding your brake light:
I spliced mine into the 3rd brake light wires with the supplied splicers. Then I just kept the plug disconnected from the 3rd light. I had no issues doing this.
And as for the LED light, I spliced into what looked to be a factory harness right on the inside of the trunk. The light works fine, but I think thats why I am getting the brake light out indicator, because I just left the inside harness for the brake light unplugged. So should I just run the LED wiring to the inside rear deck, and splice it there, where the actual brake light was?
10-09-2006, 07:35 AM
#250
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Originally Posted by tim_2006
Thanks for the quick reply. Yea my first thought was just to keep drilling through both layers of the trunk and make my own 'opening', but then I realized the hole i drill through the inside of the trunk deck would have to be wide enough for the screw head and drill extension to go through. I guess I will have to buy anther drill piece to drill a large enough whole for that. And should I be worried about plugging this new inner opening once the screws are in? The factory oppenings both have rubber plugs, I'm assuming to keep water out.
And as for the LED light, I spliced into what looked to be a factory harness right on the inside of the trunk. The light works fine, but I think thats why I am getting the brake light out indicator, because I just left the inside harness for the brake light unplugged. So should I just run the LED wiring to the inside rear deck, and splice it there, where the actual brake light was?
And as for the LED light, I spliced into what looked to be a factory harness right on the inside of the trunk. The light works fine, but I think thats why I am getting the brake light out indicator, because I just left the inside harness for the brake light unplugged. So should I just run the LED wiring to the inside rear deck, and splice it there, where the actual brake light was?
I ran my LED wires through the trunk and up to the 3rd brake light and tapped them in there. Like I said, I left the 3rd brake light unplugged. You have an '03 so I'm not sure if I even have that light indicator that you have or not.
10-09-2006, 08:24 AM
#251
What is the benefit of a 01-02 Pathfinder throttle-body? I just assumed it was for 4th gen w/ 00VI, but I'm sure I'm wrong. Is the diameter wider than stock, and if it is, will it be worth it on a 5th gen?
10-09-2006, 09:50 AM
#252
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
What's going on people, just hopped on this website in referrence from one of my boys around the way. He had told me I can get my answers here about my new Maxima 03 GXE. I got a couple of questions:
1. How much will it cost to change my automatic transmission to a standard?
2. What type of body kits look best on a black Maxima 03?
3. Where is the best place to find HID Fog Lights (whitish/blueish)?
1. How much will it cost to change my automatic transmission to a standard?
2. What type of body kits look best on a black Maxima 03?
3. Where is the best place to find HID Fog Lights (whitish/blueish)?
10-09-2006, 09:57 AM
#253
Originally Posted by iNFINITEPro
What's going on people, just hopped on this website in referrence from one of my boys around the way. He had told me I can get my answers here about my new Maxima 03 GXE. I got a couple of questions:
2. What type of body kits look best on a black Maxima 03?
3. Where is the best place to find HID Fog Lights (whitish/blueish)?
1. How much will it cost to change my automatic transmission to a standard?
3. Where is the best place to find HID Fog Lights (whitish/blueish)?
10-09-2006, 10:01 AM
#254
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
Originally Posted by clborden
I was quoted $3500.00. Maximum Tuning.com
10-09-2006, 10:13 AM
#255
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Posts: 3
I just got off the phone with my Nissan Dealer Service Team, and they said they will not provide that kind of work to be done on a 03 maxima. They said I'ma have nothing but problems but changing my car from automatic to standard, is that really the case? What types of problems will i encounter?
10-09-2006, 10:50 AM
#256
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by iNFINITEPro
Thanks for the quick reply, yeh i've heard like 2500 but i knew that was a low number the mechanic was giving me just to convince me i guess...sounds great then...I'm also thinking of dropipng my car, any suggestions on how many inches?
I believe most people here on the .org use Stillen for their body kits.
10-09-2006, 04:50 PM
#258
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 263
Manual shift boot trim cheap plastic!
I'm sure this one has been addressed before, but I could not find it in the how-tos or via the search, so I apologize if it's duplicating a recent topic.
What is the "easy" way or "The" way to fix the stupid shift boot trim bezel on a 6-speed so that it doesn't pop loose from the console nearly every time I shift into reverse? This is most irritating and it happened to my wife today. It was the very first time she's driven the car since I bought it, so it made a strong 1st impression. That impression was: "it's a cheap piece of plastic coming loose in a cheap car."
I know gluing it isn't the right answer, b/c it needs to come loose when removing the radio, etc.
Since no one responsed to my thread on this, I figure either there isn't any one good answer, or it was so stupid that I ought to try posting it in the Noobie thread. So here ya go...
What is the "easy" way or "The" way to fix the stupid shift boot trim bezel on a 6-speed so that it doesn't pop loose from the console nearly every time I shift into reverse? This is most irritating and it happened to my wife today. It was the very first time she's driven the car since I bought it, so it made a strong 1st impression. That impression was: "it's a cheap piece of plastic coming loose in a cheap car."
I know gluing it isn't the right answer, b/c it needs to come loose when removing the radio, etc.
Since no one responsed to my thread on this, I figure either there isn't any one good answer, or it was so stupid that I ought to try posting it in the Noobie thread. So here ya go...
10-09-2006, 08:14 PM
#260
Question 1) 2000 Maxima SE here with 205K on it (130,000 Miles) and it's an auto. Tranny slips at times, not all the time. Usually slips at about 2700-3300 rpm and then picks up. Notice it only does it when the car is not at operating temp, when car is fully warmed up, it doesnt do it much at all, but still happens a little. Is that tranny failure? or do i maybe need to change my auto tranny fluid? (im not sure how many km's into the cars life i need to change the tranny fluid)
Question 2) my right headlight doesn't work, but only when i use the headlights. Daytime running light works, and so does my highbeams, but when i put the lights on to drive at night, the right one doesnt work. I changed the bulb, so i know that the bulb isn't the problem. I'm guessing it's electrical, or possibly a fuse. Anyone have any idea's?
Thank you, i know i asked a lot, I'm a newbie when it comes to Maxima's and auto's.
Joey
Question 2) my right headlight doesn't work, but only when i use the headlights. Daytime running light works, and so does my highbeams, but when i put the lights on to drive at night, the right one doesnt work. I changed the bulb, so i know that the bulb isn't the problem. I'm guessing it's electrical, or possibly a fuse. Anyone have any idea's?
Thank you, i know i asked a lot, I'm a newbie when it comes to Maxima's and auto's.
Joey
10-09-2006, 11:36 PM
#261
Originally Posted by iNFINITEPro
I just got off the phone with my Nissan Dealer Service Team, and they said they will not provide that kind of work to be done on a 03 maxima. They said I'ma have nothing but problems but changing my car from automatic to standard, is that really the case? What types of problems will i encounter?
10-09-2006, 11:44 PM
#262
If you decided to keep your tranny, they do a Valve Body recalibration (VB mod) for your car. From what I read, that and a good Torque Converter should be a major improvement. It may not be as good as the convertion to a manual set up, but it is like half the price.
10-10-2006, 12:20 PM
#263
Originally Posted by Romster
Here's my problem: the driver side window opens 3" by itself when I auto-close it. I found a thread about it, read through it, and didn't find any answers. So I'm throwing it out there again in case someone has any updates. Thank you for you time.
Originally Posted by mrmj1218
Your Window Regulator needs to be reset, here is the procedure posted by another member:
Driver window one touch up RESET procedure - TIP!!
With the help of the technical service manual on CD produced by Nissan on the 2002 and 2003 Maxima I now have located the quick fix for a problem I have had since purchasing my used 2002 SE a few months ago. That is the drivers door window one-touch up function for the window was not working properly. The window would go up to the top and then retreat about 5 inches back down again. This problem is due to the limit switch needing to be reset which at first I thought would be a considerable job (to take off the door panel etc.) but ended up being literally a 2 minute job as the door panel can remain in place. My dealer wanted $85 CDN for the switch reset which I knew was a rip off before I found the fix procedure myself. I know several '02 and '03 Maxima owners have had this same problem as I saw earlier threads referencing it but no-one then appeared to know the fix. Alhough this procedure is simple once you do it, my description seems long as I wanted to be a descriptive as possible since I can't provide pictures. So here it is:
Step 1: Pry the plastic cap up off the bottom centre of the door pull handle and remove the single philips screw.
Step 2: Remove the whole switch panel (in which the door pull handle sits) by prying it up from the back end either with a flat edged screwdriver or table knife (under cloth) or by hand which is what I did. It is just clipped in so should come out relatively easily sliding it up at the back and then pulling it back.
You can now see the inside of the door from where the switch finishing plate sat. You can leave the wiring all attached and simply hang the switch and handle plastic assembly to one side so you can see the inside of the door.
Look inside towards the front bottom of the door behind the plastic vapour barrier you will see a small black switch. It almost looks like a black pan screw head. This is the reset switch but there is a sequence to now doing the actual reset procedure. The switch doesn't really feel like one when you press it through the plastic liner which incidentally you don't need to cut (at least I didn't have to). It is a switch that is only on when you are pressing it otherwise when released it is off.
STEP 3: Make sure the window is closed (up) completely. Turn the ignition on so the windows are receiving power.
a) Press the reset switch (and keep it pressed in) and open (down) the window completely (manually -NOT with AUTO ONE TOUCH DOWN FUNCTION).
b) Release the reset switch. Then close the window completely (manually only - NOT AUTO UP).
c) The limit switch is now reset. Easy!!!
This procedure worked for me straight away as I hope it will for you should you have this annoying problem. The Nissan manual does caution you not to use the one touch UP-DOWN function during this procedure so be warned.
Driver window one touch up RESET procedure - TIP!!
With the help of the technical service manual on CD produced by Nissan on the 2002 and 2003 Maxima I now have located the quick fix for a problem I have had since purchasing my used 2002 SE a few months ago. That is the drivers door window one-touch up function for the window was not working properly. The window would go up to the top and then retreat about 5 inches back down again. This problem is due to the limit switch needing to be reset which at first I thought would be a considerable job (to take off the door panel etc.) but ended up being literally a 2 minute job as the door panel can remain in place. My dealer wanted $85 CDN for the switch reset which I knew was a rip off before I found the fix procedure myself. I know several '02 and '03 Maxima owners have had this same problem as I saw earlier threads referencing it but no-one then appeared to know the fix. Alhough this procedure is simple once you do it, my description seems long as I wanted to be a descriptive as possible since I can't provide pictures. So here it is:
Step 1: Pry the plastic cap up off the bottom centre of the door pull handle and remove the single philips screw.
Step 2: Remove the whole switch panel (in which the door pull handle sits) by prying it up from the back end either with a flat edged screwdriver or table knife (under cloth) or by hand which is what I did. It is just clipped in so should come out relatively easily sliding it up at the back and then pulling it back.
You can now see the inside of the door from where the switch finishing plate sat. You can leave the wiring all attached and simply hang the switch and handle plastic assembly to one side so you can see the inside of the door.
Look inside towards the front bottom of the door behind the plastic vapour barrier you will see a small black switch. It almost looks like a black pan screw head. This is the reset switch but there is a sequence to now doing the actual reset procedure. The switch doesn't really feel like one when you press it through the plastic liner which incidentally you don't need to cut (at least I didn't have to). It is a switch that is only on when you are pressing it otherwise when released it is off.
STEP 3: Make sure the window is closed (up) completely. Turn the ignition on so the windows are receiving power.
a) Press the reset switch (and keep it pressed in) and open (down) the window completely (manually -NOT with AUTO ONE TOUCH DOWN FUNCTION).
b) Release the reset switch. Then close the window completely (manually only - NOT AUTO UP).
c) The limit switch is now reset. Easy!!!
This procedure worked for me straight away as I hope it will for you should you have this annoying problem. The Nissan manual does caution you not to use the one touch UP-DOWN function during this procedure so be warned.
10-11-2006, 08:08 AM
#264
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 9
I've been around on this forum for a while reading the helpful info, but now I have a question.
I have the whining sound coming from the belt area. I guess but not sure I noticed it when I had my both belts replaced at my mechanic shop few months ago. I don't know belts of which brand were installed in my car, but they're definitely not OEM (I can read only "K4356" on the alternator belt). I've already replaced the tensioner pulley with a new OEM one - still have this whine. What's interesting - I can reduce (but not eliminate) the noise by loosening the alternator belt, but in this case I have the belt slipping, especially when I start the car (e.g. in the morning) or under the load. If I tighten it then the whine increases. It's been for a few months now, I can't stand this "supercharger"-like sound anymore.
Any ideas guys what is this can be? All advices are very appreciated.
I have the whining sound coming from the belt area. I guess but not sure I noticed it when I had my both belts replaced at my mechanic shop few months ago. I don't know belts of which brand were installed in my car, but they're definitely not OEM (I can read only "K4356" on the alternator belt). I've already replaced the tensioner pulley with a new OEM one - still have this whine. What's interesting - I can reduce (but not eliminate) the noise by loosening the alternator belt, but in this case I have the belt slipping, especially when I start the car (e.g. in the morning) or under the load. If I tighten it then the whine increases. It's been for a few months now, I can't stand this "supercharger"-like sound anymore.
Any ideas guys what is this can be? All advices are very appreciated.
10-11-2006, 08:59 AM
#265
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 263
Does ANYONE make a larger-than-stock front sway bar for the 2002-2003 Maxima? All I can find are 22MM rear bars. Why doesnt anyone offer a kit with both a rear bar and a bigger front bar? I just bought my '03 and not only does it have the turning radius of a Mack truck, I am reaching the conclusion that it has the handling to match.
Also - regarding the aftermarket rear sway bars - does installation require any drilling or is it all bolt-on?
I realize the "hot set up" may just be RSB in conjuction with a FSTB.
Also - regarding the aftermarket rear sway bars - does installation require any drilling or is it all bolt-on?
I realize the "hot set up" may just be RSB in conjuction with a FSTB.
10-11-2006, 02:16 PM
#266
Originally Posted by AndyT
I've been around on this forum for a while reading the helpful info, but now I have a question.
I have the whining sound coming from the belt area. I guess but not sure I noticed it when I had my both belts replaced at my mechanic shop few months ago. I don't know belts of which brand were installed in my car, but they're definitely not OEM (I can read only "K4356" on the alternator belt). I've already replaced the tensioner pulley with a new OEM one - still have this whine. What's interesting - I can reduce (but not eliminate) the noise by loosening the alternator belt, but in this case I have the belt slipping, especially when I start the car (e.g. in the morning) or under the load. If I tighten it then the whine increases. It's been for a few months now, I can't stand this "supercharger"-like sound anymore.
Any ideas guys what is this can be? All advices are very appreciated.
I have the whining sound coming from the belt area. I guess but not sure I noticed it when I had my both belts replaced at my mechanic shop few months ago. I don't know belts of which brand were installed in my car, but they're definitely not OEM (I can read only "K4356" on the alternator belt). I've already replaced the tensioner pulley with a new OEM one - still have this whine. What's interesting - I can reduce (but not eliminate) the noise by loosening the alternator belt, but in this case I have the belt slipping, especially when I start the car (e.g. in the morning) or under the load. If I tighten it then the whine increases. It's been for a few months now, I can't stand this "supercharger"-like sound anymore.
Any ideas guys what is this can be? All advices are very appreciated.
10-11-2006, 04:31 PM
#267
Originally Posted by Succinct
Also - regarding the aftermarket rear sway bars - does installation require any drilling or is it all bolt-on?
There is more info on how to make your car handle better in the suspension forum stickies.
10-11-2006, 05:10 PM
#268
Alright, ive searched and searched and found a great bunch of info...yet i still have no idea how the hell to install foglights on a 00 gxe. i know that i have pieces in the fogs, but do i need to dremel it out, or will it come out? i know it is wired also, but where are they?? i got the fogs with no brackets either...just the housing and seperate bulbs. Do i need brackets? im really trying to do this myself so that i know how to do it for future reference, but maybe i should let someone who knows what they are doing handle it? i really appreciate any help i can get on this subject...thanks
10-11-2006, 06:37 PM
#269
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
Projector/Hid light
I purchased an 03 maxima that had been in an accident. The car is repaired however when replacing the headlights i bought the cheap projector headlights off ebay to save money. The sales rep at the company told me that i could wire these to the car just not use the hid module. Which is what i wanted to do since that was damaged in the accident. Anyway does anyone know how to wire the projector lights into this car? Right now i am thinking i will have to take these projectors lights out and buy the oem which as you all know are $$$ if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
10-11-2006, 06:43 PM
#270
Originally Posted by claplante
I purchased an 03 maxima that had been in an accident. The car is repaired however when replacing the headlights i bought the cheap projector headlights off ebay to save money. The sales rep at the company told me that i could wire these to the car just not use the hid module. Which is what i wanted to do since that was damaged in the accident. Anyway does anyone know how to wire the projector lights into this car? Right now i am thinking i will have to take these projectors lights out and buy the oem which as you all know are $$$ if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
10-12-2006, 03:10 AM
#271
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 2
Originally Posted by jchin34
Hi there, been doing searches and following this thread for a bit and haven't found any real answers.. I have a Maxima '01 SE where the Check Engine, ABS, TCS and SLIP lights are constantly on, any ideas on what might causing this? I did see a post in this thread where the brake fluid was topped off and I tried that to no success. Help!
Hi it's been a long while since I orginally posted this question w/o any answers. Can anyone help me out??
10-12-2006, 05:12 AM
#272
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
Originally Posted by irish44j
hate to say it, but just buy the OEMs. Yeah, they're expensive, but the projectors are JUNK....light output is terrible and they wil give you atrocious visibility at night. Don't even waste your time playing with the wiring.
10-12-2006, 05:30 AM
#273
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by jchin34
Hi it's been a long while since I orginally posted this question w/o any answers. Can anyone help me out??
The fact that you have the ABS light in addition to the TCS/SLIP lights is what differentiates this from our Maxima's classic ignition coil problem. That being said, trying searching for just ABS related problems to cut down on the mass amounts of TCS/SLIP related coil threads.
10-12-2006, 05:30 AM
#274
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by GBAUER
try loosening the bolt that goes through the tensioner pully. If it's too tight or loose, it'll make that noise.
Any other suggestions?
10-12-2006, 05:54 AM
#275
If you're referring to the idler pulley that provides tension for the alt, a/c belt, you cannot just loosen the tensioner bolt.
You have to loosen the pulley bolt as well. Because the pulley cannot move up or down (tightening or loosening) because it's tightened down itself.
The tensioner bolt raises the pulley up or down, but cannot move the pulley if it(pulley) is tightened.
You have to loosen the pulley bolt as well. Because the pulley cannot move up or down (tightening or loosening) because it's tightened down itself.
The tensioner bolt raises the pulley up or down, but cannot move the pulley if it(pulley) is tightened.
10-12-2006, 06:17 AM
#276
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
If you're referring to the idler pulley that provides tension for the alt, a/c belt, you cannot just loosen the tensioner bolt.
You have to loosen the pulley bolt as well. Because the pulley cannot move up or down (tightening or loosening) because it's tightened down itself.
The tensioner bolt raises the pulley up or down, but cannot move the pulley if it(pulley) is tightened.
You have to loosen the pulley bolt as well. Because the pulley cannot move up or down (tightening or loosening) because it's tightened down itself.
The tensioner bolt raises the pulley up or down, but cannot move the pulley if it(pulley) is tightened.
10-12-2006, 11:36 AM
#278
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Then thghten it more 
With properly tighten belt I have much louder whine. That's why I'm asking what else I can check or try. The whine changes with revs - the higher revs, the louder whine.
10-12-2006, 12:11 PM
#279
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 59
NmexMAX,
With properly tighten belt I have much louder whine. That's why I'm asking what else I can check or try. The whine changes with revs - the higher revs, the louder whine.
With properly tighten belt I have much louder whine. That's why I'm asking what else I can check or try. The whine changes with revs - the higher revs, the louder whine.
10-12-2006, 12:23 PM
#280
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by gephelps
did you overtighten the belt originally? You could have fried the bearings in one of the accessories.