98MaximaEcstasy

iTrader: (3)

So I guess my waterpump is slowly leaking.

When I change it out and since some parts are already removed, what else should I change as well?

And if I was going to let a mechanic handle this how much would I expect to pay?

btw: car is at 127k 2000max

Thanks.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Figure on draining the coolant from the radiator, and both sides of the engine block. Then removing the belts, then removing the water pump. Install new water pump, reseal where needed, install belts (which should be checked for wear, since they are off may as well drop on new belts) and refill with coolant.

Then you have to warm the engine, check coolant level after the engine cools down (takes time) if I were forced, I'd say 2 or 3 hours.

98MaximaEcstasy

iTrader: (3)

not bad, besides the belt while everything is off. What else should I replace while at it?

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...teup-pics.html

Nelsito65

^^^That is a great link; it's the one I followed when I replaced mine. Eventhough is for the 4th generation, the principle applies to our cars. You also might want to replace the timing chain tensioner.

98MaximaEcstasy

iTrader: (3)

Do you know how much that part might run me?

Nelsito65

I paid $48 something at Amazon (at the time I had free second day shipping so I didn't have to wait too long):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Amave

ya that writeup is great and detailed. just remember to move the crank pulley back 20 degrees to allow for chain slack after removing the tensioner.

then after installing the water pump, move the crank pulley back to original position 20 degrees and instal tensioner.

i agree with replacing the tensioner , may as well since it's already out .

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

+1 on the tensioner. Just like when you do the timing belt you change the water pump. Spend another $75 or so and not worry about all the labor a second time.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

How difficult is this to do? I'm at 130k and my radiator just went south on me. I am thinking of replacing the water pump as preventative maintenance while I have the cooling system drained.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Here is the factory service manual for Lubrication and Cooling for the 2000-2003 Maxima http://www.mediafire.com/file/nm0nztky4zo/LC.pdf

Also, is PDFTown.com dead?

Amave

from what i have read it is not THAT diffcult. I am probably the most overthinking type of person . I over think things.


just follow the writeup and you should be fine. I checked Alldata & it says the job pays 3.9 labor hours.

Looks like it take as much time as a wheel bearing does.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Cool. Most involved I have done is stereo, starter and brake overhaul. I guess this should be okay. Just afraid about the timing chain tensioner. Was also curious about the life of the water pump if it is worth the $$ and time to change it all out now.

Amave

ya i to was thinking how does the timing chain on the cams not jump from the tension of the valve springs, but another poster stated they followed the writeup and had zero problems.


so i guess its safe

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Any special tools needed for this? I'll look at the FSM procedure later tonight. I'm going to go to autozone to get the belt tool for the tensioner. I have torque wrenches and a 90 mechanic's socket set, so I hope I'm good.

Planning to knock out water pump, timing tensioner, 2 belts, t-stat's, upper/lower radiator hoses & radiator on Saturday. Need to get this car back on the road

Nelsito65

No special tool needed. The covers for the timing chain tensioner and water pump are held by 10mm bolts, IIRC. I believe that the bolts that hold those 2 parts in place are also 10mm. You also might want to take a look at the link for the write-up on post #4 above. By all means, be extremelly careful not to drop anytghing inside the timing chain cover. (I'm not sure what a "belt tool for the tensioner" is).

It might become a little tricky as you hold the chain out of the way in order to slide the new water pump into its housing. A coat hanger with a small hook at one end could be handy.

Amave

also to add, you need two M8 x 40mm bolts to remove the water pump from the block no?

only turning 1/2 turn at a time

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Before you start tearing things apart, consider this:

I too believed I had a water pump leaking, so I called the dealer for a parts cost check.

They said they don't stock 5th gen water pumps, because they've never replaced one!

They did, however, kindly inform me that it was probably the steel line for the oil cooler that was leaking, and yes, they had THAT in stock, for ~$30. Of course, it was.

Two bolts, two hose clamps, refill, and done.

Frankly, that waterpump swap looks like a bear. Tight clearances, and driven off the timing chain.....blah.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

You're right. I'm doing this tomorrow...gotta go find the bloody bolts now.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

old thread but id like to thank Paramy for posting this link and bumping this thread in case anyone else needs to change their water pump