Battery cover and questions
 

From what Im seeing these cars are built with battery covers or shields.
i guess its been just taken out then trashed before I bought this one.
i cant understand why people just take the undercovers, shields, and heat shields and just trash them.
do the covers protect the battery from heat? Ive been through three batteries in eight years.

my battery reads 11.9V DC with the ignition "on" then 13.9V DC-14.0V DC while car is running. Does that seem normal?
shouldnt the voltage still be at 12.75V DC even with the acc "on'?

I have left my cover on, but it seems that it's more cosmetic than anything. My yukon doesn't have a cover and the battery lasts just fine. Never had a battery cover in any other car.

Those voltages seem normal from what I remember.

My car battery makes it about 5-6 years, fwiw.

No, they are not built with covers. I bought my car brand new, and there was never any battery cover. None, just a strap to hold it down.
My battery reads 12.5V when idle, and 13.8 - 14.5 V when the engine is running. Since January 2000, I am on my 4th battery and I expect this one to last another 3 years or so.

The cover won't fit every battery, perhaps that is why they get tossed.

Theres no battery cover anyway but I saw it on Courtesy parts as a Part #.

do the Primary HO2S affect start up choke?
im getting record of these being replaced back in 2011.
The primary sensor bank 2 had Nissan a logo on it.
i had a bank 1 Cataylst (20020-3Y400) put in back in 2010 vand they claim the HO2S i guess thats bank 1 sensor 2 was replaced part # (22690-2Y921)
per Technical Service bulletin.

I'm considering it as an HO2S issue.

Bridegstone replaced two sensors in 2011. Basically it says they installed
Bosch 15726 - $97.63
Bosch 13348 - $185.98

are these bank 1?

the cat was replaced and the sensor replaced with that at Nissan so I assume that was sensor 2.

so theres 1 sensor that never got replaced so Im considering it to be totally burned up.

:confused:you talkin 12.5V with acc "on" I take it? Thanks for the response. Mine is 11.9V with acc "on".

Yes, in the ON position. However, it drops to 12.2-124V the moment I switch on my radio or my lights. Then, another issue is the accuracy of the voltmeter (yours and mine). Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about the details, but 11.9V appears a tad on the low side. Try another meter.

Well yeah I did use a meter but I hook NDS2 to the data link.
I have the choice of what I want to view.

heres a few from the drop down menu

battery Voltage
HO2S monitor all sensors individually
MAF
TPS
RPM's
and dozens of other choices.

I can monitor the switching of the Primary HO2 sensors from rich -> lean
its supposed to switch 5 times in ten seconds when car is fully heated up and running at 2000 rpm's.
Im chasing a start up issue where the car sometimes starts fine but mostly starts then idles low until I open the throttle then the idle stabilizes. Most of the time it just stalls until I start it again then it starts right up no problem and runs fine. A bit slow from a dead stop sometimes but for the most part runs fine.

I recently replaced the alternator in my 03. It was not charging properly and eventually the battery would drain off and it would not start. The voltage of the bad alternator was 11.5 -12 volts running. Very close to what it was when it was off. The voltage now 12.5 volts off, 14.5+ when running.

I replaced that last year with a Hitachi ALR.

Only other thing I guess I could consider is the Starter because its a cheap AZ I put in 2 1/2 years ago.
I may have spilled some anti-freeze in it while takin off those damn TB coolant lines to remove the Surge tank(lol)

I noticed there is a fuel pressure dampener on this one at the rail however
the 5.5 has this in-tank at the pump? Right?
im curious as to when this goes bad.

you talking about the plastic thing that goes around the batt but not covering it?

Jesus this thread is all over the place

:eek:Contact the Queen. OMG