jsmith24

Hi guys,

So, at 239,000 miles, I finally feel that the clutch needs to be replaced. It's all original, and still works, just feels like it grabs really high on the pedal.

Anyway, I've got a few estimates, and for kicks I called the dealership. The dealership's price isn't a whole lot higher, but they say the reason is that they MUST replace the flywheel 99% of all the 3.5 Maximas, because they can't be resurfaced and "have problems".

So, do our flywheels HAVE to be replaced? Since I have so many miles, should I do it anyway? Mine is a daily driver, but obviously I don't dog it, and the stock setup has lasted me this long, so I really don't want to hear recommendations for racing clutches and all that. Nothing against it, but I just want a good OEM quality replacement.

Lastly, is a clutch replacement something I can do on my own? Or do I need a shop to do it? I can handle a wrench, but don't have a lot of specialized equipment.

Thanks,
Jack

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

You can do a clutch job yourself, but you have to pop the axles out and drop the transmission to get access to it. If you do not have the tools and knowledge it can be hard to do yourself. If you do, go for it.

jsmith24

Thanks. I can pull the axles, but alas...no transmission jack or hoist, or even a place to roll in a rental! Damned gravel driveway, no garage.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

I did my clutch on my 02 with 90k miles. I used only oem parts and I feel like it was a great decision. I now have 140k miles and it still feels new. The problem with high performance clutches is that they can have harder and different engagement points. Also an aftermarket flywheel could cause you to have chatter, not worth it if this is a daily driver. I did not replace my flywheel and the dealer is right, a dual mass flywheel cannot be resurfaced. With the mileage you have, you may want to go ahead and replace the rear main seal. It is right behind the flywheel and would certainly be worth it for labor purposes (the seal only costs about $40-50).

I had a lift and plenty of miscellaneous jacks and stands and the job still took the better part of a day. You could do it on the ground but I would not plan on it taking only a day. Download the FSM and strictly follow it. Make sure you have the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and some white lithium grease to lube the bearing before installation. If you decide to replace the flywheel then get some locktite for the bolts (although I believe the FSM calls for you to replace the flywheel bolts with new ones but I think that is overkill). The tranny is pretty heavy so having two jacks may help (one for engine other for tranny). A torque wrench is useful too, especially if replacing the flywheel. Good luck!

jsmith24

Thanks. I wondered about the rear main seal. Let me guess, that's a pain to replace, too...

Jack

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

It is a pane, but it will be easy if you have the transmission and clutch out.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

No, not a pain. The painful part is realizing you have to pull the tranny and flywheel to get to it but those steps will already be taken care of.

jsmith24

Anyone have an opinion on replacing the flywheel?

Jack

mightyMax95

iTrader: (5)

dealer is right... sorta. it's difficult to resurface a dual mass flywheel such as most vq35s are equipped with. go ahead and replace with an aftermarket fw as it will be lighter and cheaper than a an oem replacement. 350z fw is not compatible fyi without mucho modifications to the crank sensor placement.

jsmith24

Thanks for the info.

How would I know if the flywheel needs replacing? I think I can tell if it's cracked, or obviously scored or burned in some way, but what else indicates a need for flywheel replacement?

Jack

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

When my mechanic did my 4th gen clutch and I asked him to change the rear main sela, he pointed out that the labor would be significantly more (+5 hours) because he had to remove the upper oil pan to get at it....and that is after the tranny is removed. Is there some special trick or something?

mightyMax95

iTrader: (5)

at 239k, just replace it. the fw surface has to be refinished to allow proper mating and break-in of a new clutch. not worth it on a heavily used heavy fw. (stock is about 40lbs, aftermarket range between 13-20lbs)

the only thing time consuming is waiting for the rtv to dry. it's maybe an hour to remove and replace the upper pan with the trans already off as far as actual labor goes. even with the trans on it's only 4 extra bolts, so still about an hour, haha.

mech work is billed by the book though. so even if it takes 15min, if the book says 2 hours, you're likely going to be paying 2 hours. eg: book says rear struts are a 6hr job, it can be done in 1. book also says the power steering pump is a 1hr job... the fk it is! lol

q.man06

iTrader: (2)

I had my flywheel resurfaced, so far i've got 50k on the clutch and it's butter smooth. Mine has 223k on it. I'm not easy on the car either, although I never ride the clutch.

You can pull the transmission out yourself, they aren't incredibly heavy on these cars and you don't have to pull out the subframe or anything. I use a cherry picker and a ratchet strap to lift/lower it out of the car-- makes the job really easy. Harbor freight sells them for pretty cheap, cheaper than the labor of the clutch job...

Just find a reputable machine shop and ask them about dual mass flywheels. If they don't know what that is, call someone else.

mbmax03

I agree that you should replace or resurface the flywheel. Price it out online. It may not be much more for a new one. Also, I'd recommend going to an independent transmission shop. All they do is transmissions so they are better at clutches than dealers so they can probably do it faster and at a lower hourly rate. Plus they can use all Oem parts or aftermarket. It would be your choice. You'd save a lot of money going this route. I saved $700 this way with my old Audi

jsmith24

Hi again,

Thanks for all the input, now I need more specific help. I'll replace the flywheel while I have the tranny off replacing the clutch. I need to know the best price for a "stock feel" flywheel. I'll probably go with the Exedy clutch, which, from what I've heard is a good stock feel. It may not last 240k like the stock one, but hey, who knows.

The bottom line is that I want that stock feel back. It's a daily driver, and though I might get a little heavy-footed from time to time, I don't want to sacrifice smoothness for any performance - whether real or imagined.

Best pairs? I've not bought the clutch or flywheel yet, so I'm open to options, so long as it doesn't cost a fortune and gives me that old-time feel.

Thanks!
Jack

mightyMax95

iTrader: (5)

Don't get stage one.

jsmith24

That helps for what not to get, but what to get?

Thanks!
Jack

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

OEM or exedy clutch with OEM replacement flywheel! Exedy makes the OEM clutches by the way. OR, Fidanza flywheel with sprung 350z HR clutch. <- overkill for daily driver

mightyMax95

iTrader: (5)

exedy "oem" is WORSE than oem. get 350z clutch. it is overkill but it has a much better feel and will obviously tolerate spirited driving.

Max_Gator

Here is my two cents.

If you don't have some decent experience and a good assortment of tools, don't try to replace the clutch yourself. If you are going to do it, just understand the effort involved. If I recall correctly the 5.5 has a smaller trans, so it may be easier to mate with the bell housing than my 3.0. That one is a btch..

Second, get the stage one clutch. It is a little stiffer than OEM but is a far better clutch than the exedy oem replacement. If you do go exedy oem DO NOT USE the throwout bearing they give you. It is crap. Go get one from Nissan.