Yayomax

I recently completed a project of changing out my engine in my 2k Maxima. It went very well and I'm happy again. When I first started the engine, the revs stayed above 1100+ rpm. Eventually the yellow SES came on. I seafoamed the engine through the brake booster line and immediately the revs bounced between 1500 and 2000. Eventually they shot to 3000 flat and stayed there til I cut it off. Restart and it would go to 1100 then right back to 3000 within about 30 sec. I searched the .Org and googled my butt off but I could only find the 02-03 procedure or otherwise useless info. Then I remembered that I downloaded a FSM for my car a couple years ago. Here is the procedure from it for those of us WITHOUT Consult II and a dealership visit. Or if you prefer to visit a shop of your choice, the procedure with Consult II is at the bottom.

PRE-CONDITIONING
Before performing “Idle Air Volume Learning”, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
I Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
I Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 99°C (158 - 210°F)
I PNP switch: ON(Vehicle In Neutral)
I Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, set lighting
switch to the 1st position to light only small lamps.
I Cooling fan motor: Not operating
I Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
I Vehicle speed: Stopped
I Transmission: Warmed-up
For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “FLUID TEMP SE” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.

Without CONSULT-II
1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown. The top one connected to the throtle body)
then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
8. Wait 20 seconds.
9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the problem by referring to the NOTE below.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within specifications.

ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed M/T: 625±50 rpm
A/T: 700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±5° BTDC
A/T: 15°±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
NOTE: If idle air volume learning cannot be performed successfully, proceed as follows:
1) Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2) Check PCV valve operation.
3) Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air
leakage.
4) Adjust closed throttle position switch and reset memory.
(Refer to Basic Inspection, EC-115.)
5) When the above four items check out OK, engine component
parts and their installation condition are questionable.
Check and eliminate the cause of the problem.
It is useful to perform “TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS — SPECIFICATION
VALUE”, EC-157.
6) If any of the following conditions occur after the engine
has started, eliminate the cause of the problem and perform
“Idle air volume learning” all over again:
I Engine stalls.
I Erroneous idle.
I Blown fuses related to the IACV-AAC valve system.

I performed the relearn and it went flawlessly and my idle was within spec. When I turned it off and restarted it, the revs went back up to 1100. I repeated the process and again, after a retsart, same high idle. My SES was on at the time so after the the third relearn, I disconnected my battery before shutdown. Left it unplugged for a few minutes, turned the lights on and off a few times to sap any residual power left in the car. Reconnected my battery and started her up and now she purrrrrrs at a lovely 650ish rpm. Drove it for a few days and no SES so far. Idle is perfect. So if anyone has these crazy idle gremlins for a 00-01 Max, my pleasure to assist. - Tory


With CONSULT-II
1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING”
(previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
7. Select “IDLE AIR VOL LEARN” in “WORK SUPPORT” mode.
8. Touch “START” and wait 20 seconds.
9. Make sure that “CMPLT” is displayed on CONSULT-II screen.
If “INCMP” is displayed, “Idle Air Volume Learning” will not be
carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the NOTE above.

Information sourced from 2000 Maxima Haynes Manual. Engine Control System Section

caroro

Excellent Post. My 2001 A/T RPM was surging, most of the tim when coming down to a stop, it would jump to 1000-1500 rpm, it started doing it after I replaced starter.
Hopefully this will fix it. I got code P0505 initially but then I didnt get any codeas, the problem was happening randomly, whether car had just been driven for a few minutes or sometimes after it had been running for a while.
Normal rpm and gear shifting once at speed.

We'll see if this was it.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

the procedures Yayomax gave above will not work for 00-01 maximas, you need a different IACV relearn procedure, do a search, its on the forum.

wish2345

what years will this procedure work for ?

maxima dude

if any1 need the 5.5 gen dile relearn procedure p.m me

sontakke

>6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
>7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown. The top one connected to > the throtle body) then reconnect it within 5 seconds.

Does this mean you are disconnecting the TP sensor while the car is idling??

- Vikas

Jmahad01

iTrader: (8)

Good question. I have been wondering myself if you should leave the car on while trying this.

P. Samson

Yes.......the TPS connector is disconnected/reconnected with the engine idling. Yayomax's IAV Learning is the correct one, and is verbatim out of a Gen.5 FSM.

gpresar

No need to search, Yayomax saved the day (and plenty of my $) by posting this procedure, which DID work for my 00 GLE.

Prior to performing this procedure, my idle was around 900 to 1K after replacing MAF sensor. The only thing I did differently from Yayomax was to drive the car for a while after the learn procedure, which seemed to make the correct RPM settings stick. Like Yayomax, I saw that the correct RPM settings had reverted to their previously high RPM's after restarting the engine.

I tried the relearn procedure posted elsewhere in this forum (the one that calls for depressing and releasing the accelerator pedal 5 times, etc.) and could never get the SES light to blink as described. This plus the fact that I would occasionally get a trouble code of P0505 every week or two lead me down the path of thinking that my Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) was bad. See this thread for further details: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post7239958

Bottom line, my Max is running like new once again!!!

Finally, in case some poor schmuck is encountering the same problems I had, here is a brief summary of the symptoms along with my course of action in coming to a solution:

Symptoms:

• Poor acceleration with pinging as the car went up hills.
• Occasionally maxed out RPM at approx 3500 as if there was a governor on the engine.
• Hesitation in taking off from a start, especially when engine is cold
• Transmission appeared to be slipping (extra scary as I had just done a tranny fluid flush prior to this symptom)
• SES light comes every week or two with the code P0505

Actions taken:

• Cleaned throttle body and replaced air filter - no difference in symptoms
• Replaced MAF sensor - MAJOR increase in power and elimination of tranny slipping symptom; idle still high and P0505 still comes up
• Tried Idle Air Volume Learning procedure not listed in this thread - could not get SES light to blink and idle RPM remained high
• Disassembled Throttle Body again and checked resistance across IACV pins - saw 23 ohms across pins 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, and 5-6 (a relief given that a short would have likely resulted in a cooked ECU as detailed in many threads on this forum)
• Checked throttle position switch (brown connector) with ohm meter and verified continuity between pins when throttle plate was in fully open and fully closed positions (center pin is pole and the other two are N/O and N/C
• Checked throttle potentiometer with ohm meter and verified that resistance increased and decreased smoothly as throttle valve went through its range of motion (center pin is wiper)
• Reassembled throttle body
• Verified that IVAC was operating by listening to the motor buzz and clunk for a few seconds after turning off ignition
• Tried the relearn procedure in this thread - Max is running like new again!!!

Final Note: I am most grateful to Yayomax for posting this procedure as I was about ready to buy a new IACV based upon the P0505 code being thrown by my Max's computer and all the scary stuff I was reading in other threads. This has been an interesting learning experience that didn't end up costing me an arm and a leg and has brought my Max back to full performance. As an added bonus I now know about Maxima.org and shall be checking back here regularly - at least until my Max hits my goall of 300K miles, which hopefully is a number of years from now.

Yayomax

Hey thanx for the shoutout, I appreciate it. Glad to hear it worked out well for you. Keep us posted. To clear any confusion, this relearn was taken from the 00-01 Factory Service Manual. To be more specific, it will work with the 3.0 DE-K, not the 3.5 liter.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Worked beautifully on my 2k GLE. Original problem: after some irrelevant repairs my idle became 900 rpm and the idle would drop after the warm start sometimes stalling the engine. Now it is steady at 700 rpm.

Should be in the stickies IMHO.

edgystud3nt

This is exactly what I needed to see. My 2000 SE is putting out the p0505 code and it is idling at about 900-1000 rpms. I am wondering when you disconnected the battery? It's not clear to me. You say "before shutdown." I am wondering if you'll clarify this point.

sontakke

I don't think it is ever a good idea to disconnect a battery while the engine is running on any of the cars with electronic brains and fuel injection.

I had my starter replaced and since we had the access, got the throttle body cleaned. Now my idle timing advance has gone down and the instantaneous fuel consumption at idle has gone up (I have ultra-gauge). The idle speed is about the same or just slightly higher. Everything including idle timing advance and idle speed are still within the specification but not at the dead center as it used to be.

Resetting the OBD-II does not change the behavior. Today I also noticed that it is taking lot longer for the idle speed to drop after closing the throttle.

It has been about four days and now I am thinking about doing this idle relearn procedure. BUT I do not have bouncy idle or high idle or SES code and I am reluctant to buy more problems. I believe it was throttle body cleaning which changed the behavior and NOT changing of the starter. The mechanic did it "live" and I have not yet done the full battery reset but only OBD-II resets.

- Vikas

Yayomax

I disconnected the battery so that the ECU wouldn't store any codes or information after the car is turned off. I knew the car would run off the alternator just fine with it disconnected. The P505 code was stored in my ECU before and after I did the relearn, so the light stayed on. The relearn worked and my idle smoothed each time I did the procedure, but it messed back up each time I restarted the car. So once I cleared the code, it worked for good. Also, a good idea would be to check the tension on the cruise and pedal throttle cables connected to the throttle body. Make sure one or the other aren't holding the throttle open too far at idle. It can cause the P505 code also.

Soulikhanh

I ran the relearn process and worked like a champ! Thank you for the post.

I just replaced my idle air control valve and fixed the sta509a chip.

Vin59

Hi
I tried the manual relearn but it was unsuccessful. I took it to a local shop today that ran the relearn program (his scan tool wasn't a Consult 11) after several tries it said "complete" My idle is 700 to 750 but my tach still bounces a few hundred when I rev it to 1200 rpm. This all started Saturday when I replaced my alternator. I had my CPU serviced a month ago and had replaced both the throttle control valve and throttle position sensor prior to having the CPU serviced. Do I have to go to the Stealership for the relearn? The P505 code returns after 80 miles.

Vin59

Forgot to mention that my car is a 2001 Infiniti I30.

Yayomax

I wouldn't feel comfortable suggesting that you go and get raped by the dealership, unless it's for parts and not service. Where did you purchase the throttle control valve and position sensor from? Check your throttle cables at the throttle body also. The slightest increased tension will have the throttle out of position for too long and trigger the light.

Vin59

The previous owner replaced the idle valve so I'm not sure where he bought it. The throttle sensor is a Hitachi. The cables aren't too tight. My idle is pretty low 700 to 750. The car ran fine until last weekend when my battery died due to a bad alternator. It only bounces if I rev it to around 1200. Would an idle relearn correct that?

Thanks

Yayomax

Well, 700-750 is within spec and is normal if your car is an automatic. 625-675 for manual. If it's hard to keep the tach @1200 RPM while pressing the gas, Then this is normal also for all 3.0 liter DE-K engines. If my memory is right, I believe there was an optional TSB years ago that would have the dealer re-flash the ECU to "correct" this. It was more like a customer complaint that they would fix, than a mandatory recall.

Vin59

Thanks for your help Yayomax.
Last night I rev'd it to 1200 a couple times and it only bounced 1 time. The transmission slips occasionally which I feel is because of this as it never did it before last week. (The fluid is clean and full.) It is performing better since the shop performed the relearn on Friday.

inkmpenn

I have an 01 max and I've replaced iacv and repaired the ecu, my vehicle idles at 1500 but sometimes when coming to a light it will go from 1200 to 1600 back and forth then idle at 1500. Now some mechanic friends adjusted the tps and actual throttle body, that maybe be why it idles that high.

The place I got the ecu repaired gave me the home relearn process like listed above and I've tried it plenty of times. Now I hooked the max up to a fogger to check for vacuum leaks and only one I notice is around the intake seeming to e a gasket.

Could this be my problem of why it won't relearn? I don't mind to replace the gaskets to avoid going to a dealership, I just want my car to go back to normal

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

How does one adjust the TPS? I thought this could only be done with a CONSULT II device.

At any rate, if they messed with the TPS and/or throttle body it can likely affect your idle problem. It sounds like you'll have to take it into the dealer for them to go through the relearn process. They'll use a CONSULT II and get it within spec if that means adjusting the TPS and/or throttle body.

On another note...when I changed out my IACV and gasket as a PM I found the idle relearn procedure didn't work for me. It was idling high around the same range you have. I took it to the dealer and they were able to do the relearn procedure to get it within spec. It cost me $70, but I didn't have another option at that point.

inkmpenn

by the two bolts connecting to the throttle body, top get pretty loose and bottom one just enough to move because it was the top part we moved mostly because someone previous had marked the tps and when we moved it to where its now it stayed idling, high but idling before that my car couldn't stay running, it would shut off went I started it.

Only $70! Just wonder how much it would be around where I live, I'll have to see. Thanks

Pilm

A correctly adjusted TPS should do nothing to idle speed. On the other hand an incorrectly adjusted one could. Put a 2 mil shim against the stopper and see if idle changes, if it does, then they did it wrong. If your idle is erratic to start with then you'll have to measure the voltage on the pin instead, but either way, make sure it's set correctly.

When I repaired P0505 on my 01 Max I removed and cleaned the throttle body and played with the throttle plate without any ill effects. I didn't even need to do idle relearn, idle was perfect after installing a new IACV and repaired ECU. You really shouldn't have to idle relearn if you did an ECU repair b/c all the old settings are still there and changing the IACV really shouldn't affect things unless you used an aftermarket one that has resistances that aren't exactly 22 ohms. The Nissan ones are almost always spot on 22 ohms, so the circuit isn't affected by a new one. Anyway, I'd first check the TPS calibration, then repair the vacuum leak, then see how it idles.

shaks

iTrader: (15)

it's not only dealer who could do a relearn for you, an experienced machanic with proper tolls (read - computer and software) could do it

i tried performing the relearn at home and it didn't work, from what i have read - not so many people with 00-01 are successful with "home" relearn, other story for 02-03

check if your gas cable is loose enough and not stuck, same for cruise control

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I don't understand unless you adjusted the cables or the stopping point on the cables?

Yayomax

Disconnect the ends of the cruise and pedal cable from the throttle body. Start the car and let it idle. If it stays within spec, then you have to determine which cable is just a little too tight. My cruise throttle cable was too tight at one time which raised my idle just enough to be out of range of the iacv.

hnamous

I know its strongly discouraged to revive an old thread, but I got p0505 after cleaning the throttle body a few weeks ago and I was never able to get the idle relearn to work. RPMs at idle were 900-1100. Today I finally got the time to try the relearn again but before doing so I did the following actions and the idle returned to normal WITHOUT performing the relearn above:

-Turned the key to the ON position but did not start the car.
-Disconnected the brown connector for a few seconds (5-10) and reconnected it.
-Turned the key to OFF, then back to ON and started the car.
-Noticed that my RPMs had dropped to around 700 at idle.
-Gassed it a few times, cleared the code via OBDII, turned off the car, started again, drove 20+ miles and the RPMs remained perfect.
The code hasn't come back either...before it would come back on after just a few miles.

Note the car was already warm as it was just driven for about 30min. This fix might be an anomaly, but maybe it isn't. Perhaps someone facing the same issue can try and see if it works for them too.

2000 Maxima gle, A/T, 122k

Chourizo

Guys,

I arrived to that post (and forum) via google. I have exactly the same issues described at the post (high idle, around 1200-1500 rpm after installing a new IAC).

I have a 2001 GXE, manual. I tried to perform the relearn procedure about 20 times with no succeed. When I disconnect the TPS harness connector the RPM go high, around 2100, but when I connect it again it goes back to 1200. There is no tension in the cables. I must be doing something wrong:

1. In my car there is no OFF position in the ignition switch. There is start, ON, ACC, 1 and Lock. I assume that position 1 is OFF, right?

2. When you say electric load switch off... is there anything to do or just have everything off?

If I cannot make that relearn procedure work, I was planning on adjusting the screw in the throttle body, because it may have been adjusted incorrectly for a previous owner when the IAC died (I don't know that for sure but it may explain the high idle).What do you think?

Thanks for your help.

lidlitalian

I tried this procedure on my 2k max gle and when I came to the disconnecting of the TPS, the car immediately shut right off???


What does this mean?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

You probably pulled the wrong plug on the TPS. Try pulling the other one.

lidlitalian

Says to pull the brown one, one on top, car shuts right off. Anyone know why? This car is possessed

cdoublejj

Wth is Consul II? how do i know if my car has it?

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

consult ii is what the dealer or service shop uses to talk to your computer

cdoublejj

so really any higher end scanner should be able to the job if i can find the correct value???

EDIT: changed period to question mark.

AT978

Tried time and time, and time again. Idle will not go down. I've times EVERYTHING correctly, help guys?

Donkeypunch

I replaced mine recently and it idle about 700.
Just alittle bit high, but after a day went back to normal.

Didn't have to do any type of relearn.

maxiiiboy

I have never done the idle re-learn, and I don't think it's necessary. Just disconnect the battery overnight and the car will learn on its own.

AT978

I've definitely had the battery disconnected overnight before and I don't believe it relearned