Another Idle problem
02-26-2008, 08:04 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 84
Another Idle problem
Hi guys,
Well my car's at the dealership since yesterday. I doubt they'll find anything, but I'm out of ideas so
The sympton is only present when the car is all warmed up. If I put the car in neutral and rev the engine (usually to 3k) then let go of the pedal, the needle would fall rediculously low. And by low I mean like 200 RPM and then it attemps to fight its way back to 600-750. Car was just serviced. Alternator replaced and idle lowered b.c it was idling high(800s). All done by dealership. oil changed by me. At the stop light the other day it idled normal for about 10 sec and rpm suddenly dropped and stalled. started it up and drove fine. I can't duplicate this problem again, but its worth mentioning since they may be related. Car still drives like a champ, but has these idle problems. Does anyone know whats up?
2k 5sp 88k
Well my car's at the dealership since yesterday. I doubt they'll find anything, but I'm out of ideas so
The sympton is only present when the car is all warmed up. If I put the car in neutral and rev the engine (usually to 3k) then let go of the pedal, the needle would fall rediculously low. And by low I mean like 200 RPM and then it attemps to fight its way back to 600-750. Car was just serviced. Alternator replaced and idle lowered b.c it was idling high(800s). All done by dealership. oil changed by me. At the stop light the other day it idled normal for about 10 sec and rpm suddenly dropped and stalled. started it up and drove fine. I can't duplicate this problem again, but its worth mentioning since they may be related. Car still drives like a champ, but has these idle problems. Does anyone know whats up?
2k 5sp 88k
02-26-2008, 08:58 AM
#2
Have you tried the idle air volume procedure???
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
4. Repeat the following (steps 5a, 5b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
5a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
5b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
6. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
8. Start engine and let it idle.
9. Wait 20 seconds.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
4. Repeat the following (steps 5a, 5b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
5a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
5b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
6. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
8. Start engine and let it idle.
9. Wait 20 seconds.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
02-26-2008, 11:32 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 872
I bought my car new in 1999. I started to have this problem when I started modding my car in 2003, mosre specifically when installed a Y pipe, Stillen intake, and Greddy exhaust. I went to the dealership and they wanted to charge me $250 to run diagnostics and then go from there. I didn't want to deal with that so I have had my car in this condition until last night. I had the MAF replaced and I have to pick it up but the repair guys said it runs smooth now.
So I will see soon after work. If you aren't going to repair this immediately the way that I didn't then somethings that helped stop this stalling problem then try this; When stopping, keep it in gear when braking and shift into neutral at 600 RPMs. Annoying but it works well enough (until the MAF didn't work 5 years later). Or having the air conditioner on would keep the RPMs up.
Sounds like MAF to me as well.
So I will see soon after work. If you aren't going to repair this immediately the way that I didn't then somethings that helped stop this stalling problem then try this; When stopping, keep it in gear when braking and shift into neutral at 600 RPMs. Annoying but it works well enough (until the MAF didn't work 5 years later). Or having the air conditioner on would keep the RPMs up.
Sounds like MAF to me as well.
02-26-2008, 12:07 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 84
i have not done the idle air volume procedure. as i understand it, the dealer did this about a month ago when the ECU was replaced.
I'm not sure if its the MAF. Again, the dealer hasnt called back. Although when they serviced my car a month ago (along with the idle air volume procedure), the guy mentioned that the readings on the MAF were slightly off and recommended changing it. I declined of course.
I'm not sure if its the ECU, or the engine, or the MAF. with my luck though, it'll be something costly. thats for sure. thanks for responses.
I'm not sure if its the MAF. Again, the dealer hasnt called back. Although when they serviced my car a month ago (along with the idle air volume procedure), the guy mentioned that the readings on the MAF were slightly off and recommended changing it. I declined of course.
I'm not sure if its the ECU, or the engine, or the MAF. with my luck though, it'll be something costly. thats for sure. thanks for responses.
02-28-2008, 08:11 AM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 84
Well, I got my car back from the dealer. They wanted to replace the throttle body. Hell, I'll just drive it like this. I just gota rev it a little at every 10 sec interval so the RPMS don't dip. Also, I will try DOM's suggestion to have the AC on at ALL times to prevent the RPMS from going down. I don't know about vacuum leak or how to test for that. I hope its not it though.
Today I drove it to work fine. It didn't stall on me but the RPMS did go to about 500ish and idles from about 500 and back to 600. It never went below 500 which is a good thing. I've had my share of car problems and its pretty traumatic lol.
There is another thread on here with a guy having similar symptom as me. People are suggesting MAF change and ECU reflash. MAF would make sense since I've done evrything else. I wonder if it's my idle screw being too low. Does anyone know where the idle screw is located? I'll try this first before the MAF.
Today I drove it to work fine. It didn't stall on me but the RPMS did go to about 500ish and idles from about 500 and back to 600. It never went below 500 which is a good thing. I've had my share of car problems and its pretty traumatic lol.
There is another thread on here with a guy having similar symptom as me. People are suggesting MAF change and ECU reflash. MAF would make sense since I've done evrything else. I wonder if it's my idle screw being too low. Does anyone know where the idle screw is located? I'll try this first before the MAF.
05-03-2008, 01:55 PM
#10
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mississauga/GTA, Canada
Posts: 5
Hey guys,
Need some help here, but I can't start a new thread due to my low post count so I have to hijack this old thread for a little bit
.
I have a similar problem as the original poster. A month ago, my 01 auto died at a light when I was idling. It would start again, but the rpm would drop right back to zero. It was not able to idle in P,R,N or D.
Did some research on the forum and bought a new MAF sensor. Replaced it myself and it helped a little bit. What I mean by that is.....the car would start, but the rpm would drop back to zero and died. However, if I leave my foot on the gas and rev it up as I start the car, keep the rev there at 1500+rpm for about 10 seconds and then let go, the rpm needle would stay at 600 and idle properly.
I have to do the above everytime I start the car from cold to get it to stay in idle. Once it's warm, as I drive normally to stop signs and lights, it would idle properly without dying, but at 600rpm which I thought was kinda low compared to the normal 700-750rpm idle I got before all this happened. So it's only the initial start, keep the rev there for a while to prevent it from dying right away and to get it to idle.
Let me know what you guys think before I bring it to the dealer, so that I know what problems I should expect to hear from them.
Need some help here, but I can't start a new thread due to my low post count so I have to hijack this old thread for a little bit
.I have a similar problem as the original poster. A month ago, my 01 auto died at a light when I was idling. It would start again, but the rpm would drop right back to zero. It was not able to idle in P,R,N or D.
Did some research on the forum and bought a new MAF sensor. Replaced it myself and it helped a little bit. What I mean by that is.....the car would start, but the rpm would drop back to zero and died. However, if I leave my foot on the gas and rev it up as I start the car, keep the rev there at 1500+rpm for about 10 seconds and then let go, the rpm needle would stay at 600 and idle properly.
I have to do the above everytime I start the car from cold to get it to stay in idle. Once it's warm, as I drive normally to stop signs and lights, it would idle properly without dying, but at 600rpm which I thought was kinda low compared to the normal 700-750rpm idle I got before all this happened. So it's only the initial start, keep the rev there for a while to prevent it from dying right away and to get it to idle.
Let me know what you guys think before I bring it to the dealer, so that I know what problems I should expect to hear from them.
Last edited by Xeno7651; 05-03-2008 at 02:15 PM.
05-04-2008, 08:40 AM
#11
xeno - your IACV is bad, replace it and do the idle air volume relearning for the 2000-2001 procedure. should take car of your problem, this is not your MAF. IACV going bad is a very common problem. should be around $220 new from the dealership. takes about 25 minutes to replace
05-04-2008, 11:42 AM
#13
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 251
Before the IACV replacement you could try to clean it like i did with my 4 gen Max a while ago. They should be pretty similar on these cars; also the 4 gen IACV had an idle adjustment bolt on it, making rev tuning easy. (I can be wrong, though).
Last edited by boris; 05-04-2008 at 11:44 AM.
05-06-2008, 10:42 AM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mississauga/GTA, Canada
Posts: 5
Thanks for the advice. I'm a total noob at all this and I don't even know what an IACV looks like. Can you point me to a picture, website, etc that shows what an IACV looks like on a 4th or 5th gen?
05-08-2008, 01:31 PM
#16
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Location: calgary, AB, canada
Posts: 2
maf
I currently have a friends 02 in my garage and his problem is rather odd as well, the problem is that the idle surges between 1.5k and 2k with very weak throttle response, when the pedal is pressed to the floor it bogs badly. He had the idle air control replaced about 3 weeks ago and the dealership says that the computer is shot. I don't believe this personally I am more inclined to think its the maf. Is there a pinpoint test for the maf sensor itself so I can verify it or not? its an 02, 3.0 L v6 by the way. The only code I get is p0505.
Last edited by Newfiedan; 05-08-2008 at 01:37 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
97_GXE
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
20
09-17-2015 08:12 PM
lrb6805
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
09-17-2015 04:49 PM