Power windows don't work
 

I know there are threads similar to this on Google but nothing exact and nothing decisive

Power windows don't work from any panel
Memory seats don't work
Power locks don't work
I don't have a key fob

Power seats, heated seats, heated steering wheel and sunroof all work. Power is getting to the master switch on the door.

What's the cause of this?

Did you check the relays to these components?

I looked but I couldn't find anything. Where exactly are the relays?

The windows get their power from the same fuse & circuit breaker as the sunroof and power seats, so they are obviously OK.

The power window relay is attached to the right side of the inside fuse block. If you take the cover off to access the fuses, you can see it. However, this relay has nothing to do with the door locks. You can swap out the relay with a similar one or put a jumper in the socket. But I don't think the relay is the problem. As a test, pop out any of the other door window switches and see if there is power on them. The switches in any of the other doors have a white wire with a blue stripe. This wire comes from the relay and should have 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the on position.

Somewhat guessing, the master window switch in the driver's door could be bad. The door locks also go through this switch. The switch has a microprocessor in it that may have died. It would be nice to try another one, but these switches are expensive. If you try a junkyard switch, it must come from the same year car, Nissan keeps changing them.

I think the memory seat function is a separate problem from the windows and locks. It is built into the driver's seat switch. There are built in safety conditions that will prevent the memory functions from working. They are:
1) When vehicle speed is more than 7 km/h (4 MPH).
2) When driver’s side power seat switch is turned on.
3) When any two of the switches (set switch and memory switches 1 and 2) are turned ON.
4) When cancel switch is turned on.
5) When selector lever is in any position other than “P” (A/T) or parking brake is released (M/T).
6) When ignition switch is turned to “START” position.
(Operation resumes when ignition switch is returned to “ON”.)
7) When detention switch malfunction is detected.

For a 2002, should the bottom be clear or green?

Bottom of what??? :gotme:

The master window switch

I did not know there were different colors. I haven't seen a clear one myself, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is not the correct one. It's probably more of a different manufacturer than anything else.

Well, if you go on eBay and look for a switch specifically out of a 00-01 it's clear. And if you search for 02-03 it's green. I'm just looking for somebody to confirm

DO NOT get a switch for any other year car than what your car is.

The 2000 & 2001 switch will only work in a 2000 & 2001, no other years.
The 2002 switch will only work is a 2002, no other years.
The 2003 switch will only work in a 2003, no other years.

Just ordered one that i confirmed was from a 2002. I'll let you guys know how it works out

got the switch in today, and i tried installing it. Im still not having any luck. Whats the next step?

Can't install it or installed it and it still doesn't work?

Details please.

sorry. I installed it and it doesn't work. I can hear a clicking in the switch when i press a button though

Could it be the bcm? Or not because the sunroof and seats work?

To get picky with your exact words, there is no BCM in a 5th gen Maxima. The 4th gen Maxima had a BCM, but Nissan redesigned it and renamed it to the SECU (Smart Entrance Control Unit) for the 5th gen.

To answer your question, I don't think the SECU would be your problem. Because of the keyfob remote, it is capable of rolling the front windows down, but not up. But it has nothing to do with the rear windows. It can also lock and unlock the doors because of the kefob remote functions. When you press a buttion on the keyfob remote, the SECU sends a type of data communications message to the driver's door master power window switch and the power window switch tells the windows or door locks to operate.

For the most part, I'm stumped. I kind of wonder if you got a bad power window switch. Also related to this, I saw a photo of a 2002 switch and it had a green bottom on it.

But did you ever verify if the power window relay was working? That was where I asked you to to check for 12 volts on the white/blue stripe wire on the window switches back in post # 4 near the top.

im going to check that this weekend. Im 99% sure that i ALSO had the wrong master window control switch. When i plug the new one in i can hear the relay clicking.

If the relay is bad, is this something i can just get at radio shack? or does it have to come from nissan?

Relay comes from nissan, be aware that a master window switches from 01-02-03 are not interchangeable. The 02 is like the rarest one. I found this out the hard way and after many ebay orders and returns.

U can use a jumper instead of relay like mines
Attachment 27598

wont that jumper make it so theres always power there?

The relay is not something you will find at Radio Shack. The Nissan part number is 25230-79917, list price about $29. You can also get them through rockauto.com for between $16 - $19, $20 - $25 at Autozone. But if you add the jumper, you get the convenience of the windows working without the ignition key.

With that door switch you installed, the clicking you hear may be the circuit breaker tripping and re-setting. I doubt that the relay would do that. If the clicking is happening while the ignition switch is off, it definitely is not the relay.

I keep talking about the white/blue stripe wire that brings 12 volts from the power window relay to the switches. On the 2000 & 2001, it goes to pin 12 on the driver's door switch. On the 2002, it goes to pin 11 and on the 2003 it goes to pin 10. Unfortunately Nissan used the same wire harness connectors on all the different years, so you can plug the wrong switch in. I wish I could tell you how to identify the switch.

The 2000 switch doesn't not have AUTO for the passenger window.the 2001 switch has both front windows auto and a clear/whiteish backing. The 2002 switch looks like the 2001 but it has a green back, if its another color it won't work. The 2003 switch has diff icons on the buttons and a clear/whiteish backing.

Just a little FYI for anyone else reading with power window problems in the future

2000 Switch
Attachment 27592
2002 Switch
Attachment 27593
2003 Switch
Attachment 27594

Can't find a picture for 2001 I'll add one later on if I do find one.

according to what he says, i do have the right switch now. mine is green with both front windows auto. The one i had was the 2000 one. Let me see if i can find my multimeter now

Well this just got interesting...There is 12v at the white/blue stripe wire while the car is in ON. But check this out

http://s744.photobucket.com/user/iwu...4b79d.mp4.html

Im only pushing the lock button here

Ok, now this is REALLY weird.

From the Master switch
Both rear windows go down

From pass, and both rear pass switches, those windows go down.

Locks still don't work correctly, and the driver window still wont go down

Edit: Now every time i press the lock button, it locks and immediately unlocks.

And i do indeed have the 2002 switch

I still think you might have a switch problem but you can verify the driver window is working by removing the door panel and applying 12v straight to the motor, there's 2 pins on it 12v + GND. You swap them around for up and down motion.

Well guys, im not sure if the switch just needed time to start working or whatever it was, but all of my switches are now working and power locks work as well :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Now i've got another problem. I don't have a remote, and i used the power lock button to lock the doors. Now the alarm is armed on it.

How do i disable this? :(

i used the key to unlock my door and when i opened the door, the alarm started going off. After 30-60 seconds or so it turned off and then when i dropped off my passenger and they opened the door, it went off again. Same thing happened when i got home...

When you use the key to open the door lock, it should disable the alarm. Have you looked into key fobs? I got mine for about 4 bucks on eBay. It might help make it somewhat convenient and predictable.
But before you go throwing parts at it, I'd disconnect the battery overnight. Hopefully something resets

well when i went out this morning and unlocked the car, the alarm didnt go off...


Also, now my trunk button doesn't work. Gas still does.

Im thinking it may be a bad ground, is there any guide to where all of the grounds are?

Yes, it is in the Nissan FSM, the Electrical (EL) section, starting on page 19.

link to FSM section - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf

The first 3 diagrams are points under the dash. The very first diagram is shown with the dash completely removed. I don't know if the ground point is accessible with the dash in.

I can recall seeing a ground connection that is not shown in the FSM, so I wonder if it is on my 97 Max. If you remove the driver's side kick panel, there is a ground screwed into the chassis in the vicinity of the lower corner of the door opening, by the relays that are down there. But like I say, that may be my 97 Maxima.

Factory alarm is disabled when you key on the ignition.. Alarm shouldn't be going off when the car is running and a door is opened. I agree on a bad ground or BCM or whatever acts like the BCM.

But afaik the secu doesn't control the trunk. Ill have to go searching for all of the grounds

Would the SECU need to be reset? would i need to go to Nissan for that?

Sorry, double post :(

The trunk opener does use the SECU when opened with the keyfob remote. I'm not sure about the button in the door. That is one of the many little differences between the 5.0 and 5.5 gens.

The SECU can be reset by either disconnecting the battery for 5 or 10 minutes. Give it a try, doesn't cost anything.

Hi guys, I am sorry to be late to this thread, but I have a question. My switch (driver side) is sick: It still works, but only if I use one finger to push on its back side while using my other finger to lift/lower its front side. (Yep, that's not easy). And it only works in manual mode.

Anybody has had this problem and tried to fix it? .... I would love to know before spending $94 on a replacement switch from RockAuto.

Sounds like there are bad solder connections. Nissan has had a problem with cold solder connections since the 3rd gen. But I've never taken a switch apart, so I'm guessing.

Thanks, Dennis. You are probably right ... to a degree, it doesn't matter anymore as I just bought (actually, placed a bid on) a used switch on eBay. Very inexpensive.

After I do the replacement, I may try to fix the old one following your suggestion.