O2, MAF Sensors Plaque
04-29-2010, 06:43 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Yorktown Heights, NY
Posts: 31
O2, MAF Sensors Plaque
It has taken several weeks and I have completed my 15 required posts and most have been about the MAF and O2 Sensors. Yes, there is a ton of stuff out there and it has been greatly helpful. But my 2k se is running very poorly. (5th gen vs 5.5gen?)
The last code was a P0100 which according to Amoco was another MAF related code. I replaced my MAF (thanks to help from here) last Fall. Late Feb the SES returned with the O2 codes (P0138, p0139) I replaced that sensor (again thanks). Still the car ran poorly and now the SES is back on with the P0100 code.
Most of you are sick to death of hearing of the O2 and MAF certainly I am. What can I check at this point to get this vehicle running smoothly again.
Thank you all
The last code was a P0100 which according to Amoco was another MAF related code. I replaced my MAF (thanks to help from here) last Fall. Late Feb the SES returned with the O2 codes (P0138, p0139) I replaced that sensor (again thanks). Still the car ran poorly and now the SES is back on with the P0100 code.
Most of you are sick to death of hearing of the O2 and MAF certainly I am. What can I check at this point to get this vehicle running smoothly again.
Thank you all
04-29-2010, 07:06 AM
#2
It has taken several weeks and I have completed my 15 required posts and most have been about the MAF and O2 Sensors. Yes, there is a ton of stuff out there and it has been greatly helpful. But my 2k se is running very poorly. (5th gen vs 5.5gen?)
The last code was a P0100 which according to Amoco was another MAF related code. I replaced my MAF (thanks to help from here) last Fall. Late Feb the SES returned with the O2 codes (P0138, p0139) I replaced that sensor (again thanks). Still the car ran poorly and now the SES is back on with the P0100 code.
Most of you are sick to death of hearing of the O2 and MAF certainly I am. What can I check at this point to get this vehicle running smoothly again.
Thank you all
The last code was a P0100 which according to Amoco was another MAF related code. I replaced my MAF (thanks to help from here) last Fall. Late Feb the SES returned with the O2 codes (P0138, p0139) I replaced that sensor (again thanks). Still the car ran poorly and now the SES is back on with the P0100 code.
Most of you are sick to death of hearing of the O2 and MAF certainly I am. What can I check at this point to get this vehicle running smoothly again.
Thank you all
04-29-2010, 06:26 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Yorktown Heights, NY
Posts: 31
Not always. I get reduced power and then surges. It stalls when coming to a stop/idle and has stalled a few times running. I often use the push button over drive feature and don't engage it until 3k. I do highway runs and pace traffic at 70+. At that speed it still may cut out like its about to stall.
Can one clean O2 sensors? Is it advisable? Necessary?
Can one clean O2 sensors? Is it advisable? Necessary?
04-30-2010, 02:45 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 18
I've read (generically about 02s, nothing maxima specific) that you can clean them by carefully removing the soot off the outside and from the inside edges of the holes. Have to make sure not to touch or scrape the ceramic inside.
It can correct a sensor fail. As to the long term benefits or amount of time before the same sensor fails again... The article did not have that data.
Two years ago my wifes I30 had a serious flat spot in the middle of the powre band that was fixed by a new MAF (cleaning helped a little, but did not fix it). Her car barely idles on cold days and, a few days ago, it started dying at idle and I cleaned that MAF to no avail.
Seemed to hear a hissing from the back of the firewall, I now have the upper intake off and found that I had...
1. A coolant leak between the IACV and the TB as evidenced by wet, gooey, green build up on the screw heads. If coolant was leaking to exterior of IACV, probably leaking into TB also.
2. Air leak where the upper and lower intakes join as evidenced by dark sooty areas on the lower intake aluminum that go all the way from the outside edge to the inside of the opening with no break where the gasket should be.
I'm waiting for the gaskets (upper to lower intake, IACV to TB, TB to adapter, and adapter to upper intake) to come in. They all cost about 6 bucks each at the stealership.
The intake is easy to get off. Might be worth the relativley low cost and time to refresh the gaskets in your car.
Plus valve cover gaskets are $20-30 each and are easy to replace once the intake is off...
It can correct a sensor fail. As to the long term benefits or amount of time before the same sensor fails again... The article did not have that data.
Two years ago my wifes I30 had a serious flat spot in the middle of the powre band that was fixed by a new MAF (cleaning helped a little, but did not fix it). Her car barely idles on cold days and, a few days ago, it started dying at idle and I cleaned that MAF to no avail.
Seemed to hear a hissing from the back of the firewall, I now have the upper intake off and found that I had...
1. A coolant leak between the IACV and the TB as evidenced by wet, gooey, green build up on the screw heads. If coolant was leaking to exterior of IACV, probably leaking into TB also.
2. Air leak where the upper and lower intakes join as evidenced by dark sooty areas on the lower intake aluminum that go all the way from the outside edge to the inside of the opening with no break where the gasket should be.
I'm waiting for the gaskets (upper to lower intake, IACV to TB, TB to adapter, and adapter to upper intake) to come in. They all cost about 6 bucks each at the stealership.
The intake is easy to get off. Might be worth the relativley low cost and time to refresh the gaskets in your car.
Plus valve cover gaskets are $20-30 each and are easy to replace once the intake is off...
04-30-2010, 09:56 AM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Yorktown Heights, NY
Posts: 31
A turn for the worse.
Two times a week I make a trip 55 miles each way. The trip up is usually fine and trouble starts on the return. Today was one of the worst.
This morning I swapped out an old, cleaned MAF that I experimented with to see how the car may perform with it cleaned. Not so great, acceleration was dull. So I replaced the newer, also cleaned MAF to be on the safe side to make todays trip. Trip up ok a few "coughs" here and there. The trip back was poor. On I95 at 60+ mph the car would just cut out but quickly regained itself. Once I hit the local streets it gave me problems (bucking, stalling, no acceleration) especially at the 2200-2400 rpm range. I had to pull over to allow traffic to pass. Oh and the SES came back on. That did not happen after near 50 miles with the old MAF.
Taking this to a garage is not an option at this point. Funds are grossly limited.
Anyone, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks one and all.
Two times a week I make a trip 55 miles each way. The trip up is usually fine and trouble starts on the return. Today was one of the worst.
This morning I swapped out an old, cleaned MAF that I experimented with to see how the car may perform with it cleaned. Not so great, acceleration was dull. So I replaced the newer, also cleaned MAF to be on the safe side to make todays trip. Trip up ok a few "coughs" here and there. The trip back was poor. On I95 at 60+ mph the car would just cut out but quickly regained itself. Once I hit the local streets it gave me problems (bucking, stalling, no acceleration) especially at the 2200-2400 rpm range. I had to pull over to allow traffic to pass. Oh and the SES came back on. That did not happen after near 50 miles with the old MAF.
Taking this to a garage is not an option at this point. Funds are grossly limited.
Anyone, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks one and all.
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