BOSE SUB rattling me crazy
 

Hey guys,

I have a 2000 maxima with the Bose in it and recently the rear sub started to have an awful rattle whenever it would have ANY sound go through it. I've taken the speaker out of the car and there are no tears or any other signs of damage to the actual speaker itself.

Also, even when I shake it super hard there's no rattling in the assembly (speaker, black plastic backing, and the black metal top over the cone). However, when I manually press the speaker downwards I hear some scraping as if the speaker where on a concentric rail to guide it up and down.

It appears that this component either has lost its lubrication or there's some contact that isn't supposed to be there. Finally, when I'm playing bass through it in my car if I "dampen" the speaker surface I can eliminate the rattle.

Anyone care to help me out??? This has completely destroyed my music machine :D

~DF

Try this:)
http://shiftice.com/bose_deck_fix.html

This would be interesting if its the deck. I literally had it completely detached from the car (wires still attached obviously) and even holding it in my hands it still rattled.


....Now I can't wait to go check that out! Thanks jowo9!!

It's blown. It happens to a lot of speakers (not all, I've got some that are 30+ years old and still pound) and is the result of the voice coil going bad (simply - the metal winding at the magnet). Absolutely follow the advice for sound deadening the rear deck panel. Then, go and pick up a nice Kicker 8" sub to put back. If you got the cash, get you a good little 150-200 watt amp to push that puppy and all will be right as rain.

It doesn't sound too good (pardon the pun) for the speaker. Maybe before you decide to replace it, check out this thread on the amplifier board for the speaker. Nissans have a lot of problems with cold solder connections and this is a possibility and is a much cheaper fix.
.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...00-maxima.html

time to replace that sub bro

Thanks for all the replies guys.

Chris Gregg> I understand that the circuit board filters the audio and only allows lowers frequencies to pass through (ty DennisMik). If I got a kicker could I still utilize this or should I just eliminate that altogether?

I'm taking out the rattlebox right now and inspecting/soldering :D

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r45/dfownz/photo.jpg

Mine seems to be fine and must just be a bad speaker......


Good thing I got paid today!!!! What's the best replacement and can you point me to any writeups?

I know nothing about speakers and subs....how's these two:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...&skuId=9925269

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...&skuId=9925029

Also, if I considered adding an additional 12" or like two 10"'s in the trunk, would I be better off buying ONE big amp or TWO separate ones?

Can someone point me in the right direction for hooking up an aftermarket sub in place of the bose one??

Tried looking but I can't seem to find anything.

Had the same rattle in mine....extremely annoying, I just upgraded to aftermarket subs...lol.

Lol so now I'm just looking for subs. My battery's already in the trunk so wiring that up will be super easy.

Does anyone know if wiring subs to the stock Bose HU is possible? I was going to use the wiring that supplies audio to the stock sub (which I took out).

So I've spent a day reading up on the stickies and I still cannot properly install my subs to my STOCK bose HU.

Has anyone done this in their 2000 Bose Max? Right now I have the stock sub disconnected and the three wires that run through the filter (didn't use purple and yellow) to connect to my rca's and remote wire. Remote works fine, but the subs just have crazy bass all the time like a constant drone.

.....so I couldn't have done it right. Please help meh!

EDIT: So I hooked up the black with red stripe to the RCA - and the orange with red stripe to the RCA +

installing basslink II tomorrow but with an aftermarket headunit and RCA wires

the bose works all together bro, and the sub is matched to the bose amp, so an aftermarket sub would probably fry your bose amp, there isnt an easy work around if u ask me, i started looking into it, and to wire around the bose stuff and put in aftermarket is more hassle than its worth. because when the other speakers blow, what will you do.
rewire the entire thing, throw in some good speakers, and wire your aftermarket sub and amp, it took me a few days to get into the factory harnesses, match the wires, and bypass the bose amp, but you can use the existing wire in the car.
you will be much more happy!

I have a separate amp for the subs and I was just trying to use the line-level signal (pre-amp) to provide my amp with a signal to amplify and send to the subs.

I'm probably just getting an aftermarket hu tho this stuff is a major pita

if you take it to a real aduio shop they will tell you your options, a new deck, and separate amp and sub will be the easiest and fastest upgrade.
now when you start pounding that sub and the rest of the speakers start to go, then the full rewire will be in order. glad to help, i did it myself and it took a good diagram, and time, but it came out great

take it to an audio place. they can intercept the signal from the amp and send it to your aftermarket amp. I swear there is a writeup on this somewhere, but I dont know. Ive done this so I know you can do it using only two aftermarket pieces (not sure what they are), amp and sub. you can also fit an 8" sub in the stock sub location so you dont have some silly sub box taking up room in your trunk

i pulled the diagram off google, strip the harness wrap back to expose the colored wires. with the diagram its not bad. then what Gemner said should be do'able. i tried the 8 in the back dash and it sounded like poo, got to cheapo rockford 10s in a small box on a small alpine and the sound is great. left the whole in the back deck where the stock bose sub goes, to let it in to the cab, WOOT

The stock system is all scrap.. Worst factory stereo I've ever had the misfortune of owning and the only one that forced me to pony up the $ and gut it all.

New deck, new components, coaxials, 4 channel amp, and a sub and amp seperate.

Sounds awesome now! No more BLOSE!

My 01 rattles too, but mines different than yours when i push it up as you said mine ceases to rattle, and it seems to be that there are 4 holes fore it to be secured in yet on the plate there are only 3 drilled... so factory problem maybe??

I had the same issue in my '01 I30, sub sould like doo doo, then i put my finger up in there and is sound better. The fix unscrew the subwoofer and open the big city dumpster and drop it inside. issue resolved.

Damn seems like everybody be blowing that's why you got to get a real woofer and amp cause when people try to bump those things they just blow!!:D

Yeah old thread I know...
I went to do this today... put the dynomat in and installed a new sub...

Went to put things back and the damn seat belts are locked up too short to bring back up to the rear deck and reinstall. I am pretty irritated right now..

How do I extend the belts?

Figured it out...

You have to keep the belt extended in one hand and then pull it out from the roller little by little. As it clicks you keep the slack tight and just keep doing it over and over as it releases a little of the belt. Eventually it keeps letting out a tiny bit more slack until you have enough to reinstall it into the rear deck... doesn't take that long nor is it too hard. If you don't know how to do it you will be pretty irritated...