Transmission questions
I have a 2001 Maxima that I've been kinda restoring after an accident. Everything is working fine right now.
But the auto transmission has a moderately hard shift from 1st to 2nd, not so hard it jerks you or anything but it's very noticeable and not really a great feeling. I've done some research and found its probably either the drop resistor or the engine/transmission mounts. I checked the resistor and it read 12.7 Ohms which is within spec (10-15 Ohms) so I'm thinking its probably the mounts especially considering the car has almost 200K on the clock and they're still OEM. I haven't had a chance to take a good look at them but I'm also not sure what to look for exactly. I'm also planning to unplug the electric ones and if needed replace them with the non-electric as they can apparently short out and fry the ECU, which has already happened but because of the IACV valve. What's the deal with these cars and minor components destroying the computer?! Anyways I've also dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets and done a second drain and fill with max life, I'm planning on another this spring. Do you think I should add lubeguard? I've heard a lot of good things about it both as a preventative maintenance item and a dirty fix. But some people have said to add lubeguard black to make the generic ATF like max life have the friction characteristics of the original Nissan Matic-D fluid. I was planning on using the red anyways but if black (the heavy friction modifier) will be better I will use it. What do you think? Also, will it be ok to wait to replace the mounts (assuming they are bad) until spring/summer? I don't exactly relish the idea of working on them for several hours in sub-arctic temperatures. Also, just a random bit, would anyone be interested in seeing a write up of how to drop the transmission plan? I took pictures and documented the process when I did it. |
Originally Posted by Jacob42
(Post 9190104)
I have a 2001 Maxima that I've been kinda restoring after an accident. Everything is working fine right now.
But the auto transmission has a moderately hard shift from 1st to 2nd, not so hard it jerks you or anything but it's very noticeable and not really a great feeling. I've done some research and found its probably either the drop resistor or the engine/transmission mounts. I checked the resistor and it read 12.7 Ohms which is within spec (10-15 Ohms) so I'm thinking its probably the mounts especially considering the car has almost 200K on the clock and they're still OEM. I haven't had a chance to take a good look at them but I'm also not sure what to look for exactly. I'm also planning to unplug the electric ones and if needed replace them with the non-electric as they can apparently short out and fry the ECU, which has already happened but because of the IACV valve. What's the deal with these cars and minor components destroying the computer?! Anyways I've also dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets and done a second drain and fill with max life, I'm planning on another this spring. Do you think I should add lubeguard? I've heard a lot of good things about it both as a preventative maintenance item and a dirty fix. But some people have said to add lubeguard black to make the generic ATF like max life have the friction characteristics of the original Nissan Matic-D fluid. I was planning on using the red anyways but if black (the heavy friction modifier) will be better I will use it. What do you think? Also, will it be ok to wait to replace the mounts (assuming they are bad) until spring/summer? I don't exactly relish the idea of working on them for several hours in sub-arctic temperatures. With this background, here are my recommendations:
I suspect you don't need to replace them (I haven't, still on the originals at 155k ). |
Thanks @maxiiiboy that write up is really good! Thanks for sending it my way. I can't wait for the weekend to get all of that done!
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Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
(Post 9190107)
I used to have this problem, and I fixed it by multiple D&Fs (drain & fill) and by installing a grounding kit.
With this background, here are my recommendations:
I suspect you don't need to replace them (I haven't, still on the originals at 155k ). |
Originally Posted by User1
(Post 9191306)
I'll have one up by Sunday. I'll be sure and get plenty of pics and a rationale for each power lead. I'm no EE but let me know what you think! Stay tuned for "Engine Grounds".
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For more info on grounding points see the FSM EL 18-29. Link provided for the 2001 maxima.
I couldn't find a grounding kit made specifically for our cars and frankly was not impressed with the price of the others that are available. So I made my own, it's really quite easy, I used the crimp on style connectors and some old wire. I used one of the transmission coolant line mounts, and the main engine grounding point and just ran both right to the battery. You can ground many more points but for now I decided to just stick with the engine/trans. If you really want you can put grounding wires all around the car if you do the easiest way would be to have them all run to a central point like a strut mount then to the battery, that way you don't have a bunch of random wires all trying to fit on one battery terminal. Full FSM download |
I have used Lubegard Red in my 99 Avalon before... it shifted better after adding it. Mind you, I was using off the shelf Dex III/merc, and I did 3 drain/fills with 1000 mile intervals before adding it on the last fluid change. I don't know how it would help in an A33, which sounds like it has a very particular kind of fluid.
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I would take it to the stealership and let them do a flush and oil change on your tranny...it's about $120
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