cross threaded a valve cover bolt
#1
cross threaded a valve cover bolt
I some how managed to cross thread a front valve cover bolt now its seeping oil pretty good smh. How can i fix this, ive tried putting some gasket maker along the area, but it didnt help.
#2
Remove VC, clean everything, then RTV it. It'll hold. Retap it to do it correctly.
#3
Heli-Coil kit, give that a try. I had a dealership do about the same thing. Took off valve covers so many times they stripped a few bolts. They also never used torque settings, everything was just done by hand, F-d my Sh## up. I went back like 7 times, wasn't leaking fluid for the most part, just pumping oil smells out, then at stoplights the smell would come into the car. They tried the Heli-Coil and that still didn't solve it. I traded in the car after that. Couldn't deal with it anymore.
https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...ands/heli-coil
I wish you luck!
https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...ands/heli-coil
I wish you luck!
#4
Heli-coil would be the best fix if you can reach it with the tools you have.
If you want to go the RTV route do it right. Get some high quality RTV (Permatex grey, hondabond etc...) and let it sit over night before starting the car. Make sure you tighten it down in a pattern going around several times before the final torque. Don't over torque it either.
If you want to go the RTV route do it right. Get some high quality RTV (Permatex grey, hondabond etc...) and let it sit over night before starting the car. Make sure you tighten it down in a pattern going around several times before the final torque. Don't over torque it either.
#5
Heli-coil would be the best fix if you can reach it with the tools you have.
If you want to go the RTV route do it right. Get some high quality RTV (Permatex grey, hondabond etc...) and let it sit over night before starting the car. Make sure you tighten it down in a pattern going around several times before the final torque. Don't over torque it either.
If you want to go the RTV route do it right. Get some high quality RTV (Permatex grey, hondabond etc...) and let it sit over night before starting the car. Make sure you tighten it down in a pattern going around several times before the final torque. Don't over torque it either.
OK im gonna see if i can put some good rtv on that spot. Its pretty easy to access because its right near the injectors.
#7
Heli-Coil kit, give that a try. I had a dealership do about the same thing. Took off valve covers so many times they stripped a few bolts. They also never used torque settings, everything was just done by hand, F-d my Sh## up. I went back like 7 times, wasn't leaking fluid for the most part, just pumping oil smells out, then at stoplights the smell would come into the car. They tried the Heli-Coil and that still didn't solve it. I traded in the car after that. Couldn't deal with it anymore.
https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...ands/heli-coil
I wish you luck!
https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...ands/heli-coil
I wish you luck!
#9
Like stated above, hondabond seems like a good solution. From what I've heard talking to someone about the hondabond and considering this is just a valve cover it seems to me that putting on the cover minus one bolt and a smear of it and you'd be fine.
They do entire oil pans with it so why would it not work on a simple valve cover? I don't know how to do helicoil but I wouldn't bother considering the situation.
They do entire oil pans with it so why would it not work on a simple valve cover? I don't know how to do helicoil but I wouldn't bother considering the situation.
#10
If it somehow doesn't work you can still fall back on the RTV plan.
#11
The Heli-coil kit would be very easy since you have easy access. It seems intimidating but it's really a simple process if you follow the instructions. Especially since it's just stripped threads in aluminum. This is as easy as it gets.The hole is already there and straight and aluminum is easy to work with. Just one pass with the proper drill, run the tap down it and screw the coil in.
If it somehow doesn't work you can still fall back on the RTV plan.
If it somehow doesn't work you can still fall back on the RTV plan.
#12
Luckily it was in the front, and i was able to drill the hole through to the other side and fish a bolt through, and tighten it with a nut on the other side
#13
Like stated above, hondabond seems like a good solution. From what I've heard talking to someone about the hondabond and considering this is just a valve cover it seems to me that putting on the cover minus one bolt and a smear of it and you'd be fine.
They do entire oil pans with it so why would it not work on a simple valve cover? I don't know how to do helicoil but I wouldn't bother considering the situation.
They do entire oil pans with it so why would it not work on a simple valve cover? I don't know how to do helicoil but I wouldn't bother considering the situation.
#14
Just be sure to clean both surfaces really clean. I would treat it like you were going to be painting it. I'll usually finish by wiping the surface with brake parts cleaner on a CLEAN rag right before applying the RTV. Don't contaminate the surface with oil from inside the VC or head. In this case I'd let it sit over nite or for several hours before starting it.
#15
If you have access to or someone with a welder, you can clean it up and try weld a nut to it. I've been able to do this even when the broken bolt is counter sunk. The weld won't stick to the aluminum, it'll weld to the bolt, expand, contract and thread out. Standard process for broken exhaust manifold studs on aluminum head engines.
#16
Hondabond varies big-time in price by me. $13 or $24. I paid $8-9 for a tube of rtv black so I was surprised they were so close in price to the cheap one.
Amazon has it too i believe.
I think you really have to let it cure well or results will be poor.
Amazon has it too i believe.
I think you really have to let it cure well or results will be poor.
#17
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