MetalBlueMaxx

iTrader: (1)

Just wondering, w/o oil filter = 4.2 w/oil filter = 4.4 but theoretically couldn't you fill it to the max line at about 5.0 quarts or a little less (to be safe) so the car would run cooler/smoother. Or would this raise the compression to a more unsafe level and lead to engine stress as I'm sure it would, but seems like more oil = better. I really hate the sound of those oil ticker things haha better have that sound than a engine with oil spewing out the sides of it though.

Another question theoretically wouldn't heavy rims, i.e. my konig 18"s have better traction (less apt to burn out) than really light rims, of course at the expense of suspension response.. or is it just a matter of suspension setup. anyhoo I know I'm questioning some basic principles here, but jus seems like it should work this way?

thx

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Raising CR w/ excessive oil? never hard of that.

Traction isn't found in your wheels, it's on the surface area of your tire

Lightest wheel & stickiest tire is probably the best set-up.

P. Samson

You don't want to go much above the "High/Full" mark on the dipstick. Even with the Maxi's oil pan baffle, overfilling could cause the crank/rods to "dip into" the oil "full time" and cause foaming of the oil among other issues. Your Gen. 5.5 has a coolant/oil type oil cooler that should limit the max. temp. of the oil to well below "dangerous" levels.

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

heavy rims =slower rotational mass= more "traction" due to= engine has to work harder, if you will. . .

and ore oil,... err.. dont do that . . lol

pbn85

iTrader: (8)

wait...so how many quarts are needed just for oil to show on the dipstick? To bring the level to the "H" line you need 5 quarts?

P. Samson

This has been "covered" many, many times, but I'll try again. 5 US qts. is too much unless you are talking a "dry" engine. On an engine that's been "in service" and then had the oil dumped and with a new filter, it's 4.25 US qts. per the FSM. I suggest you put a total of 4 qts. in, run the engine for a few minutes, shutdown for about 15 or 20 min. or more and check the dipstick. Add oil if necessary. You are not necessarily going to have to put in 4 & 1/4 gts. to get to the Full mark on the dipstick even IF it showed Full before the draining. It is going to vary, due to actual oil viscosity, drain time, car attitude etc. I drain (10W-30 oil, hot/warm) on almost level ground, for at least a half-hour drip time. I barely can get a total of 4 litres in, which on the dipstick later, shows Full or even slightly over. Shows about the same on recheck in the morning. This is almost exactly what the FSM indicates. The FSM states that for a "dry" (new/overhauled) engine, it's 5.2 US qts. to the Full mark on the dipstick. ALWAYS go by the level indicated on the dipstick. (after at least a 15 or 20 min. shutdown time)

Drockb418

iTrader: (10)

wat type of oil should use for a 2000 maxima with 89000 miles on it?

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

I dont know about rasing your compression, (our engines already have high comp) but you will have high oil pressure lol. I wouldnt want to put too much oil in a vq35, more likley for you to end up with some messed up piston rings. Too much oil will also lead to blown gaskets, burned up rod bearings and main bearings.

the good kind

BigFly_2K2SE

iTrader: (1)

For the record, in my 2002 3.5L VQ, if I add the amount indicated in the manual, it will take me to just above the add line. This has been repeated many times with the same results. If I want to get to the 'H' I need to add another half of a quart.

jeff5347

ok couple things. You cant raise comp ratio by adding more or putting less oil in the engine. The only way to raise compression is:
1. shave cylinder heads to make the combustion chamber have less CC's
2. Thinner head gasket
3. Different pistons

Also with extra oil you wont get higher oil pressure. Oil pressure is determined by the oil pump and this will not change (albiet it will with different weight oils). It is not good to have more oil in the engine than required as it can actually reduce power by having the level to high and coming in contact with the crank. This produces an egg beater effect which can slow the crank down, reduce the time the engine revs and all around reduce power.

"What happens when an engine is overfilled with oil?
So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.
Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc. A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth. Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure. It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good.
Well, you did ask."

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

4.25-4.5 quarts is good amount.. anything more is jus askin for trouble

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

I put in a little less than 4 quarts every oil change. I usually only get about 3 quarts out.

CoolMax

iTrader: (7)

oil
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=70

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

I put in 4.5 quarts ever since mile 1 i now have 116k miles and no problems as always mobil 1 5w-30 no matter winter or summer. I put in 4.5 and thats what comes out

MetalBlueMaxx

iTrader: (1)

lol been run 5 qts running great... either way some people running 4 some 5 I bet my 5 is much.. I'll stick with 4.6 or so as I burn oil because of my driving habits. SO my theory on traction with heavy rims is incorrect, seems as if little light rims would just smoke, heavy rims in high HP applications would do better..

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

a high hp car will spin tires regardless, your theory about the light/heavy wheels is kind of strange because this is more about torque, to help stop wheelspin you need to put weight over the axles.



Also to add to the egg beater effect of the crankshaft, ive also heard something about the bubbles messing up the oil pump too.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Grip is more relative to tire compound rather than wheel weight.