Picked up a 2001 SE,gonna clean it up............
01-28-2018, 06:48 PM
#123
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Haven't worked on the car in months. Weather has been better so i have been restoring the car from the fire damage,It was extensive .About 20 + hours of restoring so far.I am learning a lot from this car.
Parts have been replaced inside i have a list of a few more things that need to be replaced yet. Everything is cleaned the best i can,some things will and were replaced.
To give an idea this is a bucket of water after the 4th time the dash was cleaned.
And to tell you the best cleaner i have found, without a Doubt is the POR 15 cleaner degreaser. i mix 3 parts to one water, cleaner mix. This cleans carpet headliners stuff like that amazingly. Does not discolor upholstery.But dont put it on aluminum if it is for looks .Nor leather. I spray it on the dash stuff like that ,then immediately wipe it down with damp cloth.
I have striped most of the interior. Headliner and all. The interior build quality,is much better than the 4th gen. No "cardboard" rear deck or headliner. A lighter weight easier to clean and take out fiberglass type one. That center console is a work of art very heavy and overbuilt. This is the first time really digging into an interior of a 5th gen. And i can say the frame is beefed up a lot and there is better attention to detail.
Anyways i am wanting wrap this car work up so i am pushing forward faster.
Found this shift **** and look i have been looking for,very hard to find without logo's. And finally found it. Made from Italian leather and a believe it's a European model car.
Next i will be working on the trailing arms and putting parts on there and cleaning painting the rest of the area.
Parts have been replaced inside i have a list of a few more things that need to be replaced yet. Everything is cleaned the best i can,some things will and were replaced.
To give an idea this is a bucket of water after the 4th time the dash was cleaned.
And to tell you the best cleaner i have found, without a Doubt is the POR 15 cleaner degreaser. i mix 3 parts to one water, cleaner mix. This cleans carpet headliners stuff like that amazingly. Does not discolor upholstery.But dont put it on aluminum if it is for looks .Nor leather. I spray it on the dash stuff like that ,then immediately wipe it down with damp cloth.
I have striped most of the interior. Headliner and all. The interior build quality,is much better than the 4th gen. No "cardboard" rear deck or headliner. A lighter weight easier to clean and take out fiberglass type one. That center console is a work of art very heavy and overbuilt. This is the first time really digging into an interior of a 5th gen. And i can say the frame is beefed up a lot and there is better attention to detail.
Anyways i am wanting wrap this car work up so i am pushing forward faster.
Found this shift **** and look i have been looking for,very hard to find without logo's. And finally found it. Made from Italian leather and a believe it's a European model car.
Next i will be working on the trailing arms and putting parts on there and cleaning painting the rest of the area.
01-28-2018, 07:41 PM
#124
Damn man, that fire really set you back. Glad to see you're back at it, because you've come so far with this car and it seemed like you were getting close to driving it. Speaking of new shift *****, I've been thinking about getting a new leather e-brake handle from Nissan. I wonder if they even have any left....
01-29-2018, 01:32 PM
#125
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Damn man, that fire really set you back. Glad to see you're back at it, because you've come so far with this car and it seemed like you were getting close to driving it. Speaking of new shift *****, I've been thinking about getting a new leather e-brake handle from Nissan. I wonder if they even have any left....
Oh the shift **** is from a mazda. brand new shipped it was like $21. It has the same thread as the maxima's.
03-05-2018, 01:57 AM
#126
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Well i was trying to avoid the rear suspension beam area but the time has come.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to remove the lateral link and mount.first picture shows broken bolt (55259-2Y00A)CALLED SPECIAL BOLT THERE ARE 2. The cheapest i found, a piece $14.00 .
And Nissan must have made that one hole just big enough for the bolt. For alignment of mount at assembly. The other 2 have a lot more play.
Because about 3 inches, that bolt is in the mount, completely rust welded in . Hundreds and hammer strikes ,prying chisels ,nothing. I had to drill upside down almost 3 inches. And nut inside body broke loose ,have to fix that to.
My mount brace is in bad shape, lost a lot of material and has holes in it.I may replace it.(55401-2Y010) $166.22 .
Down the road i will go back in and replace other things like the link . that's the aluminum bushing piece in lateral link.(55120-2Y000) $71.69.
I am not taking the rear beam off. i am going to down the line get another,in better shape, clean it up and replace all bushings. For now cleaning painting what i have.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to remove the lateral link and mount.first picture shows broken bolt (55259-2Y00A)CALLED SPECIAL BOLT THERE ARE 2. The cheapest i found, a piece $14.00 .
And Nissan must have made that one hole just big enough for the bolt. For alignment of mount at assembly. The other 2 have a lot more play.
Because about 3 inches, that bolt is in the mount, completely rust welded in . Hundreds and hammer strikes ,prying chisels ,nothing. I had to drill upside down almost 3 inches. And nut inside body broke loose ,have to fix that to.
My mount brace is in bad shape, lost a lot of material and has holes in it.I may replace it.(55401-2Y010) $166.22 .
Down the road i will go back in and replace other things like the link . that's the aluminum bushing piece in lateral link.(55120-2Y000) $71.69.
I am not taking the rear beam off. i am going to down the line get another,in better shape, clean it up and replace all bushings. For now cleaning painting what i have.
Last edited by krismax; 03-24-2018 at 12:38 PM.
03-05-2018, 06:01 AM
#127
Christ! Sounds like you need to soak the entire car in
! I'm mentally preparing to take everything out of the back half of my car this coming winter so I can do minor rust repair and coat everything in POR15. I don't want my car to turn into yours!
03-05-2018, 09:30 AM
#128
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Christ! Sounds like you need to soak the entire car in Kano Kroil! I'm mentally preparing to take everything out of the back half of my car this coming winter so I can do minor rust repair and coat everything in POR15. I don't want my car to turn into yours!
This bolt is the same one you see laying to the sides in the picture.I used a 4 foot breaker bar on it
That was the biggest maxima bolt i have ever destroyed .
03-06-2018, 05:04 PM
#129
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Unfortunately the dealer said they cannot get the part. Don't know why it is for sale on their site. Ordered from an infiniti site. $225 shipped , i hope they can get it. It was used on I35's up to 2004.
Looks like we are gonna have problems, finding parts for these cars. This is a part that is on a 2004 Nissan.
Looks like we are gonna have problems, finding parts for these cars. This is a part that is on a 2004 Nissan.
Last edited by krismax; 03-06-2018 at 05:09 PM.
03-14-2018, 03:45 PM
#132
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03-17-2018, 10:02 AM
#135
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I still got the original FPR at 158xxx on the clock
Last edited by maximatech12; 03-17-2018 at 10:04 AM.
03-23-2018, 12:31 PM
#136
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OK i have this mount (55401-2Y010 MEMBER ASSY-REAR SUSPENSION)
fixed took a while.
Reason is couldn't buy one or find one at any cost.Nissan and Infiniti part numbers are the same. Was used on the 2004 I35 also.
I have found and bought all new bolts .I'll post that later,wasn't cheap.
To recondition this part cost about $80. but most of that is in EVAPORUST (95maxrider Thanks for the idea) purchase. And it can be used repeatedly. I'll show that later to, but these pictures are after the part was welded by me, and other things .
It had extreme rust, worse than the first pictures show. I had to weld steel plates in some areas. And in other areas welds had to be layered and built because old welds were gone,. Rust is very hard to weld.
Also i figured out why, these rust so bad.
There is a pocket in the one spot and water,dirt and rocks get caught in a area.
I have filled many jig holes on top and put 3 relief holes in the item to drain this area.
fixed took a while.
Reason is couldn't buy one or find one at any cost.Nissan and Infiniti part numbers are the same. Was used on the 2004 I35 also.
I have found and bought all new bolts .I'll post that later,wasn't cheap.
To recondition this part cost about $80. but most of that is in EVAPORUST (95maxrider Thanks for the idea) purchase. And it can be used repeatedly. I'll show that later to, but these pictures are after the part was welded by me, and other things .
It had extreme rust, worse than the first pictures show. I had to weld steel plates in some areas. And in other areas welds had to be layered and built because old welds were gone,. Rust is very hard to weld.
Also i figured out why, these rust so bad.
There is a pocket in the one spot and water,dirt and rocks get caught in a area.
I have filled many jig holes on top and put 3 relief holes in the item to drain this area.
03-23-2018, 01:33 PM
#137
Jesus man, you're nuts! After seeing what rust did to my 1988 BMW 528e I'm now paranoid about preventing/mitigating it on my current cars. Once all of their mechanical issues are sorted I plan on cleaning and coating the underbodies with tons of POR15 and rubberized undercoating. Oh, and I'm glad you liked the Evaporust, the stuff is awesome! Keep up the great work!
03-25-2018, 04:30 AM
#142
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I'd say probably so. My 2k fed spec 5 speed and my 2k1 gle. I've noticed before on a cold start after she ran for a few the solenoid moved them I'd say the iac has something to do with them either as well or exclusively. It makes sense to me.
03-29-2018, 12:12 AM
#143
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OK i have the lateral link and the rear mount test fitted together.
I couldn't get the complete inside of the mount painted but i will spray cavity wax into it.
I will scuff and paint over it with epoxy caliper paint. i noticed sometimes if the surface is to smooth the POR15 flakes off there is a small spot that did this on the mount.
I also had to make a access door in the unibody to weld in a new nut that broke loose. More pictures below
I couldn't get the complete inside of the mount painted but i will spray cavity wax into it.
I will scuff and paint over it with epoxy caliper paint. i noticed sometimes if the surface is to smooth the POR15 flakes off there is a small spot that did this on the mount.
I also had to make a access door in the unibody to weld in a new nut that broke loose. More pictures below
03-29-2018, 05:56 AM
#145
OK i have the lateral link and the rear mount test fitted together.
I couldn't get the complete inside of the mount painted but i will spray cavity wax into it.
I will scuff and paint over it with epoxy caliper paint. i noticed sometimes if the surface is to smooth the POR15 flakes off there is a small spot that did this on the mount.
I also had to make a access door in the unibody to weld in a new nut that broke loose. More pictures below
I couldn't get the complete inside of the mount painted but i will spray cavity wax into it.
I will scuff and paint over it with epoxy caliper paint. i noticed sometimes if the surface is to smooth the POR15 flakes off there is a small spot that did this on the mount.
I also had to make a access door in the unibody to weld in a new nut that broke loose. More pictures below
Edit- I hope you're reassembling everything with plenty of anti-seize!
03-30-2018, 07:54 AM
#147
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Props on welding that nut back in there! Are you using both of the POR15 prep products? You start with their de-greaser and then use a metal prep solution. How many coats are you doing? I haven't had problems with it flaking off on my stuff yet. What makes you want to cover it up with epoxy caliper paint? I would think some rubberized undercoating would be a better second coat.
Edit- I hope you're reassembling everything with plenty of anti-seize!
Edit- I hope you're reassembling everything with plenty of anti-seize!
I used some POR15 undercoating when the POR15 paint was still tacky. In the wheel wells.
But for the most part i stay away from it.
I usually spray cheap spray paint on POR15 as a second coat. But thought caliper paint would work better.
As for flaking off,it is very hard to make it stick,to surfaces that aren't sandblasted or rusty. I cleaned it and used metal ready,but sometimes the POR15 fakes off anyways.
03-30-2018, 12:44 PM
#148
03-30-2018, 01:12 PM
#149
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I have to add i bought the POR15 undercoating, and applied it only because i knew that,it would be applied directly on tacky POR15 paint.
And thus it would bond with it.
http://www.robisonservice.com/articles/RonR_waxoyl.php#
http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/waxoyl.php
Last edited by krismax; 03-31-2018 at 04:58 AM.
03-31-2018, 04:28 AM
#150
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BOLT-SPECIAL Part No.: 55259-2Y000 Replaced by: 55259-2Y00A
$12.05 2 are needed for mount (longer ones in picture) $24.10 total
Bolt-Special 55259-2Y00B $11.54 3 are needed for mount (shorter ones in picture) $34.62 total
I will do another post with(one comes from a Titan) lateral bolts later. These bolts had to be ordered from multiple places
$12.05 2 are needed for mount (longer ones in picture) $24.10 total
Bolt-Special 55259-2Y00B $11.54 3 are needed for mount (shorter ones in picture) $34.62 total
I will do another post with(one comes from a Titan) lateral bolts later. These bolts had to be ordered from multiple places
03-31-2018, 04:31 AM
#151
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took rear dust shields off. Didn't remember if the front had them. I have always taken them off.
Also did a scuffing up of my flywheel ,with 240 grit sandpaper. This flywheel has some wear but is fine.
Also did a scuffing up of my flywheel ,with 240 grit sandpaper. This flywheel has some wear but is fine.
04-07-2018, 05:30 AM
#152
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Car is moving ahead very fast more pictures soon.
My torque wrench apparently is broke . But i didn't know it.
I thought it was taking a lot of force for the flywheel bolts 69 foot pound. Then i was applying the 25-30 foot pound for the pressure plate and it would't click . My common sense kicked in before i sheared the heads off.They are only 12 MM heads on those 9 bolts.
My torque wrench apparently is broke . But i didn't know it.
I thought it was taking a lot of force for the flywheel bolts 69 foot pound. Then i was applying the 25-30 foot pound for the pressure plate and it would't click . My common sense kicked in before i sheared the heads off.They are only 12 MM heads on those 9 bolts.
04-08-2018, 04:34 PM
#153
Car is moving ahead very fast more pictures soon.
My torque wrench apparently is broke . But i didn't know it.
I thought it was taking a lot of force for the flywheel bolts 69 foot pound. Then i was applying the 25-30 foot pound for the pressure plate and it would't click . My common sense kicked in before i sheared the heads off.They are only 12 MM heads on those 9 bolts.
My torque wrench apparently is broke . But i didn't know it.
I thought it was taking a lot of force for the flywheel bolts 69 foot pound. Then i was applying the 25-30 foot pound for the pressure plate and it would't click . My common sense kicked in before i sheared the heads off.They are only 12 MM heads on those 9 bolts.
04-09-2018, 04:05 PM
#155
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Ok here is a view from area in the rear of the car. Place i had to weld nut.
Area is now done. I also used a lot of "3M cavity wax plus" in hard to reach areas.
Cavity wax just needs to be done in rockers and in frame rails underneath middle of car. And i few other places ,to touch up things.In the mount i used a lot.
I put it inside the pipe in the bottom of the rear beam.
I will also put some in the inside or the quarter panels and bottom of the doors inside them.
Area is now done. I also used a lot of "3M cavity wax plus" in hard to reach areas.
Cavity wax just needs to be done in rockers and in frame rails underneath middle of car. And i few other places ,to touch up things.In the mount i used a lot.
I put it inside the pipe in the bottom of the rear beam.
I will also put some in the inside or the quarter panels and bottom of the doors inside them.
04-10-2018, 08:37 AM
#156
04-10-2018, 12:33 PM
#157
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I was told that the click style torque wrenches need to be set back to zero before being put away. Otherwise they may need to be recalibrated after time. This info was from a 30+ year snap-on salesman.
04-10-2018, 01:02 PM
#158
This is absolutely still true! The owner's manual for the HF torque sticks say the same thing. But calibrating seems like more trouble than it's worth when I can go down the street and have HF give me a new one for free under warranty!
04-10-2018, 01:54 PM
#160
Yup, that was bad. Always set it back to zero (or the lowest setting, don't go negative or anything). Chances are you won't need a receipt, but new ones are like $10, so no big deal either way!