No spark, no fuel...no codes HELPPP
 

I have searched and searched...I've always read and gotten all my answers since I've joined the maxima community..I've pretty familiar with 4th and 5th gens but this has me stumped.

I have an 02 maxima that was running perfectly and then didn't want to start...no codes... I had no spark so I changed crank as well as cam sensors as I had working spares...at this point I checked for fuel and didn't have that either. The security light used to blink but i didn't see it blink nor was it solid when cranking. At this point I thought it was something with the security system. I had it towed to a local mechanic he said my aftermarket alarm was causing the problem...it was removed a new key was purchased and programmed...still same problem. He thought the alarm messed up the ECU, so I got a another one programmed key and still same problem.

At this point I let him check a few other things and decided to work on it myself since it was there 3 weeks.

I've read about ignition switches going bad, but the car IS cranking.I've checked and swapped fuses, relays and also programmed keys...

I'm picking up a multimeter tomorrow from storage. What if anything should I look for either at the ECU side or harness at the injectors coils etc...

As it stands, the car is completely stock electrical wise. I'm looking at ignition, IMMU and BCM. There's a local upull that has two 02s at the yard, I'm going to see if I can pull these and swap them out and see if I get anywhere. I downloaded NissanData scan and have a usb obd in case I need to program keys ...any help would be greatly appreciated.

Your description is pretty chaotic. Too much about solutions, and very little about the problem. So, slow down, and focus on the current problem.
It seems that your car does not want to start. More accurately, it "cranks, but does not start", correct? If so, let's get the relevant facts:

• Battery voltage when engine not running - what is it?
• Battery voltage when engine running - what is it? (I realize the car does not want to start. Not even with a boost?)
• Status of security light when cranking (ON/OFF/Blinking) - what is it?
• Your aftermarket alarm system has been removed and all wiring returned to original/OEM condition - RIGHT/WRONG?

Let us know what the answers are, and we'll move on from there.

Sorry about that, I just started typing and kept going.

The car cranks, but I have no spark and no fuel.

I'll check voltage tomorrow when I have the multimeter. It should be charged as I asked the mechanic charge it for me at the shop before I picked it up.

When cranking security light is off.

All wiring returned to OEM condition.

Voltage when not on is 12.6v

Pulled another working crank and cam sensors from brother in laws maxima still nothing.

I did get P0335 for crank sensor...I even changed the sub harness and nothing. Not sure if I'm getting this because I just keep cranking without turning over.

Car just keeps cranking....

What do you mean by "cranking without turning over"? This statement does not make any sense; perhaps you mean that the engine is turning, but does not fire? Also, your starter needs to be turning the engine reasonably fast - is it?

At any rate: if you are getting P0335, then check the following (from the EC section of the FSM):
- Harness or connectors (the crankshaft position sensor (POS) circuit is open or shorted),
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS),
- Starter motor,
- Starting system wiring/connectors,
- Dead (Weak) battery.

Since your already replaced the CAM and CRANK sensors, my bet is that your starter (or the associated wiring) is bad.

The P0335 says the ECU is not getting a signal from the crankshaft sensor. Without this signal, the ECU will not turn the fuel pump on and it will not tell the ignition coils to fire.

All the things maxiiiboy posted above are valid.

If the engine is not cranking over fast enough, the signal pulse from the crankshaft sensor will not be powerful enough for the ECU to detect. Cranking speed is about 350 rpm.

If you set your voltmeter on AC volts and measure across the 2 crankshaft sensor wires, you should get some reading. This is not an accurate way of measuring this, but there should be a low voltage reading of less than one volt (I think). This tells you the sensor is not dead, but it is not a 100% guarantee that it is good.

Cranking as in the starter is engaging..not turning over meaning doesn't turn on.

I've swapped working crank sensors in as well as the harness fornthe crank sensor.

I've charged the battery as well.

I'll look into the starter and wires tomorrow morning.

Changed to another ECU
Changed BCM
Changed IMMU
Programmed new keys myself with DataScan
Checked all relays and fuses swapped a few out
Changed Starter
Added grounds
Changed CAM and Crank Sensor...also harness to crank sensor
Check fuel pump and pressure getting fuel to the rails ok

Security light is NOT solid...it blinks with key out and does NOT turn solid when cranking. I did try a non chipped key to see if it would turn solid and it does...with programmed key everything is functioning as it should be.

I was getting P0355 crankshaft sensor, but not getting any codes now

NOT GETTING Spark (no signal) all coils have power and ground.

NOT getting fuel (no signal) to injectors.

I highly doubt it's ECU I've swapped 4 out and have had the same issues..even put them back into the car they came from and no issues... I'm checking continuity between wires on the harness now as well....am I missing something on the immobilizer part that not letting the ECU send signal to coils and injectors??

I'm reading crank sensor both singular and plural. so how many were changed? both ref & pos? just trying to be clear!

Both cam sensors bank 1 and 2 as well as the crank sensor with oem nissan from a working car. They were put back into working car and everything fired right up @nitromax

I think what nitromax is getting at is that there are 2 crank sensors (pos and ref) also. He is confirming that you replaced both and not just one of them. If the answer is yes and thatsd the only code you are getting I would suggest using the multimeter to check the harness wires are providing proper signals (i.e. voltage). If you have the fsm this is a good place to start. Good luck.

02 only has one(crank sensor ) and two cam sensors whereas 00-01 have two (crank sensors ) and only one cam sensor :gotme:

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?

Also open the access hole on the trans and look at your signal plate for any damages although it might be a long shot...

Unplug crank sensor and see if it will start. It's not needed, so if there's a fault somewhere in that, then it should start after a few secs.

Correct it's am 02 so 2 cam and 1 crank. All have been swapped out with oem working sensors.

I'm getting fuel to the rails, the injectors are not receiving signal so there not shooting.

I unplugged the crank sensor same problem. When I had the starter out I looked at the flywheel, it looked fine no wobble teeth were intact .

I've also checked wires for continuity from engine bay to ECU and everything seems fine.

I know the problem is no signal from the ECU, but it's not the ECU that's bad. I've changed it several times with working ones and have put them back into the cars they've come from and they work perfectly fine.

The immobilizer system accepts the key and the light is NOT solid, is there another part to the immobilizer system that Im missing?

my apologies, completely missed the "02 maxima" as I was skimming.

Let me start by saying I am no electrical guy but I have had electrical issues in the past that have bitten me by overlooking the little things.

Have you checked fuses/relays?
You checking signals directly at the ECU or at the sensor connectors (from ECU)? I would recommend check both to help eliminate any possibilities.

Fuses and relays are in working order.

I've checked for signal at the ECU, crank sensor, injectors, and coils. Crank sensor is fine no signal from wire at ECU, at injectors, or coils.

Something is stopping the ECU from sending the signal out....I've tried it on the other cars, and the ECU sends the signal out to injectors and coils just fine.

This is weird since you say there's continuity! But are you sure ?
All this troubleshooting you've done concludes the harness is at fault :banghead:

I'm going to.double check the harness Saturday when I'm off and have more time to mess with it..

I'm just lost at this point..for all 6 injector wires and coil wires to go bad at once. I'll check them one by one. I did the front bank only I'll check the rear on Saturday

It looks like your car is in "NATS Lock" state. This happens when you try to start it too many times with the wrong key (or other wrong things).

Here is the procedure to escape from NATS lock:

1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.

For additional details, see the diagnostic procedure on page EL-326 of the FSM (this is for my 2k Maxima, your 2002 might be a few pages off).

He said the light wasn't on...but maybe NATS module is just dead.

Yes .... and I am not sure whether the light should be ON or OFF in the Lock state. However, the procedure is simple enough that it's worth trying and seeing what the result is.

Should be on solid afaik.

According to FSM it should be solid. I've swapped out the ECU and reprogrammed keys though, if it were in lockout mode wouldn't this correct the problem?

Edit: I also changed the NATs module at the key ring.

Double checked this morning...I have continuity to coils, injectors..all sensors. I went one by one on them this morning...

Everything is working as it should except the signal to coils and injectors to fire.

You can do this with DataScan?

I'd have to ask the community if the PNPrelay(INHIB) could cause this ?
You can probe the 1&2 prongs right and check for closed/open circuit?

Yes, under work support. Most 03 and older use 5523 as the pin, not sure about newer models.

I changed the PNP relay, it's in working order. From my understanding it wouldn't let the starter engage if it were bad.

sounds like a NVIS/NATS issue.

This is what happens when your locked out? It cranks but won't start?

If the car is in NATS lockout, the engine cranks, the spark plugs spark but the ECU does not fire the fuel injectors.

Sounds like you need to enter a security key.

Why won't the car start?

When you swap ECM have you ever swapped one with out disconnecting the negative battery terminal first?

I've swapped out ECU and reprogrammed the keys to the new ECU....

I was looking at the pin out at noticed that 110/112 are not constant...they only have power when I have the key to the ON position


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....06f914d937.png

The only way I can help is to say don't waste your time reading what maximatech12 is writing. He doesn't have a clue what he's talking about and is guessing out of his ***

I wasn't suggesting that to be the issue I was just asking a question . i am interested in this software he's illustrated for my maxima . I've had to do what he's doing now before but not on this machine. I eventually got to the bottom of it. Sounds as though it's harness failure as already posted above

I have continuity from ecm to all injector and coils..crank sensor as well.

I am completely stumped at this point

This is exactly the way Nissan designed it.

Thanks....I was lost because all the pinouts Ive found have it as constant, but it really isn't

:crusher1:

if your mechanic said it was the AATS why would you replace a cam sensors?

The new ECM requires a reprogram to the prom not just the keys.

Its possible the ECM you swapped out won't work if it's not the right ECU part#. If you swap ECU's you usually use the original ECU part number.Even if you program keys with Data scan.

It says the light only stays solid when ignition is in ON pos when the NATS detects trouble.

Your data scan should give you a NATS code then you can determine why your locked out.

It's ECM/IMMU failure or ID in Discord if your not getting a red blinking security light then it could be the Battery -> IMMU/ECM connection.

Regardless, cornholio s still correct.

we both made his signature, his troll is working