EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

I know there's a lot of threads on this subject (I think I read 'em all)! But for the sake of all others frantically trying to solve this nerve-racking issue, I thought I'd post my experience here (not knowing if it would be a bigger crime to bump an old thread or start yet another one)

So my car starts pinging out of the blue about a week and a half ago or so. Went from a little pinging which I dismissed as a fluke, to the point it was driving me absolutely bananas every time I took off from a dead stop.

After reading tons of posts (suggesting knock sensor, O2 sensors, cats, idle relearn, ECU reprogramming and on and on), I settled on the advice of replacing the following today:

1) Fuel Filter
2) PCV Valve
3) Spark Plugs

The electrodes on my plugs had been reduced to disfigured little nubs, the fuel filter looked pretty dark in there and the PCV valve was dirty & rattled like a paint can.

Results: Pinging completely gone & Huuuge increase in power and acceleration!

Total cost: about $110, so anyone chasing down the source of pinging, these three things is a very good place to start.... I've ticked this to update in 30 days to report if the pinging has returned or not.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It great that you were willing to take the time and lest us know what fixed a problem. We need more people like you to do that.

I bet that the spark plugs were 99% of your problems. The fuel filter wouldn't cause pinging but it would reduce engine power by not allowing enough gas to get to the engine.

However, you replaced a perfectly good PCV valve. A good PCV valve rattles; the new one should have rattled also. When they get dirty, they fill with sludge, which prevents the valve inside from moving (rattling).

boris

Yeah, bad maintenance also can cause the pinging.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

I'm never going to know what one item exactly solved the pinging, but I made the time for a tune-up and attacked it all at once. I'm sure the plugs were a HUGE part of the problem though. I bought this car in August and I'm sure none of those three things had ever been changed, so it needed it.

The parts guy took a look at my PCV valve and told me it was shot. The new one moves, but not like the old one. The valve on the old one just free-floated in there. I don't know if it's a spring or diaphramm mechanish, but there was nothing on this one Well if it's good, I now have a spare, lol!

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Nice, I really need to do mg fuel filter....

Galactica

iTrader: (5)

All good info here. Thanks! I'll surely remember it if and when mine starts to ping.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

Here's a couple of writeups on changing the fuel strainer (aka fuel filter):
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...up-thread.html
http://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.html

Legendman

iTrader: (1)

Where is the pesky PCV valve located?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It plugs into the rear valve cover on the driver's side. If you stand alongside the car and look past the throttle body, you can see it. My car is a 2000. I assume the 3.5 is still the same.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

It's been just about a couple of months since I posted this thread. In that time, I have ridden the car harder than I ever have, using only Regular 87 octane fuel (mostly from Costco). I have not had a single incident of pinging.

Just a pointer on replacing the PCV valve:
1) Undo the vacuum hose from the line on top of the intake;
2) Grab the hose as close to the PCV valve, and pull straight.

To reinstall, attach the PCV valve to the hose and secure it with the hose clamp; use the hose as an extension to push it back in (I put a tiny dab of grease on the valve's nipple to ease installation). Super simple.

Just one word of caution - that hose tends to get very brittle, and mine broke when trying to reattach the valve. At first, I just ran to AutoZone and bought a piece of hose, but a few days later, I opened the hood with the engine running and the hose was completely collapsed! It would be a good idea to just obtain a replacement hose prior to replacing the valve.

I replaced it with a sturdier fuel hose, but I'm going to order the OEM pre-formed one soon.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

The PCV on the 3.5 VQ is on bank 1's valve cover. Nissan calls it the Rocker cover. You can buy the less expensive 2004 Maxima's bank 1 valve cover and gasket. My PCV hose is splitting and I called a local Nissan stealer for a price..$30...

Gil's03Max

Nissan says the fuel strainer is a non serviceable item so I'm not even gonna bother replacing that. IN-TANK fuel strainers are made to last hundreds of thousands of miles, plus thats a tough job so i think i'll be skipping that one.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I disagree, the fuel strainer is pretty easy to get to on the 2002 Maxima. Here's a link > http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...up-thread.html <

If I could change mine anyone can. I even went back to drop in a used fuel pump.

Gil's03Max

I read you're right up but you consider that easy? Its like a big 20 step process according to your write up, and things are pretty fragile and can get damaged while opening up the tank to remove the unit. Looks like this would take a good hour or maybe more to complete, any who I really want to do this but I'm on the fence right now wondering if the results really make a big enough difference to go threw it and risk breaking something or not.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

With any project you take on, go slow and think your steps through. When I replaced my fuel filter, fuel sprayed from the fuel line on the inside of the car. Good thing it was summer and I could leave the windows open for hours each day. I also had problems getting the filter out of the assembly.

Once you get it done you can look back at how easy it was. -Anyway back on topic.

I wonder if new plugs would help but then again I don't think I'm getting any annoying pining.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Uh, no. You take out the screws, unplug the fuel line, unplug the power connector and the whole assembly comes out. From there everything is just as simple. Things only come apart one way. I never did any of that crap in the write up. Pull the top and bottom of the assembly apart - PRESTO!
I dare say that replacing spark plugs requires more brain power LOL

What's so fragile about it? I replaced two fuel pumps and idk how anything can get broke. I bet I could drop it on the ground and nothing would happen. It's a solid unit.
Put in an oversized walbro and see how fragile it is. Without trimming down the rubber perfectly it'll kick your *** trying to force it in.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Please do not forget to release fuel system pressure before disconnecting the fuel line from the top of the pump assembly. Start engine, pull fuse for fuel pump and allow engine to stall. Then attempt to start the engine a few more times. Also helps to cover the fuel line with a towel or something.

And yes, you can apply too much force which can snap off one of those snap fittings.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

Changed out my fuel filter (first time I've ever messed with the in-tank unit on a Maxima) in 20 minutes. Less than a week later, I replaced my fuel pump, and the second time around I had the new pump in, and everything squared away in 10 minutes tops. It's VERY easy.

I know it seems like a daunting task going into the fuel tank, and I can understand being standoffish in fear of breaking something vital to the car, but I assure you, it is not as scary when you dive into it.

-Nathan

RR5

iTrader: (6)

It's easy if you work on cars frequently. For someone just doing minor repair jobs it's not always as easy. You learn to read parts and know what needs to be done. Most of the time I waste doing car repairs is spent staring at the FSM scratching my head.

Just change the fuel filter. Remember you can always post questions on here and typically get a reply the same hour.