5th Gen: What did you do to your 5th Gen today?
12-02-2013, 08:08 PM
#401
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,215
There was a rubbing/growning sound sometimes while turning
almost full lock.
Finally hunted it down to the steering rack...
Is this another common problem? I'm going to put it up and
see if maybe the brackets aren't just loose.
almost full lock.
Finally hunted it down to the steering rack...
Is this another common problem? I'm going to put it up and
see if maybe the brackets aren't just loose.
12-04-2013, 04:19 AM
#402
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 14
My 02 SE went into fail safe last week after some high revs getting up to speed on the interstate. Pulled over, turned the key off and restarted the car and all seemed well. Went into fail safe again on my way to work in the morning and would not come out of it, then started loosing lights and accessories in the car. Towed it home and checked the alternator output as suggested in this forum. Looks like the alternator died and will need to be replaced, so that is on the agenda for this weekend, and it is going to be freaking cold in kansas...
12-10-2013, 03:58 AM
#407
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 14
Change my alternator twice this weekend. Took the old one out and to the parts store and had it tested, false positive. It checked out good, so I re-installed it and still a big drain on the battery when running. Checked and cleaned all the connections, still not working. Took out the alternator and installed a re-man from Auto Zone, all is working great now. Was showing 10+ volts at the battery at idle, now shows 14.6 volts.
12-11-2013, 11:06 AM
#413
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 315
Swapped out rusty old rear shocks for my old ones (that are ok). New rear calipers, pads, and rotors. Should be able to get to the leaking gasket from the coolant feed pipe between the heads done today. Also hopefully seal up the rear cam sensor (leaking)
12-11-2013, 04:17 PM
#416
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,215
The oil leaked all over the control arm bushing.
The control arm bushing vibrated creating a rubbing/vibrating sound
when load was put on it.
I know what I must do now.
At almost 200,000mi everything is sorta going to **** on this car
but I'm fixing it so it's good for another 200,000mi?
12-13-2013, 11:24 AM
#422
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12-13-2013, 03:48 PM
#424
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 315
You pay for what you get....
Been playing around on the Grey maxi too much, finally drove the black one to work. Needs an oil change and since its a nice 8 degrees out, I get to wash her.
Been playing around on the Grey maxi too much, finally drove the black one to work. Needs an oil change and since its a nice 8 degrees out, I get to wash her.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-18-2013 at 01:22 PM.
12-18-2013, 09:55 PM
#431
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 164
On a side note, do I tighten the handbrake with the lever up or down? Meaning I'll have to take out the center console.
12-19-2013, 04:18 PM
#434
235/35/19 all the way around despite the staggered rims. The rears have an ever so slight stretch to them. I'm running Nitto NT555 tires, but if I had choice to go with a different set, I'd look for an all-season assymetrical tread. Rotations suck with staggered rims.
12-19-2013, 04:23 PM
#435
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 315
That was the size I was going to go with. I am tempted to run a staggered tire set up too, but I am not sure yet... 235 front and 255 rear...
I have a set of snow tires and all seasons. So I think I might go for a summer tire for the Rays
I have a set of snow tires and all seasons. So I think I might go for a summer tire for the Rays
12-19-2013, 04:49 PM
#436
I thought about that too, but I shied away from it when I first got tires. The way my rear sits, I'd likely rub with wider tires. I just really need to take the time to re-center the rear axle and that might solve that...and maybe also roll the rear fenders if need be.
S
S
12-19-2013, 05:09 PM
#437
I thought about that too, but I shied away from it when I first got tires. The way my rear sits, I'd likely rub with wider tires. I just really need to take the time to re-center the rear axle and that might solve that...and maybe also roll the rear fenders if need be.
S
S
12-19-2013, 05:15 PM
#438
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 315
You need the adjustable Link. I forget at this moment what it is called. But I have it. Its for when you lower your Maxima or Sentra with the solid rear axle it pulls the wheels back into alignment.
12-19-2013, 05:20 PM
#440
I believe it's in the FSM. It involves getting the car in the air, loosening the bolt that goes thru the links between the axle and the body. Setting the wheels on ramps to load the suspension, and retightening the bolt. Obviously not the complete process of doing it, but really a general summary.
What happens is when you do a lower on the car, the rear axle actually will actually start sitting to one side. It gives the rear the look of one wheel looking like it is flush or even sticking out (usually the driver side), and the other side looks super tucked. The lowering pulls the rear out of spec, so it's just a matter of resetting it.
S
What happens is when you do a lower on the car, the rear axle actually will actually start sitting to one side. It gives the rear the look of one wheel looking like it is flush or even sticking out (usually the driver side), and the other side looks super tucked. The lowering pulls the rear out of spec, so it's just a matter of resetting it.
S