Thinking of buying a 5th/5.5 Gen? Please post all questions and info here....
#961
#962
I know this is a Maxima forum but if you're considering buying a 5-5.5 gen Maxima, you also might want to consider the '03/04 G35 sedans (assuming you need 4 doors) because the prices aren't far apart. And G35 owners tend to keep their cars up better than Maxima owners. Some of the same issues like oil consumption and cam/crank position sensors but the turning radius is a lot better, interior is nicer, styling to me is a wash (always liked the 5.5 gen Maxima's) and with the 6 speed, the shifter is significantly better.
Around here, you can find an 03/04 G35 sedan in the $3500-5000 range depending on mileage and condition. The selection of Maxima's is getting pretty bad, seen just one 6 speed car pop up in the last 4-5 months but several G35 sedans with the 6MT.
Around here, you can find an 03/04 G35 sedan in the $3500-5000 range depending on mileage and condition. The selection of Maxima's is getting pretty bad, seen just one 6 speed car pop up in the last 4-5 months but several G35 sedans with the 6MT.
#963
Thinking of buying
This guy posted this maxima for sale saying that the radiator core support has been replaced (because they are notorious for rusting according to him) it has about 240K miles.
Worth buying still??? I'd like to get into maximas and familiarize with them
He also included a youtube video for the car
Worth buying still??? I'd like to get into maximas and familiarize with them
He also included a youtube video for the car
#964
This guy posted this maxima for sale saying that the radiator core support has been replaced (because they are notorious for rusting according to him) it has about 240K miles.
Worth buying still??? I'd like to get into maximas and familiarize with them
He also included a youtube video for the car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2DntibsXh0
Worth buying still??? I'd like to get into maximas and familiarize with them
He also included a youtube video for the car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2DntibsXh0
#965
Opinions please!
I have the option to purchase a Maxima from a family friend for about $1,500. It has always been garaged. For half of its life it was in Colorado and the other in central Texas.
I am trying to figure out what questions to ask or information on what pitfalls I might encounter with a 2000 Maxima.
These are the details I know:
2000 Nissan Maxima SE, 3.0 liter, 24 valve, 5 speed manual
112,000 miles
No transmission issues
No check engine light
I do know that all 6 coils are new, one for each cylinder
New battery 8/20/2017
I am currently driving a 2000 Camry with 205,000 miles and know the car that I have. I am just tempted by a low cost, lower mileage vehicle.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
C.
I am trying to figure out what questions to ask or information on what pitfalls I might encounter with a 2000 Maxima.
These are the details I know:
2000 Nissan Maxima SE, 3.0 liter, 24 valve, 5 speed manual
112,000 miles
No transmission issues
No check engine light
I do know that all 6 coils are new, one for each cylinder
New battery 8/20/2017
I am currently driving a 2000 Camry with 205,000 miles and know the car that I have. I am just tempted by a low cost, lower mileage vehicle.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
C.
#966
Is $3,900 a good price for a 2002
Hi I'm on the verge of buying a 2002 max with about 80k miles on it . I had it inspected by a mechanic and he says everything looks good to go but the guys selling it wants $3,900 and will not budge not sure if I should pay that much on a 15 year old car. Lemme know that you think
#967
Ask for maintenance records but a $3900 price on an 80K well maintained and immaculate 5.5g is acceptable.
www.vehiclehistory.com .. run the VIN to see if there's any spots.
www.vehiclehistory.com .. run the VIN to see if there's any spots.
#968
I have the option to purchase a Maxima from a family friend for about $1,500. It has always been garaged. For half of its life it was in Colorado and the other in central Texas.
I am trying to figure out what questions to ask or information on what pitfalls I might encounter with a 2000 Maxima.
These are the details I know:
2000 Nissan Maxima SE, 3.0 liter, 24 valve, 5 speed manual
112,000 miles
No transmission issues
No check engine light
I do know that all 6 coils are new, one for each cylinder
New battery 8/20/2017
I am currently driving a 2000 Camry with 205,000 miles and know the car that I have. I am just tempted by a low cost, lower mileage vehicle.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
C.
I am trying to figure out what questions to ask or information on what pitfalls I might encounter with a 2000 Maxima.
These are the details I know:
2000 Nissan Maxima SE, 3.0 liter, 24 valve, 5 speed manual
112,000 miles
No transmission issues
No check engine light
I do know that all 6 coils are new, one for each cylinder
New battery 8/20/2017
I am currently driving a 2000 Camry with 205,000 miles and know the car that I have. I am just tempted by a low cost, lower mileage vehicle.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
C.
www.vehiclehistory.com .. run the VIN to see if there's anything hiding.
#972
Is there a mileage that Maximas just shouldn’t be expexted to run past?
im looking for an inexpensive car for my son in high school.
I drive a 2000 max, and owned a 1995 before that.
There’s a local 2002 maxima GLE that (pics alone) looks like it’s ok.
The seller says it runs rough (skips). Needs ignition coils.
If it’s just coils, plugs I’ll fix it.
What other high mileage problems should I look for?
Or should I NOT get a max with 290K miles?
im looking for an inexpensive car for my son in high school.
I drive a 2000 max, and owned a 1995 before that.
There’s a local 2002 maxima GLE that (pics alone) looks like it’s ok.
The seller says it runs rough (skips). Needs ignition coils.
If it’s just coils, plugs I’ll fix it.
What other high mileage problems should I look for?
Or should I NOT get a max with 290K miles?
#973
Is there a mileage that Maximas just shouldn’t be expexted to run past?
im looking for an inexpensive car for my son in high school.
I drive a 2000 max, and owned a 1995 before that.
There’s a local 2002 maxima GLE that (pics alone) looks like it’s ok.
The seller says it runs rough (skips). Needs ignition coils.
If it’s just coils, plugs I’ll fix it.
What other high mileage problems should I look for?
Or should I NOT get a max with 290K miles?
im looking for an inexpensive car for my son in high school.
I drive a 2000 max, and owned a 1995 before that.
There’s a local 2002 maxima GLE that (pics alone) looks like it’s ok.
The seller says it runs rough (skips). Needs ignition coils.
If it’s just coils, plugs I’ll fix it.
What other high mileage problems should I look for?
Or should I NOT get a max with 290K miles?
#974
5speed to 6 speed
Just got a 00 max with 5 speed that needs a trans as 1/2 are not working. Having a rough time locating a trans for it and was wondering if anyone ever did a swap and knows how difficult it would be and if its possible to put the 6 speed trans in the vq30???
Last edited by 00Max420; 04-04-2019 at 04:58 AM.
#975
I need so advice
an 00-01 infiniti would be an I30 with the VQ30 3.0 liter engine, which is known to be a very solid engine, but the cars in general are older and other parts may be more worn than the alternative...
the 02-03 would be an infiniti I35 with a VQ35 3.5 liter engine, which is more powerful, but is more prone to having oil burning problems due to bad piston rings.. (by the way, maximas of these years have the same respective engines as the infinities).. most people (including myself) don't mind adding oil every now and then for the added performance you get with the 3.5.. so it's a trade off, but it's up to you what is more important.. an older car with higher mileage, you're taking a bigger chance on more parts being worn than a newer car of the same model.. however, some older cars have been well taken care of and are very reliable
i realized i pretty much just talked in a circle there, but.. lol.. in my opinion.. you should be safe with a 5th gen (00-01) with under 100k that is in good condition because they are pretty reliable cars.. but if you can afford it, then go with a newer one in good condition to decrease your chances of stuff going wrong.. if you need help with a problem, us maxima experts are always here!
the 02-03 would be an infiniti I35 with a VQ35 3.5 liter engine, which is more powerful, but is more prone to having oil burning problems due to bad piston rings.. (by the way, maximas of these years have the same respective engines as the infinities).. most people (including myself) don't mind adding oil every now and then for the added performance you get with the 3.5.. so it's a trade off, but it's up to you what is more important.. an older car with higher mileage, you're taking a bigger chance on more parts being worn than a newer car of the same model.. however, some older cars have been well taken care of and are very reliable
i realized i pretty much just talked in a circle there, but.. lol.. in my opinion.. you should be safe with a 5th gen (00-01) with under 100k that is in good condition because they are pretty reliable cars.. but if you can afford it, then go with a newer one in good condition to decrease your chances of stuff going wrong.. if you need help with a problem, us maxima experts are always here!
#977
Hello everyone! Newbie here, long story short im here bc i love Maximas (imagine that). I learned to drive in a 93 Maxima, bought my dads 97 Maxima off of him and bought myself a 2000 Maxima after that. They were my first cars and consequently became my first loves. Now im an "adult" and i drive a CRV and have a car payment to which i say poo-poo but hey, it is what it is.
Anyway, im looking to re-kindle my love for Maximas and buy a 02-03 (5.5 gens are my fave) and im looking for some insight on rebuilding/repair + maintaining and eventually tuning. I got rid of my 2000 bc of general repair costs and rust (i live in the North East, rust sucks) and i regret it. Im aware of some of the common issues with the 5th gen cars as i dealt with them for a number of years but any insight from current 5th gen owners would be much appreciated!
Anyway, im looking to re-kindle my love for Maximas and buy a 02-03 (5.5 gens are my fave) and im looking for some insight on rebuilding/repair + maintaining and eventually tuning. I got rid of my 2000 bc of general repair costs and rust (i live in the North East, rust sucks) and i regret it. Im aware of some of the common issues with the 5th gen cars as i dealt with them for a number of years but any insight from current 5th gen owners would be much appreciated!
Last edited by y0ey; 01-15-2020 at 10:34 AM.
#978
Questions
I originally posted at the NICO forum and was directed here. So forgive me for just pasting in my post from there.
To make a long story short, I'm looking for a budget commuter that I wont hate driving. I'm somewhat partial to Nissan though mostly because I was in love with the Titan from day 1 and briefly owned one (another long story). One of my best friends has a 2017 Altima and absolutely loves it.
So anyway, I came across two 2001 Maximas. Both look like they rolled off the showroom yesterday. They are truly the 2 best looking older cars I've ever seen. The first one is auto with only 92k miles. The other is a manual but it has 180k miles. However, the manual car has new alternator, springs/struts, inner tie rod ends, lower A arms (bushings/ball joints), obviously an alignment, new clutch and flywheel, and a new front valve cover all within the past year according to the seller.
I have a color preference but the winner in that department also come with the auto and I want the manual. Both are asking the auto is listed at $2800 and the stick at $3000. I thought I'd ask the experts which one would be the better buy. If either. I noticed the '02 gets a new engine with a big power bump and the same fuel economy. It would pretty much only get used when it's raining or cold as I prefer to commute in the motorcycle.
Also, if I do get one is there anything I need to know?
To make a long story short, I'm looking for a budget commuter that I wont hate driving. I'm somewhat partial to Nissan though mostly because I was in love with the Titan from day 1 and briefly owned one (another long story). One of my best friends has a 2017 Altima and absolutely loves it.
So anyway, I came across two 2001 Maximas. Both look like they rolled off the showroom yesterday. They are truly the 2 best looking older cars I've ever seen. The first one is auto with only 92k miles. The other is a manual but it has 180k miles. However, the manual car has new alternator, springs/struts, inner tie rod ends, lower A arms (bushings/ball joints), obviously an alignment, new clutch and flywheel, and a new front valve cover all within the past year according to the seller.
I have a color preference but the winner in that department also come with the auto and I want the manual. Both are asking the auto is listed at $2800 and the stick at $3000. I thought I'd ask the experts which one would be the better buy. If either. I noticed the '02 gets a new engine with a big power bump and the same fuel economy. It would pretty much only get used when it's raining or cold as I prefer to commute in the motorcycle.
Also, if I do get one is there anything I need to know?
#979
How's everyone doing with their 5th gen Maxima's these days?
Just curious how everyone is doing with their 5th Gen Max's these days. Looking at a 2002 Max SE 6-speed with 88k miles in Arizona. I have experienced 3rd and 4th gen Max's but never a 5th gen...
#980
I have the same exact car and really like it. 88k is a great mileage for the year. I only drive mine a couple weekends a month now and close to 190k in miles.
#984
New Here, Looking For Information
Hi All:
As the title says I am new here but not new to Nissan automobiles. I can even remember when they were Datsun and I owned a Datsun 240Z and had a lot of fun in that car.
My current car while a decent car is very long in the tooth and I want to replace it before something expensive goes wrong. I have always liked the Nissan Maximas and I am looking at a 2001 Maxima GLE tomorrow and I want to ask if there are any specific things I need to be on the lookout for so I don't buy a nightmare. The car I am looking at has low mileage, 160,000 is in good shape and within the last year the current owner has replaced the starter and alternator, front struts, the brakes and rotors all around, given the car a tune up, replaced the timing chain and a few other items. I have talked with him on the phone and he seems like a decent enough guy and he tells me that the car will need to have the windshield replaced and the driver and passenger lower control arm replaced. I have replaced control arms before so I am not afraid to do that and I can get a windshield put in for approx. $150.
I also have some questions like what kind of oil should I use? In my present car I am using Castrol GTX Hi-Mileage Blend in 5W-30 and having good results. Can I continue to use this oil or is there a different oil I should be looking at for a Maxima?
Also, how about transmission fluid? In my current car I am using Valvoline MaxLife ATF and getting great results in fact better than the OE transmission fluid. Once I get a Maxima can I use the MaxLife or should I stay with the OE fluid?
I have read the reviews (Edmunds, KBB, and others) and they say that the Gen 5 Maxima is a good car but I want to hear from the guys who actually wrench on the car and drive it every day so Gentlemen what can you tell me? Thanks all and have a great week.
As the title says I am new here but not new to Nissan automobiles. I can even remember when they were Datsun and I owned a Datsun 240Z and had a lot of fun in that car.
My current car while a decent car is very long in the tooth and I want to replace it before something expensive goes wrong. I have always liked the Nissan Maximas and I am looking at a 2001 Maxima GLE tomorrow and I want to ask if there are any specific things I need to be on the lookout for so I don't buy a nightmare. The car I am looking at has low mileage, 160,000 is in good shape and within the last year the current owner has replaced the starter and alternator, front struts, the brakes and rotors all around, given the car a tune up, replaced the timing chain and a few other items. I have talked with him on the phone and he seems like a decent enough guy and he tells me that the car will need to have the windshield replaced and the driver and passenger lower control arm replaced. I have replaced control arms before so I am not afraid to do that and I can get a windshield put in for approx. $150.
I also have some questions like what kind of oil should I use? In my present car I am using Castrol GTX Hi-Mileage Blend in 5W-30 and having good results. Can I continue to use this oil or is there a different oil I should be looking at for a Maxima?
Also, how about transmission fluid? In my current car I am using Valvoline MaxLife ATF and getting great results in fact better than the OE transmission fluid. Once I get a Maxima can I use the MaxLife or should I stay with the OE fluid?
I have read the reviews (Edmunds, KBB, and others) and they say that the Gen 5 Maxima is a good car but I want to hear from the guys who actually wrench on the car and drive it every day so Gentlemen what can you tell me? Thanks all and have a great week.
#985
Check for rust on the lower radiator support, rockers, rear wheel arches, rear inner fenders.
On the 00-01, one tiny issue that becomes a BIG problem is the IACV (idle air control valve) leaks coolant. When it gets bad it ruins the sensor and can melt components inside the ECU. It's under the throttle body. Replace ASAP.
A similar issue with the electronic motor mounts (can't remember what years are affected). The mounts can be unplugged.
The rear calipers seize, so can the parking brake cables.
The fluids you listed are fine.
On the 00-01, one tiny issue that becomes a BIG problem is the IACV (idle air control valve) leaks coolant. When it gets bad it ruins the sensor and can melt components inside the ECU. It's under the throttle body. Replace ASAP.
A similar issue with the electronic motor mounts (can't remember what years are affected). The mounts can be unplugged.
The rear calipers seize, so can the parking brake cables.
The fluids you listed are fine.
Last edited by JSutter; 07-19-2021 at 09:46 AM.
#986
Check for rust on the lower radiator support, rockers, rear wheel arches, rear inner fenders.
On the 00-01, one tiny issue that becomes a BIG problem is the IACV (idle air control valve) leaks coolant. When it gets bad it ruins the sensor and can melt components inside the ECU. It's under the throttle body. Replace ASAP.
A similar issue with the electronic motor mounts (can't remember what years are affected). The mounts can be unplugged.
The rear calipers seize, so can the parking brake cables.
The fluids you listed are fine.
On the 00-01, one tiny issue that becomes a BIG problem is the IACV (idle air control valve) leaks coolant. When it gets bad it ruins the sensor and can melt components inside the ECU. It's under the throttle body. Replace ASAP.
A similar issue with the electronic motor mounts (can't remember what years are affected). The mounts can be unplugged.
The rear calipers seize, so can the parking brake cables.
The fluids you listed are fine.
As far as the rear calipers seizing I am guessing you are talking about the pistons seizing in the caliper bores. Am I right on this?? Is there anything I can do to hold this off or prevent it? In my current car I am using the Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic LMA brake fluid and if I buy this car I plan to flush the brakes and fill the system up with the same Valvoline Brake Fluid. With regards to the Parking Brake Cables can I lube them with something like White Lithium Grease to prevent this? Unfortunately we have state inspections where I live and sadly the inspections are useless and a bad joke. The only reason my state even has them is as a money maker. Parking Brakes are an easy target for the vultures who do state inspections.
Two questions I forgot to ask earlier: 1) What kind of anti-freeze/coolant should I be using in the 01 Maxima. The factory spec for my current car called for Red but when I bought it the engine had Green in it and I change the anti-freeze/coolant every 2 years and have stayed with Green and have had no problems at all
My 2nd question is about fuel. If I remember correctly Nissan says to use Premium for the Maxima but how critical is that? In the 240Z I owned 30 years ago I ran Regular and about once a month I put a tank of Premium in and the car ran fine. In the Honda SI Prelude I had I ran Mid-Grade most of the time and again the car did fine so how closely do I need to listen to what Nissan is saying about this? Thanks again.
#987
@JSutter Thanks for your great response I will keep an eye out for these things. The Owner said the car was tuned up and I have a feeling it was spark plugs and maybe an air filter but I did ask him about the Throttle Body and he said that was cleaned out with Throttle Body Cleaner and a soft toothbrush and rags so I hope that takes care of the IACV issue.
As far as the rear calipers seizing I am guessing you are talking about the pistons seizing in the caliper bores. Am I right on this?? Is there anything I can do to hold this off or prevent it? In my current car I am using the Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic LMA brake fluid and if I buy this car I plan to flush the brakes and fill the system up with the same Valvoline Brake Fluid. With regards to the Parking Brake Cables can I lube them with something like White Lithium Grease to prevent this? Unfortunately we have state inspections where I live and sadly the inspections are useless and a bad joke. The only reason my state even has them is as a money maker. Parking Brakes are an easy target for the vultures who do state inspections.
Two questions I forgot to ask earlier: 1) What kind of anti-freeze/coolant should I be using in the 01 Maxima. The factory spec for my current car called for Red but when I bought it the engine had Green in it and I change the anti-freeze/coolant every 2 years and have stayed with Green and have had no problems at all
My 2nd question is about fuel. If I remember correctly Nissan says to use Premium for the Maxima but how critical is that? In the 240Z I owned 30 years ago I ran Regular and about once a month I put a tank of Premium in and the car ran fine. In the Honda SI Prelude I had I ran Mid-Grade most of the time and again the car did fine so how closely do I need to listen to what Nissan is saying about this? Thanks again.
As far as the rear calipers seizing I am guessing you are talking about the pistons seizing in the caliper bores. Am I right on this?? Is there anything I can do to hold this off or prevent it? In my current car I am using the Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic LMA brake fluid and if I buy this car I plan to flush the brakes and fill the system up with the same Valvoline Brake Fluid. With regards to the Parking Brake Cables can I lube them with something like White Lithium Grease to prevent this? Unfortunately we have state inspections where I live and sadly the inspections are useless and a bad joke. The only reason my state even has them is as a money maker. Parking Brakes are an easy target for the vultures who do state inspections.
Two questions I forgot to ask earlier: 1) What kind of anti-freeze/coolant should I be using in the 01 Maxima. The factory spec for my current car called for Red but when I bought it the engine had Green in it and I change the anti-freeze/coolant every 2 years and have stayed with Green and have had no problems at all
My 2nd question is about fuel. If I remember correctly Nissan says to use Premium for the Maxima but how critical is that? In the 240Z I owned 30 years ago I ran Regular and about once a month I put a tank of Premium in and the car ran fine. In the Honda SI Prelude I had I ran Mid-Grade most of the time and again the car did fine so how closely do I need to listen to what Nissan is saying about this? Thanks again.
Yes the pistons seize in the rear calipers. Water gets past the rubber dust boot and starts rusting and pitting the insides. Cleaning and lubing the piston and boot regularly could help them last longer.
The cables can get dirt and water inside and can rust as well. The rubber boot could be greased where it meets the caliper. The other end would be a challenge as the exhaust heat shield would need to be removed. They also can get pinched where the rear axle pivots so look for damage.
For coolant I use Nissan green, Pentofrost A2, or Zerex green for Asian vehicles. Some are 50/50, some need water.
I rarely use anything but 93. Regular fuel is okay, however expect some knocking and pinging as the compression ratio is high-ish at 10:1.
#988
If you don't mind working on vehicles it's not a bad vehicle to have just remember to check the forms for any questions or videos look up whatever symptoms you're having. The one that I have it's a pretty quick car too.
#989
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Wisconsin, East of Madison, small town of Hustisford
Posts: 23
I've had 3 2002s in the past 15yrs. I love em! I still have one in my driveway, black w/charcoal int, that needs a transmission after 146k and surprisingly the radiator saddle isn't rotted out like 90% of em.
Waiting for a transmission. (Automatic unfortunately) The 6speed went to Carvana when I got my 7th gen(2014) it was so rusted and the wheel wells were so rotted that pieces would fly off with big enough bumps lol.
Bumper duct is useless now with AEM cold air intake lol. Powder coated my wiper arms Pearl at work Lip splitter, front lip, skirts, canards, 8k LEDs in all my lights, RBGW side markers, RBGW/ multi modes LED hood strip, Nissan Logo courtesy lights in all doors, blue LEDs in all interior lights, white plastic engine cover, blue/purple color shift on the other 3 pieces, billet upper and lower grille with Nismo badge, carbon fiber Nismo badge on trunk, Nismo side mirror carbon fiber eyebrows.
8k HIDs, 8k LED high beams, rear diffuser, skirts, rear canards, front RS style lip
8k HID lows 8k LED fogs. Headlights are going to GTA Retrofits in Toronto in a month to have $2200 worth of work done. Diamond shaped Halos on the inside housing, extra projector added w/dual Halos, amber side reflector replaced with a clear one and LED strip behind it, the inside painted to match OEM Pearl w/high gloss, 100 LED DRL/blinker boards and all controlled by BlueGhozt app and 110% programmable/customizable.
AEM cold air intake and step one of plastic cover painting, white engine cover.
Waiting for a transmission. (Automatic unfortunately) The 6speed went to Carvana when I got my 7th gen(2014) it was so rusted and the wheel wells were so rotted that pieces would fly off with big enough bumps lol.
Bumper duct is useless now with AEM cold air intake lol. Powder coated my wiper arms Pearl at work Lip splitter, front lip, skirts, canards, 8k LEDs in all my lights, RBGW side markers, RBGW/ multi modes LED hood strip, Nissan Logo courtesy lights in all doors, blue LEDs in all interior lights, white plastic engine cover, blue/purple color shift on the other 3 pieces, billet upper and lower grille with Nismo badge, carbon fiber Nismo badge on trunk, Nismo side mirror carbon fiber eyebrows.
8k HIDs, 8k LED high beams, rear diffuser, skirts, rear canards, front RS style lip
8k HID lows 8k LED fogs. Headlights are going to GTA Retrofits in Toronto in a month to have $2200 worth of work done. Diamond shaped Halos on the inside housing, extra projector added w/dual Halos, amber side reflector replaced with a clear one and LED strip behind it, the inside painted to match OEM Pearl w/high gloss, 100 LED DRL/blinker boards and all controlled by BlueGhozt app and 110% programmable/customizable.
AEM cold air intake and step one of plastic cover painting, white engine cover.
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