How about a Supercharged 6th Gen?
#1
How about a Supercharged 6th Gen?
Hey Guys!!
I spoke to some dudes at Stillen today about a possible supercharger kit for the 6th Gen. Stillen was to begin supposedly but they did not fill the need because of the front wheel drive on our lovely vehicles. But... my contact said that Stillen is willing to try again as long as the demand is there.
So my question is... who would honestly pay for the supercharger kit?
I spoke to some dudes at Stillen today about a possible supercharger kit for the 6th Gen. Stillen was to begin supposedly but they did not fill the need because of the front wheel drive on our lovely vehicles. But... my contact said that Stillen is willing to try again as long as the demand is there.
So my question is... who would honestly pay for the supercharger kit?
#4
of coarse i doubt i'll be down to be on the list but just to trow a idea out there....whats better a supercharger kit or turbo kit? if they were to make a kit y not make a kit that would be the best out of the 2
#6
Hey Guys!!
I spoke to some dudes at Stillen today about a possible supercharger kit for the 6th Gen. Stillen was to begin supposedly but they did not fill the need because of the front wheel drive on our lovely vehicles. But... my contact said that Stillen is willing to try again as long as the demand is there.
So my question is... who would honestly pay for the supercharger kit?
I spoke to some dudes at Stillen today about a possible supercharger kit for the 6th Gen. Stillen was to begin supposedly but they did not fill the need because of the front wheel drive on our lovely vehicles. But... my contact said that Stillen is willing to try again as long as the demand is there.
So my question is... who would honestly pay for the supercharger kit?
Kamski
#9
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
I like the idea but this is strictly my opinion. In my research I don't think a supercharger will be able to achieve the same power numbers a Turbo can. I still fully support the effort of doing something different though...
#10
Turbos do usually put out more power than a supercharger could, but s/c is usually a "bolt-on" with minimal modifications, as a turbo=tapping in oil pan, piping galore, and so on...I'm not "picking a side," but that's just my input.
Also, if you have a s/c, then you can always go into a Jiffy Lube and tell them that there is an annoying whine at about 2,000-redline...
Also, if you have a s/c, then you can always go into a Jiffy Lube and tell them that there is an annoying whine at about 2,000-redline...
#11
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Turbos do usually put out more power than a supercharger could, but s/c is usually a "bolt-on" with minimal modifications, as a turbo=tapping in oil pan, piping galore, and so on...I'm not "picking a side," but that's just my input.
Also, if you have a s/c, then you can always go into a Jiffy Lube and tell them that there is an annoying whine at about 2,000-redline...
Also, if you have a s/c, then you can always go into a Jiffy Lube and tell them that there is an annoying whine at about 2,000-redline...
#12
I'm interested as well, but depends on how much would cost the kit from Stillen
Just for inspiration:
I found a supercharger kit in Taiwan, made for the Cefiro A33. It costs 75,000.00 TWD = 2,439.82 USD , which is not so expensive. Here is the link with few pics
http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11071024201997
Just for inspiration:
I found a supercharger kit in Taiwan, made for the Cefiro A33. It costs 75,000.00 TWD = 2,439.82 USD , which is not so expensive. Here is the link with few pics
http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11071024201997
#13
I'm interested as well, but depends on how much would cost the kit from Stillen
Just for inspiration:
I found a supercharger kit in Taiwan, made for the Cefiro A33. It costs 75,000.00 TWD = 2,439.82 USD , which is not so expensive. Here is the link with few pics
http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11071024201997
Just for inspiration:
I found a supercharger kit in Taiwan, made for the Cefiro A33. It costs 75,000.00 TWD = 2,439.82 USD , which is not so expensive. Here is the link with few pics
http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11071024201997
Oh wow im so on it right now !! , I just gotta get my cousin to translate some of this **** , being born here sux not able to read Chinese flunetly..
Thanks for the link
#16
#17
This awsome if they make a Sc for a 6gen, gains are usually 100-150hp on SC's. Also superchargers are more reliable for everyday drivin than turbos becuase Sc's usually stay at one settin. Turbos are great also you can gain crazy hp dependin on how much boost you push and so forth. +1 for Cherns car, but as reliable for everyday drivin I say turbos are not as reliable as superchargers more maintinace involved ,you have to check your fuel mixture very important. your boost ect.. plus youll be stompin on that gas pedal evervy time you get a chance wooooosh LOl......... so detanation might happen LOL... Its just my 2cents everyone is different.
#20
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
This awsome if they make a Sc for a 6gen, gains are usually 100-150hp on SC's. Also superchargers are more reliable for everyday drivin than turbos becuase Sc's usually stay at one settin. Turbos are great also you can gain crazy hp dependin on how much boost you push and so forth. +1 for Cherns car, but as reliable for everyday drivin I say turbos are not as reliable as superchargers more maintinace involved ,you have to check your fuel mixture very important. your boost ect.. plus youll be stompin on that gas pedal evervy time you get a chance wooooosh LOl......... so detanation might happen LOL... Its just my 2cents everyone is different.
Turbocharger -VS- Supercharger
The turbocharger and the centrifugal supercharger use the same style of compressor to pump the air into the engine. The main difference is the way that they drive the compressor.
The supercharger uses a belt driven off of the crank shaft to turn the compressor. This has 2 main characteristics:
#1 - It takes horsepower away from the engine to drive the compressor. It will rob power any time the engine is on, just like running your AC, so fuel mileage is typically worse. At WOT when the supercharger is working hard, depending on how much boost you are running, it can take anywhere from 50 to 100+ hp on street applications. The result from this is that you are putting a substantially large demand on the engine and it's components to make additional horsepower that you aren't ever going to see at the tires.
#2 - Next is going to be the way the boost acts because the compressor rpm is tied directly to engine rpm. By design, the centrifugal compressor wheel is not a positive displacement compressor. So this means that it gets more efficient as the rpms increase. This causes the compressor to make more boost as rpm's increase. The higher you rev the engine, the more boost the compressor will make. So you may not have any boost at 2000 rpm, a couple pounds by 3000, 4 psi by 4500 and then the full 6 psi (if that is your max boost) by 6500 rpm. Then when you shift the car and the rpm drops back down to 4500, the boost also drops back down to 4 psi. This is what is called "Supercharger Shift Lag"! This is why you typically don't see a big flat hp and torque curve and the superchargers produce big peak numbers but don't perform so well in the 2-4k rpm ranges.
Because of the belt drive, any change in boost level requires a pulley/belt size change. Running higher boost many times requires that you run a 'cogged' type of belt rather than the standard ribbed belt. This increases the cost and the noise that the drive produces and is obviously something that you can't do 'on the fly'. Larger increases in boost levels also may require changing the compressor head unit which is going to be very costly. The throttle is very responsive and boost is nearly instantaneous but only to the amount that the supercharger is going to produce at that rpm (i.e. - stabbing throttle quickly produces 3 psi at 3k rpm but then you have to wait until the speed of the vehicle picks up and the engine reaches 6500 before you see the full 6 psi).
Most centrifugal superchargers are quite noisy, even at idle due to the complicated gear drive/belt drive systems so make sure that you want your vehicle to produce this kind of noise before making a purchase.
The roots style superchargers are a positive displacement so they will have full boost anywhere from about 1500 rpm to redline. Like the centrifugal they are crank shaft driven so they do suck a fair amount of power off the crank, more so than a centrifugal so you can expect less hp per pound of boost and lower fuel mileage. They are typically a less efficient method to compress air so they put a lot of heat into the air charge. By design they are hard to build a large efficient intercooler into the system so this heat dramatically affects the power that the system makes. Heat creates more volume in the air charge which basically puts less air in the engine and the air that does go in is hot - bad on both accounts if you are trying to make power. Belt driven systems are capable of different boost levels (within fairly small limits without changing compressors) but do require a belt/pulley size change to raise or lower the boost level. These systems tend to have instant throttle response and instantly go to full boost which produces big bottom end power, moderate midrange and poor high rpm performance mainly due to the heat and parasitic loss. Great for burning the tires at a stop light but not very good for a good hard pull on the freeway.
Turbochargers are very similar to the centrifugal supercharger compressor, however they are driven from spent exhaust leaving the engine. They are not 'free' horsepower but they are way more efficient and cause much less of a parasitic loss than the belt driven alternatives. As the turbo puts more air into the engine, the engine produces more exhaust - which spins the turbo faster to put more air into the engine. This process is defined as the 'spooling up' of the turbo. You can think of the snowball effect logically in your mind as the above process continues to build more and more boost but it actually all happens in a fraction of a second.
Turbos typically do not produce boost under 2k rpm but above that they can spool up and produce boost. This allows the compressor to go from zero boost to full boost in a fraction of a second and sometimes within 100 rpm, depending on what gear you are in. Due to the efficiency of the system, they typically get a very high hp per pound of boost. We've seen as high as 50 hp per psi on some systems but 35 hp per 1 psi is more typical. The torque curve of the turbocharger is what is really impressive. They typically will have a huge broad torque curve that gives you massive power and full boost in the 3-5k rpm range, which is where you spend most of your time driving.
Turbochargers typically get better fuel mileage than a stock vehicle so really are a great option with no real downsides. This 'lag' in the system also brings the power in just a little smoother than the superchargers do. This small cushion makes the turbocharger much easier on drive train components and typically keeps the tires hooked up rather than causing them to break loose. Out of all the power adders, the turbocharger produces the most power with the least abuse to the engine and drive train and can typically put more hp at the tires with all other conditions being equal.
The turbo system can also produce different levels of boost which can be switched 'on the fly' and typically are capable of turning the boost and hp way up without any major component changes or additional financial investment in the system. You basically get your cake and get to eat it too. Win-Win in my book.
So depending on what you are looking for, each system is capable of producing lots of added power to your vehicle. Understanding the differences allows you to pick the right system for your needs and for your changing needs down the road.
#22
#25
I went to look where it mounts the plate so that the bar can go across and it doesnt look like theres room for it in the engine bay. Im going to take a good look and compare it after the meet.
there may be hope yet for this setup and run dual rear mount TT..
Anyways this is what my shop is working on now
#27
#28
okay...i went around and ask some teana owners who knew about this setup
what they told me is that this setup does fit in a teana 3.5 engine bay
there is 1 owner who had this kit on the car, but took it off already because it broke his tranny twice
so i guess a tranny upgrade is a must
what they told me is that this setup does fit in a teana 3.5 engine bay
there is 1 owner who had this kit on the car, but took it off already because it broke his tranny twice
so i guess a tranny upgrade is a must
Last edited by wayne6213; 03-16-2008 at 07:35 AM.
#29
yes! this kit is going to fit in a teana 3.5,
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
#30
yes! this kit is going to fit in a teana 3.5,
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
#35
yes! this kit is going to fit in a teana 3.5,
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
#36
well honestly its a start off kit , your investing into the start up kit for 2gs , add on this and that , besides no one buts a stock turbo kit or S/C and not tweak it..
I went to look where it mounts the plate so that the bar can go across and it doesnt look like theres room for it in the engine bay. Im going to take a good look and compare it after the meet.
there may be hope yet for this setup and run dual rear mount TT..
Anyways this is what my shop is working on now
I went to look where it mounts the plate so that the bar can go across and it doesnt look like theres room for it in the engine bay. Im going to take a good look and compare it after the meet.
there may be hope yet for this setup and run dual rear mount TT..
Anyways this is what my shop is working on now
Is that an independant throttle body assembly? :O
DROOLING ON my self..............right now.
#37
yes! this kit is going to fit in a teana 3.5,
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
which will probably fit in a US maxima...pressume they are so similar
this is a basic FI set up, 4.5 bar produced @ 6600rpm
according to the previous owner u can run the kit without an engine management system. he used to have an e-manage blue...but later found out...the car ran exactly the same without it (i am not so sure...coz ppl keep telling me engine is going to blow up, but the owner did run the kit without EMS for more than 1 year.) the little black box is just the control unit for the clutch on the supercharger. one end is connected to the injector so the blower only wrks above 1100 rpm. btw, it's a WAI system, which can be turned into a CAI by modifyng ur nismo intake. everything else is stock on his teana 3.5
power gain is noticeble in this set up. not sure about the exact reason results those broken gear boxes. maybe shift on positive pressure?? or maybe the gear box is just so weak...
i bought the kit from him, and going to install next monday, i am in aus thou.
ps. do u guys think the cvt trans able to handle the power??!!
i will post pic after installation...
#39
Sorry for the long reply but this is something I pulled off the net which helps explain the differences between a Turbo vs Supercharger. This is for information only and not intended to change anyones mind about building an SC Max, I fully support an SC build and like myself I always try to fully understand the differences since for some of us, high cost is involved.
Turbocharger -VS- Supercharger
The turbocharger and the centrifugal supercharger use the same style of compressor to pump the air into the engine. The main difference is the way that they drive the compressor.
The supercharger uses a belt driven off of the crank shaft to turn the compressor. This has 2 main characteristics:
#1 - It takes horsepower away from the engine to drive the compressor. It will rob power any time the engine is on, just like running your AC, so fuel mileage is typically worse. At WOT when the supercharger is working hard, depending on how much boost you are running, it can take anywhere from 50 to 100+ hp on street applications. The result from this is that you are putting a substantially large demand on the engine and it's components to make additional horsepower that you aren't ever going to see at the tires.
#2 - Next is going to be the way the boost acts because the compressor rpm is tied directly to engine rpm. By design, the centrifugal compressor wheel is not a positive displacement compressor. So this means that it gets more efficient as the rpms increase. This causes the compressor to make more boost as rpm's increase. The higher you rev the engine, the more boost the compressor will make. So you may not have any boost at 2000 rpm, a couple pounds by 3000, 4 psi by 4500 and then the full 6 psi (if that is your max boost) by 6500 rpm. Then when you shift the car and the rpm drops back down to 4500, the boost also drops back down to 4 psi. This is what is called "Supercharger Shift Lag"! This is why you typically don't see a big flat hp and torque curve and the superchargers produce big peak numbers but don't perform so well in the 2-4k rpm ranges.
Because of the belt drive, any change in boost level requires a pulley/belt size change. Running higher boost many times requires that you run a 'cogged' type of belt rather than the standard ribbed belt. This increases the cost and the noise that the drive produces and is obviously something that you can't do 'on the fly'. Larger increases in boost levels also may require changing the compressor head unit which is going to be very costly. The throttle is very responsive and boost is nearly instantaneous but only to the amount that the supercharger is going to produce at that rpm (i.e. - stabbing throttle quickly produces 3 psi at 3k rpm but then you have to wait until the speed of the vehicle picks up and the engine reaches 6500 before you see the full 6 psi).
Most centrifugal superchargers are quite noisy, even at idle due to the complicated gear drive/belt drive systems so make sure that you want your vehicle to produce this kind of noise before making a purchase.
The roots style superchargers are a positive displacement so they will have full boost anywhere from about 1500 rpm to redline. Like the centrifugal they are crank shaft driven so they do suck a fair amount of power off the crank, more so than a centrifugal so you can expect less hp per pound of boost and lower fuel mileage. They are typically a less efficient method to compress air so they put a lot of heat into the air charge. By design they are hard to build a large efficient intercooler into the system so this heat dramatically affects the power that the system makes. Heat creates more volume in the air charge which basically puts less air in the engine and the air that does go in is hot - bad on both accounts if you are trying to make power. Belt driven systems are capable of different boost levels (within fairly small limits without changing compressors) but do require a belt/pulley size change to raise or lower the boost level. These systems tend to have instant throttle response and instantly go to full boost which produces big bottom end power, moderate midrange and poor high rpm performance mainly due to the heat and parasitic loss. Great for burning the tires at a stop light but not very good for a good hard pull on the freeway.
Turbochargers are very similar to the centrifugal supercharger compressor, however they are driven from spent exhaust leaving the engine. They are not 'free' horsepower but they are way more efficient and cause much less of a parasitic loss than the belt driven alternatives. As the turbo puts more air into the engine, the engine produces more exhaust - which spins the turbo faster to put more air into the engine. This process is defined as the 'spooling up' of the turbo. You can think of the snowball effect logically in your mind as the above process continues to build more and more boost but it actually all happens in a fraction of a second.
Turbos typically do not produce boost under 2k rpm but above that they can spool up and produce boost. This allows the compressor to go from zero boost to full boost in a fraction of a second and sometimes within 100 rpm, depending on what gear you are in. Due to the efficiency of the system, they typically get a very high hp per pound of boost. We've seen as high as 50 hp per psi on some systems but 35 hp per 1 psi is more typical. The torque curve of the turbocharger is what is really impressive. They typically will have a huge broad torque curve that gives you massive power and full boost in the 3-5k rpm range, which is where you spend most of your time driving.
Turbochargers typically get better fuel mileage than a stock vehicle so really are a great option with no real downsides. This 'lag' in the system also brings the power in just a little smoother than the superchargers do. This small cushion makes the turbocharger much easier on drive train components and typically keeps the tires hooked up rather than causing them to break loose. Out of all the power adders, the turbocharger produces the most power with the least abuse to the engine and drive train and can typically put more hp at the tires with all other conditions being equal.
The turbo system can also produce different levels of boost which can be switched 'on the fly' and typically are capable of turning the boost and hp way up without any major component changes or additional financial investment in the system. You basically get your cake and get to eat it too. Win-Win in my book.
So depending on what you are looking for, each system is capable of producing lots of added power to your vehicle. Understanding the differences allows you to pick the right system for your needs and for your changing needs down the road.
Turbocharger -VS- Supercharger
The turbocharger and the centrifugal supercharger use the same style of compressor to pump the air into the engine. The main difference is the way that they drive the compressor.
The supercharger uses a belt driven off of the crank shaft to turn the compressor. This has 2 main characteristics:
#1 - It takes horsepower away from the engine to drive the compressor. It will rob power any time the engine is on, just like running your AC, so fuel mileage is typically worse. At WOT when the supercharger is working hard, depending on how much boost you are running, it can take anywhere from 50 to 100+ hp on street applications. The result from this is that you are putting a substantially large demand on the engine and it's components to make additional horsepower that you aren't ever going to see at the tires.
#2 - Next is going to be the way the boost acts because the compressor rpm is tied directly to engine rpm. By design, the centrifugal compressor wheel is not a positive displacement compressor. So this means that it gets more efficient as the rpms increase. This causes the compressor to make more boost as rpm's increase. The higher you rev the engine, the more boost the compressor will make. So you may not have any boost at 2000 rpm, a couple pounds by 3000, 4 psi by 4500 and then the full 6 psi (if that is your max boost) by 6500 rpm. Then when you shift the car and the rpm drops back down to 4500, the boost also drops back down to 4 psi. This is what is called "Supercharger Shift Lag"! This is why you typically don't see a big flat hp and torque curve and the superchargers produce big peak numbers but don't perform so well in the 2-4k rpm ranges.
Because of the belt drive, any change in boost level requires a pulley/belt size change. Running higher boost many times requires that you run a 'cogged' type of belt rather than the standard ribbed belt. This increases the cost and the noise that the drive produces and is obviously something that you can't do 'on the fly'. Larger increases in boost levels also may require changing the compressor head unit which is going to be very costly. The throttle is very responsive and boost is nearly instantaneous but only to the amount that the supercharger is going to produce at that rpm (i.e. - stabbing throttle quickly produces 3 psi at 3k rpm but then you have to wait until the speed of the vehicle picks up and the engine reaches 6500 before you see the full 6 psi).
Most centrifugal superchargers are quite noisy, even at idle due to the complicated gear drive/belt drive systems so make sure that you want your vehicle to produce this kind of noise before making a purchase.
The roots style superchargers are a positive displacement so they will have full boost anywhere from about 1500 rpm to redline. Like the centrifugal they are crank shaft driven so they do suck a fair amount of power off the crank, more so than a centrifugal so you can expect less hp per pound of boost and lower fuel mileage. They are typically a less efficient method to compress air so they put a lot of heat into the air charge. By design they are hard to build a large efficient intercooler into the system so this heat dramatically affects the power that the system makes. Heat creates more volume in the air charge which basically puts less air in the engine and the air that does go in is hot - bad on both accounts if you are trying to make power. Belt driven systems are capable of different boost levels (within fairly small limits without changing compressors) but do require a belt/pulley size change to raise or lower the boost level. These systems tend to have instant throttle response and instantly go to full boost which produces big bottom end power, moderate midrange and poor high rpm performance mainly due to the heat and parasitic loss. Great for burning the tires at a stop light but not very good for a good hard pull on the freeway.
Turbochargers are very similar to the centrifugal supercharger compressor, however they are driven from spent exhaust leaving the engine. They are not 'free' horsepower but they are way more efficient and cause much less of a parasitic loss than the belt driven alternatives. As the turbo puts more air into the engine, the engine produces more exhaust - which spins the turbo faster to put more air into the engine. This process is defined as the 'spooling up' of the turbo. You can think of the snowball effect logically in your mind as the above process continues to build more and more boost but it actually all happens in a fraction of a second.
Turbos typically do not produce boost under 2k rpm but above that they can spool up and produce boost. This allows the compressor to go from zero boost to full boost in a fraction of a second and sometimes within 100 rpm, depending on what gear you are in. Due to the efficiency of the system, they typically get a very high hp per pound of boost. We've seen as high as 50 hp per psi on some systems but 35 hp per 1 psi is more typical. The torque curve of the turbocharger is what is really impressive. They typically will have a huge broad torque curve that gives you massive power and full boost in the 3-5k rpm range, which is where you spend most of your time driving.
Turbochargers typically get better fuel mileage than a stock vehicle so really are a great option with no real downsides. This 'lag' in the system also brings the power in just a little smoother than the superchargers do. This small cushion makes the turbocharger much easier on drive train components and typically keeps the tires hooked up rather than causing them to break loose. Out of all the power adders, the turbocharger produces the most power with the least abuse to the engine and drive train and can typically put more hp at the tires with all other conditions being equal.
The turbo system can also produce different levels of boost which can be switched 'on the fly' and typically are capable of turning the boost and hp way up without any major component changes or additional financial investment in the system. You basically get your cake and get to eat it too. Win-Win in my book.
So depending on what you are looking for, each system is capable of producing lots of added power to your vehicle. Understanding the differences allows you to pick the right system for your needs and for your changing needs down the road.