2000 maxima turns over no start multiple codes
 

ok my son's maxima will turn over but won't start. I can hear the fuel pump pressurize. If I spray starter fluid in the engine it wants to start but doesn't actually start. I bought a set of noid lights and don't have any power at the harness. I have never worked on this type of motor nor anything with obd11. I bought a scanner and pulled the following codes:

P0180 fuel temp sensor a circuit
P0430 catalyst system efficiency below thresehold bank 2
P0139 o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 2
P1610 lock mode
P1614 chain of I mmu-key
P1165 swl con vc switch 1 circuit
P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 1
P0140 o2 sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor2
P0464 fuel level sensor a circuit intermittent
P0180 fuel temperature sensor a circuitconfirmed
P0430 catalyst system effieiency below threshold bank 2
P0139 o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 2confirmed
P1165 swl con vc switch/circuitconfirmed
P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank1 sensor 2confirmed
P0140 o2 sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor2confirmed
P0464 fuellevel sensor circuit intermittentconfirmed
P0180 pending
P0430 pending
P1610 pending
P1614 pending
P1165 pending
P0464 pending
The codes came up in the exact order. Now what? I need help please
Thanks in advance for any help

The P1600 codes are the ones telling you why the car won't start.

These codes are related to the NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) which is the chip in the ignition key. For some reason the sensor in the steering column is not sensing the RFID chip in the key or not sensing a valid, previously programmed chip.

Here on maxima.org, we call this "being immobilized". When this happens, the ECU turns off the fuel injectors. The red led in with the clock should be on when you have the key in the ignition switch.

Assuming you are using a key that has always started the car and not some other key you may have had, the most likely problem is the receiver module in the steering column next to the ignition switch has failed.

If you have been using a key that is not programmed into the ECU, the car may not start even with the correct key. After a certain number of attempts to start the car with an invalid key, the ECU is programmed to not let the car start.

If it was a wrong key type of situation, there is a procedure you can do to get the car to start:
a) Leave the ignition key in “ON” position for approximately 5 seconds.
b) Turn ignition key to “OFF” or “LOCK” position and wait approximately 5 seconds.
c) Repeat step 1 and 2 again.
d) Restart the engine while keeping the key separate from any others on key-chain.

As for the other codes, some of them may disappear when you get the engine started. Sometimes you have a part that is in effect telling you that another part has a problem. Fix the real problem and the others go away. Some codes will go away immediately and others will take several days. I hope the OBD scanner you bought will clear codes so you don't have to wait and see.

Here is a link to the Nissan service manual for the NATS stuff:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000/EL.pdf - see page 321.

Dennis thanks so much for the response! So I tried the sequence that you gave me twice with no luck. I later found out that the key I was using as been the only key that has ever been used to start this car for years... Now what? I really hope this is an easy fix... lol

Based on the info Dennis provided and what is in the FSM it sounds like the key is in locked out and won't let you start it. You may have to take it to the dealer...that's a bummer.

If you want to try getting the keys re-programmed, it will be a kind of an expensive experiment. Programming the keys to the ECU may or may not be the solution.

If you go this route, you have 2 choices - have the car towed to the dealer for them to do it or you can call a local locksmith to come to your house and do it. The local locksmith will be 25 to 50% cheaper than the dealer, but if programming doesn't work, that is the end of anything they can do to help you. The dealer can do more, they can use their CONSULT tester and pinpoint the problem.

I've never had to try to diagnose a NATS problem, so I can't make any guaranteed to work statements. Your other option is to replace the RFID receiver in the steering column. You could get one from a junkyard to reduce costs. If you did have a bad receiver and replaced it, I don't know if the car would start right up or if you would have to do the reset procedure I posted or if you would have to get the keys re-programmed. I hope someone else can add their experience on this.

UPDATE.... I found the one spare key we had and put it in and the SOB fired right up... I took the key we had been using apart and the battery was fine we I measured it with a meter.... at least we have it running now.... Thanks everyone for your help... I might be back later with some new codes.... I erased the all the codes and will check the car again for codes in a week.... Can't tell you how much you guys helped me... I really appreciate your help...It would have taken me a heck of a lot longer to figure it all out....now this old man is gonna go out and sit in my deer blind....Thanks again...

Cool...now you can take the car to a locksmith and get the other key programmed just in case!

Let us know about the codes...most of them should not return, but some will.

People really just gotta start buying datscan II...

That would be wonderful, but when you can't get people to buy a $10 voltmeter, it's going to be real tough to have them get a datascan.

Especially for cars that are over 10 years old...

But it pays for itself in one use. I don't understand how people neglect to see that. With a cable it was $65.