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Engine Disaster
A recent thread regarding my son’s 2000 GLE’s A/C turned out to be nothing compared to the next problem that occurred last week. The car began to stall and run rough on the way to work. We had the car towed to the nearest Nissan dealer. To make a long story short it turned out that most of the engine oil was missing and the whole engine will have to be replaced or rebuilt. The dealer wanted $7,000 for an engine replacement but we found another place that will rebuild the existing engine for $4,000.
My son recently had the oil changed and there was no indication of anything wrong up to the failure. There were no dash lights (the check engine light was already on for another reason), no trailing smoke and no oil stains on the garage floor. We still do not understand how this happened. We suspect the oil pan plug was reinstalled incorrectly at that last oil change but cannot be sure. I guess we have two questions. Has this ever happened to anyone else, and is there (or should there be) an oil warning light of some sort to alert a driver of this impending problem? |
There is an Oil Pressure light on the 5.5 gen that lights up to indicate when the oil in the system loses or is at a low pressure. A lot of times, mine will flash a little on startup as the engine initially turns over. It seems weird to me that this light didn't go on..unless the '00's don't have it? :scratch:
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i know my 00 has an oil pressure light. maybe your bulb has burnt out or something.
You might want to consider a 3.5 swap if you are already planning on spending $4k on rebuilding your engine. |
Originally Posted by Feldman
(Post 7133828)
You might want to consider a 3.5 swap if you are already planning on spending $4k on rebuilding your engine.
For his son's car???? Probably not....... |
We’re assuming an engine swap would cost more than a rebuild on the existing engine, so we’re going with that.
When we asked the dealer about no oil pressure light going on he said there is no oil pressure sensor on the 00’s, only an oil temperature sensor. Can anyone shed some “light” on this? :confused: |
Bad assumption.
Source a used engine for 6-800 and swap it in. Labor to remove/replace an engine is ~12 hours last time I checked. $1500 and you're good to go. There IS an oil pressure switch. It's right above the oil pan. |
Where was the oil changed....
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I agree, buy a low mileage used engine from the wreckers and pay half the price.
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
(Post 7134006)
Bad assumption.
Source a used engine for 6-800 and swap it in. Labor to remove/replace an engine is ~12 hours last time I checked. $1500 and you're good to go. There IS an oil pressure switch. It's right above the oil pan. |
Sounds like the place that last changed the oil forgot something or left something loose. As your son was driving down the highway the oil was flowin out of her. Id go back there first and make some accusations preferably WILD ONES haha.
* Hey its worth a try |
Was the oil change done at some kind of "quick oil change" place? Just another reason to do your own oil changes if at all possible. But I urge anyone who gets the oil changed by someone else to at least check that the oil level is at least in the hatchmarks on the dipstick BEFORE driving the car out of the service lot......and then check later that the oil level is close to or at the "H" mark. It wouldn't be the first time that the oil gets drained, but not refilled. And.......everytime that you turn the ignition key to "ON" verify that the low oil pressure light is ON and that it goes out on the engine start. In the case of the originator of this thread, have you checked that the oil pressure light is actually ON with the ignition switch at "ON", and how much oil did the dealer drain out of the engine? I'm wondering if there was just enough oil in the pan to put out the oil pressure light or is the LOP light working? The person at the dealer that stated that there is no LOP light is an idiot. BUT......it is too bad that the Maxi doesn't have a low oil quantity light.
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Originally Posted by 2damax
(Post 7134010)
Where was the oil changed....
I appreciate the advice given here, but regarding an engine swap versus a rebuild, there are other factors we considered. First, we would have to go to a junkyard and find the right engine, and make an assumption it’s still serviceable. I don’t know how that can be determined by just looking at it. Then we would need to have it sent to the shop that would actually do the swap. (It’s certainly not going to go in the trunk of my Infiniti.) All these steps have a cost factor. And frankly, having dealt with junk yards before, I’m not anxious to do it again. On the other hand, the auto shop that wants to do the work will give us a 24-month guarantee on parts and labor, and they can complete the work in a week. Considering our level of expertise and some of these other subtleties, we decided today to have the existing engine rebuilt. What is still unknown is how it happened and what we can do to prevent it from happening again. We’ve asked the mechanics to see if they can determine this as they do the work. |
Althought Nissan's dipsticks aren't the greatest, I do tend to check my oil level once a week. Thats just another way to prevent it from happening.
No other real way to tell what exactly happened except that it lost oil and it toasted the motor. Figuring out how to get it back on the road is what is best for you right now IMO. If you find the right mechanic who is willing to source out a used engine and pick it up and install it, you might cut your costs in half. But finding a person like that these days is kind of hard. |
Your car has an oil pressure warning light, however the switch does not come on until your down around 5psi of oil pressure. By the time the light comes on, damage has already been done.
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The oil was just "missing?" No thrown rods or anything?
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Honestly I'd never consider spending $4k on a stock-rebuilt engine, especially not a VQ30. That's what, about half the cost of the car (if not more)?
Most junkyards will give you a warranty on the engines, though that obviously doesn't cover labor cost for swapping it out it it's faulty. Even if you do get a bad one, you'll still be paying less than the $4k it would be to rebuild it. Most VQ30s you find in a yard are just fine. They're incredibly reliable engines, and there are a few things you can check out in person to make sure. My vote is, just get the ~$200 worth of tools it takes to swap out the engine (that's if you have absolutely nothing already), get a used engine from a yard ($400 at the most, generally), and spend a weekend throwing it in. |
You're crazy if you're going to spend 4,000 on rebuilding a DE-k back to stock spec!
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Originally Posted by 96blackmaxSE
(Post 7134160)
You're crazy if you're going to spend 4,000 on rebuilding a DE-k back to stock spec!
4000 is more then half the cost of your sons car , your just throwing money away if you pay this guy 4000 for a rebuilt DE-K. |
Originally Posted by pmohr
(Post 7134157)
My vote is, just get the ~$200 worth of tools it takes to swap out the engine (that's if you have absolutely nothing already), get a used engine from a yard ($400 at the most, generally), and spend a weekend throwing it in.
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Originally Posted by DrunkieTheBear
(Post 7134178)
Good father son time eh?
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Originally Posted by defiance
(Post 7134173)
I couldn't agree more you can get a 2000 maxima for around 7500 dollars.
4000 is more then half the cost of your sons car , your just throwing money away if you pay this guy 4000 for a rebuilt DE-K. |
Originally Posted by Magellan
(Post 7134117)
I appreciate the advice given here, but regarding an engine swap versus a rebuild, there are other factors we considered. First, we would have to go to a junkyard and find the right engine, and make an assumption it’s still serviceable. I don’t know how that can be determined by just looking at it.
Originally Posted by Magellan
(Post 7134117)
Then we would need to have it sent to the shop that would actually do the swap. (It’s certainly not going to go in the trunk of my Infiniti.)
Originally Posted by Magellan
(Post 7134117)
All these steps have a cost factor. And frankly, having dealt with junk yards before, I’m not anxious to do it again.
Originally Posted by Magellan
(Post 7134117)
On the other hand, the auto shop that wants to do the work will give us a 24-month guarantee on parts and labor, and they can complete the work in a week. Considering our level of expertise and some of these other subtleties, we decided today to have the existing engine rebuilt.
Too bad the decision is already made, because that is a HUGE waste of money. The thing that irks me most about forums is not a member's ability to ASK for advice, but their INability to accept/follow it. Good luck, hope the engine works out. |
Originally Posted by defiance
(Post 7134173)
I couldn't agree more you can get a 2000 maxima for around 7500 dollars.
4000 is more then half the cost of your sons car , your just throwing money away if you pay this guy 4000 for a rebuilt DE-K. To the OP, I actually appraised my car today both at edmunds and kbb. 125k miles on a 2000 Max, excellent condition (which it is).....(drumroll)....$4700. So for 700 more than you paid for an engine, you can get an entire car. Sorry for coming off rude, but wasted money bothers me at a level that I cannot even explain. I digress now. |
I hate to be a cynical SOB but the more I think about this situation, I'm really wondering what really occurred here. The car had the MIL on and then starts running rough etc. No apparent LOP light, no noises, but the dealer says "most" of the oil is gone? It would be nice to have had someone else look at this thing. Was there metal in the oil/the pan.......what happens when it's rotated with a wrench etc.?? I trust dealers about as far as I can throw them!
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
(Post 7134277)
I hate to be a cynical SOB but the more I think about this situation, I'm really wondering what really occurred here. The car had the MIL on and then starts running rough etc. No apparent LOP light, no noises, but the dealer says "most" of the oil is gone? It would be nice to have had someone else look at this thing. Was there metal in the oil/the pan.......what happens when it's rotated with a wrench etc.?? I trust dealers about as far as I can throw them!
Also, the 3.0 doesn't burn oil, so I would go back to the shop that did the oil change and see if they will pick up the repair, or maybe do the engine repair itself! |
Here is a good sorce for engines I checked in my local area and found many engines 83-114k miles from $350-850 just to give you an idea of whats out there. Here is the link see whats in your area. Hope it helps
http://www.car-part.com/ |
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
(Post 7134261)
To the OP, I actually appraised my car today both at edmunds and kbb. 125k miles on a 2000 Max, excellent condition (which it is).....(drumroll)....$4700.
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you could post your location and see if there are any local members that would be willing to swap your engine for a reasonable price. would/would've save(d) you QUITE a bit.
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Agreed, local orgers help each other out. I can't even BEGIN to count the # of local orgers' cars I've worked on.
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
(Post 7134257)
24 months means nothing. An engine can be swapped in a DAY, much less a week. Your arguments are hardly subtleties, simply biased opinions that are unwilling to accept the reality of the matter, a reality that many of us are trying to help you with.
Too bad the decision is already made, because that is a HUGE waste of money. The thing that irks me most about forums is not a member's ability to ASK for advice, but their INability to accept/follow it. Good luck, hope the engine works out. So why are some of you so upset? After all, I’m only asking for opinions, not donations. :) |
lol dis a funny thread cause this same thing happend too me..i just got a new engine..i only payd 2500 for a new one dat had less mileage 76xxx compare too mine dat had 122xx.u getting taxd at the nissan dealer...i wanted too throw a 3.5 on mines too but i slakkd
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If nothing sized or broke while it had no oil, I would put back 4Q of oil to it and check if the stealership is right that there was nothing in there.
It may start back up just fine and drive back to life... |
I won't spend that kind of money rebuilding it....Those cars are worth only $5000-$6000 in excellent shape and low mileage. I would find a used motor if Iwere you either a VQ30DE-K or VQ35DE and install it and call it the day! About $1500 as stated above! Don't be scared... jump in feet first!!!! It's the only way you'll get some depth in knowledge real fast is hands on!
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Originally Posted by Love_00_Max
(Post 7134336)
If nothing sized or broke while it had no oil, I would put back 4Q of oil to it and check if the stealership is right that there was nothing in there.
It may start back up just fine and drive back to life... However, our mechanic did check it out yesterday and said a rebuild or repacement was necessary. |
What happens when you fill it up and start it leaving aside what the stealership/ur mechanic has got to say?
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Originally Posted by Love_00_Max
(Post 7134432)
What happens when you fill it up and start it leaving aside what the stealership/ur mechanic has got to say?
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Originally Posted by Magellan
(Post 7134117)
The oil was changed at a local service station near where my son works about a month ago. But at this point we’re not in a position to show they were at fault. My son reports he never saw a low oil pressure light at any time.
I appreciate the advice given here, but regarding an engine swap versus a rebuild, there are other factors we considered. First, we would have to go to a junkyard and find the right engine, and make an assumption it’s still serviceable. I don’t know how that can be determined by just looking at it. Then we would need to have it sent to the shop that would actually do the swap. (It’s certainly not going to go in the trunk of my Infiniti.) All these steps have a cost factor. And frankly, having dealt with junk yards before, I’m not anxious to do it again. On the other hand, the auto shop that wants to do the work will give us a 24-month guarantee on parts and labor, and they can complete the work in a week. Considering our level of expertise and some of these other subtleties, we decided today to have the existing engine rebuilt. What is still unknown is how it happened and what we can do to prevent it from happening again. We’ve asked the mechanics to see if they can determine this as they do the work. |
Originally Posted by mtrai760
(Post 7134138)
Your car has an oil pressure warning light, however the switch does not come on until your down around 5psi of oil pressure. By the time the light comes on, damage has already been done.
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Originally Posted by Magellan
(Post 7134452)
I don’t know because we towed in to the dealer and eventually to our mechanic in its current state. But the original trouble was manifested by a stalling, rough running engine making an awful noise when we stepped on the gas.
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Originally Posted by pmohr
(Post 7134157)
My vote is, just get the ~$200 worth of tools it takes to swap out the engine (that's if you have absolutely nothing already), get a used engine from a yard ($400 at the most, generally), and spend a weekend throwing it in.
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