Replace DMF with clutch? + 350z clutch q's
 

SO...do i need a new flywheel with my OE exedy clutch? the car has 250k km (155k miles) and is currently slipping in higher gears at low rpm. i was wondering whether the springs in the DMF get worn out? i saw a video on a new v6 mustang that got supercharged and basically broke the springs on its dmf causing it to seem like a slipping clutch.

now i know i'm not pushing such power but the car has 155k+ miles and i would like to take it to the track at some point plus i do enjoy spirited driving from time to time so what do you guys recommend? is the OEM unit lifetime?

I have been considering expensive options below since the car will be opened up and getting a newer vq35 and needs a new clutch as well. however, i'm trying to keep costs down since the engine and labour alone will cost like $2k. if i can get away with just OE exedy clutch it would be NICE and CHEAP but if i can even get away with just the 350z clutch for extra clamping force that would be PERFECT (i have q's about this in the last paragraph).

i was looking at the JWT clutch/flywheel combo at $750US plus shipping and then on budget (ONLY IF i need a new flywheel) the OE exedy/LUK on ebay for about $660CAD http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-...2d5f80&vxp=mtr


i was also wondering about the 1g 350z OE exedy clutch fitting the maxima but i read some people had troubles fitting? do i have to use a maxima pressure plate with it to fit? and would a DMF with a sprung clutch be too much? i read you either keep the DMF and get unsprung clutch or single mass unit with a spring clutch and not both... please help!

I can't answer all those questions but you definitely want to change the flywheel when you are in there. Especially if you have been slipping for awhile. Trust me from experience you don't want to have to open the whole thing up again because you try to save a few bucks. I tried to machine and reuse my DMF and it was a disaster. I ended up with a new LUK and from Rockauto and I'm happy now. Well kind of. Having never had a MT Max until I did the swap I didn't know what to expect. In hindsight now I feel the DMF/unsprung plate (don't use a sprung clutch) is a little lacking when it comes to aggressive shifting. If I had it all to do again I would have done a nice light weight flywheel and more aggressive clutch.

You want the 350z HR cluch. The non HR use same as the Maxima


Part #: 30205-JK40A for the clutch


Then you need flywhee

Maybe do the rear seal tool

Here are the vehicles with direct bolt on Clutch Disks:

02-06 Nissan Maxima
02-08 Nissan Altima 3.5
03-06 350z
03-07 G35 Coupe
03-06 G35 Sedan

Only FWD flywheels are a direct install, using a RWD flywheel requires a little bit of extra work to have 100% trouble free installation.

If the transmission is off and the car has 250k+ miles it'd be wise to go ahead and go the distance and do the rear main, even though it's not super easy as some people think.

i'm not gonna buy a rwd flywheel lol. the car is 250k km . 155k MILES. The engine is being replaced with one that doesn't burn horrids amount of oil somewhere in the 80-150k km (50-95k MILES) so should i still do the rear main seal?

i understand those rwd clutches are bolt on but i'm pretty sure they are sprung... do you have an opinion on sprung clutch and DMF together?

also is the stock dual mass flywheel a lifetime unit or do i have to replace it every X amount of miles/do the springs in the 2nd mass wear out? the LUK DMF and exedy OEM is like 650 i feel i might as well add 200 and get a JWT combo... but if i don't have to replace the flywheel i'll just do a replacement OE exedy to TRY and keep costs down. once again its 155k miles of use, would it still be ok or is it a gamble?

i totally get the saving a few bucks thing = big headache, which is why i'm considering the JWT combo. however, if i don't NEED a new flywheel i can just use the OE exedy, so thats $250 vs $800+ is more than a few bucks saved lol.

i guess my most important question now to help me decide is will i need a new flywheel with my clutch replacement or leave it at 250k km/155k MILES

Rock auto LUK DMF is $290 after shipping and HST.

It's already OPEN just fix it now... Unless down time is not mission critical for you

On another note, I hope exams went well

so 290 for the fly and 200 for clutch and add some extra costs for shipping clutch so say $550CAD...

JWT f/w $450 + JWT clutch 300 = $750 = $860CAD :eek: i emailed about shipping and christmas/boxing day specials (i doubt it though)

so you say if you had to do it again you'd pay the $400 diff and get that? the only thing thats puts me off is if i sell it i can't part those 2 pieces...but then i can beat on it more, comfortably :D

everything will be open i get the downtime part but what i asked was:

1. is a DMF a lifetime part or
2. do i NEED a new flywheel with my clutch replacement

and if someone could also explain why that would be the tits :spin:

1+2 = Ehhhhhhhhhhhhh........
-Does your budget allow it?
-Do you plan on keeping the car for another 100k?

Your answers to the above should answer your question.

Check for play on the mating surface, and check to see if the surface is in good general conditon (burn marks, weird wear patterns, etc).

You mentioned taking the car to the track and spirited driving which to me means something stronger then OEM. I would've done a Stage 1. It all depends on the individual though, how long they intend to keep the car, budget, etc. Moving to the next level basically doubles the parts price.

The track thing I might go like twice a year. Thing is mrjasonlyrics with his 6g max has been at the track like 3 times a year n some street fun and his oem clutch lasted quite a bit of abuse and I think he still on his stock flywheel. Also he has almost the same set up as me like header back/intake but he got a tune so I dunno... Gonna think about it jwt emailed back sayin they have the clutch but they're making flywheels for early next year/spring so I have some time.

Either way I'm going with new clutch AND flywheel OE or JWT with one side being unsprung. Thanks for the help guys!

^
how long do you plan to keep the car?

well i'm buying an engine for it so at least 4 years plus if i can. its only a 3 season car so probably more. there is no other car i like other than a g35 sedan and those are becoming too common, rather be in a tuned maxima

i'm leaning towards just oem replacement. mrjasonlyrics has been to the track multiple times with TONS of pulls and launches and ended up replacing his clutch 1 time, still most likely on an original flywheel. i'm only gonna go once MAYBE twice a year. the flywheel "adds" only like 6-7whp plus most of my driving will be daily stuff and i do rolling starts with my friends anyways.

i saw your post about the 350z clutch, none of them are the same as the maxima. they are 10mm larger diameter, $100 more, and they are sprung. with the $500 saved i'd rather buy an AFC, wideband and some speakers/woofer instead. oh yea and i need some front rotors/pads too lol i gotta figure out if they 6g brakes or 5.5 cause they BIG... with the 17" wheels i can only fit a business card between the inside spoke n caliper

how's that LUK/exedy OE combo workin out for you?

speaking of sprung clutches and DMF flywheels, i was looking at the 350z/g35 replacements and they have DMF with a sprung clutch. i regularly drove a G last year and the clutch was heavy but it seemed to engage fast... might consider a 350z clutch if thats the case

Here's a good video that explains the benefits of dual mass flywheels and how they're worn, what the free play measurements are to determine if the flywheel is worn... also from LUK :) seems like a legit company

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgBxOOTKxMI

Any other input on fellow 5/5 gen 6spd clutch replacements? Anyone replace flywheel as well?

That combo is just fine. The LUK flywheel is good quality and the exedy is OE so the combo is a good one. It just feels a bit soft on engagement for my preference.