jdbu21

New to site and I need help. What fuse controls center console charger? No power to this outlet. Thanks for help!

02specvq

just look in the fuze box and it should say...
and if it dont, just pull them until you find the blown one

BAMaxima

Afternoon fellow Maxima owners...

After spending the last three days scouring over these boards and posts, I will admit to being quite confused and overwhelmed!!! A little background information: I purchased a 2004 Maxima 6-speed MT and I adored that car! Due to some physical health issues, I had to get away from the manual transmission and I ended up selling it and temporarily driving an SUV. I finally found another Maxima I liked and this weekend became the proud owner of a 2006 Maxima SE 5AT - which I have learned has the transmission of DOOM. The dealer swore he thought it had a "minor" issue and that it probably just needed a good service and (like and idiot - because he was a friend I bought my last 3 vehicles from) I trusted him and bought it anyway with an extended warranty.

Here is where I am now:
I have the "secondary timing chain tensioner whine" so I'm going to need to get that replaced.

I have the SLAM shift while coasting to stops between 3-2/2-1 occasionally. MOSTLY this happens after I've been driving 30+ minutes.

I have had a few instances of slipping upon acceleration from a stop (the car goes to 4000rpm without any "pull" and then hard shifts into gear and goes again).

I do NOT (yet) have the hard shift when shifting from P-R, R-D or any other combinations of shifting. They all happen very smoothly, so I'm PRAYING that this means things haven't gotten TOO out of control yet.

I have found the Transgo shift kit (semi-)locally for $79.97+tax. HOWEVER, every shop I have called locally says "Well, I'd be willing to look at putting it in, but I've never put one in a Maxima, mostly we just get a new valve body from Nissan for $1100." One shop went so far as to say he needed to call Transtar (where I called for the kit) and see what it entailed to give me a price, when he called back with a price of $350 to install (plus fluid) he told me that the Transtar rep advised him that he would say the MAJORITY of people who buy it say it doesn't fix the issues it states on the box.

WOW that was long. Sorry. On to my question (finally.)

I am discouraged, disappointed and afraid I'll never stop having problems - but at this point I can't do anything about it but try and find the most economical steps to take.

My thinking is this:
1. Try a drain/fill (3 times like I've read here, with 15 minutes of driving between each one making sure to cycle through all gears)... if that doesn't help:

2. Have the Transgo Shift Kit installed ($80 for the part, $350 for the install)

3. Replace the Valve Body and/or whatever else it might be if the first two don't work.


Is this a logical order to do things or should I do something differently? Also - Is the AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid >/= the Nissan ATF that is recommended by the dealer? If I'm going to do drain/fill procedure I'd certainly like to use a less expensive ATF for the first couple of rounds and use the best on the final fill - but I don't want to do anything that will give me less than the best result.


I apologize if none of this makes any sense - like I said this is my first attempt at a post here, and I'm not very car-savvy but I'm willing and eager to learn and absorb any information that you all can give me.

Thank you for any replies!

~Beth

nelsewehy

Hello everyone, I have a the 04 maxima SL. I love this car but the other day i was driving to a friends house and all of a sudden as soon as i hit 40mph i seem to be losing power and rps are just reving higher and higher. Now im not a car expert but im guessing it goes in first and second gear but not shifting into 3rd or above. Im a student so im broke and need to fix this car because its my only way of getting around i live in MN and it is freezing here with horrible transportation. I hope i can get advise and find out if the whole tranny needs to be replaced or if i have other CHEAPER options.

jdigeorgio

Here's an update to the power seat, lock and window problem I posted earlier. Shortly after posting here (Jan 13), my wife asked to use the car. Since she is much smaller than me and needed to adjust the seat (which wasn't working), I thought about disconnecting the battery momentarily to see if it would reset and perhaps work long enough to move the seat. Granted the dealer had disconnected the battery several times in their diagnosis and repair procedures but it never "stuck" in terms of fixing the issue.

Anyway - it worked. I was able to move the seat after reconnecting the battery. Locks and windows also worked. However, the moment I sat in the driver seat and started the car - everything was broken again! This is similar to what I saw at the dealership - they would "fix" it - it was working when I picked it up - but later after I started it and drove off - everything was not working again.

So I repeated the battery disconnect/reconnect - this time I adjusted the seat fully up and forward to where it fit my wife. She got in it and made some minor adjustments to the seat and then took off shopping. Funny thing - the locks/windows/seat worked all day for her. Then the next day and the next day, etc. It's still working more than a week later.

Based on this - the only thing I can think of is that there may be a short in the wiring or harness under the driver seat and moving it so far up and forward somehow got the wires positioned so the short went away. Or an alternate but similar theory - I am much heavier than her and therefore would push down the seat cushion more. Perhaps due to the seat cushion compressing under weight, a short is occuring? And since the seat, locks and windows are on the same circuit - the seat shorting out could cause the other items to malfunction as well? Thoughts?

po8pimp

Might be your camshaft position sensor. Have both sensors looked at.

po8pimp

I think you have the right approach, however if it was me and owning a 5speed, and knowing what I know now, I would go straight to step 2. If you choose to do that, I recommend you go on a test drive with the person doing the work, so they can write down how the trans acts prior to the repair. Then make sure they do it right and everything is shifting proper afterward. Also make sure you let them know that some people have noticed springs in the valve body being stuck, and to check them while they are in there. If you look at my thread: http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...ssion-fix.html , you will see the items listed on what is needed to be purchased prior to. $350 for install is just a quote on the work, not on the materials used. There will be extra charges. If you bring your own fluid, you could save a significant amount of money. Good luck and post your experience and results in the thread I provided.

cbeezy655

Needs reset read manual, believe close it and push and hold down switch for two seconds to reset

badfish74

My wifes 04 maxima has had a rear wheel growl for a few months. Today I tried to take it apart to see if I could get to the wheel bearings. No luck. Caliper and caliper holder removed. I do not see how the rotor comes off. Anyone care to chime in on how this comes apart?

Jay66

Hello

Problem #1
I have a 2005 maxima SE and my *Auto* air button is STUCK almost hard as a rock.... It definitely did NOT get sticky from pop or anything like that either, someone pressed the button and it go stuck... Does anyboy know of a quick fix? or if i will have to replace it?

Problem #2
My battery is weak and i have a system in my car with a kinetic battery. I went to get my car from the body shop and the gas gauge went over a full tank and dropped on the other side of the needle stopper somehow? I know about the quick fix with the magnets to bring the needle back to where it belong but i want to know if its going to continue to happen? or if there is actually something i have to replace to fix it?

Thanks in advance!

aviator08

Hello guys, recently bought a 05 maxima and want to put in a new radio but cannot find any pics of videos with after market HU or double din. Owned nothing but chevys up to this week so have no clue. I keep finding videos of how to remove the hole thing but thats it. Any help would be appreciated.

This is all I find, but looking for a kit to put a dnx 9980 installed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJY2J2vVsak

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

There was a recall on this, they had replaced the wire harness b/c of it getting pinched. Maybe the previous owner never had it done. I did and I've never had a problem.

Jay66

They have double din dash kits on eBay. The color is not perfectly matched with oem SE dash kit so the after market kit will be darker silver/grey color.. U can paint or leave it I left it n it looks fine!

jdigeorgio

Well - thanks for the info. I have an 07 model year however. Looks like you have an 06 model perhaps? Anyway, the recall seems to only go up to 2006 and has something to do with the power lumbar control on the power seat. My car only has a manual lumbar control. I guess it's worth a shot exploring it with the dealer ... but I know they are going to counter that the problem didn't exist in 07 models and later ...

VQLover

Hey guys, I have an 05 SE and started to notice that sometimes when I accelerate I hear a whisting type of noise. Almost like a supercharger but not really :P. Does anyone know what it could be? It just happened recently and also when I downshift I sometimes hear the noise.. I have 171,000KM on it currently.

Galoong

I'm not sure if its the same but on my 04 SL Elite, when the car is cruising around 1500 to 2k RPM my car has a whistling noise too. I bought the car used back in 2010 from a Nissan dealer and took it back to the dealer multiple times and they were never able to tell me what's causing that. I also took it to 2 other mechanics, one of which is a family friend, and they also could not figure out what it is. It's very annoying.

Galoong

This may be a stupid question but, it is possible to replace the filter box with an aftermarket cone filter connected to the OEM intake part? Is there any down falls to doing this? Does it make any difference in performance wise?

02specvq

you can buy some cheap intake pipes at most auto part stores and piece a kit together pretty cheap

Galoong

Yup, I was trying to see if it is feasible to use the original intake parts with an aftermarket cone filter. DO you know if this will cause a decrease in power or mess up the MAF sensor? Thanx

02specvq

i dont think ive seen it done before, not saying that it hasnt been....just that i havent seen it.
I dont see why it would hurt anything

Galoong

Sorry for the dirty engine bay. (I need to figure out how to clean it without messing up stuff)

I bought a 3" adapter for the MAF, an elbow (forgot how many degrees) and a Spectre filter. Hooked it up to the OEM intake pipe. I seem to like it. It's not as loud as the Fujita or Injen, but it's what I wanted since I have a 3 yr old who takes naps in the car when we go somewhere. Now, does it improve performance, I'm not sure. Feels like it picks up a little faster, but it could just be me. In the end, I enjoy it.

On the other hand, does anyone have an issue with the car vibrating when braking at 40+ miles? I've had the brakes checked, alignment done, pretty new tires, tires air checked, and pretty new KYB Gr2 shocks. Someone told me it may be the splash guards, but I don't see how that can cause car and steering wheel to vibrate/shake.

02specvq

nice....
the vibrating could be our rotors if brakes and tires are good

Blk xj

Hey guys, just picked up my new 6 generation 2007 se 3.5 black on black fully loaded...pics up asap. Im new to the nissan world, but stoked with my neew toy..not sure where i wanna go with it as far as performance and appearance, but this site is getting me going. Where should i start with some DIY's ...leds,debadge and for starters plasti dip the wheels..? Any suggestions would be great ....thank you in advance and hope to keep busy on this forum !!!

Galoong

I will look in to that.

Thanks.

05blkmax

First you need to remove the center console where the shifter is located. Below is a good link that shows you how this is done.
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...ml#post6886926

Once that is done you need to put a multimeter on the plug that was connected to the power connector/ cigarette lighter outlet. You should get around 12V. If you do then the outlet is burnt out (element). If you don't then you need to start tracing the source power back to the fuse block. I hope this helps.

05blkmax

You can find this bezel all day long on Ebay. Below is a link to one that has pigtails included.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRA-95-740...24950100514133

BRUISER

I have a '04 Max. Did you try closing the sunroof all the way first? If the sunroof is open to "vent" or just tilted, and you try to open it w/ the slide control, it does what you described...only opens a fraction at a time. So...close it all the way, then try the slide switch to open it. My teenage son had to show me this one.

SoCalSpecialist

just got my 05 SL on 1/30 it has about 84,500 miles on it...

now my question is..when i accelerate anywhere between 1-3000 rpms i hear a metal clangy, jingly, rattle sound..any inclination as to what it might be?

thanks in advance!

02specvq

Just to kinda narrow it down a little bit, where does is sound like its coming from?

abuameen

i have this sound now on my car i think its coming from under the car and its transmition issues i hope not for ur car tho

abuameen

ok here is my question again
imy 2007 maxima se rpms are too high engine sound strugling sounds of clikin comes from under the car while ecelarating
toke it to dealer and they said replace TCM (transmition countole module) i wint to NTB to replace it for cheaper but did not fix the problem and brought it back to them they said car need new transmition what is up with that?? i went back to my dealer and asked me to come back moonday cuz of the holiday and i have apower train warranty from my dealer but u think they wpuld say anything? dont now if its trany for sure or not looks like it any thoughts????

maxii08

I recently purchased a 2008 maxima and took it on a road trip to NC, I noticed that once I hit 70+ MPH the car would jolt, almost like I suddenly pushed the gas. I also noticed that when it did that, the RPMs would jump up. It was very sporadic and I figured maybe it was because the cruise control was on. Once the cruise control was turned off, it still had the same issue.....any thoughts???

Silentdon5

I have recently purchased a 2005 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE and there are a few problems that have come up.

1st is that when i start the car and put it into reverse it take 3 to 5 seconds to got into reverse and drive takes about 2 to 3 seconds.

2nd is that when i drive at a set speed the peddle or the car i should say the car has a minor vibration and doesnt seem normal. If i slow down its fine and if i speed up its fine.

These are the only two majors issue with the car and if somebody has had similar problems please help me out.

Thank You.

SoCalSpecialist

boy am i late on the response with this one. i was reading around on throughout the forum and it seems as if it can have a direct correlation to the "exhaust bracket" as per here

whats your opinion? the sound is coming from the front of the vehicle and as the rattling is there when either leaving from a complete stop or between the 2-3500 rpm stage.

FantaLady23

I have a clucking noise in the rear end of my 2005 Max SL when I drive over speed bumps or hit a pothole. My mechanic says it is the 2 rear lower control bars
(??Link ComplRear Suspension, Lower, Rear??) that need to be replaced. The side with the rubber (one arm) is why I am getting that noise, he says.
He says all other suspension parts look good - struts, shocks, etc.
Does the diagnosis seem to be on the correct path?

The noise doesn't happen all the time. If you bounce the rear of the car yourself it doesn't make any noises. He looked in my trunk for any loose parts, like the spare and jack, etc. Nothing loose.

He quoted me $95 for each arm and $200 labor.

I'm also starting to have the same noise on my driver's side front and he says it is the same problem-the control arm. He says I don't need to get them replaced ASAP, but he is going to get a price for the front control arms for me next week some time. I should get both replaced at the same time, he advised.

I am on a tight budget and saw where he orders his parts from and I did some research and saw that the rear lower control arms are priced at around $47.57, plus tax and shipping(online and when I called the parts dept.). Should I confront him about it?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

FantaLady23
likely endlinks for the anti-sway bar. get Moog ones for around $60. an hour labor at most.

Milky

Hi there, So I am new to this forum and to owning a Nissan. First things first I have an 04 Nissan Max 3.5 SE it has almost 146,000k on it. The car is beautiful, I just traded in an 04 Pontiac Sunfire towards it. And I'd like to think it was an upgrade, However I too am experiencing the transmission problems a lot of people seem to have with this particular year. It doesn't always happen but when it does it can be a very hard shift, also it has completely slipped while moving and just revved for a couple seconds before shifting into gear. I should mention it is automatic. So with that their are a few other things like my cd player being (what sounds to me) as being jammed with a cd stuck in it. Floaty steering (Which could potentially be an alignment issue) or I'm just not use to the way it handles moving from the Sunfire. And a few noises which worry me but could potentially be nothing (New brakes were put on when I bought it) Anyway I guess what I'm after is some advice towards the purchase (Like did I just **** away 6 grand on something that will cost me another 6, or more) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

FantaLady23

NismoMax80, unfortunately, I got the work done with the control arms before I saw this post. Total cost $500!!! The noise is gone tho.

$95 for each arm, $195/labor, & $115 for express shipping by post office.
I didn't see the invoice for the parts & the shipping box, so I don't know how much he hiked up the price for profit. I'm going to take my loss of $$, move on, and learn from this experience. But I am sooo mad over this. I would cuss, but I'm not...lol

I don't trust him anymore. So, I'm looking for a new mechanic. He can keep working on BMWs, Mercedes, & VWs and overprice them. Not me anymore!

smokin5s

I purchased a 2005 Maxima 3.5 SE last night. I have noticed a few issues on the drive home (that I didn't have on my test drive surprisingly enough)

- When all the windows are closed, there's a wind sound coming from the right side of the car... I know that the 5.5's had an issue and the fix was to pull the stripping down and add weather stripping under it, I didn't know if the 6 gen's have a similar problem or not.

- the driver window, when I do the auto up, it goes all the way up and then rolls back down.
**************
**Edit, I found a fix for this... I am pasting the fix in case anyone needs it...***

Step 1: Pry the plastic cap up off the bottom centre of the door pull handle and remove the single philips screw.

Step 2: Remove the whole switch panel (in which the door pull handle sits) by prying it up from the back end either with a flat edged screwdriver or table knife (under cloth) or by hand which is what I did. It is just clipped in so should come out relatively easily sliding it up at the back and then pulling it back.

You can now see the inside of the door from where the switch finishing plate sat. You can leave the wiring all attached and simply hang the switch and handle plastic assembly to one side so you can see the inside of the door.

Look inside towards the front bottom of the door behind the plastic vapour barrier you will see a small black switch. It almost looks like a black pan screw head. This is the reset switch but there is a sequence to now doing the actual reset procedure. The switch doesn't really feel like one when you press it through the plastic liner which incidentally you don't need to cut (at least I didn't have to). It is a switch that is only on when you are pressing it otherwise when released it is off.

STEP 3: Make sure the window is closed (up) completely. Turn the ignition on so the windows are receiving power.

a) Press the reset switch (and keep it pressed in) and open (down) the window completely (manually -NOT with AUTO ONE TOUCH DOWN FUNCTION).
b) Release the reset switch. Then close the window completely (manually only - NOT AUTO UP).
c) The limit switch is now reset. Easy!!!

***********
- This is a really weird one, there's a smell of transmission fluid coming from HVAC, when opening the hood, the smell isn't too bad, but I went to change the headlight bulbs and when I open the bulb enclosure the smell is STRONG... any idea what would cause that?

- the SES light came on, it's getting the code P0420

- I purchased a double din mounting kit for my aftermarket nav, is there a way to put the screen that has all the HVAC info into the double din kit and mout the aftermarket nav where the stock screen sits?

- the cigarette lighter plug in front of the shifter as well as in the center console does not work. I have checked the fuse labeled cigarette lighter and the fuse is ok. I replaced it for good measures and that did not help, the plug on the side of the console does work though.

- the vent in the back seat does not blow any air.. is there a setting that I need to change?

- the passenger side mirror is broken and needs replaced, when looking online, there are memory, heated, etc mirrors... how do I know what type of mirror I need?

Thanks!

ak06max

Kind of a dilemma and sorry for the novel. I have been through hell this past month. This car has ran great till now. The dreaded timing chain tensioners and guides were just done. Had the Chain work and the spark plugs done at the same time 1965 out the door from reliable auto in Illinois. Picked the car up on Tuesday this week. When I hopped in it for the 1st time I came to notice that the car wouldn't accelarate correctly it almost felt as I was dragging a boat behind me. Mechanic drove it around and it died on him was able to get it restarted cleaned the throttle body then found out his machine couldn't relearn the idle. Was able to make it to nissan the shop payed for it good to go! Well thats what I thought driving that night did the same a real loud bang when I shifted into reverse and the car would barely move turned it off then on drove ok made it home. Decided maybe just a brain fart from having the battery disconnected for so long nope. Took it out maybe 5 miles going up to 45-50 mph car dies TCS off slip and SES light come on. Had it towed back to the shop replaced the Crank Sensor that what the code shows. Took it 100 plus miles the past couple days no lights but crazy paranoia that there is something just not right. I still feel as if there is something up with my RPMs the tach is as if it is really flimsy hard to describe. During downshifting it feels as if something is pulling and during acceleration it feel as if the RPMs arent matching what the amount of gas I am putting into it and sometime feel the same little jerk that caused my car to die before . This shop had fantastic reviews all over but now its got me thinking did they really know what they are doing. Any help my brain is fried. Thanks all


Does anyone know a good Nissan Mechanic around the area that could make sure this was installed correctly? Minus Nissan they would charge a ton. Batavia Illinois