5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Would you buy a 5.5 Gen?

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Old 08-30-2015, 10:18 AM
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Would you buy a 5.5 Gen?

Quick question about the 5.5 gen. Now the VQ35 engine is a known oil burner, but exactly how prevalent is it? I mean, my first thought is to avoid these cars like the plague, but it seems that they are obviously holding their resale value moderately well and people still speak highly of them. I am going out to look at one later, the owner says it doesn't burn oil. I guess I am just wondering if my instincts are right about these cars or if for any reason it might actually be worth buying a 35? I really do like the power of the 3.5L motor, I'd love to have it, is there any possibility of getting one of these cars that doesn't burn oil?
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by soloist3
Quick question about the 5.5 gen. Now the VQ35 engine is a known oil burner, but exactly how prevalent is it? I mean, my first thought is to avoid these cars like the plague, but it seems that they are obviously holding their resale value moderately well and people still speak highly of them. I am going out to look at one later, the owner says it doesn't burn oil. I guess I am just wondering if my instincts are right about these cars or if for any reason it might actually be worth buying a 35? I really do like the power of the 3.5L motor, I'd love to have it, is there any possibility of getting one of these cars that doesn't burn oil?
Doubt it

These cars are reaching 13 years old and being a Nissan resale value isn't high so finding one in decent condition will be difficult. You may see a lot of cars with multiple owners (so signs of problems), poor exterior or interior etc.

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Old 08-30-2015, 12:12 PM
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I'd buy another one.
There are a lot of nice ones in the southern part of the US. My 02 has over 200,000 miles and my wifes 00 is about to roll 300,000. Neither of our cars has a speck of rust on or underneath them.

Mine has never been an oil burner but others have had the problem. I do 10,000 mile oil change intervals. I check it every week and add less than one quart over the entire time. Not bad at all for a 200,000 mile car that's driven pretty hard.

These cars are a very good value for the price but they are getting older. Really though, any car in this price range is getting older. I think you get a lot more car for the same money with a Maxima. Any car this age is best owned by someone who can work on it and recognize problems before they become major repairs. With a 3.5 you're at least rewarded with the performance and durability.

The biggest thing is starting with a good one. If you start with a basket case and need to pay for repairs it'll be an expensive experience. Again, that goes for any car this age.
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Old 08-30-2015, 03:35 PM
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Unless you find a real cream puff from an area where salt hasn't eaten through the body, I'd pass. The dealer or owner can lie and say the engine doesn't burn oil. It would suck to find out your's does a month after buying the car. Buying any 13 yr old car is a gamble.
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Old 08-30-2015, 04:43 PM
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My 3.0L doesn't burn a drop of oil, I'd say look for a 2001 20th Anniversary Edition... That'd be a solid bet.
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:02 PM
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I'm another here to say I've got a 5.5 with no oil burning problems at 140k. I've got some light rust living here in Indiana, but nothing that can't be covered or repaired, so not to worry about.

I agree with the point made above that for its price, if you get a good one to start with, you get a good balance of reliability and performance. At its age, I don't think you can really plan on the car holding any significant value... most in a good state are worth more in the garage or being driven and cared for.
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:26 PM
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Honestly at this time no. Not because I don't love my car. I do love it and its oil burning. I'd buy a G35 sedan if I was in the market again. When I bought my car in 2011 the values were more than double that of an I35 plus I got an excellent deal on mine with full service records and one owner.

If something were to happen to my I35 I'd pick up an early or maybe 05+ G35 sedan. Excellent car that would cost maybe a grand or so more than an I35 or maxima and it'd definitely be worth it. You can even find early G37s in the $8-9K range.

But for now, I'll continue to take care of my I35, its been reliable and I've done a lot of maintenance (especially suspension). If you want a maxima or I35, try to get one off craigslist from a grandma. It may be your best bet and probably the best deal. I wouldn't spend more than $3k on one now (and I paid less than that for mine in 2011).

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Old 08-30-2015, 05:40 PM
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I live in AZ and only buy cars here, California, and Oregon. I have never seen rust here so I don't worry about that at all (unless the car is somehow from the rust belt, which rarely ever is the case out here). I have done engine replacements and all kinds of work on Japanese V6 cars, I am not afraid of little things going wrong, the big things that I look out for are head gasket issues, transmission issues, and major oil consumption issues, the latter of which the 3.5 is known for. Though I feel that at this age MOST of the 3.5's that are burning significant amounts of oil have likely been scrapped or had their engine replaced as very few people that own these cars really pay attention to their engines and would have probably starved it of oil and damaged a main/rod bearing or raised a big enough stink with Nissan to get it replaced.

I LOVE the 3.5, I mean love it it! it has almost as much torque as my IS350, well down about 20ft-lbs, but it's the perfect amount of power for the I series in my opinion. So while it's known for being problematic, I secretly want one, well, hopefully one that doesn't burn oil. I have been looking everywhere for an I30, they are SO beat up, it's so hard to find a clean one, I don't get it, how do people treat their cars so poorly. Every car I have owned pretty much stays in the condition that it was purchased at, save for rock chips and the occasional door dings that unfortunately happen. Most of the cars I see look like they would be right at home in a junk yard, it boggles my mind, especially when they all ask excellent condition price, and seem to actually get it.

I will take a look at some I35's, I like that they come standard with the HID's (without having to get the touring model), though the oil thing is a little scary. I am holding out for a cream puff I30, I JUST missed one with 45k original miles on it that went for $5k in California...I was waiting on my 96 I30 to sell. I guess this really distills down to, how likely is it to find an I35 that DOESN'T burn oil?

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Old 08-30-2015, 06:40 PM
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Bought a 2003 se fully loaded almost 2 years ago. Had 107,000 on it. I now have 140,000. Had a 2000 that I got about 5 years prior(I just sold with 255,000). The 2000 never burned a drop of oil. The 2003 drinks it. God forbid if I drive it hard. I check the oil level every weekend if driven that week. With that said I bought another 2003 se at the beginning of last month. It burns oil too though now as bad as my other one. I really like these cars. I just know I have to keep an eye on the oil
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by soloist3
I live in AZ and only buy cars here, California, and Oregon. I have never seen rust here so I don't worry about that at all (unless the car is somehow from the rust belt, which rarely ever is the case out here). I have done engine replacements and all kinds of work on Japanese V6 cars, I am not afraid of little things going wrong, the big things that I look out for are head gasket issues, transmission issues, and major oil consumption issues, the latter of which the 3.5 is known for. Though I feel that at this age MOST of the 3.5's that are burning significant amounts of oil have likely been scrapped or had their engine replaced as very few people that own these cars really pay attention to their engines and would have probably starved it of oil and damaged a main/rod bearing or raised a big enough stink with Nissan to get it replaced.

I LOVE the 3.5, I mean love it it! it has almost as much torque as my IS350, well down about 20ft-lbs, but it's the perfect amount of power for the I series in my opinion. So while it's known for being problematic, I secretly want one, well, hopefully one that doesn't burn oil. I have been looking everywhere for an I30, they are SO beat up, it's so hard to find a clean one, I don't get it, how do people treat their cars so poorly. Every car I have owned pretty much stays in the condition that it was purchased at, save for rock chips and the occasional door dings that unfortunately happen. Most of the cars I see look like they would be right at home in a junk yard, it boggles my mind, especially when they all ask excellent condition price, and seem to actually get it.

I will take a look at some I35's, I like that they come standard with the HID's (without having to get the touring model), though the oil thing is a little scary. I am holding out for a cream puff I30, I JUST missed one with 45k original miles on it that went for $5k in California...I was waiting on my 96 I30 to sell. I guess this really distills down to, how likely is it to find an I35 that DOESN'T burn oil?
I just bought an 02 I35 2 weeks ago, has small amout of rust but not major, the exhaust parts need some replacing like main cat, but drove it 100 miles at highway speeds 70-85mph and above rides great, and everything works, the ac is the coldest ive seen in a car from that year/ literally ice cold! I check the oil level everyday on most cars i drive.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:59 PM
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for the right price, yes
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jprocs24
My 3.0L doesn't burn a drop of oil, I'd say look for a 2001 20th Anniversary Edition... That'd be a solid bet.
+1!
My 2000SE (3.0L) doesn't burn any oil either. Runs great, and only 131k miles, so I plan to drive for a while.
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:58 PM
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Out of curiosity, what causes the excessive oil burning in the VQ35?
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:14 AM
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VQ30's NEVER had an oil burn problem, the VQ35 on the other hand had problems with its oil sealing rings, or was it ALL the rings? I can't remember, but it was essentially an engineering problem on Nissan's part. Apparently some rings manage to seat and seal well, but the majority of the VQ35 can and do burn oil.

Tomorrow I will be heading out to take a look at an I35 with 114k original miles, they are asking 4795, even though it books for $3900 in EXCELLENT WITH the mileage adjustment. My big concern, how can I tell if it's an oil burner? I mean, I am sure I will smell it out the tail pipe if it is bad enough, but any good way, perhaps taking a rag to the tailpipe? Obviously I can't pop a spark plug out during the test drive For all you I30 owners, you have the better engine, albeit less powerful, I don't think Nissan made a more reliable engine, short of maybe an RB26.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:47 AM
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I think I lucked out on mine. LA seems to have 5 and 5.5's a plenty.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
the ac is the coldest ive seen in a car from that year/ literally ice cold!
Yep the AC in my I35 will freeze you out. Even on humid days the car cools down pretty quickly. AFAIK, the system's on its original charge.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:23 AM
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i had a 5gen and a 5.5gen

the 5th gen didnt burn oil obviously

the 5.5gen only had 90,000kms on it. I remember thinking like you OP "yea i know they burn oil but it wont happen to me! this ones mint and the dealer says it runs perfect! i'll chance it!" the thing drank a liter of oil per week

Man that car stressed me out so much while living on my own, it was my only transportation and I never knew when it would randomly blow up leaving me stranded. I finally gave up and sold it to my dad to use as a second car

I wouldnt get another 5.5 but I'd be interested in a very clean low mileage 5gen

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Old 08-31-2015, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by viking89
i had a 5gen and a 5.5gen

the 5th gen didnt burn oil obviously

the 5.5gen only had 90,000kms on it. I remember thinking like you OP "yea i know they burn oil but it wont happen to me! this ones mint and the dealer says it runs perfect! i'll chance it!" the thing drank a liter of oil per week

Man that car stressed me out so much while living on my own, it was my only transportation and I never knew when it would randomly blow up leaving me stranded. I finally gave up and sold it to my dad to use as a second car

I wouldnt get another 5.5 but I'd be interested in a very clean low mileage 5gen
JUst wanted to know what weight oil u were using? Did you try switching to a different or thick oil?
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
JUst wanted to know what weight oil u were using? Did you try switching to a different or thick oil?
i was using the recommended 5W30 and was hesitant to go with a thicker one cause im in Canada and have a lot of -20C morning start ups
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by viking89
i was using the recommended 5W30 and was hesitant to go with a thicker one cause im in Canada and have a lot of -20C morning start ups
oh ok
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by viking89
i had a 5gen and a 5.5gen

the 5th gen didnt burn oil obviously

the 5.5gen only had 90,000kms on it. I remember thinking like you OP "yea i know they burn oil but it wont happen to me! this ones mint and the dealer says it runs perfect! i'll chance it!" the thing drank a liter of oil per week

Man that car stressed me out so much while living on my own, it was my only transportation and I never knew when it would randomly blow up leaving me stranded. I finally gave up and sold it to my dad to use as a second car

I wouldnt get another 5.5 but I'd be interested in a very clean low mileage 5gen
This IS exactly what I am talking about ^ The stress level of buying a 5.5G once you find out it drinks oil, it almost seems like too much for me. I easily stress out about how my car is doing. I will take a look at the ONE I35 later today, but yeah, you literally just convinced me to go with what I know, which is to stick with the I30.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:31 PM
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to echo whats been said:
vq30 didnt have oil burning issues
vq35 DID (some believe it was shoddy piston rings)
if you find a good condition 5.5, use a heavier oil and a catch can is your friend.
i'd buy another 5.5 gen in.a.heartbeat
at this time, finding a good cond 5.5 WILL be an issue. many have just
been beat to death. anything in the northeast should be ignored (the rust isnt worth the time)
5.5 gen WAS the best looking maxima to date (they're actually getting uglier).
2003-last year made in japan
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:13 PM
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I thought I should join the fray and say that not all 5.5 gens burn oil! I have an '02 Maxima GLE and an '03 Maxima SE, and both do not burn oil. It may be due to the relatively low mileage (96K and 77K respectively), but they run great and show no signs of it. I use 10W30 Pennzoil / Castrol high mileage which I change religiously every 3 months. I've had both 5th and 5.5 gens, and I have a real preference for the extra horsepower that the 5.5 gen delivers. Also, 5th gens have their issues with failing coil packs, IACs, and ultimately ecu death due to the failed IAC. I also don't like the wheels on the 5th gen maxima / i30. Anyway, I'm in Philly, and there are plenty of clean 5th and 5.5 gens around. My biggest problem with buying used maxima's of this age has been lack of tranny fluid maintenance. I've had to rescue the transmissions on both of my maxima's due to previous owners burning up the fluid. I'm truly convinced that God himself created Lucas Oil Transmission Fix!
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:28 PM
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Yeah, the reason I am looking at the 5g I30/I35 is because I love the look and the interior design SO much better than newer cars. The 2nd generation IS350 looked great and the 2013+ Accord (sedan and coupe) look great, but aside from those exceptions I can't think of much I actually like past 2002.

Well, I found another I30 for sale, 115k miles, but the guy is asking 4400 and it's a 2000 model, excellent book is like 2900 and he says he is FIRM on 4400, I don't get it, am I missing something? Who pays 1600 over top book? I told him I could meet him half way, in the 3600-3700 range, he said no deal. Man, idk, I bought an 03 Maxima in early 2014 with 90k miles on it for 4k, and it was a cream puff (got t-boned within a month ) but another year and half has gone by, the car I am looking at is 3 years older AND has almost 30k more miles on it. The ****ty thing is, the guy will probably get it as everyone is asking a ton for these cars lately. Now the big problem, seeing if I can get someone to check it out before heading out there, it is 400 miles away...which I don't mind driving but it's a long drive to find out it's not quite as it seems. Any of you guys live in the LA area that might want to help a fellow Maxima/I30 enthusiast out and maybe make a few bucks?
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Old 08-31-2015, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by soloist3
VQ30's NEVER had an oil burn problem, the VQ35 on the other hand had problems with its oil sealing rings, or was it ALL the rings? I can't remember, but it was essentially an engineering problem on Nissan's part. Apparently some rings manage to seat and seal well, but the majority of the VQ35 can and do burn oil.

Tomorrow I will be heading out to take a look at an I35 with 114k original miles, they are asking 4795, even though it books for $3900 in EXCELLENT WITH the mileage adjustment. My big concern, how can I tell if it's an oil burner? I mean, I am sure I will smell it out the tail pipe if it is bad enough, but any good way, perhaps taking a rag to the tailpipe? Obviously I can't pop a spark plug out during the test drive For all you I30 owners, you have the better engine, albeit less powerful, I don't think Nissan made a more reliable engine, short of maybe an RB26.
Why can't you pop the plugs? Just tell the owner, after the test drive you want to come back and pull the plugs for an inspection. Of course the car will have to be cool, but what's the big deal? If you are seriously considering a 3.5,i would insist on a leak down and pressure test. If the owner gives you flack, pass on the car.

Originally Posted by soloist3
Yeah, the reason I am looking at the 5g I30/I35 is because I love the look and the interior design SO much better than newer cars. The 2nd generation IS350 looked great and the 2013+ Accord (sedan and coupe) look great, but aside from those exceptions I can't think of much I actually like past 2002.

Well, I found another I30 for sale, 115k miles, but the guy is asking 4400 and it's a 2000 model, excellent book is like 2900 and he says he is FIRM on 4400, I don't get it, am I missing something? Who pays 1600 over top book? I told him I could meet him half way, in the 3600-3700 range, he said no deal. Man, idk, I bought an 03 Maxima in early 2014 with 90k miles on it for 4k, and it was a cream puff (got t-boned within a month ) but another year and half has gone by, the car I am looking at is 3 years older AND has almost 30k more miles on it. The ****ty thing is, the guy will probably get it as everyone is asking a ton for these cars lately. Now the big problem, seeing if I can get someone to check it out before heading out there, it is 400 miles away...which I don't mind driving but it's a long drive to find out it's not quite as it seems. Any of you guys live in the LA area that might want to help a fellow Maxima/I30 enthusiast out and maybe make a few bucks?
He's dreaming....never get 4400 unless there are 10 one-hundred dollar bills in the trunk.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:01 PM
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Wow I wish I could get one as cheap as you guys are talking. 04 i35 with 125,000 miles is for sale for $10,900 right up the street from me. Another 03 i35 just sold for $9,000. My 03 3 auto I got with 107,000 miles for $5,400 and it was the cheapest here by a long shot. It needed some work. Put $1,500 back in it. My newest 03 manual I got for $6,100 with 102,000 miles and I also have another 1,000 in it and it still needs a new clutch

Also a 02 se auto that has been wrecked and very poorly put back together just sold for $5,000. I looked at it and he wanted to much for it in the condition it was in. It sold a week later. That guy was firm on that price too

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Old 08-31-2015, 08:23 PM
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I have an '02 GLE with about 117k miles on it that purchased with about 29k on it. Doesn't drink a drop of oil. I'd buy another in a heartbeat and regularly check online for low mileage 5.5 gens in my area.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:07 PM
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My policy on cream puff used cars is, I take the max private party value and add to it given the rarity of the car. A maxima/I30/I35 are a dime a dozen, now if it is a 6MT, things obviously change as they are more desirable, and provided you find the right person, could command more money. Though a Maxima GLE/I30/I35 auto in great shape is worth 500-600 over top book to me. Now a 2000-2001 model with the 3.0 to MOST people is less desirable (due to the lack of power and older MY), but EITHER WAY, we are talking about a 15-16 year old car (as 2000's are made as early as 1st/2nd quarter of 1999). Unless it's a R34 Skyline GT-R, Supra Turbo, 300ZX turbo, Evo, WRX, or another "collectible" sports car, it is going to depreciate at a pretty standard rate. For me, once you pass into the 4-5k plus range on something 15-16 years old, I start thinking about newer cars with less features, for the reason that I simply cannot justify the cost. Despite really loving these cars, I guess what it comes down to is I am unwilling to seriously overpay for something, even if I desperately want it.

On another note, took a look at the 2002 I35 today, 112k miles, supposedly cream puff, guy was asking $4800, front seat motors were broken (common problem), seat torn fairly badly, trunk misaligned with paint work suggesting rear end collision, BAD swirls all over the car (like someone washed it with steel wool), A/C weak, and I could smell oil being burned from the tail pipe (didn't even bother checking it as I had made up my mind by then). The plus is, the car DID have clearcoat on it (which is rare in AZ, most cars at this age look like they got hit with a flame thrower). Also, the car was relatively smooth (though it needed the upper passenger side motor mount. That car was in "good" shape, maybe...which books out for something like 3000 (b/c the miles and the fact that it is a 2002 I35).

Came to a conclusion with the I30/35, the power isn't THAT much better on the 35, I mean yes, it pulls a little harder but it's not like night and day, that combined with the oil consumption issue (which isn't present on all of them), the worse gas mileage and the fact that it is attached to a relatively docile 4 speed auto (which takes it's time to shift and leaves the torque converter more unlocked than I would like) just makes the I30 my choice. That is, unless some unreal deal on an I35 happens, I will probably steer clear of them.

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Old 09-01-2015, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by soloist3
My policy on cream puff used cars is, I take the max private party value and add to it given the rarity of the car. A maxima/I30/I35 are a dime a dozen, now if it is a 6MT, things obviously change as they are more desirable, and provided you find the right person, could command more money. Though a Maxima GLE/I30/I35 auto in great shape is worth 500-600 over top book to me. Now a 2000-2001 model with the 3.0 to MOST people is less desirable (due to the lack of power and older MY), but EITHER WAY, we are talking about a 15-16 year old car (as 2000's are made as early as 1st/2nd quarter of 1999). Unless it's a R34 Skyline GT-R, Supra Turbo, 300ZX turbo, Evo, WRX, or another "collectible" sports car, it is going to depreciate at a pretty standard rate. For me, once you pass into the 4-5k plus range on something 15-16 years old, I start thinking about newer cars with less features, for the reason that I simply cannot justify the cost. Despite really loving these cars, I guess what it comes down to is I am unwilling to seriously overpay for something, even if I desperately want it.

On another note, took a look at the 2002 I35 today, 112k miles, supposedly cream puff, guy was asking $4800, front seat motors were broken (common problem), seat torn fairly badly, trunk misaligned with paint work suggesting rear end collision, BAD swirls all over the car (like someone washed it with steel wool), A/C weak, and I could smell oil being burned from the tail pipe (didn't even bother checking it as I had made up my mind by then). The plus is, the car DID have clearcoat on it (which is rare in AZ, most cars at this age look like they got hit with a flame thrower). Also, the car was relatively smooth (though it needed the upper passenger side motor mount. That car was in "good" shape, maybe...which books out for something like 3000 (b/c the miles and the fact that it is a 2002 I35).

Came to a conclusion with the I30/35, the power isn't THAT much better on the 35, I mean yes, it pulls a little harder but it's not like night and day, that combined with the oil consumption issue (which isn't present on all of them), the worse gas mileage and the fact that it is attached to a relatively docile 4 speed auto (which takes it's time to shift and leaves the torque converter more unlocked than I would like) just makes the I30 my choice. That is, unless some unreal deal on an I35 happens, I will probably steer clear of them.
smart man. the extra hp pull isnt worth the stress
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:47 PM
  #30  
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For the right price id buy another one in a heartbeat! Here in the south they sell pretty cheap in most areas. THe 2000 i30 i was looking at needed too much work, plus over 200K miles. I originally didnt want an i35, I was looking a 99 Lexus es300 which had more miles than the 02 I35 I bought. But because it was a lexus/toyota known to be reliable I was gonna buy it, but someone beat me to it. Didnt think i was gonna like the i35 because Ive read about the issues with the 3.5 engine, but fact that it was fully loaded and everything worked inside, one owner most of its life. I bought it. $2000 was the asking price, I offered $1400, then found an exhaust leak and offered $1300/ sold.
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