Okay so I'm new on here and I was reading on the info you guys put about the p/s hose and the buzzing sound. I just got the Edlemann hose in the mail today and I was wondering if I change the old hose with this one new am I gonna have the same buzzing sound as you guys are?? :confused:

If you are able to, for the good of the forums, can you pick up the Nissan OE high pressure power steering hose from a dealer (Call 1-888-254-6060, ask for Dave B and say you are from Maxima ORG Forums) because it's speculated that aftermarket high pressure power steering hoses for the 2000+ Maxima produce the buzzing noise when they replace the OEM hose.

JB WELD TIN FOIL GORDITA
 

Okay guys I know I'm going to get all kinds of flack for this, but you know what, it worked for 6 months. My PS hose leak was right up at the top where the metal meets rubber and would literally shoot a stream of fluid upward. Needing to NOT spend the 450+ repair bucks that month, I decided to get some JB WELD (the strongest version available) and slather it in tinfoil, wrap the joint with it 1 inch to either side of the leak, let it set up for 24 hr, and see what happens. It took it down to a slight drip where we needed to add about a quart of fluid every month or so. And it's stayed that way for 6 months. Alas, I'm getting my Dave B hose today and am looking forward to a 93 degree afternoon. Had I done a better job on the gordita and maybe first did a rubber bonding material THEN over that a metal bonding material, it just might have worked with full success. Looks like hell, but 5 bucks. 5 minutes. :laugh:

2months, so far no buzzing

2000 Infinit i30 HP Power Steering hose
 

I too had the PS hose leaking and checked around locally for the part. From $150-200. I too ordered from Rock Auto and got the Eldeman for around $90. The job is not too bad, the b---- is the bottom bolt. I now think i may have gone on easier if I had installed the bottom bolt first then the top.
After reading the post about the whining noise with the Eldeman, I called Rock Auto to let them know that I had read these post and wondered if it was too late to upgrade to a Gates. The guy on the phone said no it wasn't. but Eldeman made Gates hoses. So wtf. I let the Eldeman come on and installed it last Saturday, stopped my leak, but do have the whining noise that is a little aggravating, but may be able to live with it. My reservoir is full, but it sounds like it needs fluid. I wonder if there is an air lock that could be preventing the fluid to reach the pump?
If any one finds a fix for this noise, please let me know. I sure don't want to have to send it to the shop, which would cost up to $500., or by the Nissan brand which is probably over $200.
Thanks Fred

My wife's car, the 2000 Maxima GXE recently starting losing fluid over the last week and groaning daily. I searched through the forums and found this thread a few days ago. After reading through this thread, I've been dreading it.

I picked up the power steering hose from the local Nissan stealership for $155 and two new copper crush washers for $2.30 each.

I decided today around 6:30PM to start the job. I jacked it up, stabilized it, removed the passenger front wheel, layed out my tools on the tool cart and got to work. It took me 15-20 minutes to remove the old hose starting with the banjo bolt and let it drain into my pan, then the hold down clamp and finally the top joint with the sensor.

Installing the new hose by first loosely starting the banjo bolt with new crush washers. A trick is to position it while holding from the top and rotating as needed, sorry if you have short arms, this made it easy starting the banjo bolt. Next I loosely started the top connection by the sensor, then attached the clamp/bracket and then tightened everything down. This took me about 25 minutes to attach the new hose and tighten the fittings.

The clamp/bracket was the trickiest part. I aligned it and used sharp nose vice grips to hold it while I inserted the bolt with an extension and a swivel. The dealer mechanic suggested I opt for a zip-tie if it was too much of a hassle to hold the bracket closed while fishing the bolt in, then cut off the zip-tie.

The total time it took me to take it to the car wash, clean under the hood and frame, return home, layout tools, remove and install hose and refill, bleed, start engine, bleed again, test for leaks, test drive, go to the car wash to clean up hand prints and return home by 8P took me just over an hour. 1.5 hours!

If I had paid a mechanic to do this job, I would have overpaid, but I guess it depends on how much your time is worth, if you have the proper tools, etc. The most difficult part of this job was reading all the horror stories in this thread from everyone dealing with this issue. I'm not sure why things were so difficult for you guys, but it is easier the higher you can get the car on jack stands and of course the wheel removed.

Here's a TIP I will give on bleeding your system based on my past decades of D.I.Y. experience with replacing power steering pumps, etc.
1. Replace parts as needed and tighten connections.
2. With front tires off ground and engine off fill reservoir with proper fluid.
3. Turn ignition key to unlock steering, but not start car and turn wheel several times lock to lock (right to left to right to left, etc.) I call this a Dead bleed.
Note: If you start the car for the bleeding procedure, it causes micro bubbles to remain in the fluid as foam and is extremely difficult to remove without letting the car sit for a few days, drain and restart procedure.
4. Check fluid and top off if needed.
5. After the dead bleed, start car and repeat lock to lock procedure a few times with front tires off ground. I call this a Live bleed.
6. Lower car to the ground and test drive. Groaning should not exist unless you have foamy fluid in your system, which may have to be power flushed if so.

Disclaimer: This is solely based on my experience and the thoughts and suggestions expressed here are not necessarily for everyone. Take as my $0.02 worth.

I just noticed this last week. I'm at 90k.

FML.. Ive been fixing mine for the last 4 days.. Jumped the gun and ordered a new pump before I realized it was the pressure line.. Went and picked up a new pressure line and took the old one apart.. Except we stripped the flange bolt at the top.. You know where to get that bolt replaced? Nowhere.. thats where :) I found an 00 Maxima in a yard and bought that one.. But now I have to put the new bolt on the steel line and re flange the tube.. You know where to get a metric tube flanger? Nowhere again... What a PITA

Well finally got around to replacing power steering pressure hose (two months since I first saw the leak) Came home from work and while backing into garage saw a steady stream of oil following me into garage. That told me it was time. Ordered a Edelmann from Rock Auto for $98 and some change delivered. Followed advise from just about everybody on the Org, the hardest part for me was getting the banjo bolt off. All in all it took me 2.5hrs to remove and replace. Special kudos to maxgen 5 on the "Dry Bleed"and wet bleed process, worked like a champ, no annoying pump noise yet. Had a small leak after installation on first day but went away after being driven for a coupla days, (copper washers must have seated themselves). All n all a happy 2k2 owner again. Didn't post any pics because there's an abundant amount of them detailing remove and replacing hose.

Just did it today The whole job off and on took me 1.5 hr, stripped the top bolt, got one from Junk yard (older altima has the same bolt), cut re-flang the tube took me 15 min .... look for the bolt @ the junk yard took me 45min, so the total time lost is 2.5hrs ... :) , I still see some leak @ the banjo bolt, what's the torque for it? don't want to over torque it ... thanks

Ooo, just noticed a growling coming from my front end when turning.....checked under the hood, sure enough, no ps fluid. The best part? The foam hose around the hp ps hose full of ps fluid and now all over my engine!! Looks like I'll be tackling this job as well. Great pics kbohip!! Those should make the job a lot easier....or so I hope....

I'm guilty of doing this. I filled my ps reservoir and then started my car thinking there would be enough fluid in the reservoir to keep it from running dry. There was not and air was introduced into the line. I then bled out the line again using the "dead" method but to no avail. Unfortunately, as this car is my DD, I can't lit it sit for a few days to hopefully get these micro bubbles out of the system.:banghead:

I just had this done - fluid leak was getting pretty bad. I didn't want to deal with it and had my mechanic do it. Part was about 175 and 1.5hrs. labor. Funny thing is my 92 sentra blew the pressure hose at 95k miles and my 02 max did it at the same mileage :rolleyes: You'd think Nissan could design a hose that would last longer than that in 10 years.

Ok, so I just did this.....took me about an hour or so....not too bad with all the tips....so thanks to all.

Got a few more helpful ideas for removal and reinstallation....

1) removal - 15/16 in. socket is a PERFECT fit (see pic below)...I'd say better than 24 mm. I bought the Kobalt 24 mm socket (on the left in the pic) as a just in case and didn't use it. Plus the Kobalt sockets don't have the hex head design and they end up stripping the bolts.

2) installation - mark the banjo bolt and the power steering hose insert (just in case) before removing. This will help when trying to line the bolt back up the opening in the new hose. Once the hose is removed, you can check the markings you've made on the bolt against the new hose insert and mark the new hose insert as needed.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...4-10_16311.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...4-10_16551.jpg

I just replaced the leaky pressure hose with the Edelmann from Rockauto. My Maxima has 110k but it must have sprung a leak before I bought the vehicle last spring and did not notice that someone had actually wrapped the top of the hose with a patch (pieced from another hose that was epoxied and held with worm type hose clamps hidden under the soft rubber wrap). Unfortunately another part of the hose gave way so I was forced to go ahead and replace it. I ran into two issues that others may want to be aware of. First off, for better access and visibility to the banjo end of the hose I removed the lower plastic panel inside the wheel well, however due to corrosion, the bolt located underneath the chassis was frozen in and broke when I attempted to remove it. I had to drill out the remaining part and retap the hole to put the panel back on. The old hose came off fairly quickly in less than a 1/2 hour, although the top pressure fitting needed some persuading before it came off. Once I got the top part of the hose disconnected and the sensor removed, I moved it out of the way and got a little extra access to the mid-point bracket screw. I was able to get a 1/4 air ratchet with a short 10 mm socket onto the screw and it came off very quickly (access would have been more difficult with any other tool unless you have small hands). With the wheel well panel off I was able to get at the banjo end without any trouble and it came off right away. Again as others mentioned, it takes a 24 mm socket. Based on what others have written (thanks to all that contribute here) I started the installation at the banjo end and probably fiddled with it for a couple of minutes before the bolt threads engaged. Just as a hint (maybe more detailed than what others indicated) drop the new hose from the top down the side of the engine and then bring the banjo end somewhat close to where it goes into the power steering pump. Under the car, hold the banjo bolt with the thread up, slip the first copper washer on, put the bolt into the banjo and then slip the second copper washer onto the bolt. Now push the entire works up into the power steering pump hole and turn the bolt by hand until the thread catches. Once I hand threaded the bolt in I was able to get to it with a torque wrench and a 24 mm socket, then torqued it according to spec, which is 37 to 50 ft-lbs. At the midpoint, as someone else here had recommended, I used two cable ties threaded through a slot in the original bracket part, still left on the engine, to keep the new hose away from the heat. The second issue I ran into is the top flange connection as it was hard to thread all the way in and get tight enough to hold pressure. I finally had to back it out, put some lubricant (plumbing grease) on the threads before I was able to finally get it tight enough to stop from leaking. To test for leakage and to also get the air out of the system, start the engine and with the wheels still off the ground turn the steering back and forth. A quality 14 mm flare nut wrench is a must to get this connection tight without damaging the flare nut. As far as the buzzing noise that others have mentioned, this car had it before the hose was replaced and still has it after the new Edelmann hose was installed. My suspicion is that the power steering pump is the source of it, however, as long as it provides its function I'm not going to worry about it. I hope this additional info will help others.

Anyone know the tap size needed for the pump where the banjo bolt connects? My dumbass cross threaded the darn thing (just at the end of it) and I don't want to have to replace the entire thing.

That banjo bolt is such a PITA that I lost my ability to think rationally when I thought I "may" have gotten it aligned, but I wasn't sure.

Doesn't matter, otherwise therés should be a mark on the bolt .

MWM, I miked the copper washer (from the original hose) and it measures 16 mm ID so my guess is that the tap is either that size or slightly smaller, maybe 15 mm to have some clearance for the washer. I don't think the washer fit that tight on the bolt so i'd start with a 15 mm thread restorer. I can't tell you the thread pitch as my tap and die set stops at 13 mm and that size uses a 1.5 mm pitch. Most auto parts stores should have a good selection of thread restorers to choose from and you probably only need no more than these two sizes. Good luck and let us know what you ended up doing and what size you ended up using.

Ughh this just happened to me last night, now I need to know if the socket for the Banjo bolt is a 23mm or 24mm. I saw both sizes listed in this thread, thanks.

Joe, I had the bolt measured and it's 16mm, 1.5 gauge. Problem is, I can't find ANYONE who actually carries a 16mm tap. Even expensive sets generally only go up to 12mm. I've been to every hardware and auto parts store around. Guess I'll just have to buy one online.

I should be able to drive the car if take the PS belt off, correct? I don't think this should hurt anything.

Monte, it's a 24mm. Uh.... good luck. Don't be a dumbass and cross thread the darn thing like I did.

Just FYI, if you have excessive leaks, takes up to 3 days for all of the fluid to drip off the surrounding area (makes you think it still leaking after replaced the hose) ... mine completely stop leaking after exactly 3 days , the leak was really bad, and spray the fluid every where, it condensed inside the wells , tube etc...

Well, I finally have to admit defeat. I did it to myself by losing my patience. I found the right tap but had a hard time getting it worked in to the pump to clean things up. After doing the best I could I tried to thread the bolt by itself and was able to get it to catch and hand tighten it a little bit. It even looked pretty close to straight.

So I started back at getting the bolt, hose, and washers lined up and connected to the hose. I was able to get it to catch like when it was just the bolt. But after a few turns with the ratchet it began to feel like it wasn't in there right. At this point I figured I was screwed either way so just tightened it as best I could hoping by some miracle it was in there right.

I got the top and middle connected and filled the reservoir. It began to drip from the banjo bolt immediately at a fast pace. I knew bleeding was a waste, and as soon as I started the car it began to almost pour out.

I'm just going to have to replace the pump at this point and that's a repair I won't even attempt.

This sucks, but it's a good lesson. I'm the guy who never touched much of anything a couple of years ago. I've learned to do about everything myself and have actually done some pretty complicated repairs. This is the first time I wasn't able to get it done and messed it up. Not a cheap lesson.

Sorry to hear about your defeat MWM. Just think of this event as a negative blip that hopefully sums into an overall good average as you continue to tally points on the positive side with each successful repair. You also gained additional experience that will help you on future jobs. Good luck,

Joe

Make sure to prime the power steering pump with fluid and fill the new H.P. hose with fluid, otherwise when you turn it on you could damage the pump and the bearing will whine. I am speaking from experience. It is a costly procedure for a shop, mainly because the hose is so expensive, due to the sensor. I did it myself, it was easy, but the pump ran for maybe a second or two with very little fluid and no I hear a whine while I drive.

Ok guys I'm new. I did the valve cover, coil, and plug swap yesterday. It took about 2.5 hrs. Got all of my parts from Dave B. South Point Nissan. Ordered the ps hose today.

Got ps hose today. Going to attempt today.

I decided to take the day off since we are having a day in the 70's and 80's vs 107 to tackle this job, boy you fella's that complained about lining up that dam* Banja bolt were not lying. It took me ions to get that dam* thing lined up, I was losing my patience and about to say F it and have it towed someplace. After some more time and fidling it finally matched up, I see why some and repair shops charge so much labor for this. If it were not for that bolt this would be a 30-45 min. job with ease.

Replaced mine yesterday.
 

For the most part, replacing it wasn't bad at all, thanks to all the helpful information on this board. I don't think I would have tried it had it otherwise.

What I thought would be the easiest part turned out to be the most difficult, removing the sensor from the old hose. I think if I had the proper tool(open end wrench), it would have been easy.

The job took about 2 hours to complete from start to finish. Could have finished 30 minutes sooner though.

I got this replaced by a friend who's a mechanic yesterday.. I'd say it took about 2 hours.. Just a PITA cuz of fitment

Ugh, I hope you're wrong about this. If you are right though, I damaged my bearing on the ps pump as well. I guess I get to see how long a ps pump with a damaged bearing will last now.:banghead:

High pressure hose for power steering
 

I have 183,000 miles and found that the high pressure power steering is pouring not leaking. I just got the Edelmann hose but it does not come with the pressure switch. Does the pressure switch screw off of the OE hose. And is it reusable?

Yes, the pressure hose switch is reuseable and it does come off (screw off) with an appropriate size open end wrench or deep socket that can accommodate the back end without damage. You must obviously detach the electrical connection before removal.

Joe

im glad i found this thread because for the past few weeks i've had ps fluid leak all over my drive way and had to refill with ps fluid once a week. looks like i'll be ordering a new hose very soon. quick question: do you absolutely have to raise the engine to tackle this job?

No you do not. But you will need to remove the front right wheel, the panel inside the wheel well, and raise the car to gain better access to the banjo. See my earlier post on this page.

Joe;)

OK, so the edelman hose is out...anyone try the gates? If it doesnt work, looks like the consensus is to go with OEM.

had my done today, i paid $40 my mech's great!

2000 Gates hose on 2002 Maxima
 

Took it to mechanic and replaced hose on 2002 Maxima. Got home, looked under the hood and noticed the new hose looks like the Gates model for 2000 Maxima.

Anyone know if this will cause any problems?

Replaced my PS pressure hose today with the Gates one, wich is basically the same as the Edelmann.
I had a helluva time getting the metal tubing that connects to the top end of the hose. Using a flare nut wrench, the nut was hardly moving. Soaked it with PB Blaster and let sit for a few minutes, but that still didn't do the trick. I ended up stripping the nut and had to use a vise grip to get it off and to put it back on the new hose.
The sensor was a similar story. You can't use a socket to get it off due to some metal ring around it. It looks like it would take a 19mm open wrench, which I did not have, so operation vise grip again.
My banjo bolt is also 24mm, not 23mm as someone mentioned at the beginning of this thread.
To install the banjo bolt and washers, I put two tiny drops of Crazy Glue to one of the washers and stuck it to the side of the end connector that goes against the pump housing. That way it wouldn't fall off while I handle the banjo bolt along with the other washer.
Playing it safe, I followed Maxgen5's "dead bleed/live bleed" technique. However, I'm not sure it is just my imagination becasue of previous commnets about it, but after the install I do hear a slightly louder buzzing than what I used to hear before. Hopefully it would go away completely or I will eventually get used to hear it.

Going to replace this but how do i disconnect the top part of the hose on the left side where its metal on metal, does it screw off or something?

If you're talking about the part where there is a nut, with some of the thread visible, that connects the metal tubing to the top end of the PS hose, yes, it does screw off.
You might want to read, at least, most of this entire thread, so you are prepared in case you face some hiccups along your way to replace the hose.