what does this picture infer?
07-01-2013, 06:09 PM
#2
Basically once you hand tighten the plugs and the plug's crush gasket just touches the metal on the head, you only need to tighten the plug another 1/2 to 2/3rds of a turn to achieve proper torque. You'll feel it in the wrench when the gasket crushes completely and shouldn't be tightened anymore. It's the same concept as tightening an oil filter, and many filters have the same instructions printed on them.
Last edited by 02pearlmax; 07-01-2013 at 06:13 PM.
07-01-2013, 07:44 PM
#6
dont need to follow those instructions anyways, just put spark plugs snug with a regular ratchet. dont ream them in with a air gun or something
and yes, i do know a guy that did once
and yes, i do know a guy that did once
07-02-2013, 04:54 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
I do the same.
But many people don't have a torque wrench, in which case you just follow the directions on the box or just know the standard directions for plugs -- hand tighten, then turn 1/2 to 2/3 of a full rotation and done.
Make sure not to over-tighten, but also you don't want them not tight enough as it can cause misfiring. And BTW, I bought this spark plug wrench extension off Amazon, it's like the most popular one, it's really worth it and is simply AWESOME. Does the job better than anything else I've EVER used before on spark plugs, easily a great $10 investment.
Don't forget to gap those plugs to .044, they DO NOT come pre-gapped from the factory (I have the same exact plugs, done a few weeks ago).
But many people don't have a torque wrench, in which case you just follow the directions on the box or just know the standard directions for plugs -- hand tighten, then turn 1/2 to 2/3 of a full rotation and done.
Make sure not to over-tighten, but also you don't want them not tight enough as it can cause misfiring. And BTW, I bought this spark plug wrench extension off Amazon, it's like the most popular one, it's really worth it and is simply AWESOME. Does the job better than anything else I've EVER used before on spark plugs, easily a great $10 investment.
Don't forget to gap those plugs to .044, they DO NOT come pre-gapped from the factory (I have the same exact plugs, done a few weeks ago).
07-02-2013, 07:04 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,798
I do the same.
But many people don't have a torque wrench, in which case you just follow the directions on the box or just know the standard directions for plugs -- hand tighten, then turn 1/2 to 2/3 of a full rotation and done.
Make sure not to over-tighten, but also you don't want them not tight enough as it can cause misfiring. And BTW, I bought this spark plug wrench extension off Amazon, it's like the most popular one, it's really worth it and is simply AWESOME. Does the job better than anything else I've EVER used before on spark plugs, easily a great $10 investment.
Don't forget to gap those plugs to .044, they DO NOT come pre-gapped from the factory (I have the same exact plugs, done a few weeks ago).
But many people don't have a torque wrench, in which case you just follow the directions on the box or just know the standard directions for plugs -- hand tighten, then turn 1/2 to 2/3 of a full rotation and done.
Make sure not to over-tighten, but also you don't want them not tight enough as it can cause misfiring. And BTW, I bought this spark plug wrench extension off Amazon, it's like the most popular one, it's really worth it and is simply AWESOME. Does the job better than anything else I've EVER used before on spark plugs, easily a great $10 investment.
Don't forget to gap those plugs to .044, they DO NOT come pre-gapped from the factory (I have the same exact plugs, done a few weeks ago).
Do you have a link to the spark plug wrench extension?
07-02-2013, 07:29 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
Here is the spark plug socket extension link:
I bought mine for $10 though instead of $14, it was on sale. Just look around and find one. I think the regular parts stores (AutoZone/Advanced) might sell the same or similar item, but I don't know for sure + their prices are usually way high.
And as for the gap, the box will say .044 but it's not already at .044" for the NGK Iridium plugs anyway. Other plugs may be different and some do come pre-gapped but I know for sure the NGK Iridium ones for our cars (BKR5EIX-11) are definitely NOT pre-gapped and must be gapped (that's 100% for sure). Unless, you bought used plugs
I bought mine for $10 though instead of $14, it was on sale. Just look around and find one. I think the regular parts stores (AutoZone/Advanced) might sell the same or similar item, but I don't know for sure + their prices are usually way high.
And as for the gap, the box will say .044 but it's not already at .044" for the NGK Iridium plugs anyway. Other plugs may be different and some do come pre-gapped but I know for sure the NGK Iridium ones for our cars (BKR5EIX-11) are definitely NOT pre-gapped and must be gapped (that's 100% for sure). Unless, you bought used plugs
07-02-2013, 07:36 AM
#12
Every NGK I've purchased has come pre-gapped. Never touched them, been doing plugs since 2000 on VQ's. That's what the 11 is in the name, 1.1mm gap.
But, here we go again with another spark plug thread, etc.
But, here we go again with another spark plug thread, etc.
07-02-2013, 11:04 AM
#13
Nice - I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one fed up by the rapidly declining grammar skills!
07-02-2013, 11:37 AM
#14
. That hasnt been the only one I found to be not particularly close
Last edited by Gemner; 07-02-2013 at 11:40 AM.
07-02-2013, 08:21 PM
#17
im not sure I understand why not gapping plugs is a good thing 
you dont gain anything except maybe 10 minutes total, completely pointless risk to take considering that there is no risk in gapping them
you dont gain anything except maybe 10 minutes total, completely pointless risk to take considering that there is no risk in gapping them
07-02-2013, 09:17 PM
#18
While checking the gap is a no brainer, I've never actually had to gap an NGK spark plug. They've just always been right. And gapping a delicate iridium plug, if you aren't extremely careful, can ruin the electrode or insulator. So there is SOME risk.
07-02-2013, 09:36 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 136
OK,guys. I found this note on Haynes manual:
"On 2000 and later models, the manufacturer suggests that checking and adjusting the spark plug gap is no longer necessary"
I actually measured this IFR5E-11 spark plug, its gap ? 1.1 mm.
Also on Haynes manual, specification section, it says:
"1995 - 2001 engines, gap: 1.1 mm "
I hope this would bring an end to this gapping discussion.
"On 2000 and later models, the manufacturer suggests that checking and adjusting the spark plug gap is no longer necessary"
I actually measured this IFR5E-11 spark plug, its gap ? 1.1 mm.
Also on Haynes manual, specification section, it says:
"1995 - 2001 engines, gap: 1.1 mm "
I hope this would bring an end to this gapping discussion.
07-03-2013, 03:43 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
Gentlemen, let me attempt to really put an end to this hopefully. Found this useful piece on the official NGK website and copied for you guys:
"Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need."
So long story short, not only should you just check the gap to make sure it's correct. It's also a good idea to adjust it accordingly with your mods especially if you've got forced induction.
BTW, forgetting the Haynes manual for a moment. Our FSM says to gap the plugs at .043" instead of .044" just FYI.
Now, the NGK plugs should still be gapped at .044" but just saying, all plugs are different and gap should be checked according to FSM + what the spark plugs say on them + adjusted to your needs if you have mods.
Mine are at .043" w/ NGK instead of .044 and they work better that way on my particular car w/ my mods (my timing is advanced across the board). Just saying. And hopefully this can be put to rest.
So I would suggest that it's a bad idea and bad advice to tell people not to check their plug gap.
Frankly, I wouldn't take some of your guys advice on buying a sandwich for lunch.
"Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need."
So long story short, not only should you just check the gap to make sure it's correct. It's also a good idea to adjust it accordingly with your mods especially if you've got forced induction.
BTW, forgetting the Haynes manual for a moment. Our FSM says to gap the plugs at .043" instead of .044" just FYI.
Now, the NGK plugs should still be gapped at .044" but just saying, all plugs are different and gap should be checked according to FSM + what the spark plugs say on them + adjusted to your needs if you have mods.
Mine are at .043" w/ NGK instead of .044 and they work better that way on my particular car w/ my mods (my timing is advanced across the board). Just saying. And hopefully this can be put to rest.
So I would suggest that it's a bad idea and bad advice to tell people not to check their plug gap.
Frankly, I wouldn't take some of your guys advice on buying a sandwich for lunch.
07-03-2013, 07:22 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 136
Mine are at .043" w/ NGK instead of .044 and they work better that way on my particular car w/ my mods (my timing is advanced across the board). Just saying. And hopefully this can be put to rest.
So I would suggest that it's a bad idea and bad advice to tell people not to check their plug gap.
Frankly, I wouldn't take some of your guys advice on buying a sandwich for lunch.
07-03-2013, 07:35 AM
#22
I always check my plugs and sometimes find the need to gap them because they are off.
Sooo....if a plug says "Do not gap" or shows you a picture to "not gap" what do you do when you find they are out of spec? Take it back to the store and replace it? Yeah...that sounds fun when you are doing work on the only vehicle you have, or if you ordered the plugs online.
Just use the proper spark plug gap tool and you'll be fine.
Sooo....if a plug says "Do not gap" or shows you a picture to "not gap" what do you do when you find they are out of spec? Take it back to the store and replace it? Yeah...that sounds fun when you are doing work on the only vehicle you have, or if you ordered the plugs online.
Just use the proper spark plug gap tool and you'll be fine.
07-03-2013, 02:31 PM
#23
From NGK Website FAQ:
/thread
Q: Do I need to set the "gap" when installing a new set of plugs?
A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.
Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.
Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
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