ODB

If I turn on the AC while stuck in stop-and-go traffic on a hot day, the engine temp gauge starts rising - quickly enough that I have to turn the AC off after ~5 minutes.

The temperature settles back down if I turn off the AC or if the traffic lets up and I can drive at a good speed.

Both fans are running when the AC is on. The AC itself is working fine (nice and cool). I had the radiator coolant changed in the last 10K miles or so.

Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks.

AnDyMaN

iTrader: (19)

somethings wrong..........................



maybe the thermostat?

Zero Deuce SE

Make sure there isn't a lot of bugs or other trash blocking the tubes and fins on your condenser and radiator. It's hard for the fans to keep up on hot days when you're standing still too long.

imjd

Check the coolant level. You should have a couple of inches of coolant in the reserve tank with the engine cold.
Also - WITH THE ENGINE COLD - remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is full. The coolant level should be right up to the top, there should be no air space in the radiator. If the engine is hot the radiator will be under pressure and you could get scalded so wait until it cools.

If the level is not OK, then add 50/50 mix and keep an eye on it. Fill the radiator first, then fill the reserve tank over the "min" mark. Possibly they didn't fill it right when you had the service, but suspect a leak until proven otherwise.

Popular places for leaks are around the water pump shaft, a cracked coolant reserve tank, a crack in the radiator, or one of the rubber hoses. On the 3.5 engine the water pump is driven by the timing chain - I assume it is on the 3.0 too, and unfortuntely that makes it tough to check or replace.

If the rad level is OK then you are probably looking at one of these things:
1) radiator core plugged up with deposits (you can try flushing if you want, but likely it will need to be replaced)

2) stuck thermostat - comparatively simple to fix, but also doesn't quite fit your description of symptoms. If this were the problem then you would expect the engine temperature to be unstable under most conditions - i.e. would go down during highway drive and/or cold weather, would go up in stop and go traffic and/or hot weather. It sounds like yours is stable except under stress, which probably means the thermostat is OK. It's possible that the thermostat isn't opening fully, though, which would do what you report.

3) collapsed hose - gently squeeze the lower rad hose. It should have a coil spring inside it to keep it from collapsing. This will not be the problem unless the hose was removed for some reason and the person who did the work did not replace the spring.
(later edit - sorry, my mistake, I guess they do not put these in any longer. You probably don't have the coil and don't need it.)

tedo007

iTrader: (6)

check your oil level you might be low

Pearltt

I had the same problem last summer. Nissan replaced everything...the thermostat, hoses and even did a flush...Turned out the radiator was clogged...Replaced it and never had a problem again...

Love_00_Max

I would suspect the radiator too, mine was shot thanks to improper choice of coolants.

Never take short cuts with Japanese made vehicles on coolants, end up paying a big price. Shell out the $20/G on the coolant and rest in peace for another 5 yrs, by then many will be wanting a trade in and drive a new one anyway...

Zero Deuce SE

I used Prestone green in my car and haven't had any problems in 60,000 miles. The dealer even uses it in Nissans.

Love_00_Max

Sure, but then it doesn't show up in a yr or so. My radiator shot after 3 yrs of monkeying with coolants, starting with Prestone, Peak etc. Dealers are id.ots when it crosses 60K but are intelligent when it is under warranty. Remember poor choice of coolant does not show up immediately, it is sitting there cooking for one fine summer to blow up.

Once again DONOT monkey with coolants, just suck up, pay the $20/G and move on.

Zero Deuce SE

I've been using it long enough to show any signs of damage. I have used it in all 6 of my Nissans and haven't had a single problem. My old 95 King Cab had 165,000 miles on it when I sold it and still had the original water pump. Prestone green works and that's why the dealer uses it. I actually tried to buy some Nissan coolant at the dealer and they didn't sell any.

Love_00_Max

Zero Deuce SE: I am quite humbled with your success with Prestone, I for one have been quite unfortunate with non-OEM coolants.

I have weighed in with my opinion, atleast I won't investigate with different coolants moving forward, I have had enough of it. (Spent close to $800 on diagnosis, re-diagnosis, re-re-diagnosis, finally new radiator and then installation).

$20 is pennies when it comes to headackes with cooling system.

Zero Deuce SE

Nissan advises to use "Genuine Nissan anti-freeze cooant or equivalent with 50% anti-freeze and 50% demineralized/distilled water." They don't give any specs for their anti-freeze/coolant to know what the equivalent is. Prestone has been in the business long enough to know how to make the right product to cover most if not all manufacturers specs. Did you use distilled water in yours?

A33 VQ30DEK

iTrader: (23)

get a griffin radiator! =)

VQ30GTR

The only time I had issues was with GM- My 96 Grand Prix had the Dex Cool. When replaced with Prestone ate away at my IM gasket. So you can only use the DEX COOL in cars compatible. Have had prestone in my 01 Max since year (2), replaced every (2) years, all ok. My dealer too did not have any Nissan coolant to sell me, but told me he could order. He said just go get the green.

NisTech

good diag bud, also remember that condenser is in front of the rad drawing even more hotter air.
Most likely there will be leafs in condenser and in between condenser and rad.

CKOTuHA

iTrader: (11)

The same thing happened to me today, when I was standing still, my temp gauge start going up with AC.
Let us know ODB how did you fix yours.
I will check tomorrow for any lose hoses or leafs.

CKOTuHA

iTrader: (11)

I've checkd today and all hoses are fine. I din't find any leafs stock in radiator or around it. Coolant compartment is filled a little bit higher then Max line. Car still heats up when AC is on.
Today it was heating up even on the highway when I was cruising about 60-70 mph. I don't know what to do. In this type of weather (96 F) without AC its impossible to drive black on black car.
Any suggestions guys?

Hellspawn

Our 97 is facing the same kind of problem, low speeds (below 25) and idle with A/C and the needle climbs pretty quickly.

I'm doing the thermostat tomorrow (OEM) and if that doesn't fix it then I'll get a oem-quality radiator. Be damned if I'll let the dealer do it for me. NOW, if those two things don't fix it, THEN I'll be ready to hand over the wallet.

Harut

Take the thermostat out, it will just take longer for your car to warm up, but it will run colder.

Harut

My car has 97,000 miles and i changed the coolent for the first time last week. i never had a overheating problem.

CKOTuHA

iTrader: (11)

So by changing coolant, specifically OEM, the problem could go away?

Joseph Beardsley

User1

Didn't read each post and I don't care.

What about high speed fan solenoid?

maxiiiboy

I don't understand your message.
Are you asking for help? If so, what exactly do you need ?
If not, what are you trying to tell us ??
Is this about 2004 Civic or about 2000 Maxima ????
We are all VERY confused ................
In either case, some punctuation and better sentence structure would help ......

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Do you guys realize this thread is over 10 years old?

Silly newb with one post dredged up a thread from 2007 to talk about his Civic.

User1

Well I guess I'll go hang myself from a ceiling fan now!

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

We've all done it one time or another.