DavefromCA

So I searched a couple of posts on a couple of forums but those threads were a few years old and wanted to see if there are any new opinions, write ups or diagrams on this that I missed...

I have a 2000 Infiniti I30t, on cold starts the engine is starting to idle pretty rough, when I put it in gear to back out of my driveway its almost surging. Other then that the engine seems fine, no noises or CEL.

From the readings I've been doing, I've decided to start by putting a new air filter in (Its about that time anyway) clean the MAF with special cleaner, and clean the throttle body.

Now there seems to be a LOT of disagreements on just how cleaning the TB should be done. I've read "leave it on and hold the peddle down BUT DONT TOUCH THE PLATE!" I've read just take it off and clean the entire thing, I've been reading about the relearn procedure (does anyone have a write up handy on that the link i tried was dead) Also what tools will I need? I think I saw screw driver, ratchet and 12mm socket? Rags and cleaners...

Any other opinions? I replaced the IAC valve a few years ago, all maintenance has been done and done on time.

What should be my next step assuming this procedure failures? Valve clearance? I really want to try not to start throwing money at this problem until it goes away but I'm looking to sell her soon and I really want the car to be perfect for the next owner....thanks for any input.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

The throttle body cleaning is dependent on the year because 2k and 2k1 have a cable drive throttle system where the 2k2 and 2k3 have the drive by wire. The 2k2 and 2k3 throttle bodies are VERY SENSITIVE and many orgers have learned the hard way after doing some type of cleaning.

However, our 2k and 2k1 throttle bodies are resilient with cleaning. I would suggest hand clean with a lint free rag and B-12 chemtool cleaner. I use this on mine and it works well with no issues.

After the initial hand cleaning get a can of the Seafoam spray cleaner. It comes with a very handy spray attachment which you can use to inject the Seafoam through your throttle body and into the intake manifold. I recently used this on my wife's Explorer and it worked VERY WELL. It was a one person job where normally it takes two people and you can inject directly into the intake versus the brake booster line.

Here is some information on the Seafoam spray.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray.html

I wouldn't take the throttle body off unless you plan on removing the intake manifold as well and taking them to get cleaned in a parts bin somewhere. It isn't worth it in my opinion. Try the hand-cleaning and spray clean first to see how it helps.

Also, the idle relearn procedure wouldn't help your situation. Did you do the idle relearn after replacing the IACV? Usually, that is the time to do it.

MaxxedOutt

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. Also, someone else posted the exact same issue not long ago. Look it up, you shouldn't have to scroll too far down. I can't post a link cuz I'm on my phone. I and others spoke about our experiences with this issue. Good luck!

DavefromCA

Update: Ran some seafoam through the brakes vacuum line....after 2 cold starts car seems ok.

MaxxedOutt

iTrader: (1)

Nice! That wasn't hard. Glad it was that simple for yours!

Aviation005

Dump a can of seafoam (or 3/4) in your crankcase for 200 miles.

will get your engines insides like new

I have done it on my car with impressive results. The oil comes out BLACK.

I have brought my engine back to mint condition by seafoaming, and by adding it to the crank.

The previous owner abused the engine and it was partially sludged. Now I have it perfectly clean again. I can feel it running better. I did a 600 Mile oil change, with seafoaming it, and now the internals are like new. The oil from the dipstick is golden yellow again, and it comes out cleaner after 3000.

I know some people will be against this, but it truly worked wonders on my car.
When had my valve covers done, it was super clean inside as well