5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

5th gen evaporator replacement

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Old 12-06-2018, 03:05 PM
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5th gen evaporator replacement

Sorry to make a whole new thread for this but I can't seem to find the right information, does anyone know if the 5th gen evaporator cores come out through the glovebox? I'm working on my 2001 max. I found tons of info on the 4th gen but has anyone done it on the 5th. I know it's a similar body style and alldata says 1.6hrs but I came across some people saying you have to remove the crash bar? I can't seem to get a solid answer. Alldata doesn't display any procedure. Any solid answers would be great if anyone has messed with this gen.
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:39 AM
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I looked at mine last night a lil after I got home from work and it looks like the blower housing is molded into the box unlike the 4th gens, so my plan is once my core and expansion valve and o ring kit arrive, I'm gonna stay after at work and give her hell. I need to get this car done so I have a reliable max that has working a/c. Can't be putting an infant in a 320whp turbo cobalt coupe. And even though my max has 270k she starts everyday, doesn't leak or burn oil. Gets me to work and I don't have a car payment on it. I've replaced so much already on this car but I'm glad I do what I do for a living, parts are cheap. What sucks is i no longer work for nissan so i can't look up the official procedure. I went to acura. I'll let you know if I'm able to stop by my old work and call in a favor for them to print the procedure if we get stuck.
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:55 AM
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I got some luck with looking up heater core replacement on our gen and there was a guy that had it removed and even stated that it is different than the 4th gen, he snuck out his heater core, of course he didn't state how he got it out but I seen in the picture he had the airbag popped up? Maybe for extra clearance? Hopefully this helps us
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:11 PM
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Ok no prob, my parts just showed up at my work as well. So I will be embarking on this soon. Tomorrow I will see if my buddy at nissan can do some digging for me and maybe I can ask my old senior master tech if he ever done one.
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:12 PM
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Are you Just replacing the engine or doing a 3.5l swap?
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:22 PM
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That's a cool project, lots of work there. The newer 3.5l engines are pretty solid, allot better than the 3.5 that came in our gen from the factory. First couple of years of 3.5l I can't tell you how many timing chains I've done on them. How are you going to bypass the throttle by wire and the Nats system?
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Old 12-08-2018, 03:52 AM
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That's right, yours has the 3.5l, that was the first throttle by wire throttle body setup. I was thinking you had the 3.0l still but I think 01 02 was the last year for the 3.0l. Hey I had that person respond back to me on how he got it out, I'm going to try and copy and paste the thread link for you on here
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Old 12-08-2018, 03:53 AM
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https://maxima.org/forums/showthread...2&goto=newpost
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Old 12-08-2018, 03:33 PM
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Maybe after removing the airbag it will be easier? Idk, gonna mess with it next week too and then update
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Old 12-09-2018, 05:26 AM
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Hopefully, I mean I feel like it can't be that incredibly hard considering another member removed his whole heater core without taking the dash out, this is one of the last remaining parts I have to replace on this car. The previous owner already replaced the compressor and condenser. She finally sets all the emission monitors with no codes for the first time in a long time.
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:43 AM
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Old 12-10-2018, 08:08 AM
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Yeah I seen that video, the one where roll bar is in the way. Hopefully I will do what he did and undo the dash bolts on that side and sneak it out.
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Old 12-10-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobaltss
Yeah I seen that video, the one where roll bar is in the way. Hopefully I will do what he did and undo the dash bolts on that side and sneak it out.
the crash bar / roll bar has it's own bolts, i undid the ones on the side by side i mean the side of the dash with the passenger vent, i don't means it's right be hind the vent but, in the generals area, it doesn't come loose either i had to put a pry bar behind and and stuck in like a 1/4" or 1/2" nut or piece of metal to hold it. Just wedged it in between the bar and mounting plate it was bolted too. then i had enough room to wrestle the box out, it is NOT going to "just come out" either, it is a compact tight fit to jiggle and rotate and move forward and move back and tilt etc etc.

if you need to remove the entire dash and cut stuff, i'd question your logic/process. i found once i removed all the bolts/mounts the box was loose the only thing keeping it the car was not being able to pull it ALL the way out just half way out mostly out. i was so close, then i noticed it was bumping up on the crash bar inside the dash, removed the bolts and wedged in the spacer so i had another half inch or so and was JUST able pull the box all the way the out.

then pull the evap core cleaned with foaming acid cleaner used on outdoor center A/C systems when to wal-mart and bought some adhesive back foam strip and re did the foam strips on the box and once the evap core was dry i put it back together and reinstalled it. the A/C has been working great, since.

i'f pull the dash this ***** is getting some serious restoration work and wiring harness upgrades.
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:28 AM
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Thank you so much for the info, seriously. Now I know what to expect. She is getting a new evaluator and expansion valve and I got a new o ring kit, all from four seasons, not the cheap stuff. Then hopefully the a/c will be mint. Cause nothing under the hood is leaking, I used dye after dye and evaporator leak is hard to find if it's not bad enough because the water that comes out of the drain tube washes off the dye and its hard to tell. The compressor and condensor are newer, I replaced every o ring.
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:33 AM
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For anyone that still needs info on this though it's not as common as the fourth gen, I didn't get a chance to take pics but I installed my new evaporator and expansion valve. Removed the glovebox (6 screws and the light connector). Unplugged and unscrewed blower motor, unplugged blower resistor, some sort of blend door connector towards the top, removed right front lower kick panel, removed the air bag assembly (2 twelve mm. Bolts and connector). This helps with getting to the upper evap housing bolts and upper crash bar bolts. Removed a ten mm to the right of the opening that holds a black connector relay housing. Removed 2 10 mm. Bolts for a small bracket to the right that the black plastic piece. Removed the 6-8 10mm bolts that hold the evap box to the dash, removed the two a/c lines on the engine compartment side of the firewall by removing the 10mm, pull the lines out, and then there is 2 allen head bolts, I can't remember the size exactly. Wiggle and pull out the expansion valve, then go inside and last but not least I removed the 2 12mm nuts that bolt the crash bar in. The airbag removal makes getting to the top but easier and I got the the lower 12mm with a semi deep socket, swivel, and a extension. Then either have someone pry out on the bar or like the other person said jam something under the plate. I pulled the weather stripping partially out of the door jam right next to where the roll bar is under the dash, used my knee and pushed on the pry bar while driving the box out and down, (please note while removing, release the white tab on top of the housing to the left where it meets the heater box cause you may break that). It's not easy to remove, deep breaths and making sure your not cracking or breaking anything. Then once you get it out it's 7 screws I think and 3 black spring clips that holds it together, remove the evaporator and replace. I used foam wrap around the lines that go through the firewall to help kinda seal against stuff coming in. I reinstalled everything, used new o rings on everything, you can spray them down with silicone spray or soak them in oil. I left the expansion valve for last since you can install it through the firewall side and I believe it helps with clearance. Hope this helps, sorry I didn't get pics, was in a rush. Takes about 2 hours
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Old 12-16-2018, 05:50 PM
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No problem, you'll see that it's the top of the blower motor housing that smacks the roll bar when you go to pull forward and down. Then it kept getting hung up on the right front kick panel so I pulled that off and it helped with clearance. It's not a terrible job, better than removing the dash. If I had more time I would of snapped pictures but I was rushing because my work was closing lol. If you run into anything or have questions i will try my best to help. Also grab cabin filters, may as well replace those while your in there.
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