powersteering belt removal???
#5
Here is a link to a video on replacing the ps belt on a 4th gen.
It is by a Maxima.org member. The differences between a 4th gen
and a 5th gen are extremely minimal, so you should have a pretty
good idea after watching this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8c1e...E3C3345DC2C64F
It is by a Maxima.org member. The differences between a 4th gen
and a 5th gen are extremely minimal, so you should have a pretty
good idea after watching this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8c1e...E3C3345DC2C64F
#6
I just did my belts... well, I did my a/c & alt belt and started to do my p/s belt. I bailed on it because the top bolt was impossible to reach with the tools I had. Oh well. Fortunately, the p/s belt seemed to have less than half the wear of the other belt. I have 130k and both belts were original. Belts last a LOT longer than people think they do.
My recommendation to you: wait for your high pressure p/s hose to spring a leak and get the mechanic to replace the belt when he dose the hose : )
My recommendation to you: wait for your high pressure p/s hose to spring a leak and get the mechanic to replace the belt when he dose the hose : )
#7
I just did my belts... well, I did my a/c & alt belt and started to do my p/s belt. I bailed on it because the top bolt was impossible to reach with the tools I had. Oh well. Fortunately, the p/s belt seemed to have less than half the wear of the other belt. I have 130k and both belts were original. Belts last a LOT longer than people think they do.
My recommendation to you: wait for your high pressure p/s hose to spring a leak and get the mechanic to replace the belt when he dose the hose : )
My recommendation to you: wait for your high pressure p/s hose to spring a leak and get the mechanic to replace the belt when he dose the hose : )
#8
FYI if anyone has trouble with the tension bolt being rusted or think you're about to break the head off, the replacement part is $6.25 at the nissan dealership (adjustment bolt and square thing). Might as well be safe and just replace it. It's just held on with a 12mm bolt that you're gonna be loosening anyways while changing the belt. Hardest part was orienting the 12 mm back into its hole and starting the threads. Make sure you screw the adjuster bolt halfway into the square and then slip the head of the adjuster bolt into its L shaped slot before you try to line the 12mm up into its hole.
#9
#11
I cheated when I did my belts. I loosened the idler pulley and removed the main belt. Then I cut the p/s belt and put the new one fully on the crankshaft pulley and half on the p/s pulley. I rotated the crank to get the belt to fully seat on the p/s pulley. And done.
#14
Today I came up with a really good method for getting to the 14 mm (9/16) bolt on the back of the pump that needs to be loosened to adjust or change the power steering belt. I was tempted to remove my axle to get room for a wrench but decided to take a break and re evaluate it from another angle. Then I came up with the solution. I put a 9/16 on a swivel, then connected 3 six inch extensions together, then slipped it in from between the bottom of the transmission and the lower motor mount all the way across so I was basically coming straight at the bolt at an angle. Then with a ratchet I was able to break the bolt free.*
FYI if anyone has trouble with the tension bolt being rusted or think you're about to break the head off, the replacement part is $6.25 at the nissan dealership (adjustment bolt and square thing). Might as well be safe and just replace it. It's just held on with a 12mm bolt that you're gonna be loosening anyways while changing the belt. Hardest part was orienting the 12 mm back into its hole and starting the threads. Make sure you screw the adjuster bolt halfway into the square and then slip the head of the adjuster bolt into its L shaped slot before you try to line the 12mm up into its hole.
FYI if anyone has trouble with the tension bolt being rusted or think you're about to break the head off, the replacement part is $6.25 at the nissan dealership (adjustment bolt and square thing). Might as well be safe and just replace it. It's just held on with a 12mm bolt that you're gonna be loosening anyways while changing the belt. Hardest part was orienting the 12 mm back into its hole and starting the threads. Make sure you screw the adjuster bolt halfway into the square and then slip the head of the adjuster bolt into its L shaped slot before you try to line the 12mm up into its hole.
#15
Probably the biggest issue when doing these belt are people not loosening that axis bolt at all, or not loosening it enough.... and trying the loosen/tighten that tensioner adjustment bolt first, which in turn destroys the tensioner adjustment bolt threads...I actually love these tensioning systems over that spring loaded GM crap...Anyway read first then attempt to perform the task it makes it le$$ painful...
#16
Yeah I know what it is....But truthfully my Dad asked me for years how do I work on cars with 1/4" drive tools? I use the hell out of 1/4" in those tight spot as well as ratcheting wrench, which changed everything once they became available...
Probably the biggest issue when doing these belt are people not loosening that axis bolt at all, or not loosening it enough.... and trying the loosen/tighten that tensioner adjustment bolt first, which in turn destroys the tensioner adjustment bolt threads...I actually love these tensioning systems over that spring loaded GM crap...Anyway read first then attempt to perform the task it makes it le$$ painful...
Probably the biggest issue when doing these belt are people not loosening that axis bolt at all, or not loosening it enough.... and trying the loosen/tighten that tensioner adjustment bolt first, which in turn destroys the tensioner adjustment bolt threads...I actually love these tensioning systems over that spring loaded GM crap...Anyway read first then attempt to perform the task it makes it le$$ painful...
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