MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

So I've been reading about Seafoam cleaning some and would like to do this but not sure the best vacuum line to feed some of this solution through. I also want to put some in the gas tank. I read a old forum on here from 04' about this but I'm not sure if this applies for 5th gen or all gens. Should I put it in the brake booster vacuum line like mentioned below or shoud I maybe put it in the PCV line?

Here is what I copied from it:

How to use it
1. Run car to normal operating temp.
2. Disconnect brake booster vacuum line (big hose that connects to brake master cylinder)
3. Pour liquid into a paper cup (makes it easier to handle)
4. Start car
5. Dip vacuum line into cup of fluid (do not just stick it in and leave it, it will kill the car. dip it it for a few seconds until you hear the car about to die then take it out. repeat this until you are done. i used the suggested amount which is 1/3 of the bottle)
6. Turn off the car
7. Let sit for five minutes (the liquid will eat away at all the dirt and carbon in the intake manifold, cylinders, valves, etc)
8. Reconnect brake booster vacuum line
9. Start car (you will see ALOT of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, that is all that nasty cr@p coming out. mine had 88K miles worth of nasty cr@p!!!)
10. let car run at about 3K RMPs for a few minutes to get everything out.

Gugs

I'm going to do this within the next couple days myself. =]

IslandMax

iTrader: (24)

The best vacuum line to use is one that distributes the seafoam evenly in the manifold, usually the one right after the throttlebody is the one you want. Dipping the vacuum line into a cup of seafoam is not the right way to do it. What I usually do is disconnect the vacuum line and put my thumb over it, tip the open can of seafoam like im going to pour it into the vacuum line while moving my thumb a little and let the motor suck the seafoam in.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

smoookeeey

ATL

right before the bowl is empty of seafoam, dunk the line and try to kill the motor with the remaining seafoam, if doesnt work use key. let it sit for 15-30 mins if possible then go for a hell ride(a load on the motor works better than revving it, floor the vehicle while going uphill if possible)

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

great, do you know the name of that vacuum line. I haven't really messed with them too much except for the PCV.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

I could not find any but are there any write up's for 5.5 gen, what line to put the Seafoam into? Brake Booster or other line?

Thanks

bennuss

is there any reason to use seafoam since all the gasoline contains ethanol which is a solvent and should prevent carbon buildup?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Fuel does not get injected into the upper intake manifold, where oil will collect and gum due to blowby.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Well after reading some I thought it might help with the rough idle some. A few people metioned that it made there idle way better.

My car has 177k and nothing like that has ever been done.

ATL

i run seafoam just about annually, half the can in the intake, half the can in the gas tank(with 1/4 tank of gas or so). dont know if you guys have ever heard of running 2 stroke oil in your vehicles gasoline, but its worth looking into. heres a quick copy and paste, theres many in depth thread about it on numerous forums. iirc the best thread was on ls1tech.com

"you guys know I test constantly and oil/tribology is my thing so here goes. I know the gasoline today is ****. Very dry and poor quality. Throw in ethanol and you got crap/corrosive gasoline. I use Fuel Power/Lucas UCL with great success in my cars and other peoples cars. At the first of the year some of us "lubrication physcho's" (mainly from the aircraft industry) discussed the **** quality of gasoline and the absolute advantages of running a fuel additive with lubrication capabilities and I think the testing is now complete and the results are very good. Biggest problem we had was the proper amount but we are now satisfied this works very well and you will have a smoother running engine/more power/better MPG....so here it is.....
What we are trying to accomplish ( The deliverables)
We need to lubricate the fuel pump/seals/injectors.
We need to clean the fuel system and scavenge water that ethanol attracts.
We need a film of protection in our fuel system to stop corrosion.
We need a cleaner for our spark plugs/valves/combustion chambers.
We need to clean the ring packs
We need to leave a film on the cylinder walls to eliminate cold start metal wear.
This was my groups short list of deliverables. Of course we knew if we accomplished this list the car should A) Run Smoother B) Run more efficiently C) Parts will last longer i.e. fuel pumps/injectors etc. D) We should see more RWHP and MPG
We did it. For pennies.
2 Stroke oil. Not just any two stroke oil But we needed the detergents etc. and found the perfect oil/add packs/viscosity in a marine 2 stroke oil you can get for under $10 bucks a gallon anywhere. We used Pennzoil Marine 2 stroke for our testing. Here is the "blurb" from Pennzoil.....
------------------------------------------------------------
Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic
Ultimate Protection

Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil is designed for your hard-working, large displacement, high-horsepower 2-cycle engine. High temperature protection is necessary for higher horsepower engines. High temperatures in an engine can cause loss of lubrication, carbon deposits, piston-scuffing, and pre-ignition. The combination of synthetic ester base oils and a premium, ashless performance package in Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil provides protection for high horsepower applications that require approved NMMA TC-W3® oil.
Benefits:
Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil is recommended for use in those makes and models of water-cooled, 2-cycle engines with direct injection systems, oil injection systems or those requiring use of a pre-mix. It is recommended for and meets the warranty requirements of Johnson/Evinrude, Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Force/US Marine, Mariner and others requiring NMMA TC-W3® oils.

Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil:

Performs in extreme conditions.
Provides excellent lubricity to protect against piston- and cylinder-scuffing.
Helps protect against ring sticking, exhaust port deposits, and spark plug fouling.
Biodegradable and low aquatic toxicity.
Recommended for direct injection engines.

Whether running full throttle to open water for that fishing tournament, cruising your favorite waterway, pulling a skier or racing you need an oil to protect your high-horsepower engine. Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil is that oil.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Use 1oz of the two stroke oil per 5 gallons of gas ( 1oz-5gallons/ 2ozs - 10 gallons etc. and that is the perfect ratio. Too much and it will make your engine run worse....too little and it wont do anything.....use the proper amount.....get a little bottle and keep it in your car.....We have seen a maximum of 5% better MPG down to a minimum of 2% better MPG. All of our test mules reported much smoother idles and cruising. No smoking or ill effects. No residue on plugs our pistons....actually the opposite....we saw "cleaning".....I am now comfortable recommending this for all. I also now run this mixture in my GTO/Mercedes/Silverado and G6 with all having smoother running motors and all gaining MPG. Give it a try and let me know your experience. Follow the mixture ratio to the letter. 1 oz per 5 gallons of gas."

Gugs

I wonder how the catalytic converters and the O2 sensors would react to the oil content. Sounds pretty convincing though.

ATL

the cats and sensors do fine at that exact amount of oil. anymore and it can mess with your sensors, cats, and it will smoke

but do your research, i imagine alot of you guys will find this VERY interesting if youve never heard of it before

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

How different is this from the Lucas fuel treatment they sell at Autozone? I use this regularly.

ATL

dont remember the small details, on the first page hes says "Yup....I used Lucas UCL myself and this is better both from a performance/MPG perspective for pennies I got better results over 5000+ miles in my Silverado 5.3"

here is a great thread about it that is 51 pages long and covers anything you could want/need to know

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-91206/

bennuss

Know of anyplace that sells Pennzoil Marine® Full Synthetic Ultimate Protection in NYC?

ATL

i started a thread about the 2 stroke oil so this thread can remain on topic

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...troke-oil.html

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Neither.

Use the small vacuum lead that feeds the VIAS vacuum tank. It's on the passenger-side elbow of the UIM, facing front, right next to the VIAS valve. By using this access point, you can sit in the front seat of your car and feather the throttle so that the car doesn't stall, while feeding the Seafoam up that little hose directly from your lap. It's a far more controlled situation, and you can do it yourself without the help of a second person.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

I never heard about the 2 stroke oil thingy before. Sounds pretty good though, I'll have to do some more research about it.

Looks like I will probably try the Seafoam thing today. I found this video on it here, its kind of a dark video. I'm not quite sure what vacuum line he puts it in.

ATL

ive only owned my maxima for like a week so im not sure which hose that is, or if it is the best; but i seafoamed my maxima last week and did it thru the big vacuum hose coming off the brake booster. it would have sucked up that entire cup of seafoam he had in like 10-15 seconds. seems like taking 2 and a half mins to get the seafoam into the motor, majority of it would be burned off before u turned the motor off to let soak

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,

Is there a picture anywhere where i could relate to the VIAS vacuum tank. I cannot find it in my Haynes manual.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Here you go.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, thanks alot. ^^

DjHackStyle

thats my car and my video, if you look on your engine near the area in the video you'll see the vacum line, theres also a part 2 if u wanna see the smoke show

the hose that rochester recommended is also good, i just used the one near the throttle body because i felt i would cover more of the intake manifold this way since air is coming in from that direction......just my thinking? you can also use the brake booster line someone mentioned it will suck the seafoam much faster, i heard of ppl having problems with sucking up the fluid too fast and destroying an engine so its prolly safer to stick with a smaller hose.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

I need to do this soon....

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Oh very nice man, glad there's people around like you. In the video it show you accessing a different vacuum line to the right of the block, which line is that and why do some people use that one and the one in the picture "Rochester" posted. Which would be safer?

I just picked up some Seafoam from Auto zone, I plan to do this within the next hour.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

It's a 50:50 chance you'll get a vacuum leak code afterwards. You could reset the ECU, or simply wait for it to cycle at which point the CEL will simply go away all on its own.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

I'm not too worried about the code but more so the O2 sensor, ect.. If it doesn't really matter which of the two lines I put the seafoam in then I'll just pick one I guess.

Also in the You Tube video, I could quite see which line that was, I think I have a good idea but not %100 positive.

IslandMax

iTrader: (24)

Does anyone know what seafoam does to o2 sensors and widebands? Would be fun to find out that my widebands been ****ing up because of the seafoam. Btw the nipple you block off when doing the vias delete is not the best place to put the seafoam. On the 3.5 the best place is right after the throttle body (same size nipple as the vias one). It just wont get into the whole manifold with the vias nipple. I usually put seafoam into the (brake booster or pvc line), right into the bend of the elbow, I have a ssim so it gets the whole manifold. I do like the long hose idea, doing it from the drivers seat deff gives you more control.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Here is a picture I just took if someone can confirm that this is the right vacuum line I would appreciate it.

ATL

...

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

OK thanks alot, gonna go attempt this in a few.

ATL

i believe he used the one with white arrow. but whichever it is, it should ultimately lead to the red arrow. the brake booster i used is out of the pic where the green arrow is pointing

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Yes the white and the red do meet thank you, I just added 1/3 of Seafoam, no smoke yet.. Well see how it does after I start it back up in 10 mins.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Car smoked but not too much like I've seen in video's. I drove it after reving it for about 5 mins and I do notice a difference in the throttle response. Idle is still a little rough but not bad.

I will be adding the rest of the Seafoam into the gas tank as soon as I get down to 1/4 or 1/2

DjHackStyle

Yea i used the white arrowed hose,both that one and the vias hose are equally safe i used half the bottle and waited 20 minutes i revved it to like 3k during the first few minutes with a few high revs and let it idle

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

That's your EVAP Solenoid vacuum line into the UIM. Also a good entry point.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

So I just got back from some hwy driving and my 4th and 5th gear seem to be a little boggy.. The car is much quieter than before and I can hear the air suck through the intake a little more when I accelerate from idle. My idle almost seems a bit rougher than before though.. I'll give it a few more days of riding and see, maybe it still needs to gunk out completely.

ATL

if it still has gunk in it, itll prob need more seafoam. if you went on some highway runs, the seafoam has been burned out and its job is done

TallTom

Did the Seafoam treatment this weekend. Went to Home Depot and bought a 1/4" x 10Ft of PVC hose for a little over $2, connected it to the intact manifold port that Rochester posted and was able to keep the car running while sitting in the driver's seat and feeding seafoam into the car. When almost 1/2 can was being slowly sucked in, I put the hose fully into the can and let the engine suck on seafoam until it stalled. I then let it sit for 30 minutes to soak in the engine.

Man, when I took the car out for the clean-out run, I produced a crazy amount of smoke. Neighbors would stop in their tracks when I was trying to get out of the neighborhood.