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-   -   Here's what I want to do... what do I need? (https://maxima.org/forums/6th-generation-maxima-2004-2008/302719-heres-what-i-want-do-what-do-i-need.html)

chrisaust May 17, 2005 08:46 AM

Here's what I want to do... what do I need?
 
Parents just informed me I have a few grand in stock given to me over the years by my grandparents, and I'm looking to redeem it, put most into a retirement account, but save maybe $1500 and do some mods to my '04. Here's what I want, and I'd love it if you could tell me exactly what items I'd need to buy to have these things done... By the way, I'll probably have all of this done by a shop.

1. Greddy SP2 catback exhaust... What all do I need to get to put this on? Just the ~$700 system through cattman?
2. Rear sway bar... From stillen?
3. Front bumper buffed to get rid of knicks and dents and returned to original condition, then 3M clear bra installed... can you find a list of reputable installers on any website for this, or should I just call around to see who does it?
4. Paint brake calipers red to match car color... will the body shop that installes the exhaust be able to do this for me?
5. Drilled rotors?? I dont know much about this, what is the benefit of getting these? Where should I get them from?
6. Lowering kit.... what do I need for this? I know the springs, but dont you need struts too? Are they out yet for the 6th gens? How much should I lower the front and back? I still only have the stock 17" wheels on, but if I ever upgraded I'd probably go no bigger than 19", so I'd want to leave enough room for when I do that.

So you're suggestions on each of these mods is much appreciated. If you have the time to answer each one # by #, that would be so helpful, as I'll probably be jotting down notes of what brand I need, etc. Thanks in advance!!

viguera May 17, 2005 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by chrisaust
5. Drilled rotors?? I dont know much about this, what is the benefit of getting these? Where should I get them from?

People will argue that with the right pads, drilled or blanks are the same nowadays if you buy them from a reputable source, and that drilled/slotted are for looks. As far as where to get them from, check out that GD that Jason (automax_95?) was running on the GD folder. Not sure if you can still get in on it, but at least you can order them from him.


Originally Posted by chrisaust
6. Lowering kit.... what do I need for this? I know the springs, but dont you need struts too? Are they out yet for the 6th gens? How much should I lower the front and back? I still only have the stock 17" wheels on, but if I ever upgraded I'd probably go no bigger than 19", so I'd want to leave enough room for when I do that.

You can get the Eibachs and hope you don't have problems like some people. Plenty of threads on that around here... :)

NismoMax80 May 17, 2005 09:01 AM

2. Awaitin Cattman to send my progress sounds a lot better and is cheaper than Stillen
3. Check region forum
4. G2 paint is easy brush on. I found it on eBay.
5. AuToMaX_95 has a group deal for this month. Best quality and prices found anywhere. I've seen them work, bought my own, and his rep is impeccable on the org.
6. ActiveTuning has adjustable struts and shocks. springs seem "iffy" now out there.

Tek-Niq May 17, 2005 09:27 AM

get the swaybar from cattman.........

eibach has problems with our struts.... they just finished the D2 coilovers look into that...

if you don't race your car, mod the interior with dvd and tv's... the mods we got aren't anything to drool over....

chrisaust May 17, 2005 09:37 AM

I've thought about DVD/screens in the max... if I did it, it would be 2 screens in each of the headrests... but I dont think they'd get much use right now, so I'm going to hold off until I maybe have a family and kids in the backseat....

I defintiely dont race it, just want to upgrade it, make it look good! :)

chrisaust May 17, 2005 09:39 AM

so for the lowering kit, go with eibach springs... and their D2 coilovers, and I should be fine?

chrisaust May 17, 2005 09:44 AM

So far... here's what I'm getting from you guys...

1. Greddy SP2 is great... does the full kit come with everything I should need? Or is there another package to add to it?
2. Cattman sway bar instead of stillen...
4. I'd want to do the calipers the same time I'm getting everything else done so when the car's up on a lift I can get to the wheels more easily. While I'm at it, would you suggest doing a thorough cleaning of the insides of the wheel wells and brakes, etc? I notice at least on my Max a lot more brake dust buildup on the rims vs other cars Ive had...
5. Drilled rotors on our Max would be mainly for looks, wouldnt affect performance too much
6. see above post

Any other fairly inexpensive mods you guys would suggest that would add something to the car? I want to get the lower plastic bumper piece painted to match the car, instead of the black, what about adding the billet lower grill piece down there as well? I've got the trenz grille in now... and I think the lower matching piece would complement it nicely.

chrisaust May 17, 2005 10:16 AM

Also, for the brakes... what would you suggest I get? They've got several options, "Blanks, Cross Drilled, Slotted, Dimpled, Cross Drilled/Slotted or Dimple/Slotted." Not really sure which is better, looks best, or best performance, so you're suggestions are appreciated on these as well! :)

Gotta order them by the 30th!

NismoMax80 May 17, 2005 11:28 AM

coilovers include springs....
rotors, I prefer slotted: wipe the pads clean for even wear, allow room for water to escape, and look cool. Drilled look good, but the gases they intended to release no longer are a problem. also some say they reduce the integrity of the rotor. Racers replace them often, so don't care. Of course blanks today perform just as well, both are more for looks.

chernmax May 17, 2005 12:11 PM

Ok, here is my spin. Greddy SP2 (seen prices range from $650-$850), Installation Add $125-$175. Lower Rear Sway bar $159, install maybe $25 (15 minute job, don't let anyone tell you different). Stillen Front Upper Strut Brace $148.50, you can do this one yourself with a good rachet set (the required Allen came with my kit) and the ability to read(trust me). EiBach Lowering Springs $276.75, maybe $150-$225 to install (front is the hardest, rear are easy). Add 10-15% for shipping cost on all items. Last, brake caliper paint, buy G2 $35-$40, this job takes a while and better left to the owner, sorry not sure who in CA would do it, I cannot use the East Coast language on this site on what people told me. Easiest way I did it, jacked up both front tires, removed, put the car on Jack Stands. Get to work, than repeated the process for the back, took me 4 hours however I took my time and applied 3 coats, ensure you thoughly clean you calipers first before appling, again reading skills are required and a steady hand. Last, after letting the paint dry a little in the hot sun till I could touch it, I drove the car hard and braked harder to heat up the calipers, believe it or not it's a great way to help bake them... Just make sure it's not raining. Ok, I'll stop here, I think we are pretty close if not slightly over the $1500 mark. Good Luck

chernmax May 17, 2005 12:15 PM

Sorry, YES, the Greddy SPII comes with everything you will need, absolutely NO cutting, drilling or welding required, The Greddy is a true bolt up system... (mine took all of 55 minutes to install and cost me $125 in installation here in Southern MD).

chernmax May 17, 2005 12:31 PM

[QUOTE=viguera]People will argue that with the right pads, drilled or blanks are the same nowadays if you buy them from a reputable source, and that drilled/slotted are for looks. As far as where to get them from, check out that GD that Jason (automax_95?) was running on the GD folder. Not sure if you can still get in on it, but at least you can order them from him.

Sorry I disagree with one point, Drilled and slotted rotors are NOT only for looks.

Quote" Cross-drilled, slotted, or cross-drilled and slotted rotors offer certain advantages, depending on the user's vehicle, driving style, and individual needs. All styles provide cooler brake temperatures as a result of dissipating the gasses burning off the brake pads. This "de-gassing" or "out-gassing" will keep the pads in contact with the rotor, resulting in less brake fade after repeated stops. Improved bite on the brake pads will also enhance brake performance from each option. All rotors will promote improved wet weather braking as water is swept between the pad and rotor.

Just my 3 cents...

chrisaust May 17, 2005 12:59 PM

Awesome guys, thats exactly the info I need. :) I got a PM for $679 shipped for the Greddy... I sent off a msg to AutoMax_95 about the rotors... Sway bar is self-explanatory... painting the brake calipers might be harder since I dont have the eqt to jack up my car like that... I'll see what I can do...

Last question I think I need to ask... For the Eibach lowering springs, is there anything specific now that everyone agrees on I need to pay attention to when having them put on, so they dont ruin anything?

James_05SE May 17, 2005 01:01 PM

Drilled and slotted rotors are ONLY for looks. The outgassing problem no longer exists with todays friction materials.

From Baer's website :


In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today´s race pad technology, ´outgassing´ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ´outgassing´. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ´outgassing´, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

NismoMax80 May 17, 2005 01:04 PM

like i said, the benefit of "out-gassing" is out-dated. it's no longer needed. but it is still said that the holes and slots provide run-off for water. plus the slots wipe the pads clean/even.

i think the eibachs are like other parts, some are noisy others aren't, independent of installation.

Chris_RI May 18, 2005 06:35 AM

I can tell you right now that all those mods will exceed what you want to spend. Some you can do yourself. I am no expert but here is what I will tell you...

My bumper was a distater from 1 year of highway driving. I wanted the bumper repainted and the hood had a dent/cut in it so that needed fixing too. My body show recommended a new bumber because it was so bad and it would be easier on them so they wouldnt have to sand and fix it up... and it would be $100 more on my part for the new bumper but i save $$$ in the labor they would of charged and a new bumper is flawless all it requires is a paint job. With the new bumper you dont run the risk of old chips reappearing. Also with the new bumper I no longer have the holes for the license plate, just 2 small grooves where the holes would go. looks supreme. the bumper/paint was around $500. Now, I had this done 3 weeks ago, been driving slow since and have an appointment Friday at the infiniti dealer to install the clear bra. the clear bra is going to be $550 installed. that covers hood/bumper/fender/mirrors. 2 sets, the bumper set and the hood/mirror/fender set. the bumper sent is substantially higher in cost than the other. like $300. and the hood set is like $150. www.xpel.com for prices. I am going to the infiniti dealer for the install. I hear some people will install for 450, but I feel safer taking to a business/dealer than an individual. To clean up your front end, you looking at at least 800-1k. I think thats the best investment too. all the other stuff you will never see you money in the future whereas the bumper will always look good, and a tradein value might help you there. I love the satisfaction of a flawless paint job.

chrisaust May 18, 2005 08:16 AM

Chris, good suggestions.... I see a clear bra "kit" on ebay for $199... made of 3m stuff, dont know why it would be any different than something from xpel... has anyone gotten it off ebay? Still has a 5-year warranty against fading/peeling/etc.

There's a bodyshop that I've taken previous cars too, I'm gonna swing by and get an estimate from them for fixing up the scratches/dings. Only thing is out here in CA you have to have the front license plate so if I were to get a new bumper I'd have to have the holes drilled again for the plate.

Chris_RI May 18, 2005 10:37 AM

see how long u can go without getting stopped, i havent had a problem yet knock on wood. its required here too.

DeusExMaxima May 18, 2005 06:52 PM

Its better to pay for 25 dollar ticket than drill holes in front bumper for license plate

SLuxury May 18, 2005 07:11 PM

Having replaced my rotors with drilled/slotted, I can say first hand that there is an improvement (using the same pads that were on with my original rotors).

My Eibachs made noise the first day in the front/passenger side, but after a day of hard driving, the noise was gone. There are little tips on here that can help so you don't have to redo anything.

I installed a rear sway bar on my eclipse and noticed a difference, but people on the board say that it is probably one of the best suspension upgrades currently available.

Good luck with whatever you decide on!

chrisaust May 18, 2005 09:37 PM

Well I just installed a carbon-fiber front strut bar this evening, so I'll test that out tomorrow... but I think for sure im getting the rear sway bar and probably the Greddy exhaust... Will get an estimate on fixing all the dings and then doing the 3M clear bra.... Nothing I really want to do to the inside right now, probably just tv screens eventually in the headrests...

Will someone figure out how to make the skyview roof a functioning sunroof that slides to the side, and both of them could open? how insanely cool would THAT be?


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