P0011 - Replaced sensor, light came back, what's next!?
 

So I've had the SES light on for a couple of months now. Autozone pulled P0011 and a pending P0021. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the codes and the light stayed off for a couple of days but eventually came back. This past weekend I finally decided I would replace the Camshaft Position Sensor... the light stayed off for the rest of the afternoon and came on again later that night, pulling P0011 yet again. Any idea what I should try next? I really don't want to hand over $100 to the dealer over and over until they figure out the problem. I already paid them $85 for the silly sensor and apparently that wasn't even the problem. :rolleyes:

Take it to a reputable garage or dealer to perform an engine diag. or you'll be spending a lot of $$$$$$ on trial and error.. p0011 is a intake valve timing control solenoid valve. or it can also be a bad ECM

For $60 you can get a good scanner that will tell you exactly what has to be replaced. Didn't autozone tell you what those codes meant?

Yes, they printed out receipts with the descriptions on them and I also came home and looked them up online. I have print-outs from the internet of symptoms and possible solutions but I've seen this code brought up several times in the past couple of years on this forum and never a real solution...

I used to work for a Nissan dealer as a technician and those 3.5 engines are very sensitive to lack of maintenance. Usually what causes that valve timing control solenoid code is because of oil changes not being performed on a regular bases and the oil will staret to sludge inside the solenoid and cause it not to perform properly. You will more than likely need to replace the solenoid/s to correct your problem. Also it may be a good idea to try and find some sort of engine cleaner additive to put in with the oil and run it for the recommended period of time then perform an oil change and replace the solenoids at that time.

This is a first sign of your engine sludging up. I remember opening up a friends Maxima to replace the Camshaft position sensor and saw sludge form on it. Here is something I would do. Take one quart of tranny fluid, put it in the engine, turn it on and let it run. Do not drive it. Leave the car running for about 15 mins, and do an oil change with an oil that is low on wax content. i recommend going synthetic. Reset the light and see what happens next!

Scan tools don't tell you "replace this part" they give you a DTC which gives you a basis to work on. Just because a car throws a code saying "O2 sensor low voltage" doesn't mean it is always the sensor.

Thanks for the suggestions guys...

I have had the vehicle regularly maintained at my local Nissan dealer. I make sure they use Mobile 1 5W-30 each time and it's only been about 4,000 since my last service so I was planning on having it changed in April anyway...

One of the techs at the dealer told me that when they throw that code, they just go ahead and replace both camshaft sensors. I already replaced the one and was thinking of doing the other, but if it's just a matter of dirty engine oil, I may as well just throw some cleaner in and change the oil - correct?

Cam sensors work off the same circuit so one can drag the other down but the ECM does not show a fault with the one that is actually bad. We always replace both cam sensors.

Would you suggest running the cleaner and changing the oil before replacing the other sensor?

I would just because of the type of sensor it is. It is magnet type sensor and it may attract any type of metal particals to it and possibly causing another MIL light to come on. I know it has been awhile since I was working for Nissan as a tech but I remember replacing timing solenoids for the codes and description you mentioned. Have you had another MIL light on since you replaced your 1 cam sensor?

I just had my oil changed yesterday and the SES light remains on even after replacing the CAM 1 sensor. Wondering what to try next...? The bank 1 IVT Solenoid looks like it's going to suck to get to.

Had Nissan diagnose the code for $100. The solenoid is bad, they're asking $510... needless to say, I'm going to do it myself although the part is just over $200 from the dealer =\

Guess I blew $85 on the cam sensor for no good reason :(

Just as an update. The SES light has reappeared after each visit to the dealer. So far they have replaced the IVT Solenoid, Camshaft Position Sensor (2x) and completed an engine-oil flush. I have paid nearly $550 and the light remains on. They had an "area rep" engineer come take a look at it and he discovered after checking oil pressure and what not that the gasket on the timing chain cover is leaking and causing the sensors to read incorrectly. Cost of repair: $1600. I will be contacting consumer affairs very soon to seek assistance :mad: hopefully this time around, they won't shoot me down like they did when my tranny dumped at 61,000 miles.

I have an 07 maxima. I have the same p0011 and p0021. I bought both timing control solenoids changed them and the 2 codes came back within 2 days. Do you think I should change both the camshaft postion sensors?

Search yields the following:


P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)


A 2006 post for P0011 (http://forums.maxima.org/4148817-post2.html):

according to my scantool library that code is for intake camshaft position timing over advanced bank 1. alldata says this code doesn't apply to nissans, however it is a 'generic' code which means all manufacturers can use it.

from alldata......

The camshaft position sensor (PHASE) is located on the engine front cover facing the camshaft sprocket. It detects the cylinder No. signal.

The sensor consists of a permanent magnet, core and coil. When engine is running, the gap between the sensor and the camshaft sprocket will periodically change. Permeability near the sensor also changes.

Due to the permeability change, the magnetic flux near the core is changed. Therefore, the voltage signal generated in the coil is changed.

The ECM receives the voltage signal and detects the cylinder No. signal.


basically;
the crankshaft sensor detects rpms and when a cylinder is 2 tdc. the camshaft detects which cylinder to fire and send fuel too.

i've never seen the code before and I'm not sure what parameters the ecu uses to decide when the sensor is 'over advanced', but i'm guessing that it compares the crankshaft sensor to the camshaft sensor and if it detects say cylinder #1 is advanced more than it really is then it sets a code.

how is your engine running? Does it feel like the chain skipped a tooth and is missing real bad?

First thing I would do is check the sensor to make sure its not loose. It may have come loose and the magnet turned a few degrees which is fooling the ecu to thinking the cam is in a different location than it actually is.

I would put a scope on the crank and cam sensors and see when each goes off. If the engine's running really rough at idle in drive I would bet the belt skipped a tooth. If it's not running that rough I would bet that the sensor turned a degree or two. But like I said I've never seen this code before so I may be way off. Also I would caution you. I'm not sure if the 3.5 is an interference motor or not, but if it is and the cam skips to far off of the set position the valves could hit against the pistons resulting in needing rebuilt heads, so proceed with caution. Also how many miles on the car


According to FSM, the DTC detecting condition:
• There is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree.

Possible cause(s)
• Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
• Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
• Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
• Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
• Timing chain installation
• Foreign matter caught in the oil groove for intake valve timing control

FSM shows diagnostic procedures as follow:
• Check Oil Pressure
• Intake Vavle Timing Control Solenoid Valve
• Crankshaft Position Sensor
• Component Diagnosis (i.e. Accumulation of debris on the signal plate of camshaft rear end and Chipping signal plate of camshaft rear end)
• If prior service includes recent repairs that may cause timing chain misalignment. (There is a TSB for the Timing chain installation)

car has 62k on it, it has been like this since 32k. Dealer diagnosed it as bad solenoids, which I changed. They refused warranty because I didn't have maintance records. It runs and drives fine, she complains it looses power at heavy throttle sometimes. No sputtering or misfiring. I will check the vcam sensors

After getting my timing chain changed, I had this code along with a weird sound coming from the side of the engine, The sound is like rubber rubbing against plastic.

What do you think the problem is? help me please.

Did you change your tensioners when you did the timing chain replacement?
The sound you hear, is it a whine which increases with acceleration??

i am going through this same issue right this second... today i pulled both solenoids and found them to look perfectly clean the screens looked good no sludge or anything of that matter. after that i took my jump box and ran a jumper wire to get 12 volts to the solenoids and they were opening and closing just fine... i dont know what to do. also i am pulling a p0430 cat code could this problem go hand in hand? clogged cat be causing a p0011 and p0021 code? i dont think but just a thought

Hey Mustang,

You got it the other way round.
The 0011 if left unfixed for a while will cause an 0430 and soon you'll get an 0420 and several o2 sensor codes will come and go.

I've had the exact same experience.
Check your timing chain if you are sure your engine is sludge free

My check engine light is on with the P0011 code but I get oil change every 3500 miles. Which additives do you recommend? Is timing chain maintenance expensive?

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I recently took my max into the dealer to have the necessary repairs done to rid myself of that pesky SES light.

Before anybody gets after me for taking it to the dealer... if you remember, I originally took it there for the sensor and the IVT solenoid, so they applied the cost of the previous service towards this one, which was a hefty 14 hours of labor. Inside the timing cover, there was a gasket that had become leaky due to disintegration. While they were in there, I made sure that they checked out my water pump and replaced the guides and tensioners (the tech noted that my tensioners were just fine at 90k).

So if any of you have tried replacing the sensors and IVT solenoids, and the SES light keeps coming on, it may be due to a small leak in the gasket, which caused me no performance issues over the past year while I commuted back and forth to work to save for the eventual ~$1500 repair.

Make sure it's not just a $3 fuse!
 

I have been "riding dirty" in my 2008 Nissan Maxima for 2 years because my check engine light has been on and the codes that were returning were O2 sensor codes. I spent $100's buying O2 sensors, replacing this one and that one, light never went out, so I couldnt pass the emissions test with those codes in order to get my state inspection sticker. How about, I bring it to the dealership last week, and this is after I bought an extended warranty after they confirmed my O2 sensors needed to be replaced, to make a long story short, when I return to get them replaced under the warranty, the problem was that $4 worth of fuses were bad/missing in my car. They replaced them (i had to pay the $60 labor fee, UGH), and the light went out and I passed my state inspection. I'm a bit disgusted.

Which Fuses????
 

Which Fuses are you refering to? Inside the car or under the Hood area and where are they located?

Which fuse was this???

Yes. I recently had an issue with a rear timing cover and what I think is an issue related to the one you have. It has had the cam sensor replaced, timing chain, guide rails, gasket, and tensioner. Check engine light comes back on. I was told to replace the timing cover to fix the issue. The car was at around 65k when these problems started occurring. They said they would cover the part, but not labor. They, then agreed to pay more, but I am still dissatisfied in my first experience with a Nissan.

Car
 

only if you got your parts from a dealership only get your parts from a dealership trust me

2004 3.5 SE Maxima issues
 

I am getting the P0011, P0300, P1726, & C1111 codes for my car. I had the converters replaced but It was sitting for quite some time as I couldn’t get a good diagnosis of the problem, then I had to come up with the money to fix it. I had the front valve cover body and gasket and spark plugs changed as well 2 weeks ago Bc it had a major oil leak. ( this past April had the back valve cover and plugs replaced) It ran fine for a day then started missing and throwing all those previously mentioned codes. Not having a lot of money for trial and error I was wondering if you had any suggestions on where to start. I was told that using an additive lime seafoam for the oil could break down all the seals inside the engine and then I will be replacing lots of parts that I don’t have the money to replace.