Jacob42

I've decided that I'm cursed. Today I had the bright idea to do an oil change, so I did. I changed the oil and filter on the engine and a fluid drain and fill on the transmission. Very basic. I've done it before with no problems. The only thing I did differently this time was I installed a magnetic drain bolt that's slightly longer than the original but I doubt it could cause this.
Anyways after changing the oil I decided to take out the injector and fuel pump fuses so it could crank and fill the oil filter before starting. Well this was a bad idea because it cranked about 2 times then there was a click or hitting like sound and it stopped. Now it wont crank at all it just clicks and does nothing. I put the fuses back in and checked all the ignition related fuses and they are all good. There is new oil in, and nothing out of the ordinary happened during the oil change. I tried hitting the starter solenoid but that didn't do anything. And on the far chance it was some how hydro-locked I took out all the plugs and tried to crank it but again nothing but a click sound. I'm stumped as to why this would happen.

DougR

Clean battery terminals, recharge battery, get battery tested, measure voltage at battery and starter. I know you didn't do anything to the battery, but you want to make sure it's good.

BronxSleeperMax187

The starters on these cars go a lot....easy to replace and cheap.

Jacob42

I let it sit overnight with the battery disconnected so the computer could completely reset. and during this time I cleaned the terminals and charged the battery. But it had no effect. I also tried to turn the engine with a wrench on the harmonic balancer but it wouldn't turn. Granted I didn't try very hard because I didn't want to mess it up any more but I'm a little worried it could be locked up...
With regards to the starter is it possible for it go go out suddenly like that? There was no warning or signs of a bad starter, is there a way to test it before replacing it?

DougR

Measure voltage across battery terminals. It should be 12.6 volts or more. Take the battery in to be tested. You could have an internally damaged connection. When you are sure the battery is good, check voltage at the starter. If that's OK, pull the starter to have it tested or test it yourself.

Jacob42

Battery checked out good, and I did the diagnostic procedure in the fsm to test the starter circuit and it was fine so I pulled the starter and it is also fine! At least according to my homemade test. I'm going to take it to auto-zone tomorrow and have them check it as well. But this doesn't bode very well with me, I'm starting to fear the worst that there might have been some kind of freak engine damage that's made it seize, I haven't tried to turn it again, does anyone know if its supposed to spin clockwise or counter clockwise (from the perspective of the harmonic balancer)? It's the VQ30DE engine

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Are you talking about the fast clicking sound like a dead battery?

Jacob42

It's not a fast clicking sound, it makes one click then a steady high pitched whine, I'm taking the starter and battery in today to have them checked.

Jacob42

So I just got back from Orilleys and the battery and starter both tested as normal. So now it looks like there is something wrong with the engine making it not turn. Does anyone have an idea what could cause this? The cars been well cared for and I don't know how a simple oil change could cause something like this. Could the magnetic drain plug somehow mess it up? I want to see if I can rotate it by hand, does anyone know what direction I should turn it?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

bad starter solenoid

DougR

A high pitched whine with no pinion engagement indicates a bad solenoid. A high pitched whine with pinion engagement but no crank indicates a bad pinion gear.

Here's a copy of the repair manual, section engine starter. Look at picture on page SC-9. Magnetic switch assembly throws pinion assembly out and to the left to engage with ring gear. Retest starter yourself. Does solenoid core move? Does the shift lever move? Does the pinion assembly move? If yes to all three, then verify that the pinion assembly is good. Rotate teeth that engage with ring gear. Pinion gear teeth should rotate freely in one direction (without armature rotation) and lock up in the other direction (armature now rotates). If pinion gear rotates freely in both directions while armature does not rotate, then pinion is bad.

Check for missing teeth on ring gear before installing starter. If teeth are gone, rotate engine a little bit so that starter will engage with good teeth, then install starter.

If ring gear, solenoid and pinion test good and engine does not crank, proceed as follows. If starter IS NOT rotating, begin electrical diagnosis on page SC-6. Trace the circuitry, fuses, relays for M/T or A/T. If starter IS rotating, but engine does not crank, then solenoid, pinion or ring gear is bad, retest those components. Solenoid must throw pinion out to engage ring gear. Pinion must lock up in order to rotate ring gear and free wheel in opposite direction to disengage from ring gear when engine starts.

https://www.dropbox.com/l/scl/AAAXFL...CMwBT2PK592y6c

My 3.0 engine rotates clockwise when standing on right side of vehicle and facing the right front fender. It's ok to first rotate counterclockwise about 5-10 degrees if you think the engine is locked up.

BronxSleeperMax187

Just buy a starter and put it in and try it if it doesn't work return it....they won't know its Autozone lol.....also you said you removed some fuses.....do you hear the fuel pump make noise when you turn the key.....never heard of a fuel pump gp on these cars in all my life.....but the relay maybe since you messed around or something IDK lol....let us know after

BronxSleeperMax187

Derrick2k2 here is the man he will help you the most....answer him

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

I don't think you'd be getting any whine from the starter if the engine was locked up. Just a click and silence. It sounds like the solenoid isn't working correctly. That might not show up on a test. The solenoid might move in a test but not be strong enough to work in the car. I've personally seen bad starters pass the test more than once.

Have you hotwired the starter while it's in the car? That'll eliminate any other issues from the test. It'll turn over or it wont. If it turns over you've got a problem with the electronics somewhere. If it still doesn't turn over then It's the starter. Just make sure the car isn't in gear and the ignition is off because this overrides everything else. I highly doubt your motor is locked up or you stripped teeth off the ring gear. Cranking it a few degrees at the balancer bolt will eliminate both concerns though.

I'm sure the new plug isn't causing this. There are no sensors or moving parts anywhere near there.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Here is a link to a thread that could help you diagnose the problem. Auto stores testing starters is somewhat hit and miss. My experience was with autozone. It sounds like you need to replace the starter.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...rt-thread.html

Jacob42

Thanks for all the replies and helpful information! I rotated the engine a bit and didn't see any broken teeth on the fly-wheel, so I just put the starter back in and gave it another try and it started right up no problem! I have no idea why. I didn't touch anything else but somehow taking it out and putting it back made it want to work. Either that or leaving the battery unplugged again, I took it out the night before to take it to oriellys and put it back in after the starter. Maybe taking out the fuel pump and fuel injector fuses made the computer angry and it just need some time to cool off? Or maybe the starter solenoid has an intermittent fault? I've started it about 5 times since then and it's acting normally so far.

DougR

Good for you! It gets confusing when something unrelated to an oil change appears to break at the exact same time.

Perhaps there was corrosion or contamination on the starter electrical contacts. Clean contacts and outside of solenoid if needed. Or, perhaps the solenoid is working intermittently. However, 5 successful starts is a very good sign. If the problem recurs, record and post a sound recording.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

That's exactly what the solenoids do on every single 5th gen. It will leave you stranded if you push your luck.

DougR

If OP's solenoid is working intermittently, can he trust that a 'rebuilt' starter from O'Reilly's has had the solenoid replaced? Perhaps, OP should be prepared to replace the solenoid rather than get a 'rebuilt' starter. In other posts, it appears that rebuilds by Advance, Denso, Hitachi & Bosch are usually a better bet than AutoZone and O'Reilly's. I wouldn't know who makes a better rebuild. I've always fixed my original starter or alternator.

MichMaxFan

Interesting...so where is this solenoid that may go bad? Is it ON the starter?

DougR

Yes, it's on the starter. Search "starter testing procedure" on YouTube.