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5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Old 11-20-2007, 03:08 PM
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New and looking for advice

Hey
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:13 PM
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New and looking for advice

Wassup everybody im a newbie here and i just had a few questions about my max. I have Stillen Headers, Injen CAI, Underdrive pulley, and HKS exhuast. My pops got the stillen headers for me, but doing my research i found out that there not so good after all. How bad are they? Anyway on another note can anyone give me some tips on tuning my max and waht i can do to get the most out of it. Oh yeah and where can i find a test pipe. Hey thanks guys for your time!!!
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
NGK for the brand, and we do not have plug wires.
Iridium or platinum?
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:23 PM
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Nice, Clean, Max
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Old 11-20-2007, 04:38 PM
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I just accidentally spun out 450 degrees in my car. I'm fine, the car is fine, I didn't hit anything. Question is though, why when I finally stopped was the engine off?
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Old 11-20-2007, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
Iridium or platinum?

Platinum is stock, I use Copper. Iridium are said to last longer. This has been covers too many times. This information is in the stickys, which also include Part #'s, which differ for the VQ30DE & VQ35DE.
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Old 11-20-2007, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TeH BawNeY
I just accidentally spun out 450 degrees in my car. I'm fine, the car is fine, I didn't hit anything. Question is though, why when I finally stopped was the engine off?

You scared the **** out of your car
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Old 11-20-2007, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bigjoe87865
Knocking during Idle...

My car seems to run fine... no smoke... but when im stopped at intersections... and idleing with normal temperature... i can feel knocking comming from the engine.... i know its really hard to explain sounds..... but it wasnt a ticking... or clicking... but a knock.. that i can feel... and slightly hear... its not severe or anything.. just a little nudge


when reving... i dont feel/hear it...

iv been using premium gas since i bought it..... but iv only had it for 3k miles... car is 123k old.... dont know what the previous owner did

or could it be a motormount thing?

knock sensor?...

Going to bump this post ... plus add some new information

So today.... the SES light comes on.... had a friend with an ODC II scan it... dont remember the code... but it did say " EVAP Emmisions control system leak (large) "

So i want
to know if this is whats causing my knock in the first post... if not... how do fix it?
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Old 11-20-2007, 05:59 PM
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How did u manage that?

Originally Posted by TeH BawNeY
I just accidentally spun out 450 degrees in my car. I'm fine, the car is fine, I didn't hit anything. Question is though, why when I finally stopped was the engine off?
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Old 11-20-2007, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TeH BawNeY
I just accidentally spun out 450 degrees in my car. I'm fine, the car is fine, I didn't hit anything. Question is though, why when I finally stopped was the engine off?
Unless you have an SES &/or driveability issues, I wouldn't worry.
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Old 11-20-2007, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ZIPPIN
How did u manage that?
It was on a freeway. My back tires are bald, I'm getting new ones Friday. It was raining today so I didn't drive all that fast. A slow left curve came up in the road, the tires hydro planed and the back end swung out.

The car is fine, no SES light, but why the hell did it shut off during the spin? I could barely counter steer without the power steering.
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Old 11-20-2007, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Platinum is stock, I use Copper. Iridium are said to last longer. This has been covers too many times. This information is in the stickys, which also include Part #'s, which differ for the VQ30DE & VQ35DE.
Yeah, I read that but it really didn't make a specific preferred recommendation. Copper is a great conductor but I'd prefer not to change plugs every 30,000 miles. I used Iridium in my 626, no horsepower gains like some of the magazines have reported but the idle was smoother. The main reason I bought them was that they are supposed to last well in excess of 100k miles.
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Old 11-20-2007, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TeH BawNeY
I why the hell did it shut off during the spin?
As was stated earlier (drive wheels suddenly going in reverse direction) that may have prompted it, since I did something similar in my 4th gen and it nearly died. I can look through the FSM for technical clarification about this, but at the moment I wouldn’t let it bother me.
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Old 11-21-2007, 02:59 AM
  #3854  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I can look through the FSM for technical clarification about this, but at the moment I wouldn’t let it bother me.
no need for the FSM. when you spin, when the car is rolling backwards so is the engine, the engine doesnt run very well in reverse so it dies. this is exactly why the police like a pit maneuver during a chase. dead engine=dead car in that situation.
 
Old 11-21-2007, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
As was stated earlier (drive wheels suddenly going in reverse direction) that may have prompted it, since I did something similar in my 4th gen and it nearly died. I can look through the FSM for technical clarification about this, but at the moment I wouldn’t let it bother me.
That makes sense. Damn I'm just happy to be alive :/
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:03 AM
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Anyone?
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bigjoe87865
Anyone?
Sorry, I forgot about yours. EVAP leak typically means there' either a hole in your EVAP canister (under car near gs tank ) or you gas ca[p is loose/off.

This code will not cause knock, whether it be rod or spark.
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:14 AM
  #3858  
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arite so i kno this is going to sound stupid but here it goes .. las nite i was on the parkway in nj filling up by me by the cheeseqauke service area ... arite so i hand the guy my card tell him fill it premium.. i look over when it clicked and saw it was only 47 to till .. which was odd cuz for me to fill its closer to 55-60 ... so i look at the grade he puts regular in .. this is the 1st tank of regular gas my car has seen since i bought it .. its an 03 .. my question is will this affect my engine now??? should i go run and by some octane booster and forget about it or should i burn this tank of gas as fast as possible??
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by alxarmanialx
arite so i kno this is going to sound stupid but here it goes .. las nite i was on the parkway in nj filling up by me by the cheeseqauke service area ... arite so i hand the guy my card tell him fill it premium.. i look over when it clicked and saw it was only 47 to till .. which was odd cuz for me to fill its closer to 55-60 ... so i look at the grade he puts regular in .. this is the 1st tank of regular gas my car has seen since i bought it .. its an 03 .. my question is will this affect my engine now??? should i go run and by some octane booster and forget about it or should i burn this tank of gas as fast as possible??
Don't worry about it. No big deal really. run off the tank of gas and fill it up with premium next time
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle00
Don't worry about it. No big deal really. run off the tank of gas and fill it up with premium next time
arite -- thank you man .. i was gettn scared cuz i dont nething screwing up ..
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by alxarmanialx
arite so i kno this is going to sound stupid but here it goes .. las nite i was on the parkway in nj filling up by me by the cheeseqauke service area ... arite so i hand the guy my card tell him fill it premium.. i look over when it clicked and saw it was only 47 to till .. which was odd cuz for me to fill its closer to 55-60 ... so i look at the grade he puts regular in .. this is the 1st tank of regular gas my car has seen since i bought it .. its an 03 .. my question is will this affect my engine now??? should i go run and by some octane booster and forget about it or should i burn this tank of gas as fast as possible??
move out of jersey so you can actually pump your own gas
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
move out of jersey so you can actually pump your own gas
i live in new york and i do pump my own gas .. but i was on the way to the gfs house and since gas is cheaper there i fill up in nj
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Sorry, I forgot about yours. EVAP leak typically means there' either a hole in your EVAP canister (under car near gs tank ) or you gas ca[p is loose/off.

This code will not cause knock, whether it be rod or spark.
yea..the gas cap was the first thing i checked... kept turning it to about 5 clicks.... but the light remains... am i supposed to clear the code and then see if it comes back on?... or its supposed to go off on its own once the issue has been addressed?

if its not the gas cap...

would i have to replace the canister?... or is there a fix for it?...

is it harmful to the car?....


---


And the knocking you say could be the ROD or spark right?.... so better to change the plugs and see if it still persists?
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bigjoe87865
yea..the gas cap was the first thing i checked... kept turning it to about 5 clicks.... but the light remains... am i supposed to clear the code and then see if it comes back on?... or its supposed to go off on its own once the issue has been addressed?

if its not the gas cap...

would i have to replace the canister?... or is there a fix for it?...

is it harmful to the car?....


---


And the knocking you say could be the ROD or spark right?.... so better to change the plugs and see if it still persists?
You have to be able to tell the difference between rod knock and spark knock. Once you figure out which one it is, then continue.

As for the EVAP, nothing aside from a SES light should come from it. There are a lot of how to's on how to fix it, depending on how big the leak is (canister) .

Before you fix it, you have to find th leak first and see how bad the problem is, if there is any.

Get the codes cleared and see what happens.
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:31 AM
  #3865  
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Originally Posted by TeH BawNeY
That makes sense. Damn I'm just happy to be alive :/
Next time, throw her into neutral....
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bjr
Next time, throw her into neutral....
It's more complicated than that.
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Old 11-21-2007, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You have to be able to tell the difference between rod knock and spark knock. Once you figure out which one it is, then continue.

As for the EVAP, nothing aside from a SES light should come from it. There are a lot of how to's on how to fix it, depending on how big the leak is (canister) .

Before you fix it, you have to find th leak first and see how bad the problem is, if there is any.

Get the codes cleared and see what happens.

ok... will find out the difference between rod knock and spark knock...

now... about the evap.... i should first clear the code and see if it comes back right?... cause if it was a loose gas cap... retightening it wont clear the code... i have to do it myself... and then see if it will come back or not....


am i correct so far?...

and i will do a search and find out where this cannister is located... and if there is a leak... and how to fix it... will report back

thank you
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:01 PM
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I'm new here but have a question.....lol that being this wonderful thread's name and my current situation.

I found a decent deal on a 2001 Maxima SE 20th anniversary edition with a 5 spd. and the owner bought it off of someone recently, and the history of the car is unknown. This is a big issue for me, and I'm wondering how I can check the state of the car with some basic checks....I heard Max's have problems with MAF's, O2 sensors, BOSE systems, coils and a few other things. How do I check if these have been changed or are malfunctioning and whatnot.....generally what should I look out for?

Also, when test driving the manual (i need some practice still but i can manage......its embarassing, yes I know, but its hard to find someone with a manual that'll let you drive it and perfect your shifting lol) what should I look out for? Any specific indicators to problems e.g. noises of any kind? And the engine idle.....should I hear clicking or anything.....what indicates problems?

Thanks a lot guys, I'm really looking forward to buying a MANUAL MAXIMA *drools*
I've been a lurker here, but I just registered, and I'm looking to remain a member
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
No, hold them at the same. Simultaneously.

2 thumbs, 2 buttons, 5 seconds.

BTW, thanks. That did the trick.
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Old 11-22-2007, 12:48 PM
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I bought 2 new tires.... should i leave them in the rear?


basicly.. i bought a set of 2 falkan ziex 912... and the ones in my front have about 30% usable thread left.... should i leave them in the front so it can wear out faster so i can replace them with another set of falkans?.... so i can have 4 falkans that arent that far apart in wear


or am i talking non sense?.
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Old 11-22-2007, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bigjoe87865
I bought 2 new tires.... should i leave them in the rear?


basicly.. i bought a set of 2 falkan ziex 912... and the ones in my front have about 30% usable thread left.... should i leave them in the front so it can wear out faster so i can replace them with another set of falkans?.... so i can have 4 falkans that arent that far apart in wear


or am i talking non sense?.
Always put the new ones in the front, you have a front wheel drive car........ not a rear wheel drive........
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Old 11-22-2007, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
Always put the new ones in the front, you have a front wheel drive car........ not a rear wheel drive........

wouldnt that mean i have to wait even longer for the old ones to wear out so it can be replaced?.... and wouldnt there be a thread % gap between the 2 sets?
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:39 PM
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Well, the rear ones would wear out a little slower, yes, but you don't have to wait for them to wear out to replace them. Put the old ones on the back, new ones on the front, and drive until you have the money, or time, or whatever your reason is, and buy new tires. They don't have to be bald to be replaced...

Question: How would the passenger front axle nut loosen up on its own?? Someone not tightening it correctly after work was done in that area, or am I having some sort of a suspension problem that caused it to vibrate more and loosen up? I know they are supposed to be very tight on there, and that shouldn't happen, I'm just wondering what gives...
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bigjoe87865
I bought 2 new tires.... should i leave them in the rear?


basicly.. i bought a set of 2 falkan ziex 912... and the ones in my front have about 30% usable thread left.... should i leave them in the front so it can wear out faster so i can replace them with another set of falkans?.... so i can have 4 falkans that arent that far apart in wear


or am i talking non sense?.
I'd just buy two more new ones and keep all four tires the same wear. It's just easier that way IMO.
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Lontar1
Always put the new ones in the front, you have a front wheel drive car........ not a rear wheel drive........

Actually the new ones go in back. There is a lot of weight over the front tires, less on the rear. Low tread in the rear + rain = 180s.
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:44 PM
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i disagree...if you have decent tread on the rear, the new ones go on the front. after driving they will wear more than the rear and become even.

who only buys two tires
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
i disagree...if you have decent tread on the rear, the new ones go on the front. after driving they will wear more than the rear and become even.

who only buys two tires
Any tire store will tell you the new tires go up front. I found out the hard way not to have tires with low tread in the rear when a car I owned swapped ends in the rain...and I was already going 15 under the limit.

I guess it would depend on how much tread was on the old ones too. I agree though, better to replace them all, especially if the remaining two don't have much tread left anyway.
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Old 11-22-2007, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
Any tire store will tell you the new tires go up front. I found out the hard way not to have tires with low tread in the rear when a car I owned swapped ends in the rain...and I was already going 15 under the limit.

I guess it would depend on how much tread was on the old ones too. I agree though, better to replace them all, especially if the remaining two don't have much tread left anyway.
my point...if the tires on the rear are bad enough....they should be replaced. you dont wont those tires on the drive wheels.
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Old 11-22-2007, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by nebojsa_o
Question: How would the passenger front axle nut loosen up on its own?? Someone not tightening it correctly after work was done in that area, or am I having some sort of a suspension problem that caused it to vibrate more and loosen up? I know they are supposed to be very tight on there, and that shouldn't happen, I'm just wondering what gives...
Post bump? Just trying to figure out if it's safe to just tighten the nut up to spec, and keep it going, or do I have something I should be looking into?
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Old 11-22-2007, 09:19 PM
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alright... i got some saying yes... some saying no...


basicly... yes... money is the issue... im strapped for cash... and would like to get the most out of my new tires and my existing tires.. which still have 30% of useable thread.. (not counting baldness or anything.... just 30% untill the indicators start showing up)


and those are in the front.


the new in the back.... i was replacing bald ones that were on the rear... with these new ones.... and waiting for the ones up front with the 30% to wear out... so i can replace those too....



and yea... buying 2 more right now is not an option...
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