What You Must Do At 120k
 

Well it's finally summer time and I'm at 123k miles. I've had the 02 6MT since December 07. Got it with 49k. I've replaced the PS hose, engine mounts and MAF. Otherwise, it's been a dream. Clutch is still strong transmission is doing just fine. However, with these mods, and what I've experienced before (typically on humid days or colder days), this thing can pull harder than it has been lately.

- Tranny fluid has been changed on schedule
- Full synthetic every 3500 miles
- Iridium IX's plugs at 100k
- Typically not driven hard. I'll get on it from time to time, however.

I'm planning to replace:
- Knock sensor
- Fuel filter
- Coil packs

Does anyone have any recommendation on "MUST DOs" that should have or needs to occur now? IIRC, it's still has the stock KS, fuel filter and coil packs.

For the tl;dr: I'm at 123k, what do?

Much appreciated, glad to have some time to be back on the boards!

You might as well make the small investment of valve covers and gaskets if you're throwing new coils on it. Still have a PCV valve? Clean it or replace it. How do your upper radiator bracket grommets look? I am almost convinced the premature failure of the radiator has something to do with the jarring caused by play in these grommets as they age. Every radiator I've replaced on a Max has had worn out grommets. Shake the radiator back and forth by hand and you'll see what I mean. Meh. Could just be correlation, but they're a cheap investment.

The PCV valve is relatively inexpensive and an easy replacement, maybe I shall. Also, my radiator grommets are pretty shot, haven't had any issues with anything radiator related. Again an easy fix. I'll add these to the list.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Radiator Grommets
 

Where can I purchase these grommets? I have a 2k @ 110k, and I noticed my radiator felt a loose as i was doing a little cleaning in the engine bay. Is there a part number? Thanks!

You're welcome. :) While you're at it, check the various vacuum hoses. It's usually inexpensive and another maintenance item that is usually overlooked until a CEL trips or there is a performance issue. Easier to replace with new than spend time searching for leaking hoses. :nod: Honestly though, I'd probably nickel and dime you to death with my OCD suggestions.

It's nice to see someone's 2k2 is running like a dream.....Mine moves like chet,accelerates like chet,clunks as chet,shifts like chet and it has the same milage as yours....I regert the day I traded my 97 auto gold GXE (with broken odo on 167xxx miles 4 years ago) with this car...

Take good care of your car.

Thanks for the link!

Unless you are having issues with coilpacks, replacing them as part of "scheduled" maintenance is a waste of good money. The odds are better that your alternator, starter, or radiator will go out than your coil packs.

And even if it happens, it will probably just be one of them. Why spend $500+ on un-needed parts? If one goes out, it will idle rough but it will not strand you. Plus it's and electronic part; no moving things to wear out on it. If they have lasted 123,000 miles, what makes you think they won't last another 100,000 miles?

Knock sensor; are you throwing a code for it? If not, leave it alone, same as coil packs. Gen 4 Maximas went through knock sensors on a regular basis (I've replaced 2) but Gen 5.5 does not seem to have that issue.

Fuel filter...hmmm...nah, I would not to that either, especially since ours are in the gas tank. Unless you have hesitation/driveablility issues I would leave well enough alone.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

co-sign on gromets i just replaced mine radiator is now stiff was loose b4

why waste money on full synthetic oil to only leave it in your engine for 3500 miles. Just use regular oil. If you are going synthetic then you can get a high mileage oil filter and leave the oil in there 6000 miles (might have to add a quart or so in between changes because the VQ35 eats it.) I have been doing this with my maxima and MDX for 4 years....when I go to change the oil its a light brown color vs. the golden color when I put it in....matter of fact the MDX change oil light doesnt even come on until 6k miles. That is what synthetic is for, you can go more miles without having to change the oil......I just think its a waste to really change oil that often with synthetic.

i agree w/ the replacement of VCs...but unless you are getting a code for the coilpacks, i wouldnt replace them...coilpacks will run you in the neighborhood of $600 for the full set, IJS. i bought a used set of rears, replaced teh one that i was having issues w/, and i'm good to go. i have 2 other used ones sitting in the closet so if starts skipping again i have a replacement to throw in

good to see you back on here though man, havent seen you since the amber foglight days lol

A new PCV valve comes as part of the package with the rear Valve Cover. Oddly, gaskets don't.

You might want to consider replacing all your rubber coolant hoses. And related to that, there are two metal coolant lines that feed coolant around your oil filter... those two pipes are probably pretty rusted if originals.

Seafoam upper-engine cleaning is a reasonable maintenance task.

Good to see you on the Org again, MIK3. :wavey:

he's in Cali...doubt he has any rust on those pipes. no homo

Pretty sure he moved there, and it's not a CA car.

I am with these guys on the coilpacks. It is not exactly a wear item.

he was in New Mexico before that i believe..or soemwhere like that..i dont believe he's been up north. since he's had it at 49k miles...i doubt those oil cooler pipes have suffered rust deteroation (sp?)

Why the knock sensor?

Sounds like a preventative measure, maybe? Of course, by that reasoning, there are a whole slew of sensors you could go broke replacing.

Heck, I replaced my MAF last year as a preventative measure. Of course, you hear far more MAF horror stories than you do for the KS. If I remember correctly, MIK3 already replaced a failed MAF.

With 120k, I would drain and fill the coolant if you never have before. As others have said, I would skip the coil packs unless you have issues with a misfire.

Also I would flush the Brake fluid as this tends to absorb moisture over time.

Reconsider Fuel Filter. Solved my bad pinging, and some of the shift (auto) problems. It was totally clogged with rust.

I am gonna hit 100K pretty soon, this tread is gonna be of great help for me. Thanks OP & all the experts..;)

I would replace the suspension...and what better time to get coilovers?

Please to explain how that makes sense?

i think he's already coilovered up

I hope it gave him improved stopping distance as well, and cured the Bose subwoofer issue.

Agree with most here, no reason to replace coil packs if there isn't an issue....honestly I wouldn't replace any sensor just for the hell of it unless there is a problem. Brake fluid is a good mention, also not related to the engine but you will want to replace the cabin filter(s) if you haven't - I am just under 120k and did the cabin filters recently, jesus I couldn't believe what I found in there.

I would also do the fuel filter as other have mentioned. The decrease in performance is so gradual that you will be very surprised by changing it.

Thank you all for contributing!

I hadn't realized coil packs can last (that) long. I had considered the price, and being that they are so expensive, perhaps I'll hold off. I have no evidence to believe they are faulty. I remember reading a good deal of threads related to both the fuel filter and the KS that involved hesitation issues, which I have intermittently. I can't imagine the the filter doesn't have to be replaced after 123k miles and I've heard good things about replacing it. The KS sensor, I've also read many that have cracked or otherwise stopped working. I need the piece of mind that mine is working well, especially with my advanced timing.
There are two ways to view oil changes (1) because you need to (2) because you want to. The tens of dollars I'd save a year waiting to reach the "recommended" mileage for full synthetic isn't worth knowing that much more dirt is being built up in the engine. It's more preventative than anything, honestly. Knowing that I'm preventing that much more dirt build-up from entering the internals is good to know. Especially with how vital oil is to the entire vehicle. There is either a linear or exponential trend of build up, which means the earlier the change, the better and it's always the case that less build up is better. Less strain on the car = less pain for me, in the end. Monetarily (which I assume is your reason for waiting several thousand), it's worth it for me. Both the piece of mind and knowing there is overall less dirt build up.

Indeed, it's good to be back here (for a while anyway). My ambers are still running strong, btw!

Oddly enough, these pipes all seem to be in good condition. I'm wondering if they are stock (most likely not). And thanks, it's good to be back!

NmexMAX, Rochester is right. Indeed, preventative. Reading through the multiple 5.5 gen KS threads, and with advanced timing, I want to make sure everything is good to go with that. I remember having a lot of related issues to those who saw improvements replacing their KS. And yep, replaced my MAF as well. Did the 2k1 MAF with 2k2 thermistor swap. So glad I found that thread!

Picking up some slotted rotors this summer as well, I'll be flushing too. Thanks for this.

As mentioned, yeah, I'm running H-techs and Illuminas. They're doing great! I plan on having the car for about 3 more years, so replacing the suspension will only be done if a strut blows (or something to that magnitude).

Cabin filters have also been replaced! And yes, there seemed to be a bird nest of leaves, twigs and dirt behind my filters when I changed them. If anything, the change in cabin smell is WELL worth it. Nice to have that clean air smell again from the AC.

Thank you ALL for your input here. This is why the .ORG is such a great place.

There are two ways to view oil changes (1) because you need to (2) because you want to. The tens of dollars I'd save a year waiting to reach the "recommended" mileage for full synthetic isn't worth knowing that much more dirt is being built up in the engine. It's more preventative than anything, honestly. Knowing that I'm preventing that much more dirt build-up from entering the internals is good to know. Especially with how vital oil is to the entire vehicle. There is either a linear or exponential trend of build up, which means the earlier the change, the better and it's always the case that less build up is better. Less strain on the car = less pain for me, in the end. Monetarily (which I assume is your reason for waiting several thousand), it's worth it for me. Both the piece of mind and knowing there is overall less dirt build up.

^^^
That, and the fact that the oil filter is so small, is why I use synthetic and change every ~ 3500 miles.

That dirt you are talking about is why oil filters exist. If the Nissan filter is not big enough to remove the dirt in your oil at 5000 mile intervals, you have much bigger problems than worrying about oil change intervals.

I know we've all heard this before....but size doesn't matter...lol. That's why they make heavy duty quality higher mileage oil filters. You can do what you want. For me I believe between the engine eating the oil and having to put new oil in between changes.....you really don't need a full change every 3000-3500 miles.

thats whats up man, i took mine out and running 3K hids now...gave up the amber because i didnt get the output i wanted:(

I remember that thread! Good times.

Never found a happy place with amber fogs, but I'm still using amber LED's in my parking lights.

indeed it was...wish the HID suppliers would have helped us out :(

I can imagine somewhere out there now there HAS to be brighter Amber LED set ups out there. I mean, they're now doing flashlights that are measured in candle power that are powered by LEDs! After I'm done with this maintenance (the PCV valve, fuel filter and radiator grommets from Dave B today :)) and after I install my new sound system, I will be tackling this search for a bright amber fog set up!

lol ill be waiting lol

Let me chime in too
 

Folks,

I've got an '03 I-35. I run it hard, but don't abuse it. My commute is 150 miles a day, at roughly 75-80 mph. I am at about 147K. Been good at oil changes ( M1 synthentic @5K). Oil consumption was fine until about 130K, now burns a quart in 2500 miles. Would valve seals be an issue on VQ worth looking at? I had it tuned up at 100K. Mileage is consistent at 25-26 mpg (10% lower than shown on the dash computer). I've done brakes, coolant, and trans fluid changed every 40K. Belts done around 80K, will do again around 160K. Probably needs a brake fluid flush.

What I haven't done.... rear bearings.. do they need a repack on grease? I have new struts but haven't installed yet. About time to check the front end bushings..... ( I've heard sway bar bushings get suspect. Any others?) There is a little front end shake around 75 mph, but this set of tires may not be entirely round. 8( Heard mentions of gas filter.. in the gas tank?

Any other things to suggest? It starts and runs smooth. It idles, runs and shifts fine. No overheating, even in NC with the AC on. Hoses look good so far. I'm just looking for ideas to keep it running to 250-300K if possible. Paid for and running is a great thing. 8)

Chuck

Definetly agree on the fuel filter, just did mine at 190km and she feels way better