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2 is fine. Hell, gotta lower it 1.75 just to get the axles level. I'm at about 3. Ripped an original boot on one CV from it flexing the other direction, but no issues so far.
It's been awhile since you worked on my car, possible 4-5 years ago, but now I have a new issue. So my rear Eibach springs snapped, and out of necessity, I had to get the stock springs reinstalled all around, and I still have the KYB-GR2 installed. Now, when I turn the car, I hear some kind of clunking noise, but it sounds like if something was over tightened, if that makes any sense. And I noticed when I open my driver side door, it drops a little, as if it was mis-aligned.
Sounds like the springs are not installed properly. Willing to bet the "OUT" stamp on the spring is not facing outwards.
Should I go back to the same guy, or go to the shop where I will get a wheel alignment? If the original guy did not install it properly, most likely he wouldn't know what would be wrong.
It would be pretty cool if I could find a thick plastic tubing that shrank a bit with heat - to make DIY isolators.
I just noticed your question on this and want to share a technique that I started using 6 years ago on my "heavy old" Q45. It works for lighter 4th gens as well.
It was on a Saturday afternoon when I started replacing the Q45's struts. The original insulators crumbled when I tried to remove then. So it was like "what can I get on a Saturday afternoon to finish this job?" So I went to Ace Hardware and found this braided tubing. IIRC it stands up to high temp water and pressure. This is some tough stuff.
Since the fit is so tight, I had to put some silicone grease on the spring and in the inside of the tubing and then heat it up with a heat gun to slide it on. I'll be the first to tell you that putting it on is NOT easy. Definitely not easy like the snap on insulators. Over time, it appears the tubing shrinks and gets all the more tighter with the spring. If I ever decide to remove it, it will be a job. I may need to use a small torch to get it off.
Many times I try new things and will not post about it for 3 to 5 years until after I know it will work. It has been 6 years for this mod and the tubing looks like it will last another 10 years. I think it will out last the now 25 year old car.
I've used this on other suspension jobs over the years.
Here's how it looks after 5+ years on a 4th gen where I installed it in 2011.
For the next up and coming suspension job, I purchased some Tein insulators. They are definitely easy to install. I don't see them lasting as long as the braided tubing. So maybe I will use regular insulators for cars where I'm looking to setup the springs for a 5 year run. Then use the braided tubing on jobs where I plan to keep the car and springs for over 10 years.
Last July I rebuilt my entire front suspension and also replaced the rear struts.
I used Febest boots for both the front and the rear struts because they looked like the best alternative to OEM boots.
This is what they look like 9 months later:
Drivers side rear
Passenger side rear
Drivers side front
Passenger side front
cracking all over
I am in Southern California and I have only put 5000 miles on the car since the job was done so it isn't an issue of harsh climate or excessive use. This obviously didn't just happen so it is more realistic to say they only lasted about 6 months.
It wouldn't be such a big deal if these weren't so difficult to replace. In order to replace the front boots, you have to get re-aligned.
The company offered to replace the boots but wouldn't comment at all the short lifespan of these boots. They wouldn't say if this was abnormal or anything. They offered no assurance that another set would last any longer. I think the fact that all 4 boots deteriorated indicates that this is not a fluke.
At this point, I wouldn't dare put another set of these on the car. I would suggest going with OEM boots if you can find a deal on them. The rear boots cost about 2x as much as the front.
Can anyone else who has used these boots comment on their experience?
Interestingly when I compared OEM to Febest I felt Febest's rubber was softer / more pliable. And therefore it would be more durable and less prone to drying out.
Clearly we now realize softer = more susceptible to the elements!
Thanks for chiming in. I thought the exact same thing. I was very impressed with the boots when I first received them. But now I'm wondering how could something that comes in such a nice box be such crap?
Do you have febest boots on your car? If so, how are they holding up?
One last thing, could you refresh my memory on why you avoided KYB and Moog boots? I really don't want to spend $100+ on a set of OEM boots and those are looking like the only alternatives.
Fitment was the issue with KYB & Moog. Just not as well as OEM. Also KYB often required the center to be bored out to fit the strut piston. And Moog occasionally were noisy because they didn't sit well.
Has anyone put 4th gen Koni SRT.T's on their 5th gen? Is it the same as with 4th gen AGX's. That is, you need 4th gen front and rear mounts. Can 5th gen springs be reused, what about 5th gen front spring seats? I'd do Koni inserts but the fronts don't seem that secure with two tabs on the top and a bolt on the bottom holding them tight. Any thoughts?
Yeah. I meant can the springs be used with 4th gen struts. I've read at least once someone had a problem with the 5th gen springs seating properly in a 4th gen strut. It was with the Cattman modified KYB AGX's. I read the 4th gen mounts kind of suck so 5th gens have to be modified, plus the bottom mounts have to be stretched or compressed not sure. There isn't much detail, I guess it's proprietary to Cattman.
I'd still like to know the answers but I pulled the trigger on some KYB Excel-G's. I got them dirt cheap on RockAuto. With the $40 mail in rebate and 5% off it was like $240 for all of them. I'm just worried about the supposed harshness...there are mixed reviews. I might regret not getting the Koni's but the KYB's were half the price.
I'm getting ready to install KYB's with eibach lowering coil springs. Anyone know if it's necessary to trim the strut boot to avoid it to bottom out due to shorter coil spring? Thanks
Last July I rebuilt my entire front suspension and also replaced the rear struts.
I used Febest boots for both the front and the rear struts because they looked like the best alternative to OEM boots.
This is what they look like 9 months later:
I am in Southern California and I have only put 5000 miles on the car since the job was done so it isn't an issue of harsh climate or excessive use. This obviously didn't just happen so it is more realistic to say they only lasted about 6 months.
It wouldn't be such a big deal if these weren't so difficult to replace. In order to replace the front boots, you have to get re-aligned.
The company offered to replace the boots but wouldn't comment at all the short lifespan of these boots. They wouldn't say if this was abnormal or anything. They offered no assurance that another set would last any longer. I think the fact that all 4 boots deteriorated indicates that this is not a fluke.
At this point, I wouldn't dare put another set of these on the car. I would suggest going with OEM boots if you can find a deal on them. The rear boots cost about 2x as much as the front.
Can anyone else who has used these boots comment on their experience?
I replaced the suspension on my 99 model just over 3 years ago with KYB AGX and OEM boots. On the inner side (next to the engine compartment) the boots appear to be shredded. I'm getting a lot of noise from the front strut area, so I plan to replace the AGX with some Koni STR.T Orange. I've been running the STR.Ts on the 98 model a few months. I really like the sporty tight feel without being too harsh. So both 4th gens will be running that strut.
I recently purchased some Febest boots to replace the short lived OEMs hoping to find something better. I like the look but if they won't last, I guess I should get more OEMs.
Plan on tackling rear strut replacement with eibach springs. Can someone confirm if I will need to use any of the old parts or will I be able get away with new strut mount kit/dust cover. I learned the hard way and had to use the old top hat for the front strut springs. .
Plan on tackling rear strut replacement with eibach springs. Can someone confirm if I will need to use any of the old parts or will I be able get away with new strut mount kit/dust cover. I learned the hard way and had to use the old top hat for the front strut springs. .
You should be able to use the old top mount but not too sure about the dust boot cause they're usually ****ed!
You should be able to use the old top mount but not too sure about the dust boot cause they're usually ****ed!
This is true. I just did mine and I did them without removing the top mounts; jack up car at jack point, not axle, remove wheel, unbolt the bottom of the shock first then undo the strut nut holding the spring. Yes, there is a bit of tension left on the stock springs, but very little. DON'T try this on the front EVER. If you have a helper to step on the axle to push it down while reinstalling the shock/spring it is super easy and only takes half an hour per side, most of which is spent in the trunk ratcheting the nut 15 degrees at a time.
Thanks for the info. I have New rear strut mount, new boot, new rear struts and new lowering springs. Will I need to re use any of the old parts? Trying to find out if I can just assemble new rear components as a whole new assembly and swap out old strut assembly?
Thanks for the info. I have New rear strut mount, new boot, new rear struts and new lowering springs. Will I need to re use any of the old parts? Trying to find out if I can just assemble new rear components as a whole new assembly and swap out old strut assembly?
You will also need the lower isolators for the springs if you don't have new ones.
Yes, spring has new Lower isolator. Would that be all that's needed to complete rears? I learned the hard way with the front struts, I needed to re-use the metal top coil seat/plate with new strut mounts/boot.
Yes, spring has new Lower isolator. Would that be all that's needed to complete rears? I learned the hard way with the front struts, I needed to re-use the metal top coil seat/plate with new strut mounts/boot.
Is it necessary to grease front strut mounts/bearings? Thought I read somewhere some do as a precaution. BTW, energy suspension polyurethane sway bar bushings made a huge difference along with new moog end links. Solved suspension noise/clunking that I had after the new struts went in. Wow, a must if you still have original! Moog end links have the greasable fittings too, uses 15mm and 18mm to install end links...different bolt size from oem but works just as well if not better!
Hey DJ,
I know you're not in the max game, anymore, but wanted to offer a thank you for all the great info you've provided over the years. I'm in the middle of a complete suspension re-fresh on my 5.5gen and I've read this entire thread and used it for so much information. Thank you!
I have one question that I didn't really see addressed regarding Inner Tie Rods.....
As I mentioned, I'm re-doing all of the suspension components because they are all almost 15 years old (and many not working anymore). However the ITRs appear to be working just fine. The boots are fine, and they rotate fine. The "arms" are just rusty. Is there any reason why I'd need to replace them?
I mean, with other components, you know that if they're 15 yrs old, they are going to die soon. Is that the case with ITRs? Or can these last a long time?
I'm re-doing all of the suspension components because they are all almost 15 years old (and many not working anymore). However the ITRs appear to be working just fine. The boots are fine, and they rotate fine. The "arms" are just rusty. Is there any reason why I'd need to replace them?
I mean, with other components, you know that if they're 15 yrs old, they are going to die soon. Is that the case with ITRs? Or can these last a long time?
Depends..I replaced the inner tie rods on the 2000 a couple months ago for the first time (somewhere around 510,000kms) and one side was in not great condition, very loose and what not, while the other side was in surprisingly good condition with little play. I replaced both with the moog problem solvers. They are not too expensive or hard to replace, here is the one I chose http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....359222&jsn=428
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I have been searching for an hour and am unable to find an answer. My back end has been jumpy when I hit bumps and Ive read its the suspension. I just want to replace it and I'm wondering what I should get(inexpensive)?
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I have been searching for an hour and am unable to find an answer. My back end has been jumpy when I hit bumps and Ive read its the suspension. I just want to replace it and I'm wondering what I should get(inexpensive)?
If by jumpy you mean it bounces it's likely your struts are going bad. Springs will soften but don't really go bad in my experience. You could either get new struts, or buy an all-in-one set that's both springs & struts.
06-20-2016, 07:35 AM
