Brake caliper seizing - possible issue with ABS system
 

I have an 02 Maxima SE with a brake issue and I have searched the internet and YouTube but to no avail. What is happening is that my driver side front caliper is seizing and not releasing once it has been warmed up and in use. It kind of reminds me of a vapor lock situation driven by heat. What I have done so far in trying to trouble shoot my issue is that I have replaced the both front brake calipers (rotors and pads as well) and driver side ABS/speed sensor. The calipers have been bled properly, but the driver side caliper is still seizing up on me. I would assume that the only next logical thing to dive into is the ABS system. However, I have no ABS system light that has come on. Plus, it seems that this could be a big job to tackle with line pressured brake lines. This is now the second time that this has happened. If I let the car sit and cool down, then the caliper seems to release. But who knows how long it will last. Has anyone else been down this road and if so, can you provide any insight into my issue?

It's most likely the rubber brake line. They can break down inside or the metal clamp mount can rust and pinch it closed. The system pushes enough pressure past the clog to apply the brake but there's nowhere near as much pressure releasing it. The clog can operate like a one way valve keeping the pressure in the caliper. As it sits it'll slowly bleed off the pressure and release.

Pull the line out and I'm betting it'll be clogged.

Change ur brake hose on that side

I'd replace it, again.

Guys, thank you for the response. We did not think that this could have been the culprit as when we bled the brakes it gave no indication of blockage. But, this option is a much better option to do then to have to dive into the ABS system. I will get this done and report back afterwards. Again, Thanks!!

I know you said that the calipers have been replaced, but in addition to the brake hose replacement, I'd also advise that the caliper slide pins be removed and re-greased as well.

Replace them both while you're at it. If one is bad the other one can't be far behind and you'll already be set up to bleed etc...

Yeah, it will easily bleed through a clog in the line but not release. The "push" force is very strong but there really is no "release" force.

May I suggest you use 3M silicone paste for the pins, available on Amazon $20 or maybe locally. I've had totally rotten experience with supposedly high temp synthetic lube for brakes and it just would gum up every year, causing the pins to stick bigtime. The paste suggested above has been on my caliper pins for three years and they are still butter smooth. Can't say enough about the 3M silicone.

Good to know. Thanks!

Yep, I was planning on replacing both. Thanks for the note.

My Miata did the same thing a couple years ago. Caliper would lock to the rotor once it heated up. Then the only way to get it to release was to either crack the bleeder, or wait for it to cool down. I had some nice braided lines on there already. So I started by replacing the caliper. That solved the problem permanently, but it thing what really fixed it was the fact that after replacing the caliper, I purged all the old brake fluid from the lines and reservoir. Brake fluid is hydroscopic. So it absorbs moisture like crazy. It will suck the water right out of the air if the cap is left open on a bottle of fluid, or on your brake reservoir. Once the fluid is contaminated with water it can cause some issues. It can steam and cause expansion in the system. It can also cause calipers to rust internally and seize up. I would go ahead and replace that line, then completely flush the system with new fluid. It's common for people who track their cars to flush the brake fluid multiple times a season. It's just good maintenance to do it once in a while on a daily driver.

I use this on the slides whenever I do brakes. It never seems to break down even in the Florida heat. It far outlives the life of the pads. Usually I just look at the pins and put them right back without doing anything.

I keep it on the shelf for everything. It's made for wheel bearings and CV axles so brake pins are nothing for it. It's handy stuff to have around. I've had this can so long the label is fading.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....2f95f1987d.jpg

I was able to replace the brake hoses today. I cut open the driver side hose and there was in fact something that was impeding the flow. I was able to stick a small wire through the passenger side, but barely. The driver side hose would not let me to get that little piece of wire through it. I am optimistic!

Thanks again for the help and feedback. Now onto the other things that need to be addressed.

Don't get too optimistic :laugh: I replaced MC, brake hoses, all calipers (from a donor car that was fine), bled, then power bled and pedal still pretty much went to the floor.

I cursed it like a filthy slut whore and put on 6th gen brakes.

Even at 212K the hoses were fine when I cut em open. I guess your fluid was never changed.

I had that problem in my other vehicle a month ago (06 Escalade). It was the type of grease I was using. Some over the counter black caliper grease. Took caliper apart, cleaned, changed to syl glyde. Problem gone. Also, maje sure the retaining brackets are clean so the disk can move. I don't grease the ears anymore, attracts dirt.

Replacing the brake line fixed this problem for me.