P0455 -- EVAP large leak detected
09-23-2007, 10:13 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 52
P0455 -- EVAP large leak detected
My check engine light came on yesterday. I went to Autozone and got the code. It's P0455.
"Explanation
The ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP system during a system monitor test.
Probable Causes
1. Defective, loose or missing fuel cap
2. EVAP canister broke, hosr cracked or not connected
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective
4. Vacuum leak at engine."
What can I check? I don't think it's #1. I didn't even get gas yesterday.
"Explanation
The ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP system during a system monitor test.
Probable Causes
1. Defective, loose or missing fuel cap
2. EVAP canister broke, hosr cracked or not connected
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective
4. Vacuum leak at engine."
What can I check? I don't think it's #1. I didn't even get gas yesterday.
09-24-2007, 08:48 AM
#2
yeah i had a same code a while back. it turned out to be the gas cap although i didn't purchase any that week. its a small fix. you might as well start small and work your way up. it cost me $18 i think from nissan for a new gas cap. also do you have a habit of "topping" your gas tank off when you fill up? i was told by the service manager at nissan that excess gas can go into the canister and cause it to throw that light? not sure if thats true or not but it could be a possibility.
09-24-2007, 02:57 PM
#3
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Location: Greater Bridgeport / The Valley, CT
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I have the same problem with my car, it doesnt seem to affect my mpg or performance, so I just keep resetting the ECU. After I reset it, it doesn't show up again for a week or so. It seems like it gets triggered when I have 3/4 gas left in the tank, because if I reset the ECU, it doesnt show up again until next fill up and about 100 miles in. I've already replaced the gas cap, and that doesn't seem to be the problem, I think its something more serious with me, the system doesn't seem to be pressurized anymore, when I open the gas cap i don't have that "Pshh" rush of air sound anymore.
This sucks because the dealer said I need to have a smoke-test done where they fill the system with a nitrogen gas and than check to see where it leaks. I have a warranty on my car, but they said cuz it's an extended warranty, they won't know if it's covered until after they do the test. and the test costs 150$. ****ing stealership!
This sucks because the dealer said I need to have a smoke-test done where they fill the system with a nitrogen gas and than check to see where it leaks. I have a warranty on my car, but they said cuz it's an extended warranty, they won't know if it's covered until after they do the test. and the test costs 150$. ****ing stealership!
09-25-2007, 07:44 PM
#5
I would check #3 vent solenoid defective. It's a common problem, soleniod is located on canister under trunk drivers side. Selenoid freezes due to rust, just clean and lube it. There are many posts on this subject.
09-26-2007, 02:44 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
do you hear air rushing when you take the cap off to fill it?
look for broken or missing hoses
try replacing the cap with a brand new 1 from the dealer
its cheap enough and a fine place to start
aftermarket caps may cause the ses light to come on
09-26-2007, 03:40 PM
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 30
Aftermarket gas caps made for the Maxima are acceptable you do not need to go to the dealer. It is also unlikely the gas cap will complete the fix, but worth the attempt. When the SES light returns you can look into the solenoid valve as the next suspect.
The solenoid valve that gives most people fits is the Evap Canister Vent Control Valve. At least on a 5.5 gen you will also get a DTC 1488 in addition to the DTC 0455. This second code makes it more certain there is a problem with the Evap Canister Vent Control Valve. The canister and valve are under the car on driver side next to fuel tank and tire. To remove the canister with the Evap Canister Vent Control Valve you need to remove 2 10mm hex bolts, 2 or 3 hoses and an electrical connection. Rust makes the solenoid valve flaky. I seemed to have achieved a fix by spraying the valve (without removing it from the canister) with brake cleaner and then with spray silicone lubricant. This seems to restore consistent operation of the valve which you can confirm if you have a 12VDC source by applying the power source across the solenoid valve terminals (positive on the left, negative on the right with valve connector on top - normal mounted position). The valve should close immediately with an audible snap each time you apply power and should stay closed as long as power is applied.
The solenoid valve that gives most people fits is the Evap Canister Vent Control Valve. At least on a 5.5 gen you will also get a DTC 1488 in addition to the DTC 0455. This second code makes it more certain there is a problem with the Evap Canister Vent Control Valve. The canister and valve are under the car on driver side next to fuel tank and tire. To remove the canister with the Evap Canister Vent Control Valve you need to remove 2 10mm hex bolts, 2 or 3 hoses and an electrical connection. Rust makes the solenoid valve flaky. I seemed to have achieved a fix by spraying the valve (without removing it from the canister) with brake cleaner and then with spray silicone lubricant. This seems to restore consistent operation of the valve which you can confirm if you have a 12VDC source by applying the power source across the solenoid valve terminals (positive on the left, negative on the right with valve connector on top - normal mounted position). The valve should close immediately with an audible snap each time you apply power and should stay closed as long as power is applied.
09-28-2007, 09:13 PM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 109
My car was showing the SES light intermittently, but repeatedly, over the last few months. It turned out to be both the 0455 code (gross evap leak) and 1456 (very small evap leak).
I thought it was most likely the gas cap, and was planning to replace that. However, figuring there was nothing to lose, I wondered whether I could find anything wrong with the old cap.
So, I took the old one off and started looking. I found out that a powdery white deposit had built up under the rubber sealing ring. I carefully removed the ring (which has a split cross-section - more like a "U"-ring than an O-ring) and cleaned both the ring and the mating plastic seat on the gas cap with alcohol and Q-tips, then put everything back together.
That was a week ago, and I checked the codes again tonight: 0000, no problem. Apparently, depending on just how the gas cap was put on after any particular fuelling stop. the air leakage through that powdery stuff was enough to trigger one or the other fault code.
So, YMMV, but it looks like that worked for me and it's a virtually no-cost fix that takes about 15 minutes. Just be very careful when removing the sealing ring - you don't want to tear it or gouge it. Also, if you put scratches or gouges into the plastic body of the gas cap where the ring is supposed to seal, you will create a leak even if there wasn't one already. Use a small, blunt tool - preferably made of of plastic - to remove the ring. If you have to use something like a screwdriver, be really gentle and cautious not to scratch anything.
Good luck.
I thought it was most likely the gas cap, and was planning to replace that. However, figuring there was nothing to lose, I wondered whether I could find anything wrong with the old cap.
So, I took the old one off and started looking. I found out that a powdery white deposit had built up under the rubber sealing ring. I carefully removed the ring (which has a split cross-section - more like a "U"-ring than an O-ring) and cleaned both the ring and the mating plastic seat on the gas cap with alcohol and Q-tips, then put everything back together.
That was a week ago, and I checked the codes again tonight: 0000, no problem. Apparently, depending on just how the gas cap was put on after any particular fuelling stop. the air leakage through that powdery stuff was enough to trigger one or the other fault code.
So, YMMV, but it looks like that worked for me and it's a virtually no-cost fix that takes about 15 minutes. Just be very careful when removing the sealing ring - you don't want to tear it or gouge it. Also, if you put scratches or gouges into the plastic body of the gas cap where the ring is supposed to seal, you will create a leak even if there wasn't one already. Use a small, blunt tool - preferably made of of plastic - to remove the ring. If you have to use something like a screwdriver, be really gentle and cautious not to scratch anything.
Good luck.
10-01-2007, 06:30 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 28
davemac...thanks for the advise. I have both those codes and it's been 2 days and no CEL. I removed the valve and lubricated it. I did not replace the gas cap. Prior to this I would clear the CEL and it would come back after a day of driving so we'll see.
rt
rt
10-07-2007, 09:46 PM
#14
I had the p0455 code once, it was simply my gas cap being loose. The plastic tether cable thing got wrapped around the threads of the cap and it didn't seal correctly. Check out the easy stuff before you get too worried!
10-08-2007, 07:36 PM
#15
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 109
The bad news about what I posted is that 4 days after I posted last week, the SES light came on, again with code P1456 (very small evap leak).
So apparently my "fix" was more random luck than anything else. Sorry. I thought I was so smart by waiting a week before declaring victory!
When the code reappeared I ended up doing a lot more investigation. I now believe the problem was a crack in the evap canister, in the area where the evap vent valve is mounted. I replaced both of those last week. I just returned from a 900 mile trip over the weekend. So far, no codes.
And I am feeling like an idiot because I took all of this apart and replaced it without realizing that it should be covered by the emissions warranty. So I spent several hours crawling under the car, getting dirt from the underbody in my eyes, and spent $300+ on parts, doing work I could have had done under warranty. Dumbass! Well, if the same code comes up again, off to the dealer it goes.
So apparently my "fix" was more random luck than anything else. Sorry. I thought I was so smart by waiting a week before declaring victory!
When the code reappeared I ended up doing a lot more investigation. I now believe the problem was a crack in the evap canister, in the area where the evap vent valve is mounted. I replaced both of those last week. I just returned from a 900 mile trip over the weekend. So far, no codes.
And I am feeling like an idiot because I took all of this apart and replaced it without realizing that it should be covered by the emissions warranty. So I spent several hours crawling under the car, getting dirt from the underbody in my eyes, and spent $300+ on parts, doing work I could have had done under warranty. Dumbass! Well, if the same code comes up again, off to the dealer it goes.
10-16-2007, 02:22 PM
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greater Bridgeport / The Valley, CT
Posts: 333
tried the cleaning fix... went about 100 miles without a code. than flashed up again. So than I cleaned it again, and added gun-oil to the rubber seal to improve air-tightness. So far 300 miles and no code.
(By gun oil I mean I have this oil for my paintball gun... I lubricate all the rubber seals with it, and moving parts, so I thought i'd give it a try on my gas cap, seems to work well)
(By gun oil I mean I have this oil for my paintball gun... I lubricate all the rubber seals with it, and moving parts, so I thought i'd give it a try on my gas cap, seems to work well)
10-16-2007, 03:24 PM
#18
And I am feeling like an idiot because I took all of this apart and replaced it without realizing that it should be covered by the emissions warranty. So I spent several hours crawling under the car, getting dirt from the underbody in my eyes, and spent $300+ on parts, doing work I could have had done under warranty. Dumbass! Well, if the same code comes up again, off to the dealer it goes.
10-16-2007, 08:52 PM
#19
I had these exact codes come on in my Max. It turned out the gas cap wasn't seated properly. I believe it still doesn't release the gush of air when I get to the pump so I think I need to replace it. The light went away as soon as I removed and replaced the cap and has not returned.
10-17-2007, 04:23 PM
#20
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 109
I wrote that based on what the parts guy at the dealer told me when I bought the new parts.
Your question made me look at the warranty coverage booklet and I'm not so sure. (Wouldn't be the first case of misinformation from the dealer.)
For my car (MA registration) the California emission warranty applies. This covers some parts up to 7 yrs / 70k miles. However, the evap canister does not appear to be such a covered component. All other parts are only covered for 3 yrs / 50k miles, which I'd be long past.
If you don't live in a state that requires the CA warranty, then you would have the Federal warranty which is 3 yrs / 36k miles for most parts, and the ECM and cat converter for 8 / 80k. (That applies for CA warranty too, of course.)
I hate to say RTM, but... you'll have to RTM to get the details.
Your question made me look at the warranty coverage booklet and I'm not so sure. (Wouldn't be the first case of misinformation from the dealer.)
For my car (MA registration) the California emission warranty applies. This covers some parts up to 7 yrs / 70k miles. However, the evap canister does not appear to be such a covered component. All other parts are only covered for 3 yrs / 50k miles, which I'd be long past.
If you don't live in a state that requires the CA warranty, then you would have the Federal warranty which is 3 yrs / 36k miles for most parts, and the ECM and cat converter for 8 / 80k. (That applies for CA warranty too, of course.)
I hate to say RTM, but... you'll have to RTM to get the details.
10-17-2007, 06:00 PM
#21
i've had several cases where the evap canister (black box) cracked. I am not sure what the cause of the damage was but in all of the instances, it set off a evap leak (large) code, aftyer replacement, code did not come back. I was happy, customer was happy, its all good.
10-17-2007, 06:07 PM
#22
I wrote that based on what the parts guy at the dealer told me when I bought the new parts.
Your question made me look at the warranty coverage booklet and I'm not so sure. (Wouldn't be the first case of misinformation from the dealer.)
For my car (MA registration) the California emission warranty applies. This covers some parts up to 7 yrs / 70k miles. However, the evap canister does not appear to be such a covered component. All other parts are only covered for 3 yrs / 50k miles, which I'd be long past.
If you don't live in a state that requires the CA warranty, then you would have the Federal warranty which is 3 yrs / 36k miles for most parts, and the ECM and cat converter for 8 / 80k. (That applies for CA warranty too, of course.)
I hate to say RTM, but... you'll have to RTM to get the details.
Your question made me look at the warranty coverage booklet and I'm not so sure. (Wouldn't be the first case of misinformation from the dealer.)
For my car (MA registration) the California emission warranty applies. This covers some parts up to 7 yrs / 70k miles. However, the evap canister does not appear to be such a covered component. All other parts are only covered for 3 yrs / 50k miles, which I'd be long past.
If you don't live in a state that requires the CA warranty, then you would have the Federal warranty which is 3 yrs / 36k miles for most parts, and the ECM and cat converter for 8 / 80k. (That applies for CA warranty too, of course.)
I hate to say RTM, but... you'll have to RTM to get the details.
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