'02 Bank 1 converter replacement
 

Has anyone documented the steps for removal/replacement of the bank 1 converter? I have searched but have not had any luck finding anything. I am getting ready to replace mine and will be doing the work myself. Thanks in advance.

If you mean the precat, you just drop the y pipe, disconnect the o2 sensor, and unbolt it. Take out the radiator fans if you want more room. If you want more detailed instructions just look up how-tos on installing headers. As for your precat, you do have the option of using you old one, just remove it and remove all the catalytic material and bolt it back on, youll gain a little bit of power and have no issues in the future. Oh and make sure you have a can of PB blaster, and that you use only 6 point sockets, those nuts love to strip and break.

isn't bank 1 next to the firewall?

Yeah, bank one is in the back of the engine bay. You pretty much remove whats in the way, unbolt it and put the new one in. There's nothing complex about it but you've got to be good with tools and old bolts.

It's more "hard" than complicated if that makes sense.

Yah, that's kinda what I was thinking. Already ordered a replacement for it. Was just trying to make sure there wasn't anything too super difficult, OTHER than getting the bolts loose, and I'm going to spray them with PB Blaster a few days before I change it. Thanks. :-)

I just did a complete exhaust gut job (both pre cats, y pipe, main cat, resonator, and mufffler) on my I35 a few weeks back.
I was lucky not to break any of the pre cat to manifold bolts on bank 1 & 2 upon removal, but I did end up stripping a couple of bank 2 pre cat bolts when installing the new pre cats, in which case I had to break out the drill with 12" bits and buy new bolts to secure the new bank 2 pre cat. My advice is to take your time, make sure that you have new nuts and bolts for everything that is being replaced, and to buy new O2 sensors. As stated before, the job isn't complicated, but it is hard due to rusty bolts, lack of space, and difficult to reach areas.

I had mine replaced twice since i had my car, 02 i35. bank 2 was semi clogged so i ordered a new one and a new bank 1 cat and had a shop install mine because the bolts were so rusty, so they replaced both and installed new bolts, then later on down the line i ended up gutting both myself.

Well, I finally got this job done. I started Saturday and finished it late Sunday night. I did it on drive on ramps, so all the work was pretty much done laying on my back, which was VERY enjoyable...lol. I was very lucky and managed to get ALL the bolts out without breaking or stripping any of them. Thank you PB Blaster. This was the most difficult job I have done on the Max since I have had it. The major problem I had was during reassembly. It took forever to get the pipe and bolt holes to line back up properly, but with the help of my awesome neighbor we finally got all of them lined up and put back together...except 2. The small support bracket on the h-pipe that has 2 bolts that go through it would not line up for nothing. I am hoping that the next time I change my oil and the car is actually up on a rack I will be able to finagle these 2 bolts back in place. So new bank 1 converter is on, 2 new o2 sensors installed on the bottom side (the 2 in the manifolds had already been replaced a few months back), and the dtc has been cleared for a couple of days now, and HAS NOT came back on. The best advice I can give anyone who decides to tackle this job on their own is this: spray down all your bolts and nuts with PB Blaster or some other penetrating lubricant several days before you plan to start the job, and if you get to a point where you have having difficulties or getting frustrated, STOP and take a break. Don't let your frustration take over, because this is when you will break something.

Just do both! If one went out the other one isn't that far behind it!

yea i paid a shop 10 hours to swap out my precats w ones i gutted, literally remove and replace w customer supplied parts