6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

weird engine whine noise

Old 01-22-2010, 03:07 PM
  #201  
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looks like all 04-07 3.5's will need chain tens. shoe replaced,, major nissan screw up,not sure abt 350z
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Old 01-24-2010, 01:34 PM
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Update.. 10 months later, my bad!

Just realized I never got back to everyone on my situation I was having nearly a year ago.

After the mis-diagnosis of an alternator issue which put me out about $700 for no reason, I had the issue re-diagnosed. After about half an hour in the Nissan waiting room, the tech comes out to tell me that it's the timing chain. (The issue I had originally suggested in the first place when going there.)

The good news? Although my car was weeks past the 5 mile/60,000 warranty, the dealer chalked the repair up to the warranty. Over $2K of work was done for free, I was given a loaner car (Chevy Cobalt.. ugh, lol) for free, and I had my car back in a week.

The dealership I went to really stepped up and did the right thing in this instance, and I was thoroughly impressed. Had they correctly diagnosed me originally, I could have ended up paying the $2K instead of the $700 for the new alternator and belts. Instead, for $700 i have a new alternator, as well as the timing chain tensioner fix.
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:53 PM
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Finally got my 04 Maxima back today from having the timing chain fixed (90,000 miles). It's super smooth and quiet (so far) and is a joy to drive again. I did contact Nissan Customer Service, was assigned a case number, and the regional rep contacted me to say that it was over 60,000 miles, and therefore they weren't going to do anything. I had to call 5 times to get that response. What was I thinking anyway??? It's just a defective design that was on it's way to ruining my engine...Oh, and it was really amazing how when I asked the service supervisor to save the old timing chain parts (No Problem!!!), they mysteriously disappeared when it came time for me to pick-up my car. The Service Supervisor's response: "you wouldn't want those old parts anyway, they are just some kind of plastic and they are in pieces when you take them out.." Needless to say, it's obvious that unles you are under the 60K mileage warranty, you are going to get "stonewalled" by the system. It cost me $1500 to get the timing chain fixed, but was that really worth it to the company to hack-off someone that really likes the marque (I started with a 1970 240z) and now will probably look elsewhere (Infinity G35). I was seriously considering a 370z, but not now. I stand by my Maxima, (also had a Cobalt for a rental..no comment), but geeezzz...their customer service is non-existent....(again..what was I thinking anyway).
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Old 01-26-2010, 05:16 PM
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1 more thought...the Service Rep that I dealt with on my timing chain fix was pretty sympathetic. He was like: "yeah, I would complain to customer service too, cause it's just not right, it is a design flaw, and a non-maintenance item". But untill the government steps in (where are they?????) and forces the OEM to reall it just won't happen. Off the subject..I did just put on new tires (Goodyear Eagle GT's). I really like the aggressive tread, but was a little concerned about the possible road noise. So far, my MAXIMA rides surprsingly smooth. I'll have to see how they wear. I last had BFG G-Force Sports, but they seemed to wear fast and transmitted way more road noise than the Eagle GT's.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:05 AM
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Get yourself a good alignment and you should be ok.

Thats good to hear about your car gettin fixed.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
Well guys thought i'd update this thread. Lately we've been getting in a few more VQs with a sorta small rattle type noise-not really the typical tensioner whine noise this thread is focused on. The rattly type noise sounds like the timing chain is loose, and is hella noticeable on startup for first few mins of runnin at idle then kinda goes away as oil warms.

Here's what we're finding, the primary timing chain's slack guide is breaking off from the top causing the plastic portion of the guide to slide downward and then the tensioner's plunger fully extends out past it's designed travel to try to take up the slack but can't so you end up with excessive slack in the primary chain. This also ruins the tensioner as it has a small wire lock that gets damaged which is to keep the plunger from bleeding down with the engine off.


The green lines show the peice of the slack guide that broke off.
The red arrow shows the direction the plastic slack guide slid downward
The blue line shows how the tensioner is supposed to line up to the slack guide
The purple lines show the damaged/missing anti-bleed down tensioner lock


It looks like I'm victim of this issue -- my car has been making this rattling noise since I got it at around 65K, and it pretty much rattles all the time now. Based on my research when I got it, and taking it to a dealer, I thought the sound was harmless.

Anyway, the other day, the car died on the interstate, and hasn't been able to start up since then. I'm hoping there hasn't been any catastrophic engine failure... The only code I threw was a cam position sensor, which I replaced, and it still wont start. I think the timing chain must be the culprit but I can't tell for sure since the cams are all spinning... so the chain's not broken.

Could the excessive slack cause the chain to jump a tooth and prevent the car from starting?
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:13 AM
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Will we able to find plastic slack guide debris when we cut open an oil filter?
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mdmitch2
It looks like I'm victim of this issue -- my car has been making this rattling noise since I got it at around 65K, and it pretty much rattles all the time now. Based on my research when I got it, and taking it to a dealer, I thought the sound was harmless.

Anyway, the other day, the car died on the interstate, and hasn't been able to start up since then. I'm hoping there hasn't been any catastrophic engine failure... The only code I threw was a cam position sensor, which I replaced, and it still wont start. I think the timing chain must be the culprit but I can't tell for sure since the cams are all spinning... so the chain's not broken.

Could the excessive slack cause the chain to jump a tooth and prevent the car from starting?
Hey guys -- I took the car over to the dealership, and they're quoting me $4400 to replace the timing chain, and said there's over $2000 in parts. When I questioned them on this and brought up the TSB, they're saying that they need to replace a whole host of additional parts due to the miles on the engine... 115K, mentioned 'sprockets' mainly.

But what they're actually recommending is to put a new engine in for $6700. They said the timing chain jumped at least 4 teeth, and there may be damage to valves, but they can't tell without taking it all apart.

This all seems quite ridiculous, especially considering I took it to the dealership when I still had a warranty, and they said not to worry about the noise it was making... and now I'm being recommended a new engine for a problem that's a direct result of a design flaw.


What do you guys think about all this?? btw, I'll have a full parts list of what they're recommeding I replace, as soon as they fax it to me.
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mdmitch2
Hey guys -- I took the car over to the dealership, and they're quoting me $4400 to replace the timing chain, and said there's over $2000 in parts. When I questioned them on this and brought up the TSB, they're saying that they need to replace a whole host of additional parts due to the miles on the engine... 115K, mentioned 'sprockets' mainly.

But what they're actually recommending is to put a new engine in for $6700. They said the timing chain jumped at least 4 teeth, and there may be damage to valves, but they can't tell without taking it all apart.

This all seems quite ridiculous, especially considering I took it to the dealership when I still had a warranty, and they said not to worry about the noise it was making... and now I'm being recommended a new engine for a problem that's a direct result of a design flaw.


What do you guys think about all this?? btw, I'll have a full parts list of what they're recommeding I replace, as soon as they fax it to me.

Here's the additional parts on top of the TSB that they recommend we replace if I don't go with the new engine:

Controller 284B7-7Y02A
Sprocket C 13024-7Y000
Sprocket C 13025-EA21A
Chain Cams 13028-ZS70A
Tensioner 13070-7Y000
Guide - Chain 13085-7Y000
Chain Guide 13091-ZK00A
Gasket Ada 14032-8J10A
Sprocket C 13021-7Y000
water pump 21010-7Y026


The Sprockets are the bulk of the cost, at around $1000, and the "controller" is $250. Not sure what that is.

Would the sprockets really need to be replaced?? And shouldn't they be able to do a compression test to determine if the valves are damaged??

I'm between two mortgages now, and I definitely can't afford a new engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleankill
Will we able to find plastic slack guide debris when we cut open an oil filter?
Not really... i mean anythings possibly but typically it breaks into big peices and is usually at the bottom of the oil pan or inside the timing cover.

Originally Posted by mdmitch2
Hey guys -- I took the car over to the dealership, and they're quoting me $4400 to replace the timing chain, and said there's over $2000 in parts. When I questioned them on this and brought up the TSB, they're saying that they need to replace a whole host of additional parts due to the miles on the engine... 115K, mentioned 'sprockets' mainly.

But what they're actually recommending is to put a new engine in for $6700. They said the timing chain jumped at least 4 teeth, and there may be damage to valves, but they can't tell without taking it all apart.

This all seems quite ridiculous, especially considering I took it to the dealership when I still had a warranty, and they said not to worry about the noise it was making... and now I'm being recommended a new engine for a problem that's a direct result of a design flaw.


What do you guys think about all this?? btw, I'll have a full parts list of what they're recommeding I replace, as soon as they fax it to me.
Originally Posted by mdmitch2
Here's the additional parts on top of the TSB that they recommend we replace if I don't go with the new engine:

Controller 284B7-7Y02A
Sprocket C 13024-7Y000
Sprocket C 13025-EA21A
Chain Cams 13028-ZS70A
Tensioner 13070-7Y000
Guide - Chain 13085-7Y000
Chain Guide 13091-ZK00A
Gasket Ada 14032-8J10A
Sprocket C 13021-7Y000
water pump 21010-7Y026


The Sprockets are the bulk of the cost, at around $1000, and the "controller" is $250. Not sure what that is.

Would the sprockets really need to be replaced?? And shouldn't they be able to do a compression test to determine if the valves are damaged??

I'm between two mortgages now, and I definitely can't afford a new engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.
Not sure what the controller is, i'd have to check. But i understand what the shop is doing, they are trying to cover their *** for worst case scenario. If your timing chains did in fact jump a few teeth then its pretty safe to say you may now have wear on the gears and sprockets and if they simply replace the chains and your valves aren't bent... and the same problem occurs then that shop is now responsible for repairs and they may end up eating all those repairs so that is why they wanna replace EVERYTHING in the timing chain drive and i totally understand that, i'd do the same with an engine with that many miles. There's a mixture of failed parts and regularly worn parts so its tough to say what is good and what isn't.

Once, i forgot to correctly torque the rear bank's vtc sprocket on a Quest and when i fired it up it ran ok for a few secs then made loud rattle and died. Pulled it all back apart and found the vtc sprocket was damaged at the dowel pin, the intake cam was also damaged from the dowel and i had to remove the cylinder head and replace 2 bent exhaust valves that barely kissed the pistons but enough to cause a slight compression loss. I had to eat it all, came outta my bonus check but oh well it was my fault. So whenever the tech has to eat the parts for a screw up like this, we usually get parts at cost plus 10% and i remember for the sprocket it was like $300, the cam was like 100 and headgasket, valves and other gaskets was another 100 so yea, those aren't cheap lol.

You should try to negotiate with the shop and see if they can work out a deal with you because the situation sucks, ask to speak to the mgr and tell em you want a deal. Shops are hurtin for business and im sure they'll be willing to work with you. Plus bring up the fact that you had brought it in before for noise and they just shrugged you off at that time so a little help should be appreciated.

On the other hand... VQ35s are notorious for oil consumption anyway so who's to say yours won't develope that after you spend all these thousands of dollars? Why not look into a used, low mileage engine from a wrecking yard? Around here you can pick one up with a warranty for around 1500. Then have them replace the timing chain stuff with the updates since the engine will already be out and have them replace the engine. Just an option.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
Not really... i mean anythings possibly but typically it breaks into big peices and is usually at the bottom of the oil pan or inside the timing cover.

Not sure what the controller is, i'd have to check. But i understand what the shop is doing, they are trying to cover their *** for worst case scenario. If your timing chains did in fact jump a few teeth then its pretty safe to say you may now have wear on the gears and sprockets and if they simply replace the chains and your valves aren't bent... and the same problem occurs then that shop is now responsible for repairs and they may end up eating all those repairs so that is why they wanna replace EVERYTHING in the timing chain drive and i totally understand that, i'd do the same with an engine with that many miles. There's a mixture of failed parts and regularly worn parts so its tough to say what is good and what isn't.

Once, i forgot to correctly torque the rear bank's vtc sprocket on a Quest and when i fired it up it ran ok for a few secs then made loud rattle and died. Pulled it all back apart and found the vtc sprocket was damaged at the dowel pin, the intake cam was also damaged from the dowel and i had to remove the cylinder head and replace 2 bent exhaust valves that barely kissed the pistons but enough to cause a slight compression loss. I had to eat it all, came outta my bonus check but oh well it was my fault. So whenever the tech has to eat the parts for a screw up like this, we usually get parts at cost plus 10% and i remember for the sprocket it was like $300, the cam was like 100 and headgasket, valves and other gaskets was another 100 so yea, those aren't cheap lol.

You should try to negotiate with the shop and see if they can work out a deal with you because the situation sucks, ask to speak to the mgr and tell em you want a deal. Shops are hurtin for business and im sure they'll be willing to work with you. Plus bring up the fact that you had brought it in before for noise and they just shrugged you off at that time so a little help should be appreciated.

On the other hand... VQ35s are notorious for oil consumption anyway so who's to say yours won't develope that after you spend all these thousands of dollars? Why not look into a used, low mileage engine from a wrecking yard? Around here you can pick one up with a warranty for around 1500. Then have them replace the timing chain stuff with the updates since the engine will already be out and have them replace the engine. Just an option.

Thanks much for the reply. I asked them if they could work out any kind of deal with me... give me a discount on the engine or something, and the best they could do was knock $350 off the engine. I told them that wasn't good enough... so I had it towed back home. I was really surprised they were willing to lose my business so easily. I also contacted Nissan corporate, and spoke with the regional service manager... but apparently I'm not a valued customer, and they wouldn't help in any way.

I've taken good care of the car... always use synthetic oil, premium gas, etc, so I'm hoping to get some more life out of it. Considering I still owe $9000 on it, I better!

Anyway, I'm going to try and do the timing chain swap myself.. I've done timing belts and headgaskets and other semi-major repairs on other cars, so I don't think I'll have too much trouble with it. I'm just worried about the valves being damaged... Is there any way to get an idea of their condition short of taking the whole engine apart? Would it be foolish to hope that they're in okay shape? Or are they more likely damaged??
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:11 AM
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Thats crappy man, have you tried calling around to other dealers? Nissan will not be much help if you don't bring your car into the dealer for routine maintenances, thats how people make their money. You bring it to us, we help you out if you need it someday...

Anyway, the job isn't hard really. You can do the whole thing in the car, you aint gotta pull the motor out. It just makes it easy on us cuz we have a lift and we have air tools so yeah. Just follow the procedures in the factory service manual for removing the front timing cover, its really not hard just remove the alternator and power steering pump outta the way, support the engine and remove the engine mount on the RF strut tower and take it from there. Like 25 little bolts, 4 large bolts and carefully pry the cover apart.

Its hard to say if you have any severe damage since the cam timing is off so that should yeild incorrect compression test results. What i did when that Quest chain spun on me was once i had the new chains installed correctly with the timing cover still off, i did a cylinder leakdown test on each of the rear cylinders and sure enough thats when i found cyl 1 had major leak from the exhaust valves cuz they kissed the piston slightly.

So my best advice is do the chains, its up to you if you wanna do the sprockets or not. Not sure why chains would just jump like that for no reason, im sure the primary chain tensioner slack guide must be broken and if there was enough slack to allow the chain to jump teeth on the sprockets then chances are the sprockets are now worn due to all the slack rubbing on the teeth.

Whatever you decide, once you have everything lined up, do a leakdown test on all your cylinders and make sure theres no more than 10-15% leak max.
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Old 03-06-2010, 04:50 PM
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My 05 altima just had the tensioners and chains replaced a month ago. Also had the B1 cat failing so they replaced that and the egr motor as there was metal stuck in there. NICE!!! Been checking the oil regularly and its never using so I think I got it repaired before anything substantial happened. All done under warranty as I had 53K on the ticker. I would guess about $3500 in parts/labor.
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:25 PM
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Why was there metal stuck in your egr motor? Was it catalyst material? If so...... its only a matter of time before your consuming oil.....
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Old 03-08-2010, 02:48 PM
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Whiney Max

The dealer just told my wife that she needs $1400 worth of work to fix the whine coming from the passenger side of the engine. TSB NTB07-042. This whine showed up just after I replaced the accesory drive belts with Goodyear Gatorback belts (with the cuts across the ribs). Anyone have any experience with these? Could it just be the belts whining?
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:17 AM
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What engine, what year? Is it the 92 judging from your username?

Why not pull the belts off and start engine to see if noise is still there?
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
What engine, what year? Is it the 92 judging from your username?

Why not pull the belts off and start engine to see if noise is still there?
Sorry, This is the new 2005 maxima SE. I think I'll change the belts this weekend to standard ones. It's just such a PITA to change them.
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
Why was there metal stuck in your egr motor? Was it catalyst material? If so...... its only a matter of time before your consuming oil.....

Hey turbizzy, I pmed you with a question about my failed cat converter and was wondering if you had a chance to look at it thanks.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jay3250
Hey turbizzy, I pmed you with a question about my failed cat converter and was wondering if you had a chance to look at it thanks.
Yezzir

Originally Posted by 92 Max
Sorry, This is the new 2005 maxima SE. I think I'll change the belts this weekend to standard ones. It's just such a PITA to change them.
They are if ya don't have a lift i guess... Not sure what your whine is, but i have seen the alternator belt's tensioner bracket break and cause rattling and/or other issues. If you have the belts too tight then that also can lead to a whine type sound that can sometimes lead to early bearing failures in the alternator, power steering pump, compressor and even crankshaft. I like those belts with the ribs cut, they seem to last a lot longer.
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:28 AM
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Add me to the list. Every time I took it to the dealer and had it serviced they said they couldn't hear anything. Ive just gotten used to it, but i want it gone.
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:09 AM
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Here is a video clip of my 2007 Maxima with 107k miles

Ignore the actual footage, just listen to the sounds. What do you think it is?

I just bought the car and the noise started last night. It is sporadic and once I shut the car off and turn it back on the sound goes away. I just changed the oil and replaced the main drive belt. Let's see if it comes back.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO3IuzacB88
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:36 PM
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I have a different kind of whine noise. It reminds me of an old school printer sound but it lasts only like half a second, like the printer running across the page and coming back. It happens every time I rev. If I rev twice in a row it will do it quickly twice in a row. It doesn't get louder or softer depending on rpms, it stays consistently the same (which isn't very loud). I checked my belts and they seem to be in good condition and tight. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:41 PM
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Oh, its an 04 SL 5at. 68K. Turbizzy, if I pm'd you my vin, would you be able to look up my warranty? I got the car from my father when I graduated college and he got the extended warranty, but I don't know the specifics of it and neither does he. Or is that something I could look up myself???
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:54 PM
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i have the same whistling sound on my 06 maxima took it to the dealer and they change out the tension that took care of that but the sound came back after 6 month I'm not sure is a bad tension or they did a bad job on it.
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:55 AM
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Good thing I found this thread, I got 5K left on my extended warranty and I have just started to get the tensioner whine, probably would have let it go till it was too late...
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by KY3POINT5
Here is a video clip of my 2007 Maxima with 107k miles

Ignore the actual footage, just listen to the sounds. What do you think it is?

I just bought the car and the noise started last night. It is sporadic and once I shut the car off and turn it back on the sound goes away. I just changed the oil and replaced the main drive belt. Let's see if it comes back.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO3IuzacB88
New to this board. However I had to post since that's the exact same sound my 2004 Maxima is making. Trying to get an assessment of how serious the problem is. Just to bring things back home, is THAT the tensioner whine?
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by KY3POINT5
Here is a video clip of my 2007 Maxima with 107k miles

Ignore the actual footage, just listen to the sounds. What do you think it is?

I just bought the car and the noise started last night. It is sporadic and once I shut the car off and turn it back on the sound goes away. I just changed the oil and replaced the main drive belt. Let's see if it comes back.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO3IuzacB88
Wow thats nasty. I can't say i've ever heard that sound before and it definately doesn't sound like the typical secondary timing chain tensioner issues i've seen however yours sounds really bad and im wondering if maybe your tensioner is so worn down (if it is the tensioners) that now its making that sound. I would start by removing the alternator belt first and see if its still making the sound. If so, remove the power steering belt and try again. If the noises go away then it might be a bearing on one of your accessories but if the sound is still there then it may very well be timing chain related.


Originally Posted by bmckendr
Oh, its an 04 SL 5at. 68K. Turbizzy, if I pm'd you my vin, would you be able to look up my warranty? I got the car from my father when I graduated college and he got the extended warranty, but I don't know the specifics of it and neither does he. Or is that something I could look up myself???
Yeah i can look that up for you. I can't list every single thing thats covered but if you have a question on a particular item then i can find it but there's just too long of a list.

Originally Posted by eq06maxima
i have the same whistling sound on my 06 maxima took it to the dealer and they change out the tension that took care of that but the sound came back after 6 month I'm not sure is a bad tension or they did a bad job on it.
Well i'd have to hear it and i'd have to know what exactly they replaced. Timing chain tensioner or drive belt tensioner?

Originally Posted by Undefinition
New to this board. However I had to post since that's the exact same sound my 2004 Maxima is making. Trying to get an assessment of how serious the problem is. Just to bring things back home, is THAT the tensioner whine?
As i stated above, that last video's sound is really bad and i can't say i've heard that particular sound yet. The timing chain whine that is the most common when these go bad sounds like timing chain gear drive on an old muscle car with a V8 if your familiar with that. Or like a roots type supercharger on an old hot rod, like a higher pitched sound that is most noticeable at idle to 2000 rpm but not too high pitched.

Ill see if i can get a video next time i get one.
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:19 AM
  #228  
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This is from the first page of this thread.

Here's the sound of the timing chain whine sound, try to ignore his loud intake whoosh sound but you can hear the whine pretty clear in this vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo9vVgUfpxs

And this video, don't mind the other weird sound i think thats something else he's got issues with but listen from 0:21 to 0:25 and youll hear that noticeable whine sound. Thats exactly it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHYUiz-kA2E

Here's another one from a VQ40 Frontier, same exact parts that are failing. Don't mind the airish hissing sound, thats the typical air rushing through the plastic intake sound. Focus on the loud metallic higher pitch obvious sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoZV9...eature=related

Last edited by turbizzy; 03-25-2010 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:18 AM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
Here's a pic of a Murano Bank 1 converter i did, same as the Maxima only the Maxima/Altima/Quest's converter is flatter rather than round like this one but the heat sheild is the same.

Here's the 3 spot welds on the heat sheild and you can see the bottom weld broken off and my finder wedged underneath the sheild.



Here you can see the little tiny hole on the bottom where the broken spot weld broke off and left that hole behind. This hole is so close to the rear o2 sensor that it will sometimes set a check engine light for lean condition or bad cat and you can sometimes hear an exhaust leak.



This cat started breaking up just as the guy with the Murano in the previous post stated happened to his, you can see all the catalyst material that fell out of the header pipe and was causing a restriction.



Catalyst material.




Replacing the cat would cost near 1,000 retail but if you can find a muffler shop to just fix the weld or reweld the sheild back on then your lookin at maybe less than 100 bucks. But you better make sure the cat hasn't already started breaking apart due to excessive oxygen entering through the hole and overloading the converter.



The timing chain issue is only with the 6th Gen Maxima 04-06, Quest 04-06, Altima V6 04-06 and all the VQ4.0L trucks 04-06.
I have a 06 with 44k miles. I am going to check to see if I have the timing chain issue noise. In your opinion would this be enough reason to sell the car? Also when they put the new tensioners in are they different or will the same problem occur eventually?

So what did they do different on the G35s, etc so they don't have the same problems as the vehicles described earlier? Also does this impact the 07-08 maxs?

Last edited by dpeles1; 03-26-2010 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:43 AM
  #230  
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Bump. Anyone?
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:23 PM
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So I called my local stealership and of course they say there isn't a service bulletin for the tensioners. So I am going to print the bulletin and take it in. I am still under power train warranty. I will update after I make the visit. Thanks for all the info.
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:37 PM
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2000 MAXIMA SE

This is by far the most informative thread I ever read. Thanks for all the info.I have a 2K Max with 135k miles and recently had the lower engine seals done. I noticed some whining noise coming from the passenger side of the car too. Would you happen to know if this issue with the timing chain is also common for the 3.0?
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:36 PM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by dpeles1
I have a 06 with 44k miles. I am going to check to see if I have the timing chain issue noise. In your opinion would this be enough reason to sell the car? Also when they put the new tensioners in are they different or will the same problem occur eventually?

So what did they do different on the G35s, etc so they don't have the same problems as the vehicles described earlier? Also does this impact the 07-08 maxs?
The issue is the secondary timing chains aka as the cam chains. They were designed with too much of a "saw tooth" shape and tend to eat away at the plastic tensioners for unkown reasons. I've seen some with as low miles as 40k to the average 55-120k miles. The replacement parts are updated design and the chains are a softer tooth design and the tensioners appear more beefy.

Seems to only affect the Altima/Maxima/Quest VQ35s and Truck VQ40s from 04-06ish. Havent seen any on Muranos or 350Zs with these issues.
Originally Posted by dpeles1
So I called my local stealership and of course they say there isn't a service bulletin for the tensioners. So I am going to print the bulletin and take it in. I am still under power train warranty. I will update after I make the visit. Thanks for all the info.
I don't think this is reason enough to sell it. I have a really good feeling Nissan might end up warrantying this so i say just keep your oil changed and try to ride it out if your warranty is up. Or another way of looking at it is, before timing chains there were belts and those were also 1500-1800 to replace with the water pump, seals, etc so its almost the same lol.

Originally Posted by mantaz
This is by far the most informative thread I ever read. Thanks for all the info.I have a 2K Max with 135k miles and recently had the lower engine seals done. I noticed some whining noise coming from the passenger side of the car too. Would you happen to know if this issue with the timing chain is also common for the 3.0?
No, not common on VQ30s especially those years. Your whining could be the belts too tight, accessory bearings going bad, water pump bearing or alternator going bad. I'd try removing each drive belt one at a time and firing up the engine to see if the noise goes away and if it does then you can narrow it down.
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:33 AM
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Glad to hear that! Will do. Another quick question: I had the SES light come on this past weekend. The dealer told me I need to change the coil for cyl 1. I was running late this morning and had to gun it a few times. I noticed today that I hear some tapping when the engine is under load. The only way I can explain it is that it sounds like my dads former Plymouth from the 80s.
Thanks again
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Old 03-31-2010, 05:41 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
Wow thats nasty. I can't say i've ever heard that sound before and it definately doesn't sound like the typical secondary timing chain tensioner issues i've seen however yours sounds really bad and im wondering if maybe your tensioner is so worn down (if it is the tensioners) that now its making that sound. I would start by removing the alternator belt first and see if its still making the sound. If so, remove the power steering belt and try again. If the noises go away then it might be a bearing on one of your accessories but if the sound is still there then it may very well be timing chain related.



After this video was taken, I replaced the alternator belt and changed the oil to Mobil1 high mileage. No more noise...
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:23 PM
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I HAD that problem ................past tense.............i had bad alternator diodes and sticky bearings in it which caused whining get her a lil wet and i bet it goes away
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:10 AM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by turbizzy
The issue is the secondary timing chains aka as the cam chains. They were designed with too much of a "saw tooth" shape and tend to eat away at the plastic tensioners for unkown reasons. I've seen some with as low miles as 40k to the average 55-120k miles. The replacement parts are updated design and the chains are a softer tooth design and the tensioners appear more beefy.

Seems to only affect the Altima/Maxima/Quest VQ35s and Truck VQ40s from 04-06ish. Havent seen any on Muranos or 350Zs with these issues.


I don't think this is reason enough to sell it. I have a really good feeling Nissan might end up warrantying this so i say just keep your oil changed and try to ride it out if your warranty is up. Or another way of looking at it is, before timing chains there were belts and those were also 1500-1800 to replace with the water pump, seals, etc so its almost the same lol.



No, not common on VQ30s especially those years. Your whining could be the belts too tight, accessory bearings going bad, water pump bearing or alternator going bad. I'd try removing each drive belt one at a time and firing up the engine to see if the noise goes away and if it does then you can narrow it down.

Thanks for the advice. It is currently at the stealership right now. I printed the related service bulletin and took it in when I dropped the car off. Those of you that are interested the service bulletin number is NTB07-042a. Funny it took Nissan until 2008 to fix the problem. All I have ever driven is Nissan's and I would like to keep it that way. I always knew there was something funny sounding about my Maxima because it sounded totally different from my 06 Altima. I just want to thank everyone on this site because without you guys this could have cost me $2500 or worse a new engine.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:28 AM
  #238  
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Chalk me up for needing the tensioners replaced as well. I just noticed mine making the horrible racket as well. I've only noticed it over the last couple weeks, but it sounds absolutely horrible! It sounds like a GM fuel pump.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 04vqmaxsl
Chalk me up for needing the tensioners replaced as well. I just noticed mine making the horrible racket as well. I've only noticed it over the last couple weeks, but it sounds absolutely horrible! It sounds like a GM fuel pump.
Sorry to hear that. I take it you are out of warranty?
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dpeles1
Sorry to hear that. I take it you are out of warranty?
Yup, out of warranty.
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