Brl24

I'm about throw on some new front rotors later today as mine were pretty warped. Other than cleaning them off well, any other useful tips I could use, about install, break-in etc ... Thanks

eclipse98

iTrader: (1)

i think they are pretty streight forward dude, have fun

ColdRain

I guess you'll also need new brake pads and calipers may need to be looked at.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

And you could look up on shiftice.com for some info if you need it plenty basic diy info....Good Luck....

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

A couple things to check...

1. Need new pads (assuming you have them, but just thought I would state this).

2. Clean and grease your caliper pins and little boot whenever you install new pads and/or rotors.

3. Install new brake hardware. Did you get new hardware?

4. Consider flushing your brake fluid at each corner. There is a specific sequence to follow after flushing when you go to bleed the air out of your brake system. If you haven't done the brake flush in 2+ years this is highly recommended.

5. Most pads are already broken in, but always check the pad manufacturers information as they will specify any break in procedures if needed.

6. Check your brake lines for any cracking or tearing. You would hate to bust a brake line and if you do all of this maintenance you may stress the lines a bit causing a weak line to burst. It is not likely, but never a good thing when it happens.

7. If you do decide to flush your brake fluid/system, you may want to consider installing speed bleeders. They allow you to bleed all air from your brakes by yourself, without the help of another person. I have them on all my vehicles, including my motorcycle.

Brl24

Ya I am a little suspicious of one rotor, how can I tell if it is no good? Pads still have lotsa meat on them, so I was gonna leave them unless they would be damaged from the warped rotors?

Andy2000max

IMO never put old pads on new rotors.

You have taken the time to remove the wheel, caliper, caliper bracket, and brake hardware. Pads are relatively inexpensive, so do the job right. Put new pads on while you have everything apart. You don't necessarily new brake hardware, but you need to clean them up and make sure they're not damaged.

ColdRain

what is exactly brake hardware?

also, OP make sure wipe oil off the new rotors.

Flanker84

I got one question (and yes, I searched but I didn't found that information): The G6 front brake rotors will fit in a 2001 Maxima SE without the need of modify the calipers or the bracket?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I agree on the new pads. Anytime you change rotors, change pads, especially if they are warped. The warping is actually the inconsistent pad removal building up on the rotor. If your rotors are warped, so are your pads.

I disagree on the brake hardware. You should replace this anytime you replace pads/rotors. It is inexpensive from autozone or kragen. The basic hardware keeps the pad off the rotor as there is a little metal spring. This spring tension will decrease over time and you will have inadvertent pad and rotor contact. Some new hardware kits have extra brackets for the pads as well to help reduce noise. These aren't necessarily needed.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

What are the benefits?

A 2k2 Maxima rotor will also fit, as well as an A34.

Flanker84

I ask because I was reading about all this warping situation and I'm searching for OEM rotors that will resist the warping and if I can use the 2k2 rotors... Yay!

Also my Maxima got the 17 inches wheels.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I would search on brake upgrades for your car.

Are these the stock 17's from 2k-2k1?

Flanker84

Yes, it's the SE version (not the AE )

7speed

Just because rotors are bad doesn't mean you need new pads etc. I replaced my front rotors this weekend because they were warped and couldn't be cut anymore. I thought I needed new brake pads also. But they were still in great shape. New front rotors only and my brake systems feel brand new once again.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

The question is how long were the pads on those rotors? If not a very long time, then you'll probably be ok. However, if they were part of the warping process then you'll have issues down the road. It's been two days right? Yeah....

Brl24

What exactly do you mean brake "hardware", the pad clips?

Flanker84

Bolts, nuts, retainers, springs and all that parts that you remove and put back when you do your "brake service". Pretty cheap when you buy it by your own and pretty expensive (Yikes!) when it's purchased by the dealer.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I mean the pad clips, and retainer springs.

There is no need to replace any bolts unless you break or strip one.

And yes, they are quite expensive at the dealer so use autozone, pepboys, or kragen (o'reilly).

Brl24

Im sort of suspicious of the drivers front caliper, what is my best way of diagnosing a bad one? If so could this be causing the warp?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Lift vehicle
Spin wheel by hand (neutral)
Note resistance
Profit???

Brl24

Alright I will try, last night I popped the calipers off and I didn't need a piston compressor or clamps of any kind. Normal?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

What do you mean? You were able to compress that caliper by hand? If so, it is a definite problem and you have an air leak somewhere. Although, if is was that bad, then you would have a spongy brake pedal.

Or, do you mean you can take off the caliper and then reisntall without having to compress the piston? If so, then this is completely normal as you are not installing new pads (thicker) or pressing the brake pedal with the caliper off.

Brl24

Phew, that's good. Makes sense, but I'm gonna test the calipers today. So the best waynto do this is to just hand spin the wheel, and if there is resistance they are no good?

Flanker84

When you spin your wheel and feel resistance in some sections of the spic then you maybe have a problem but it can be the brakes or something more serious like the bearing. It's a very simple test but it will be better if you check your rotors separately.

Have a good day.

Brl24

There is very little resistance, but the pads are in constant connection with the rotors, is this normal?

sontakke

Yup, that's how it should be i.e. barely touching.

If you are having steering shudders when you brake aggressively, replace the rotors along with the pads. Otherwise, you can keep the old rotors provided they look reasonable and have the appropriate thickness. Unless they were cut before, the thickness would be fine. On the other hand, rotors are not that expensive; just get better quality one and do the job right first time.

- Vikas

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

If rotor quality is questionable you can always take them to a shop and have them check the thickness and the variance in thickness (the variance gives you the brake shudder). If it is out of spec they will tell you and either cut them for you or tell you to buy new ones.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

My thoughts exactly. I have replaced rotors on several cars including my Maxima and a 2007 Camry, without replacing pads. No need to if the pads are still good. I've also replaced pads and not turned or replaced rotors when I did it, never had any problems.

I've owned probably 60 cars and truck in the last 35 years and never flushed a brake system, never saw a reason to. No issues with that as well.

Why throw more money at old cars than you have to?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

To each their own...personally when it comes to brakes, which stop the car and issues can lead to accidents, I tend to do more PM activities.

Just me...I'd rather not risk any type of potential brake failure.