Just Bought Brake Pads And Rotors, Brake Pads Not Fitting!!!!!!
 

My rotor is good. But when I put on the braking pads, the caliper is only going half way over the pads. Am i doing some thing wrong? new caliper? Wrong pads? I bought duralast pads. Really have no $ to buy hawk. But I called autozone (Place where i bought the products) and they told me it is the right part (Pads) for my max. Need help ASAP. Thanks

http://img3.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/c2a08c5c43.jpg

Can you take a pic and post? I'm not following what you are saying.

Also, what year car is this?

My car is a 2001. Give me 1 minute, im going to take pics now.

What do you mean not fitting? The pad isn't fitting properly in the caliper? Or when its put in the caliper it wont fit on the rotor?

Did you remember to compress the piston back into the caliper?

^Your right......i didnt compress the piston. How do you do that? Im sorry, this is my first braking job. Didnt know you have to compress the piston. How do you do that?

Reading his post again, that sounds exactly like what is happening.

Try this:
1)Open the brake fluid reservoir.
2)Using a C-clamp and a board (or old pad) to compress the caliper back in.
3)Watch the reservoir while doing this!!! You don't want the fluid to overflow out .

Thats where I'm thinkin the problem is, hence my question...we'll have to see his pics in a couple mins I guess. Hopefully thats all it is thats easy enough to fix.

I did the same thing on my first brake job when I had my first car...live and learn...

You are going to need a special tool from PepBoys in order to compress the rear piston...

^ what kind of tool? Can this be done with out that tool? Also, you mean open the fuel reservoir in the hood of my car? Let me know. Thanks

You only need the tool for the rear calipers. Like the others have said, you can use a C-clamp for the fronts.

You can get the tool from AutoZone (free) using their tool loan program.

And he means find the brake fluid reservoir under the hood, and remove the cap.

The tool probably uses 2 Wrenches. It fits over the calilper and latches onto it. You then (with the fluid resevoir open), SLOWLY rotate your wrenches in opposite directions (hey, this is how I was taught). It's almost like screwing the caliper back in. So it rotates and compresses the caliper. It's kinda funky, but better than spending wayy too much at a brake shop.

You may want to get the proper white grease to re-lubricate the "studs" on the brakes, to keep them easilyi sliding.

Oh yeah, watch the brake fluid to be sure it does not overflow (just in case).

I bought the tool that you need to take push piston back. I didnt have a c clamp, so I just bought some thing like it from my auto store. Im trying hard to push back the piston, buts its not budging. My hands are killing me right now. What else can I do? This sucks!!!!

Have another person hold the caliper down while you push and turn the piston in. Make no mistake about it, it's tough.

Oh, and yes, after seeing your pics, this is what you need to do. :nod:

Don't forget to properly bed your brakes in when all is said and done!

Push and turn? How do you turn? All I have is the spreader. That just pushes inward.

You should have a rectangular block with various notches that will align itself with the recesses in the piston.

So does the piston just push in? Or you have to turn it clock wise? Some body said that the fronts just push in, while the rears you just turn clockwise. Im doing my rears.

yea, from looking at the picture on the 1st post, those are rear calipers. Use needle nose pliers and put the tips in the notches and while trying to keep the "needle noses" in the notches turn the piston clockwise to rotate them all the way back into the caliper. It may be hard to turn. Spray some silicone or wd-40 on the rubber boot so they don't snag and rip on you. You may also have to unclip the clip that holds the parking brake cable to its bracket so you have more stlack to work with the caliper. Once the piston is rotated all the way in, make sure you have two notches perpendicularly lined up with the top of the caliper. The notch that sits on the bottom needs to slide over the round tab sticking out of the brake pad near the bottom... below the L in "Duralast" in your pic. If you have the wear sensors on those pads, set the pads up with them toward the back of the caliper, towards the ground side.

Do not push the rear piston back in with a c clamp or you will damage the "skrew" that's inside (parking brake mechanism).

If the brake caliper compressor tool isn't working to colapse the piston as you turn it, most likely the caliper is frozen.

^ Thanks guys......Just did my first rotor/brake pads install. I feel very proud of my self. Anyway, good looks guys.

So, how did you get everything resolved?

Instead of opening the fluid reservoir, crack open the bleeder valve when you compress the piston.

Well I twisted the piston clockwise. It was twisting pretty easy after I figured I had to twist it clockwise instead of pushing it in. I got it over the braking pads, and put everything together. Test drove it, it was really nice. Brakes was on point. No more sqeaking or grinding noise anymore. My old braking pads had no padding on them what so ever. I'm guessing that was my problem from the get go. Thanks to the dudes that gave me advice on the spot.......good looking.

I hope you torqued down the caliper bracket and applied anti-squeel, since the pic above does not show any.

:sprint: Yeah, NeverBe, I hope you appplied some anti-squeal on the back of the pads since you didn't use the brake shims as well. I'm sure that squeal will soon come back from that metal-to-metal contact of the caliper and brake pad. As far as torquing the pins on the caliper, it not necessarily needed. Just as long they are tight. Those pins are real easy to break if over torqued. Af far as turning the piston with the piston tool, if it's too hard to compress, try using a block of wood to wedge the caliper up against the rotor and turn the piston. This is what I do whenever the piston is hard to compress, especially when those pads are real low before changing them. For some reason, it always seem it's the passenger's side that has the most trouble. Hmmm, Nissan?

For next time...

What you can do is take the pads and rotor off. Leave them off. Attach the caliper bracket loosely and put the caliper on without pads.

This will hold the caliper on the car while you rotate the piston with the tool. I use a 1/2 inch ratchet that is 18 inches long. If you use a regular 3/8 inch you probably wont have enough leverage.

Once the piston is back in the bore you can take the caliper and caliper bracket off, reinstall the rotor, pads, bracket, and caliper and you should be good to go.

Make sure you align the indentations on the piston "north-south-east-west" Two should point directly up and down in the plane of the caliper and two should point left and right. The bottom most tab will hook into the little peg hanging out of the inner brake pad.

Hope that made sense..

+1 on that.. i found out about that recently when my pads needed to be replaced.. at first, both was partially applied, and i could smell burnt smell; then i checked and realized i had to do that.
but now, my rear right piston is sticking, and brake still being applied.
any suggestions? i don't know how to rebuild the caliper so dunno what to do
again, only to rear right. i'm sure of it cuz i can feel the heat when i go check on it, but haven't had much time. tried to compress piston back in twice, and still does that

Unhook your parking brake cable from that caliper to make sure the parking brake cable isnt sticking.

If its really the caliper sticking then you'll have to replace it. I wouldnt rebuild a seized caliper.