Picked up a 2001 SE,gonna clean it up............
#1
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Picked up a 2001 SE,gonna clean it up............
Maybe some would like to see the progress .
I will be showing lot's of pictures and the goal is to make a cheap daily driver for a few thousand (including car cost)that i can get 10-12 years out of.
this will take me to the middle of next year.
It will not be performance based, but if a part is better or costs less and it's what it will get.
Here is the car i's starting with.....2001 SE 5 speed. These are the sale pics.
Didn't take my own yet.... Car cost $1300.00
I will be showing lot's of pictures and the goal is to make a cheap daily driver for a few thousand (including car cost)that i can get 10-12 years out of.
this will take me to the middle of next year.
It will not be performance based, but if a part is better or costs less and it's what it will get.
Here is the car i's starting with.....2001 SE 5 speed. These are the sale pics.
Didn't take my own yet.... Car cost $1300.00
#2
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OK first purchase so far is this. I'll take more pictures later.
2001 INFINITI I30 MOTOR WITH 40,802 MILES
In the mail next new radiator support hood latch and latch support...i will be showing pics of install.
2001 INFINITI I30 MOTOR WITH 40,802 MILES
In the mail next new radiator support hood latch and latch support...i will be showing pics of install.
Last edited by krismax; 07-29-2016 at 07:00 AM.
#4
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Nothing just not gonna last as long as i want. Why you want it?
I have a 1996 max se with a 01 dek in it 102,000 on it 01 trans with 93,000 on it.Had the car 9 years already.
I will clean this car up and literally drive it for 10+ years
I have a 1996 max se with a 01 dek in it 102,000 on it 01 trans with 93,000 on it.Had the car 9 years already.
I will clean this car up and literally drive it for 10+ years
#7
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Now i have the rad support parts.... Gonna do some extra welds and some body foam in the support.
http://3mcollision.com/products/soun...oam-08458.html
http://3mcollision.com/products/soun...oam-08458.html
Last edited by krismax; 08-17-2016 at 11:17 PM.
#9
Anyway please do continue to post pictures of your progress, it's always fun to see that kind of stuff. Good luck!
#10
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It's kind of difficult to tell from the pictures but the car doesn't look too bad already. The problem in the Northeast is that cars rot out long before they stop working mechanically. Was this previously a southern climate car?
Anyway please do continue to post pictures of your progress, it's always fun to see that kind of stuff. Good luck!
Anyway please do continue to post pictures of your progress, it's always fun to see that kind of stuff. Good luck!
Those are the sellers pics it actually has some rust in the rear quarters front rad support is shot and a little underneath here and there.And some dents.
I will be cutting and welding the rust out. Also any hollows will get anti rust spray inside and foamed shut. I will give links of anything i use so others can use the same product.
This isn't gonna be a fast,i'am gonna take my time. Only thing a may pay someone to do is respray the car . And i'am putting some thought into putting a 6 speed in.
#12
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And if you want the color to somewhat match the car get spray paint in a can.from this place.just put your car and code in.
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...niti/2004/i35/
$750 labor is what i will charge ,so parts and everything should be around 1k for you
#13
I'm near Albany too! I hardly ever travel to the Amsterdam area but when you're done maybe I'll take a ride out one day to see the car. I had the rad support on mine patched up last summer & I'm hoping that will hold for a while. It had just started to rot through but I'm wondering if I would have just been better off replacing it. Time will tell.
#14
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I'm near Albany too! I hardly ever travel to the Amsterdam area but when you're done maybe I'll take a ride out one day to see the car. I had the rad support on mine patched up last summer & I'm hoping that will hold for a while. It had just started to rot through but I'm wondering if I would have just been better off replacing it. Time will tell.
Funny thing is ,i'am building this car for my wife
#15
About how much does the replacement radiator support cost and how difficult does this repair appear?
I just happened to stumble across this thread, and my 20AE is currently in the middle of me replacing the alternator so I'm seeing the same mess first-hand. Up until now I was assuming that I was going to have to fire up the MIG welder to patch-fix what's the third car in a two-driver family.
Thanks in advance for any info and help that may show up in this thread.
Norm
I just happened to stumble across this thread, and my 20AE is currently in the middle of me replacing the alternator so I'm seeing the same mess first-hand. Up until now I was assuming that I was going to have to fire up the MIG welder to patch-fix what's the third car in a two-driver family.
Thanks in advance for any info and help that may show up in this thread.
Norm
#16
Looks like your wife is going to have a pretty nice car when you're done! So you picked up the motor just in case? When I had my radiator support done about 10 years ago we coated it with POR 15 and it's still looking great. I never thought about foaming it though. Let us know how it turns out!
#17
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About how much does the replacement radiator support cost and how difficult does this repair appear?
I just happened to stumble across this thread, and my 20AE is currently in the middle of me replacing the alternator so I'm seeing the same mess first-hand. Up until now I was assuming that I was going to have to fire up the MIG welder to patch-fix what's the third car in a two-driver family.
Thanks in advance for any info and help that may show up in this thread.
Norm
I just happened to stumble across this thread, and my 20AE is currently in the middle of me replacing the alternator so I'm seeing the same mess first-hand. Up until now I was assuming that I was going to have to fire up the MIG welder to patch-fix what's the third car in a two-driver family.
Thanks in advance for any info and help that may show up in this thread.
Norm
I think the hardest part is taking the front apart and every bolt and nut shearing off.
But what's odd is the car i bought,the bodies in good shape for the age. but the crossmember has come completely away from the rad support.
Has to be a Nissan thing,it appears well painted. And it has many holes in it,and they never looked to sturdy to me. I bet they flex and the paint cracks.
I will weld the holes shut, do some seem welding,then foam. It's a thick foam but i want it to keep moisture and salt out.
Last edited by krismax; 08-21-2016 at 10:15 AM.
#18
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Looks like your wife is going to have a pretty nice car when you're done! So you picked up the motor just in case? When I had my radiator support done about 10 years ago we coated it with POR 15 and it's still looking great. I never thought about foaming it though. Let us know how it turns out!
I'am going to also yank the seats carpet out and do some body welding. Gonna seal shut those stupid rocker panel water sipping seems. Then fill with that foam.
I have some other things i need to show pictures of in this thread maybe tomorrow if i have time.
#19
Motor is going in when i cut rad support out. With 226 k onon old one, i don't want to go back in later.
I'am going to also yank the seats carpet out and do some body welding. Gonna seal shut those stupid rocker panel water sipping seems. Then fill with that foam.
I have some other things i need to show pictures of in this thread maybe tomorrow if i have time.
I'am going to also yank the seats carpet out and do some body welding. Gonna seal shut those stupid rocker panel water sipping seems. Then fill with that foam.
I have some other things i need to show pictures of in this thread maybe tomorrow if i have time.
#20
If you pick up the rad support,and other parts if there rotten and the fender pieces that bolt the fender to the front bumper plastic (most the bolts snap off, if yours are good forget that)
And if you want the color to somewhat match the car get spray paint in a can.from this place.just put your car and code in.
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...niti/2004/i35/
$750 labor is what i will charge ,so parts and everything should be around 1k for you
And if you want the color to somewhat match the car get spray paint in a can.from this place.just put your car and code in.
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...niti/2004/i35/
$750 labor is what i will charge ,so parts and everything should be around 1k for you
I'm near Albany too! I hardly ever travel to the Amsterdam area but when you're done maybe I'll take a ride out one day to see the car. I had the rad support on mine patched up last summer & I'm hoping that will hold for a while. It had just started to rot through but I'm wondering if I would have just been better off replacing it. Time will tell.
#21
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pics)http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/4...foam-08458.pdf
Foam is water proof closed cell. Area must be water free and rust stoped.After welding burns moisture out i will use a rust converter then this stuff. BELOW video
#22
Here is the data sheet on the foam i will use most likely(link above in crossmember
pics)http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/4...foam-08458.pdf
Foam is water proof closed cell. Area must be water free and rust stoped.After welding burns moisture out i will use a rust converter then this stuff. BELOW video
3Mâ„¢ Cavity Wax Plus for Interior-Corrosion Prevention in Automotive Applications - YouTube
pics)http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/4...foam-08458.pdf
Foam is water proof closed cell. Area must be water free and rust stoped.After welding burns moisture out i will use a rust converter then this stuff. BELOW video
3Mâ„¢ Cavity Wax Plus for Interior-Corrosion Prevention in Automotive Applications - YouTube
Here's the definitive thread on chassis foaming a Maxima: Link.
Guys were talking about using foams with densities ranging from 2 lb/ft^3 up to 16 lb/ft^3. I have no idea how that compares with the 0.6 lb/gal of this 3M stuff.
I've always wanted to foam my car, but never got around to it. Take lots of pics and let us know how it goes!
#25
Nice looking 2001 Maxima. Good luck on your wife's project.
How many 200ml bottles do you predict is needed to fill the lower radiator support? I'm replacing the rad support on my 2000 maxima SE-L within the next month or two.
Now i have the rad support parts.... Gonna do some extra welds and some body foam in the support.
http://3mcollision.com/products/soun...oam-08458.html
http://3mcollision.com/products/soun...oam-08458.html
#26
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I'am gonna block the ends with balloons weld any other holes shut ahead of time except a couple to fill with.
There's a cool balloon trick insert balloon into cavity(or through a small hole holding end out of hole) blow up slow with compressed air. This way foam can be blocked from going out end of big cavity's that can't be accessed.
#27
I'm liking the foam method. Your starting point with this car is great since, like you said, the body appears to be in great shape. POR 15 stuff works pretty well. I'm definitely a novice with body work, but the quick patches I did with POR 15, preventively or even on rust, have held up very well.
With the work you're doing, I'm sure the chassis will last a very long time. Wish mine wasn't just part of the regular annual maintenance...
With the work you're doing, I'm sure the chassis will last a very long time. Wish mine wasn't just part of the regular annual maintenance...
#28
First . . . how's the project coming along?
I think it's more that dirt and salt find their way inside along with the water, where they it there for extended periods of time damp (there can't be a whole lot of ventilation flow going on). By the time the damage is noticed, there's plenty of places for it to escape through.
The crossmember on my 20AE is in really rough shape, and I think I'm going to try a different approach. I'd already welded a 1x1 angle reinforcement on it to tackweld the latch support brace to . . . which was probably providing 95% of what little structural integrity was left in the middle of the crossmember. And as bad as the rust was, the two large bolts attaching the fore/aft member to the crossmember came off clean. Even the nuts they screw into are in good shape even though what they're supposed to be welded to wasn't.
Rather than drag this thread off topic any further, I'll start my own thread.
Norm
I think the hardest part is taking the front apart and every bolt and nut shearing off.
But what's odd is the car i bought,the bodies in good shape for the age. but the crossmember has come completely away from the rad support.
Has to be a Nissan thing,it appears well painted. And it has many holes in it,and they never looked to sturdy to me. I bet they flex and the paint cracks.
But what's odd is the car i bought,the bodies in good shape for the age. but the crossmember has come completely away from the rad support.
Has to be a Nissan thing,it appears well painted. And it has many holes in it,and they never looked to sturdy to me. I bet they flex and the paint cracks.
The crossmember on my 20AE is in really rough shape, and I think I'm going to try a different approach. I'd already welded a 1x1 angle reinforcement on it to tackweld the latch support brace to . . . which was probably providing 95% of what little structural integrity was left in the middle of the crossmember. And as bad as the rust was, the two large bolts attaching the fore/aft member to the crossmember came off clean. Even the nuts they screw into are in good shape even though what they're supposed to be welded to wasn't.
Rather than drag this thread off topic any further, I'll start my own thread.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-13-2016 at 10:26 AM.
#29
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First . . . how's the project coming along?
I think it's more that dirt and salt find their way inside along with the water, where they it there for extended periods of time damp (there can't be a whole lot of ventilation flow going on). By the time the damage is noticed, there's plenty of places for it to escape through.
The crossmember on my 20AE is in really rough shape, and I think I'm going to try a different approach. I'd already welded a 1x1 angle reinforcement on it to tackweld the latch support brace to . . . which was probably providing 95% of what little structural integrity was left in the middle of the crossmember. And as bad as the rust was, the two large bolts attaching the fore/aft member to the crossmember came off clean. Even the nuts they screw into are in good shape even though what they're supposed to be welded to wasn't.
Rather than drag this thread off topic any further, I'll start my own thread.
Norm
I think it's more that dirt and salt find their way inside along with the water, where they it there for extended periods of time damp (there can't be a whole lot of ventilation flow going on). By the time the damage is noticed, there's plenty of places for it to escape through.
The crossmember on my 20AE is in really rough shape, and I think I'm going to try a different approach. I'd already welded a 1x1 angle reinforcement on it to tackweld the latch support brace to . . . which was probably providing 95% of what little structural integrity was left in the middle of the crossmember. And as bad as the rust was, the two large bolts attaching the fore/aft member to the crossmember came off clean. Even the nuts they screw into are in good shape even though what they're supposed to be welded to wasn't.
Rather than drag this thread off topic any further, I'll start my own thread.
Norm
My garage has never been a car garage gotta transform it first into that. Run more electricity wires,then more lights, outlets.
And half of oct i i'm in florida.
And working on house. so this is a slow project.
As for the rails and cross member. This foam from 3M is automotive and it keeps moisture 100% out.when it is applied with no moisture in there.
When i get in there i will show what it looks like. but on mine there is no bolts or boltholes . That area doesn't exist.
#30
No holes? One more reason for me to start a new thread.
going-try-reinforcing-crossmember-again
Norm
going-try-reinforcing-crossmember-again
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-17-2016 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Edited to fix the link
#31
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No holes? One more reason for me to start a new thread.
Going to try reinforcing this crossmember
Norm
Going to try reinforcing this crossmember
Norm
Mine is in two pieces ,the crossmember
#33
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Lighting is all up,outlets run. Cleaned garage out have the car in there.Gonna show pics all the way through . First project engine out .This is just pics of car in there hood off.Rust in some areas is more than i thought.
#36
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Yeah it is worse than i thought for the rest of the car also some spots are real clean though .Kind of odd.
I made good progress, gonna clean everything off the front of the car and pull engine. maybe next weekend i will have that out. I have taken a lot of pictures. Internet doesn,t come back for a week. i will post alot more pics then.
First time owning a 5 th gen have some questions that need answering.
I made good progress, gonna clean everything off the front of the car and pull engine. maybe next weekend i will have that out. I have taken a lot of pictures. Internet doesn,t come back for a week. i will post alot more pics then.
First time owning a 5 th gen have some questions that need answering.
#37
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Well here are some pics the crossmember is completely off working on taking the engine out now.
I used one drill bit,and ground off all the spot welds that were forward facing and 4 that were on the insides. I drilled out 18 spot welds total 9 on each side.
And i want to make this clear the spot welds are structural with the bolts out with spot welds in the front is tied very strong. I didn't count the total spot welds but i would say at least 40.
And a bracket i made for a high HP turbo talon for AEM FPR .Used some maxima brackets
I used one drill bit,and ground off all the spot welds that were forward facing and 4 that were on the insides. I drilled out 18 spot welds total 9 on each side.
And i want to make this clear the spot welds are structural with the bolts out with spot welds in the front is tied very strong. I didn't count the total spot welds but i would say at least 40.
And a bracket i made for a high HP turbo talon for AEM FPR .Used some maxima brackets
Last edited by krismax; 04-03-2017 at 11:33 AM.
#39
#40
Motor is going in when i cut rad support out. With 226 k onon old one, i don't want to go back in later.
I'am going to also yank the seats carpet out and do some body welding. Gonna seal shut those stupid rocker panel water sipping seems. Then fill with that foam.
I have some other things i need to show pictures of in this thread maybe tomorrow if i have time.
I'am going to also yank the seats carpet out and do some body welding. Gonna seal shut those stupid rocker panel water sipping seems. Then fill with that foam.
I have some other things i need to show pictures of in this thread maybe tomorrow if i have time.