painted rear lip but didn't turn out great ):
 

I finally got my stillen rear valance after saving up forever! I checked posts on the org and decided to order paint from paintscratch.com and try it myself. After sanding, primer, a few coats of base paint, and clear the lip was very dull. So i looked in the back of the clear coat can and it says rubbing compound needed. So i went to Autozone and bought rubbing compound and buffed it on my lip and it ended up giving it a hazy white look. Do you guys know if theres a way to fix this or any way to make it close to the glossy factory paint?

I applaud your efforts, but some things need to be left to the pros.

a lip only costs 100 bucks to have them color match and put it on. just pay a professional.

IDK about $100, my local guy wanted $250 but it was pearl white. But yea just let someone else do it.

rubbing compound is an abrasive substance bro, get a good wax on there and polish it out. get with scottwax for his recommendations.

orgullos front cost me 400$ to get painted. the lip was gonna be two hundred. the 400$ included installation and removal of the stock.

I'd try a polish to bring it back at all but I am an advocate of having it done professionally. All these homemade painted grilles and lip kits NEVER come out as well as the body shops. IBsoonerfan posts his painted grille.

I've been doing touch up on my 03 QX1 and let me tell you nothing out there matches.I had to finally take the bumpers off and get them done the right way it was cheaper then all the methods I tried including the OE matched 3 step spray can method which took 5 kits to do both bumpers and splash guards.

paint fades over time. youll never get a perfect match with a rattle can.

not that this helps, but i like the rattle can paint and clear coat from automotive touchup. not a perfect match, but pretty close.

you're problem sound like either you did not spray the clear coat thick enough (i have found that clear coat requires closer, slower and thicker coats than base paint), or it needs a wet sanding and then rubbing compound. I have also found that you need a machine (i.e., attachment for a drill) for the rubbing compound, just using elbow grease may not be enough. Follow the compound with a good waxing. Depending on what it looks like now, you may be able to sand the clear coat and spray it again. The first time I attempted to paint, with a spray gun, I had to sand the clear coat and do it again.

thanks for the advices. the reason why i didnt want to get it professionally painted was because the car is already 8 years old with 130,000+ miles and i didnt think it was worth making it perfect.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...9-18142516.jpg
(ignore the giant gash in my rear bumper, some honda rear ended me -____-)

this is how it turned out after hand waxing it for half an hour. about 40% of the white haze came off. i'll probably get out the buffer when i have time and wax it soon. the color match is pretty good. just not the gloss which i'll probably think about adding more clear coat.

practice makes perfect.. i did my whole lip kit and it came out like doo doo... but ima get better

After you paint it you need to wet sand it to bring out the gloss..(1500 to 2000 grit)

some clears just don't have the high gloss you might be looking for, you might want to wet sand it 1000 grit lightly and re-clear with a different brand clear if cut and polish doesn't work.

What worked for me the couple times I painted my self was 3 clear coat wet sand then clear again. 2000 grit wet sand polish and wax

Hey, atleast u tried...I sure wouldn't

i agree with you. my I30 is 9 years old and I park on the street and get dinged. When i wanted a spoiler and side skirts I didnt want to pay a professional, and also didn't need it perfect b/c of the car's age and condition. as stated, wet sanding the clear is the key, asssuming of course there is enough clear in the first place. when doing my side skirts, the clear came out worse than horrible orange peel. i wet sanded and buffed and it looks really good. i painted another part of the car with rattle can color code paint and clear and put the clear on thick and didnt need to wet sand. practice is the key.

i like your tails man...paint came out pretty decent too

You should've worried about touching up that scrape on your rear bumper before you went about painting your lip.

Also, for future reference, never, ever sand urethane plastic. It's a big no-no because it can damage the plastic and cause the paint to not set up properly. Adhesion promoter is all you need.

When I did my roof spoiler with the paint from www.touchuppaintonline.com, they sent me a high gloss clearcoat and it literally was very high gloss, so I didn't have the same problem.

One thing though, aren't you not supposed to wax/polish/buff the parts after you clearcoat? On the instructions I got, it said to leave the clearcoat alone for several weeks before doing the buffing.

this.

and yes i paid 100 for my lip painted, some bondoing, and install for 100 bucks. anyone who charges you 200 is ripping you off. I didn't even know the bodyshop as my body shop guy was backed up so i just called around.

Yes. Paint needs at least one to two weeks to cure before you should even consider washing it. It's also recommended that you wait five or six months to polish/wax new paint.