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After getting warm I get a crank no start situation
I just bought an 03 maxima. It starts fine when the motor is cold, but after you drive it and heat it up it gives a crank no start. I have had it on the computer and change the camshaft position sensor. Still does the same thing. Put it back on the computer and it shows no codes. I noticed that the radiator fans aren’t running but not over heating. I’ve chased about everything I can think of to no conclusions. When it starts it runs perfectly smooth just when it gets warm it doesn’t restart. Also I can take the ground off the battery for about 2 mins and it will start right back up . Any suggestions? |
Originally Posted by Stentdoc
(Post 9197464)
I just bought an 03 maxima. It starts fine when the motor is cold, but after you drive it and heat it up it gives a crank no start. I have had it on the computer and change the camshaft position sensor. Still does the same thing. Put it back on the computer and it shows no codes. I noticed that the radiator fans aren’t running but not over heating. I’ve chased about everything I can think of to no conclusions. When it starts it runs perfectly smooth just when it gets warm it doesn’t restart. Also I can take the ground off the battery for about 2 mins and it will start right back up . Any suggestions? Be aware: You car has an electronic TB control, so you must be careful not to touch/move the plate. There are many threads discussing this subject. |
I tried cleaning the throttle bottle
I tried cleaning that last night, cleaning it with throttle body clearer real good getting a good bit of stuff out and figured that would get it but drove it afterwards and same deal when it gets good and warm no start. A friend of mine who is a reputable mechanic said maybe try the ECT sensor and see if it makes any difference since I have the issue with the fans not kicking on. I tested the fans with 12 volt power directly to the fan motor and they run that way. Has anybody ever had a no start when warm due to ECT sensor? im no mechanical wiz lol I’m the son of a heavy equipment mechanic but chose a different career I’m navigating “or trying to “ on common sense and help from others |
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
(Post 9197467)
You need to clean your throttle body. I am pretty sure your problem will go away once you do that.
Be aware: You car has an electronic TB control, so you must be careful not to touch/move the plate. There are many threads discussing this subject. |
Yes, you can try changing the ECTS. It's not expensive https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+sensor,4748
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EVT sensor
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
(Post 9197501)
Yes, you can try changing the ECTS. It's not expensive https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+/+sensor,4748
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Does the red light by the clock stay on when you try to start the car?
The other security system is the NATS/NVIS system. This one centers around the chip in the ignition key. As you probably know, the ignition keys have to be programmed to the car. This system has been known to burp and activate by itself. When activated, the NATS system will allow the starter to crank the engine, but the engine will not start because NATS has turned the fuel injectors off. The red led in with the clock will be illuminated when trying to start the car if NATS is activated. https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-fuses-ok.html |
Sounds like you are having the exact same issue as this guy:
His problem was the fuel pump (faulty check valve on the sending unit not getting sufficient pressure after warmup.) Also note that he says pulling the temperature switch wire harness would eventually allow the car to start since by pulling the harness the ECM thinks it's a cold start and adjusts the timing to compensate. You may be essentially doing the same thing by pulling the ground cable off the battery. Hope this helps, good luck |
NATS system
Originally Posted by TallTom
(Post 9197507)
Does the red light by the clock stay on when you try to start the car?
The other security system is the NATS/NVIS system. This one centers around the chip in the ignition key. As you probably know, the ignition keys have to be programmed to the car. This system has been known to burp and activate by itself. When activated, the NATS system will allow the starter to crank the engine, but the engine will not start because NATS has turned the fuel injectors off. The red led in with the clock will be illuminated when trying to start the car if NATS is activated. https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-fuses-ok.html |
Just out of curiosity, when you say changed the camshaft position sensor - did you swap in an OEM part? Many people have tried using knock offs; which for many things are fine, but in this case, they will just make things worse. Also, it helps if you change both cam sensors and the crank sensor at the same time.
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Werd, Hitachi or OEM (which is normally Hitachi made) are the only stable ones. Swap out the crankshaft and two cam sensors at the same time.
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i have had this issue over the years, it went away though, but it was to my knowledge a dirty throttle body plate
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BUT.....he said he could disconnect the battery ground for a few minutes and it will start again properly. That's strange.
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Originally Posted by MichMaxFan
(Post 9197654)
BUT.....he said he could disconnect the battery ground for a few minutes and it will start again properly. That's strange.
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Originally Posted by chop_sooie
(Post 9197678)
That's why I find it amazing that everyone is completely ignoring the fact that it's the fuel pump, as shown in the video I posted above.
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Originally Posted by Chris8428
(Post 9197758)
Makes sense. Does this mean the original poster of the thread would not hear the fuel pump and or relay come on when you try to start it when hot? Not hearing it prime the system?
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Originally Posted by TallTom
(Post 9198084)
Dude never came back so we may never know.
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