Alternator install - same Alt. for all years?
 

Hey all,

I need to replace my alternator, and I found a cheap one on ebay, but it is off a 04 - does anyone know if it will bolt right up? Also, do the 04's have a higher Amp rating? I am running 3 amps, cap, tv, computer, ps2, coffee maker, ezbake oven, toaster, etc. lol. So I'd like something with a bit higher rating.

Thanks for the help in advance. :)

Not sure check the FSM of each. I know on ebay, there is a store called Iraggi Alternators or some sort. They make aftermarket high amperage alternators for most vehicles on the road today. They bolt up just like the factory one did.

I misread his post, which is what the edit button is for Mr. Perfect. If you don't have anything to contribute please don't post. I don't want to make any enemies on this board and I will edit my sig. I apologize.

Atleast he didnt say it was gay like everything else.

:laugh:
please show proof of your statement that i call everything gay

I dont feel like looking it up but will give examples.

1. I pointed out that taking an air chisel to you locking lug nut might mess up the stud.
2. I at one point had motul 600 in my sig.

Ive looked at other peoples sig. and see stuff like

93 octane,/ 5w30 oil, tints

While I might not always be right I try and give some advice and point in some direction. Unlike posts that just say GAY !

you said, "screw the stud" and i replied with :007:
so one post = ALWAYS
what does sigs have to do with anything :gotme:

so how bout those alternators?

Didnt come up with anything conclusive. Both are rated @110amps but have different types

lg1110-720 hitachi
tg12c014 valeo

Thats comparing 2002 fsm compared to a 2006 fsm

That's like the people on other car forum who list the number of layers of Zaino in their sig. http://www.scottwax.com/rice/videos/.../kekekegay.gif

Silvermax-usually best to go with the correct year model alternator, like others have pointed out, you can find higher amp versions.

soonerfan-Feel free to use these as you wish...

http://www.scottwax.com/rice/videos/smilies/Hay.gif
http://www.scottwax.com/rice/videos/.../gayfight2.gif
http://www.scottwax.com/rice/videos/smilies/gayhay.gif

You have to be running a VERY involved system to actually require an increased-amperage alternator. Get an OEM one then come to the audio forum to find out what you should CORRECTLY do to maintain good current for your system.

Hmm, ok - I guess I'll shell out the money for the alt for my year. I see some on there that have been rebuilt to put out 160amps - maybe I'll try that out. I just do not feel like having the same problem a years down the line.

As long as you buy a remanufactured alt from a trusted source with a warranty you shouldn't have an issue. But, like I said, you do not need to spend extra money for increased amperage. I highly doubt your system warrants it.

I just had to replace my alt - costed me roughly $190 for a prostart with a limited lifetime warranty. Got it from Pep Boys.

If you don't have the car propery wired up to power your MaxtorHome you will have the same problem again. You have gone to the expence of putting all that crap into the car-spent a bit more so it will power correctly. Follow djfrestl's advise and go to a forum or take the car to a GOOD auto electric or stereo shop. And NO the alt's are not the same for all the years.

I don't think I fully understand how my wiring can be the culprit. I'm not a novice when it comes to wiring - all my connections are soldered and shrink wrapped. I did all the work myself - they are quality components, and installed professionally. If I have all my electronics on at once, and stereo at max, (which I often do) it may be pulling out more then the Alt and replenish. Can you explain your theory on how my wiring is the cause?

If you have all these accesories that you claim, they are a big drain on the system. You cannot just find a "hot " wire and solder it in, you should be running a battery isolator and a seperate deep cycle battery to power all the add ons. This would allow them to run them on a seperate circuit, with a seperate power source, keeping the alt. from over heating (which leads to early death). Hope this help's.

Battery isolators and extra batteries are not necessary, and I highly doubt the OP just spliced 'anywhere' to make runs for his amps.

Start with upgrading your Big 3.

Simply put, use 1/0 awg wire to make runs from:
1. Battery negative to chassis
2. Battery negative to engine
3. Alt positive to battery positive.

#3 requires an inline fuse for safety purposes.

Yeah, I spent good money on an Optima yellow top deep cycle battery last year - Not about to buy another. And no - I did not just splice anywhere - I have 0 gauge right from the Batt to the fuse, then to the trunk where it hits the cap, then to the Amps.

I've Been meaning to do this suggestion for some time now - I suppose now is a good of time as any.

Thanks for all the help guys :)

No problem. Upgrading that, and sometimes doing some extra grounding, will always help with capacity issues from your electrical and charging system. Your lights will not dim as much and you may even feel your car running/idling juuust slightly better. Upgrading to a yellow top was also a good move.