why is my battery light and my brake light on?
#1
why is my battery light and my brake light on?
ok so i was driveing home and i notice that my Brake light and my Battery light are both now on?... what does this mean and is there a way to reset the light's? i know on my 4th gen i did some thing like push the door button so many times then turn the car on..... any idea's?
#3
#7
ok so i was driveing home and i notice that my Brake light and my Battery light are both now on?... what does this mean and is there a way to reset the light's? i know on my 4th gen i did some thing like push the door button so many times then turn the car on..... any idea's?
#8
Thanks everyone, its all over..... i was driveing to work this morn and ALL my lights came on and ALL my gauges were jumpin, i got to work and DONE, lol put a new battery in it and i atleast got it home.........thanks again
#9
^^Not sure what you mean by "I got it to work and DONE", but this might not be the end of the problem. You should get that alternator checked before it ruins the new battery too, in case it is something you also need to replace.
Last edited by Nelsito65; 06-01-2010 at 11:48 AM.
#11
Battery issues are totally different from alternator issues. Your description is more of alternator problem.
Get the alternator tested pronto. If your alt is defective, your battery will last a few months only and you will be back in the same boat.
We (a lot of us) have been through your kind of symptoms.
#12
And by the way, I purchase most of my parts from Autozone, including my alternator, and I have had no issues with their parts. But I know some other members can't say the same.
Last edited by Nelsito65; 06-01-2010 at 12:19 PM.
#14
If anything fails try the local forums:
http://forums.maxima.org/northeastern-u-s-11/
Last edited by Nelsito65; 06-01-2010 at 12:46 PM.
#16
Oh, you'll understand one day . I think, he is on the right track - based on his symptoms alt was undercharging the battery so he could only go as far as the charge in the battery itself allowed him to. I also think his 'dead' battery is still good - just needs to be recharged, preferably out of the car. I don't think there's any other problem with the car.
#17
Oh, you'll understand one day . I think, he is on the right track - based on his symptoms alt was undercharging the battery so he could only go as far as the charge in the battery itself allowed him to. I also think his 'dead' battery is still good - just needs to be recharged, preferably out of the car. I don't think there's any other problem with the car.
#18
I meant - no other problem besides bad alternator, there's nothing else to check there at the moment. I was also objecting to the idea that in his case alternator can possibly ruin new battery. I'd definitely check the voltage at 1k rpm after alt replacement of course.
#19
This is not related to this post but I have come to realize that auto shops (had a direct experience with PepBoys a long time ago), to be specific certain mechanics will diagnose a bad battery and will go ahead and sell you a battery. A few weeks later, you take it in because your NEW battery is limping along and then they say, it is the alternator.
It was the alternator from day 1.
Replacing an alternator is much harder than swapping a battery they can quickly send you on your way.
Just an observation. I have heard it too many times.
It was the alternator from day 1.
Replacing an alternator is much harder than swapping a battery they can quickly send you on your way.
Just an observation. I have heard it too many times.
#20
This is not related to this post but I have come to realize that auto shops (had a direct experience with PepBoys a long time ago), to be specific certain mechanics will diagnose a bad battery and will go ahead and sell you a battery. A few weeks later, you take it in because your NEW battery is limping along and then they say, it is the alternator.
It was the alternator from day 1.
Replacing an alternator is much harder than swapping a battery they can quickly send you on your way.
Just an observation. I have heard it too many times.
It was the alternator from day 1.
Replacing an alternator is much harder than swapping a battery they can quickly send you on your way.
Just an observation. I have heard it too many times.
#22
my brake light came on today wen i started the car but went of later wen i was drivin what do that meen i hope not the altornator this car is becomeing a money pit i just put in a ac conpressor and thats not cheap
#23
Check level of your brake fluid. My definition of a 'money pit' is $1k/year when it's 8+ years old.. If it exceeds that then yes, you've got one.
#25
At that rate almost anything fits definition of 'good, reliable car' . Seriously, I meant the money you actually paying for maintenance and was referring to the used ones, 6+ years old. At certain point any car requires more than 1k/year in maint+repairs. Some reach this limit earlier, some later. My 1993 SE so far still under the mark and 2k one has been probably around $800/year, including T1R summer tires and fluid/brakes changes. Over 10 years / 300k km I replaced 4 coils, starter, oxygen sensor, battery, ebrake, CV boots, ball joint, motor mounts, wheel bearing, rotors. I did all of that myself (ex bearing replacement) which helped to keep costs down as well as to avoid extra problems. I screwed up 2 sensors: MAF and ABS and was out for about $350 as a consequence, considering it price for education .
#26
#27
is my problem just brewing? I had the brake/battery light come on over a month ago. It came on over the weekend again. Does it stay on or does it just kind of stays on a few seconds? Both times it happened as i was parking the car. I've driven the car for the last 4days and nothing. Should i be worried.
#28
is my problem just brewing? I had the brake/battery light come on over a month ago. It came on over the weekend again. Does it stay on or does it just kind of stays on a few seconds? Both times it happened as i was parking the car. I've driven the car for the last 4days and nothing. Should i be worried.
#30
Sounds like the beginning of the end. Would definitely check the alternator. When mine starting going, the light wasn't consistent, but the car finally did die (luckily I was within autoshop range and didn't have to go far).
#31
brake and battery light is an alty fail indication.... i just went through this and i had a performance alry on the car... make sure after u replace the alty that the battery is fullly charged
#32
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Hey guys.....
I got the good old brake and battery lights this morning as I was driving around looking for parking.
I only drove a couple blocks with them on, then parked the car. My question is how far can one typically drive after the lights come on?
I have an appointment with my mechanic this afternoon and he is about 20-25 miles away, and I have to stop to pick up an alternator on the way. What do think my chances are of making it there without breaking down?
We can start a pool on whether I will make it or not and I will let you know the results tomorrow
I got the good old brake and battery lights this morning as I was driving around looking for parking.
I only drove a couple blocks with them on, then parked the car. My question is how far can one typically drive after the lights come on?
I have an appointment with my mechanic this afternoon and he is about 20-25 miles away, and I have to stop to pick up an alternator on the way. What do think my chances are of making it there without breaking down?
We can start a pool on whether I will make it or not and I will let you know the results tomorrow
#34
Hey guys.....
I got the good old brake and battery lights this morning as I was driving around looking for parking.
I only drove a couple blocks with them on, then parked the car. My question is how far can one typically drive after the lights come on?
I have an appointment with my mechanic this afternoon and he is about 20-25 miles away, and I have to stop to pick up an alternator on the way. What do think my chances are of making it there without breaking down?
We can start a pool on whether I will make it or not and I will let you know the results tomorrow
I got the good old brake and battery lights this morning as I was driving around looking for parking.
I only drove a couple blocks with them on, then parked the car. My question is how far can one typically drive after the lights come on?
I have an appointment with my mechanic this afternoon and he is about 20-25 miles away, and I have to stop to pick up an alternator on the way. What do think my chances are of making it there without breaking down?
We can start a pool on whether I will make it or not and I will let you know the results tomorrow
Vball, when my alternator went out, I literally had about 10-15 mins of run time, before the car shut off. Granted, I had the A/C on, radio on, etc., and hitting your brake lights sucks up a TON of juice. If you were able to head to your mechanics shop without ANY accessories on (headlights, wipers, etc.), and rarely using your brakes, you _might_ make it. My suggestion would be to bring a spare fully charged battery with you, to swap out if needed.
#35
#36
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Shore, MA
Posts: 1,795
Vball, when my alternator went out, I literally had about 10-15 mins of run time, before the car shut off. Granted, I had the A/C on, radio on, etc., and hitting your brake lights sucks up a TON of juice. If you were able to head to your mechanics shop without ANY accessories on (headlights, wipers, etc.), and rarely using your brakes, you _might_ make it. My suggestion would be to bring a spare fully charged battery with you, to swap out if needed.
#39
#40
Was there ever even any indication of alternator going before both lights went solid? Were they flickering once in a while in the past? How many miles?
I am wondering if I should just proactively change the alternator.
- Vikas
I am wondering if I should just proactively change the alternator.
- Vikas